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fmJl©E HOTEL, SAM ra#TO23@@. 



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The PALACE HOTEL, occupying the entire block in the center of San Francisco, is the model Hotel of th e 
world. It has double the accommodations of any other hotel in the city. It is thoroughly fire and earthquake- 
proof, has broad, easy stairways, and five elevators. Every room is extra large, light and airy The system of 
ventilation is peri ect, combining flue from fireplace, inlet flue for fresh air from outside, and 'outlet flue to the 
roof. A bath and closet adjoin every room. All rooms are easy of access from broad, light corridors leadin" 
from the glass-covered court in the center of the building. The central court, illuminated by the electric light, 
its immense glass roof, broad balconies around it on every story, its carriage way and its tropical plants is an at- 
tractive feature, one hitherto unknown in American Hotels. Guests entertained on either the American or Euro- 
pean plan. The Restaurant is an adjunct to the Hotel, and is the finest in the city. Room with board S3 per day 
room with board, $4 per day; room without board, $1 per day and upwards. 

Lines of horse-cars, connecting directly with all principal streets, business centers, leading places of amuse- 
ment or resort, and all notable localities, constantly traversing the entire city, even to its remotest suburbs run 
within a minute s walk of the Palace. At the neighboring foot of the city's Grand Central Avenue, which 
passes directly under its northern front, are the stations and docks of the Great Overland Railway Terminus with 
the piers and slips of the principal steam ferries, which swiftly bridge the broad Bav in every habitable or pleasura- 
ble direction. A few blocks south he the immense docks and basins of the P. M. S. S. Co., with their grand 
fleet of Trans-Pacific Mail Steamships for the Sandwich Islands, China, Japan, Australia, India, and the nation* 
of the Orient. 

Ninety-six thousand two hundred and fifty square feet, or nearly two and a quarter acres, underlie the stupen- 
dous structure itself, while the sub-sidewalk extensions increase the basement area to upwards of three acres. Its 
general form is an immense, triplicate, hollow quadrangle, including one grand central crystal-roofed garden 
court, flanked by a lesser and parallel court on either side. Seven lofty stories surmount the deep and airy base- 
ment, and through a considerable portion it has eight. The lower story has a height of over twenty-seven feet ■ 
t ,n e 1 u P pei i most ' sixteen - Four artesian wells, having a tested capacity of 28.000 gallons an hour, supply the great 
630,000 gallon reservoir under the central court, besides filling seven roof tanks, holding 130.000 gallons more 
1 hree large steam fire-pumps force water through 45 3-inch wrought-iron upright fire mains, reaching above the 
roof, and distribute it through 327 2'^-inch hose bibs, and 15,00" feet of five-ply carbolized fire-hose, thus doubly 
and trebly commanding every inch of the vast structure from roof to basement, within and without. 

Five patent safety-catch hydraulic elevators, running noiselessly within fire-proof brick walls, ascend even to 
the roof promenades. Electric fire-alarms, self-acting, instantly report at the office the exact locality of any fire, 
or even of extraordinary heat in any parlor, bedroom, closet, hall, passage, stairway or storeroom. Special hotei 
watchmen regularly patrol all parts of the building every thirty minutes, day and night. A self-acting and self- 
registering tell-tale indicator instantly reports at the office any neglect or omission of their duty. Besides all 
these precautions, a fire-proof iron staircase inclosed in solid brick and stone, and opening through iron doors, 
upon every floor, ascends from basement to roof. Every floor has its exclusive annunciator and its own tubular 
conductors, carrying all letters for the post-office directly to the main letter-box in the general office. A pneu- 
matic dispatch tube instantly conveys letters, messages or parcels to and from any point of the different floors. 
The grand central court, 144 by 84 feet, has a carriage and promenade entrance through the east front on New 
Montgomery Street of 44 feet width, expanding into a circular driveway fifty-two feet in diameter, surrounded 
by a marble-tiled promenade and a tropical garden of rare exotics, with choice statuary and artistic fountains. 
Within this court, opposite the main entrance, is the music pavilion, in whioh the instrumental band, exclu- 
sively attached to the Palace, render choice selections at stated intervals during every afternoon and evening. 

Off the central court open the main entrance to the hotel office, 65 by 55: entrances to the breakfast-room, 
110 by 55; the grand dining-room, 150 by 55; the music and ball-room, 65 by 55; the ladies' lower reception 
parlor, 40 by 40; reading-room of the same size; billiard-rooms, 65 by 40; barber shop and bath-rooms, 40 by 
40; committee-rooms and other general apartments, devoted to the pleasure or convenience of guests and 
patrons. 

„„On the second floor are private dining-rooms, children's dining-hall, and the ladies' drawing-room. 84 bv 40 
THE TOTAL NUMBER OF ROOMS EXCLUSIVELY FOR GUESTS, ABOVE THE GARDEN FLOOR. IS 
(55, most of which are 20 feet square; none less than 16 by 16. They are equally well finished and furnished 
throughout. 

Within and without, in all approaches, appointments and belongings, the kingly structure, far surpassing, 
not only in size but in grandeur, all the hotels of Europe and America, richly justifies the propriety of its 
happily chosen name— THE PALACE HOTEL. 

A. D. SHARON, Lessee. 



THE BALDWIN. 




THE BALDWIN 



THE LEADING HOTEL OF SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA. 



This Hotel was completed and opened in May, 1877, and is conducted on the 
American plan. 

Over $3,500,000 having been expended by Mr. Baldwin in its construction and fur- 
nishing, THE BALDWIN is the most elegantly appointed Hotel in the world. 

Situated on Market street, at the intersection of Powell and Eddy Streets, and 
fronting on four principal streets in the business center, it is convenient of access to 
and from all quarters of the city. Eight lines of Street Cars pass its doors. 

Hotel Coaches and Carriages in waiting at all Steamers and Bailway Depots. 

TOURISTS' HEADQUARTERS. Special accommodations for families and large 
parties. 

PRICES the same as at other first-class hotels— $2.50 TO $5 PER DAY. 
H. H. PEARSON, - Proprietor. 

Formerly proprietor of the Cosmopolitan, San Francisco. 
BRUSH HARDENBERGH, Chief Clerk. M. A. FRENCH, Cashier. 



Examples of Hundreds of Testimonials. 



NO. 3. 

Satisfactory Evidence. 

J. W. Graham, Wholesale Druggist, of Austin, Tex., 
writes.— I have been handling DR. WM. HALL'S BALSAM 
FOR THE LUNGS for the past year, and have found it one 
of the most saleable medicines I have ever had in my house 
for Coughs, Colds, and even Consumption, always giving en- 
tire satisfaction. Please send me another gross. 

NO. 5. 

Rescued from Death. 

William J. Coughlin, of Somerville, Mass, says: — In the 
fall of 1876 I was taken with bleeding of lungs followed by 
a severe cough. I lost my appetite and flesh, and was con- 
fined to my bed. In 1877 I was admitted to the Hospital. 
The doctor said I had a hole in my lung as big as a half 
dollar. At one time a report went around that I was dead. 
I gave up all hope, but a friend told me of DR. WILLIAM 
HALL'S BALSAM FOR THE LUNGS. I got a bottle, 
when, to my surprise, I commenced to feel better, and to- 
day I feel better than for three years past. 

NO. 36. 

Henry's Carbolic Salve. 

The best salve used in the world for Cuts, Bruises, Piles, 
Sores, Ulcers, Salt Rheum, Tetter, Chapped Hands, Chill- 
blains, Corns, and all kinds of Skin Eruptions, Freckles and 
Pimples. The salve is guaranteed to give perfect satisfac- 
tion in every case. Be sure you get HENRY'S CARBOLIC 
SALVE, as all others are but imitations and counterfeits. 

NO. 51. 

Why Will You Die ? 

SCOVILL'S SARSAPARILLA, OR BLOOD AND 
LIVER SYRUP, for the cure of Scrofulous Taint, Rheuma- 
tism, White Swelling, Gout, Goitre, Consumption, Bron- 
chitis, Nervous Debility, Malaria, and all diseases arising 
from an impure condition of the blood. Certificates can be 
presented from many leading physicians, ministers, and 
heads of families throughout the land, endorsing SCOVILL'S 
BLOOD AND LIVER SYRUP. We are constantly in re- 
ceipt of certificates of cures from the most reliable sources, 
and we recommend it as the best known remedy for the cure 
of the above diseases. 



YOSEMITE, "1884." 

Great Reduction in Time! Only Four Days for Round Trip! 




Health Seekers', Tourists' and Sportsmen's 



GUIDE 



SEA-SIDE, 

LAKE-SIDE, 

FOOTHILL, 

MOUNTAIN AND 

MINERAL SPRING 

Health and Pleasure Resorts 



PACIFIC COAST, 

Newton H. Chittenden 
* • 

(Second Edition.) 




SAN FRANCISCO: 
Q. A. Murdock 6c Co., Printers, 



V- £51 



PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION, 



Santa Baebaea, Cal., April, 1881. 

There is probably no portion of the world which possesses greater natural 
advantages for health and pleasure seekers than the United States. 

Its vast territorial extent, embraces a combination of mountains and 
plains, rivers and valleys, forests, lakes and sea coast, on a scale of unpar" 
alleled grandeur and interest, affording unlimited range in the choice of situa- 
tions as to climatic, scenic and social requirements. 

The order of nature is opposed to monopoly, and distributes its gifts more 
evenly than appears at first view. 

The characteristic features of the topography, climate and resources of 
the Atlantic and Pacific Slopes, and the great elevated region intervening, are 
so marked that each division of country becomes the sole possessor of certain 
great advantages, which cannot be destroyed, removed or counterfeited. 

There is no place on either the Atlantic or Pacific Coasts which can 
match the scenery or climate of the interior mountains and plains; no spot 
in all that immense region which can satisfy a demand for sea air, sea food 
and ocean breezes ; no climate from Maine to the Gulf of Mexico comparable 
with that of the Southern Pacific Coast; and no place from Alaska to Mexico 
which equals in all respects the great popular watering places of the East . 
This great diversity, and wise distribution of natural advantages, removes all 
cause for unfair rivalry, and should lead to the utmost liberality between sec- 
tions and individuals specially interested in attracting and providing for the 
health and pleasure seeking public. ^In proportion as we increase in popula- 
tion, wealth and general information, and possess the means for rapid and 
easy transit, the people will more and more bestow their patronage where 
most deserved and best adapted to their special wants. Hitherto Americans 
have gone much abroad for recreation and health, but it has been mainly due 
to the undeveloped condition of our own country. The most frequented 
watering places in America have been known to the general public but a few 
years. Six years ago the writer was accustomed to gallop up and down the 
beach of Coney Island without meeting an obstruction, save an occasional 
fisherman's cabin, where now miles of hotels and caravansaries, unsurpassed 
in magnitude and excellence of accommodation and management, entertain 
tens and sometimes hundreds of thousands of people daily during the heated 
term. Last season, while camping at Ocean Grove, New Jersey — one of a 
succession of seaside resorts extending from Sandy Hook southward along the 
coast for over twenty miles, including Long Branch, Asbury Park and Ocean 
Beach — we were informed by one of the original owners of that portion of the 
shore that the whole of that almost unbroken line of magnificent hotels and 
summer residences, now thronged with multitudes of visitors and sojourners 



from June to September, was all the creation of less than ten years. Still 
more recently have the great natural pleasure resorts and sanitariums of the 
interior of the continent and the Pacific Slope become practically accessible. 
Now that the facilities for transcontinental travel are so complete, a consider- 
able and constantly increasing number of people from the Atlantic States will 
seek, especially during the winter season, the mild and healthful resorts of 
the Pacific Coast. 

Health and pleasure seeking constantly involves the question of adapta- 
tion. No two persons were ever created alike in their mental and physical 
natures, and their requirements in a state of health or disease. All experience 
is so personal, that what we find to be good for us, affords a most unreliable 
guide in determining the needs of others. It is, therefore, a responsibility 
which no one should assume, without the most thorough knowledge of the 
subject, to give specific advice respecting those situations which will best 
promote the health or happiness of any one. Our present purpose is simply 
to furnish such descriptions of the most favorably known watering places and 
health resorts of this coast as will enable the interested reader to form a cor- 
rect estimate of the special advantages which they afford. N. H. C. 



PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 



San Francisco, Oal., November, 1883. 

Since the publication of the First Edition, I have visited most of the 
health and pleasure resorts of the Pacific Coast from Mexico to Alaska. 

In the meantime, the completion of two new transcontinental railways 
renders them accessible to both tourist and invalid. 

Beginning at San Diego, I have followed the natural order of description, 
presenting the various places and objects of interest as reached in traveling 
northward. 

I am under special obligations to Major Ben. C. Truman, the well-known 
brilliant author of "Semi-Tropical California," "Occidental Sketches," 
"The South after the War," "Campaigning in Tennessee," "Tourists' 
Guides, " etc., etc., for valuable information and cuts for this work. 



CONTENTS. 



CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST— Pages 9 to 20. 

SEA-SIDE SUMMEE AND WINTER EESOETS — San Diego, Page 25 ; 
National City, 28 ; Willmore City, 43 ; Santa Monica, 40 ; Ventura, 
57 ; Santa Baebaea, 71 ; Monteeey, 110 ; Hotel del Monte, 112 ; Pa- 
cific Geove Eeteeat, 117 ; Santa Ceuz, 118 ; Camp Capitola, 180 ; 
Pescadero, 180 : Oakland, 23. 

SEA-SIDE SUMMEE EESOETS (North Coast.)— Yaquina Bay, Oeegon, 
Page 238 ; Tillamook Bay, Oeegon, 237 ; Ilwaco, 262 ; Sea-View, 263 ; 
Shoalwatee Bay, 266 ; Gray's Haeboe, 269 ; Puget Sound, 285 ; 
Seattle, 286 ; New Tacoma, 287 ; Olympia, W. T., 289 ; Victoeia, 
B. C, 296. 

MINEEAL SPEING EESOETS— Tia Juaija, Mexico, Page 30 ; Aeeowhead, 
34 ; Fulton Sulphue W,ells, 41 : Matilija, 61 ; Santa Baebaea, 70 ; 
Mountain Glen, 79 ; Las Cruces, 93 ; Paso de Eobles, 105 ; Paeaiso, 
170 ; Gileoy, 174 ; Napa, 175 ; White Sulphue, 177 ; JEtna, 177 ; 
CaltoToga, 178 ; Congeess, 180 ; Wilbue, 190 ; Hough, 192 ; Allen, 
193 ; Baetlett, 193 ; Wittee, 195 ; Peaeson, .196 ; Highland, 198 ; 
Seiglee, 200 ; Howaed, 200 ; Bonanza, 201 ; Adams, 202 ; Harbin, 203; 
Andeeson, 204 ; Mills, 205 ; Skaggs, 207 ; Litton, 208 ; Mark West, 
210 ; Byron, 210 ; Uppee Soda, 213 ; Payton, Oeegon, 218 ; Sodaville, 
219 ; Aueoea, 219 ; Wilhoit, 220. 

INTEEIOE SUMMEE AND WINTEE EESOETS (See Mineral Springs.) 
— Yuma, Page 164 ; Eiveeside, 34 ; San Beenaedino, 34 ; San Gabriel> 
37 ; Sieeea Madee Villa, 38 : Passadena, 39 : Ojai Valley, 60. 

MOUNTAIN AND LAKE SUMMEE EESOETS,— Yosemite, Page 124 ; Big 
Teees, Maeiposa, 137 ; Calaveeas, 138 ; Santa Ceuz, 180 ; Wash- 
buen's Wawona Hotel, 120 ; Lake Tahoe, 142 ; Donnee Lake, 142 ; 
Independence Lake, 163 ; Webbee Lake, 161 ; Blue Lakes, 197 ; 
Geysers, 206 ; Sisson's, 213. 

EXCUESIONS from San Diego, Pages 30 to 33 ; Los Angeles, 40 to 43 ; 
Santa Baebaea, 77 to 103; San Francisco, 124 to 188; Portland, 
224 to 295 ; Victoria, B. C, 298 to 311. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 

1. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO 20 

2. VIEW OF SAN DIEGO 24 

3. VIEW OF ARROWHEAD SPRINGS 35 

4. ROSE'S ORANGE GROVE SAN GABRIEL 37 

.5. SIERRA MADRE VILLA 38 

6. SANTA MONICA HOTEL AND FULTON SULPHUR WELLS 40 

7. HOME IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 49 

8. A HOME IN SANTA BARBARA COUNTY 66 

9. BIG GRAPE VINE, MONTECITO 69 

30. SANTA BARBARA MISSION 72 

11. " THE ARLINGTON," OF SANTA BARBARA 73 

12. A SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA APIARY 81 

13. COLONEL HOLLISTER 87 

14. THE HOME OF THE ORANGE, OLIVE AND APRICOT 90 

15. MAP OF MONTEREY 109 

10. MISSION SAN CARLOS Ill 

17. THE HOTEL DEL MONTE 113 

18. GROUNDS OF HOTEL DEL MONTE 115 

19. PACIFIC GROVE RETREAT 117 

20. NATURAL BRIDGE NEAR SANTA CRUZ 120 

21. GENERAL VIEW OF THE YOSEMITE 124 

22. BARNARD'S YOSEMITE FALLS HOTEL 132 

23. MIRROR LAKE 133 

24. LIBERTY CAP 134 

25. VERNAL FALLS LADDERS 135 

26. T BE GREAT WAWONA 139 

27. CUNNINGHAM'S CABIN, MARIPOSA GROVE.. 140 

28. BIG TREES 141 

29. THE GREAT C. P. R. R. TRANSFER BOAT SOLANO 142 

30. SUMMER SCENE IN THE SIERRAS U4 

31. TRUCKEE HOTEL 140 

32. TAHOE CITY 148 

33. LAKE TAHOE 149 

34. LOAD OF LOGS 151 

35. EMERALD LAKE 152 

36. TAHOE HOT SPRINGS 154 

37. DONNER LAKE 162 

38. S. P. R. R. HOTEL, YUMA 105 

39. MAP S. P. R. R., NORTHERN DIVISION 171 

40. PARAISO HOT MINERAL SPRINGS 172 

41. NAPA PAGODA SPRING 170 

42. HARBOR VIEW PARK 182 

43. WOODWARD'S GARDENS ...186 

44. ASTORIA 228 

45. SALMON FISHING 233 

46. SALMON FISHING 235 

47. SEATTLE 286 

48. VICTORIA 296 

49. GOVERNMENT HOUSE, B. C 298 

50. ESQUIMAULT, B. C 300 



fS 




EL CAPITAN— 3300 FEET HIGH. 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 18S3, 

By NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



T^e (Sliniate of tlje Pacific Coast. 



The Pacific Coast region, lying within the boundaries of 
the United States, extends over 1200 miles by the shore 
line, from north to south, and from 200 to 350 miles inland 
to the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Eanges of Mountains. 
This great scope of country embraces the grandest moun- 
tains and rivers, and most extensive forests, plains, and val- 
leys, on the continent, and is one of the most interesting- 
portions of the world. In sublime and beautiful scenery, 
variety and excellence of climate, and productions, it has no 
parallel. It affords an inexhaustible field for interesting and 
profitable travel and research, and abounds in localities 
possessing in the highest degree those natural advantages 
most conducive to the health and enjoyment of the visitor. 
Ranging through 20 degrees of latitude, and from the sea level 
to heights of 15,000 feet; with hundreds of mountains, 
thousands of valleys, dense coast forests bathing in six feet of 
rain, thirsty interior desert wastes receiving only four inches, 
summits upon which winter reigns, overlooking valleys 
smiling in perpetual sunshine and summer, where snow and 
ice never come, the orange ripens and the tenderest flowers 
bloom in January, there is no situation or atmospheric con- 
dition, which varying altitudes, degrees of humidity, heat 
and cold and exposure can produce, that it does not contain. 
Though the characteristic features of the immediate coast 
climate, and that of the country lying between the Coast 
Range and the Sierra Nevada Mountains, warrants the usual, 
general description, that the former is even, cool and moist, 
and the latter variable, hot and dry, it conveys a very inade- 
quate idea of the local peculiarities of climate, occasioned 
by the modifying influences of ocean winds and currents, 
elevation, and the character and extent of protection and 
exposure. 



10 THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Neither do the rules of climatology, based upon observa- 
tions in other parts of the world, apply to this coast. Ac- 
cording to these calculations, the mean annual temperature 
diminishes in going northward at the rate of one degree for 
every degree of latitude. This would show a variation of 
about 17 degrees between the temperature of San Diego, 
California, and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, in Washington 
Territory. The mean annual temperature at Fort Steila- 
coom, Washington Territory, is 51 degrees; at Portland, 
Oregon, 53 degrees, and at San Francisco, 56 degrees, show- 
ing a difference of only 5 degrees along a coast line extending 
more than 800 miles. This uniformity of temperature is due 
to the ocean current from the north, and the north winds 
which prevail from April to October. From San Francisco 
southward to San Diego, a distance of 480 miles, the coast 
bears eastward more than 250 miles, removing it sufficiently 
from the ocean current and winds which cool the upper 
coast, to produce a marked change in its climate. The mean 
temperature at Monterey rises to 57°, at Santa Barbara to 60°, 
at Santa Monica to 61°, and San Diego to 62°. This portion 
of the coast, known as Southern California, possesses the 
most equable and delightful climate in the world. The 
mean difference in temperature between January and July is 
only 8 degrees at San Diego, 12 degrees at Los Angeles, 7 
degrees at Santa Monica, 10 degrees at Santa Barbara, 6 de- 
grees at Monterey, and 8 degrees at San Francisco. As we 
recede from the coast, and the influence of the ocean currents 
and winds, the climate is mainly governed by elevation and 
exposure, and varies, in a marked degree, according to the 
configuration of the country. The summers are considera- 
bly hotter in the interior valleys than on the coast, and the 
winters colder in proportion, as we ascend the mountains. 

Going northward from San Diego, through the interior 
valleys of the Bear, Poway, San Jacinto, San Bernardino, 
San Joaquin and Sacramento, for a distance of over 500 
miles, the temperature averages about 55 degrees in winter, 
and 70 degrees in summer, ranging from the extremes of 120 
degrees to 29 degrees. The valleys surrounding the bay of 
San Francisco are under the joint influence of the ocean 



THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. H 

winds, which daily sweep inland through the Golden Gate, 
and of the interior climate. Here may be found the most 
agreeable and salubrious atmospheric conditions. Passing 
into Oregon, the Cascade range of mountains creates a third 
marked climatic division, which extends to Puget Sound. 
The average temperature in Western Oregon is 52 degrees 
in Spring, 67 degrees in Summer, 53 degrees in Autumn, 
and 39 degrees in Winter, with extremes from 95 degrees to 
25 degrees. In Eastern Oregon, it averages 53 degrees in 
Spring, 70 degrees in Summer, 52 degrees in Autumn, and 
35 degrees in Winter, ranging from 103 to 14 degrees. The 
rainy season throughout this whole coast region begins late 
in October, or early in November, and continues with more 
or less of showery weather, according to locality, until the 
ensuing May. Then, from May to October, the dry season 
has full sway, a shower during that period, especially south 
of San Francisco, being an unusual occurrence. So far as 
the amount of rainfall is concerned, throughout Southern 
California, the rainy season simply signifies that during that 
period exclusively, not exceeding 18 inches may fall. 

The average annual rainfall at San Diego is only 10. 43 
inches. Following up the coast to San Francisco, it in- 
creases at the rate of about 2 inches for every 100 miles. Santa 
Monica receives about 13 inches, Santa Barbara 15 inches, 
Monterey 17 inches, and San Francisco 21 inches. The 
Coast Range of mountains, rising to an elevation of from 
2000 to 4000 feet, robs the ocean rain-freighted clouds of 
all their precious burden before reaching the interior plains 
and valleys. At Fort Yuma, on the Colorado river and 
desert, the mean annual rainfall is only 2.54 inches. Among 
the little valleys extending from San Diego to the San Ja- 
cinto mountains, from 7 to 9 inches; in the valley of San 
Bernardino, and at Colton, Riverside and Cocomungo, 10 
inches; advancing toward the coast, Spadra and El Monte 
receive about 11 inches, and Los Angeles, situated 20 miles 
from the ocean, about 14 inches. Crossing the San Bernar- 
dino mountains to the Mojave plains, the yearly rainfall is 
only from 3 to 4 inches, and from thence up the San Joaquin 
Valley as far as Goshen, in latitude 36 degrees, ranges from 



12 THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 

3 to 6 inches; from thence northward it increases to 15.10 
inches at Stockton, 18.23 inches at Sacramento. Along the 
upper Sacramento Eiver and its tributaries in Yuba, Placer 
and Nevada counties, it sometimes reaches the maximum of 
125 inches, as during the winter of 1881, causing the most 
disastrous floods. Returning toward the coast, the counties 
surrounding the bay of San Francisco receive from 15 to 25 
inches, and those on the north the greatest amount. Now, 
proceeding northward again into Western Oregon, we find 
an average of 45 inches; crossing the Cascade Range into 
Eastern Oregon, it falls to 15 inches; back to Astoria, near 
the mouth of the Columbia River, it rises to 70 inches; and 
over on the great Columbia plains, in Eastern Washington 
Territory, the annual rainfall is about 15 inches, and from 
thence westward, along the shores of Paget Sound and into 
the heart of the great forests of Western Washington, we 
find from 60 to 70 inches. The snowfall is confined almost 
exclusively to the country lying east of the Cascade Range 
in Washington and Oregon, and to eastern and northeastern 
California, high up on the western slope of the Sierras. 
Here it is usually light, except on the elevated valleys and 
mountain summits, where it falls to a great depth. In ordi- 
nary seasons stock ranges at large throughout the winter 
without shelter, subsisting entirely upon the native grasses. 
In Western Washington the snowfall rarely exceeds a few 
inches at one time, except on the mountain tops, and sel- 
dom remains long enough for sleighing. Western Oregon 
has on an average about ten snowy days during the winter. 
Snow very rarely falls in large quantities or remains long on 
the ground. A small portion of northwestern California, 
especially in Siskiyou County, is within the snow range. 
Mount Shasta, 13,000 feet above the sea level, is always 
snow-capped. Sometimes it whitens the foothills and ele- 
vated valleys further south, and once during the winter of 
1856, and again in 1882, covered the hills about San Fran- 
cisco until near mid-day. But from thence southward to San 
Diego no snow is ever seen, except on the summits of the 
mountains, and sometimes for a few hours among the upper 
foothills. 



THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 13 

Frosts prevail over this whole coast region during the 
winter months, and in Oregon and Washington Territory are 
not uncommon in midsummer. In Southern California they 
are seldom so severe as to inflict much injury upon the grow- 
ing crops or fruits. Many sheltered localities are altogether 
exempt, except at long intervals. A strong northwest trade 
wind prevails, especially during the months of July and 
August, along the coast from Point Concepcion, in latitude 
34° north, to Washington Territory. It comes heavily laden 
with fog, which thickly envelopes the immediate shore until 
about ten o'clock in the morning. The elevated plains and 
valleys east of the Cascade Range are exposed, especially in 
summer, to high winds from the southwest. What are 
known as "Chenook" winds occasionally sweep with great 
force from the southwest, in winter, up the channel of the 
Columbia River, and over the great plains of the upper 
basin. It is a warm current which melts in a few hours all 
the snow in its course. The prevailing winds on the south- 
ern coast are west and northwesterly from March to Septem- 
ber, and southeasterly during the remainder of the year. 
It is sometimes visited by hot, drying, north and east winds 
from the great interior plains and deserts. About half a 
dozen "northers" may be expected during the year, con- 
tinuing from one to three days. They seldom attain the 
velocity of a gale, but are the most disagreeable feature of 
the climate. 

A division of the Pacific Coast region, according to 
prominent climatic characteristics would therefore be about 
as follows : Commencing on the north, the first division 
would embrace all that portion lying between the Pacific 
Ocean and the Cascade and Coast ranges of mountains and 
latitudes 37|° and 38°. It possesses a comparatively mild 
climate, not unlike that of England, moist, cool and crisp, 
and somewhat harsh upon the immediate coast. Fires are 
comfortable throughout the year, and the same clothing- 
worn in January is not uncomfortable in June. During the 
six months rainy season, north of latitude 40°, while the 
probabilities are in favor of rain during every twenty-four 
hours, intervals of bright sunny weather are not uncom- 



14 THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST.. 

mon. The heat of summer is rarely oppressive, and the 
nights are always cool and refreshing. The abundant 
rains and moderate fall of winter temperature, and the 
uniformly rich soils are exceedingly favorable to a luxuriant 
growth of all kinds of grasses and hardy fruits, plants and 
vegetables. Volunteer crops of cereals, sometimes equal- 
ing in yield the first harvest, are common. The average 
summer temperature is too low for Indian corn, tomatoes, 
or semi-tropic fruits. The climate is salubrious for vigor- 
ous constitutions, and free from malaria, except along the 
river bottoms. 

A second division includes the remainder of the coast, 
from latitude 37J° southward, lying within the United 
States. Mildness, equability, sunshine and salubrity are 
its marked peculiarities. Its severest storms, except an 
occasional norther, are comparatively mild. Winter is the 
season of greatest activity, growth and enjoymeut. The 
tenderest flowers blossom the year round. In my own 
garden three-year-old tomato vines have been covered with 
fruit and blossoms all winter, and Indian corn has been 
growing. The summers are hot and dry, but not oppress- 
ive. The orange, fig and other semi-tropic fruits find here a 
congenial atmosphere. Soon after the winter rains all veg- 
etation springs into life, and in April the country is a 
garden of luxuriant growth. In June the hills begin to 
turn brown, the early harvest commences, and until Novem- 
ber following, the general aspect of the country is barren and 
uninviting. 

A third climatic division embraces all that great interior 
lying midway between the Cascade and Coast Kanges of 
mountains, extending from the plains of the Columbia, in 
Eastern Washington, south through Eastern Oregon, and 
down the great valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, 
to San Diego, California. Removed, in a great measure, 
beyond the cooling and equalizing influence of the ocean 
winds, dryness throughout the year, and the extreme heat of 
the mid-day sun, are its marked peculiarities. Its special 
adaptations are to wheat and stock raising in the northern 
portions, wheat, fruit, and stock raising in the central, and 



THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 15 

wheat, barley, Indian corn, semi-tropic fruits and stock rais- 
ing in the southern. 

The foothills, valleys, and elevated table lands lying 
within the snow limits along the western slope of the Sierras, 
constitute a fourth climatic division. Its distinctive features 
are a much lower winter temperature, snow storms of greater 
or less severity, according to altitude, and a greater rainfall. 
Farming, fruit growing, stock raising, mining and lumbering 
are the chief pursuits of this region. 

Heavy gales are not uncommon in winter along the upper 
coast; tornadoes are rare visitations; electric storms are al- 
most unknown south of latitude 34°, and north of that do not 
occur on an average oftener than twice a year. Water-spouts 
sometimes burst in the mountain canons and overwhelm the 
unfortunate camper, but this is a very exceptional phenome- 
non. Slight shocks of earthquake are felt somewhere on the 
coast almost every year, but they are usually quite harmless. 
Cool, refreshing nights are a pleasant feature of this whole 
coast climate, except a comparatively small portion in the 
Colorado desert. During a residence of several years, I 
have seen but very few mosquitoes, except in the immediate 
vicinity of "permanently wet and marshy places. House flies 
are not more numerous than in other sections of the United 
States. Fleas are native to the country, and troublesome if 
neglected, but, with care and neatness, occasion little annoy- 
ance. The poisonous tarantula and centipede may be found 
upon search, but are seldom thought of after a short resi- 
dence. I have seen but few rattlesnakes, during quite ex- 
tensive travels, on foot as well as on horseback, through 
wild, unfrequented portions of the country. 

There has been, heretofore, so much poetic extravagance 
indulged in, both in praise and detraction of the climate and 
resources of Southern California, that the Eastern public 
has been puzzled to form any satisfactory opinion upon the 
subject. In descriptive writing, there is considerable temp- 
tation for those ambitious for a literary reputation, or more 
careful to please and secure personal ends than to present the 
truth — to "write up" beyond the merits of their subject. 
It is far better, in every way, to point out the drawbacks of 



16 THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 

a locality, than to conceal them from the public, to surely 
reach it in an exaggerated form, through the complaints of 
the disappointed. It is not a question of the perfection of 
climate anywhere, but the greatest aggregate of climatic and 
other advantages, with the fewest disadvantages for the 
largest number. The prosperity of the country and the 
people attracted hither are so intimately associated, that 
both alike demand that all questions pertaining to its advan- 
tages and disadvantages as a sanitarium should be treated 
with perfect frankness. Opinions are valuable, in proportion 
to the experience, candor and judgment of their authors. 
When, emanating from respectable sources, they uniformly 
agree upon any matter, to that extent they are entitled to 
much consideration. I have taken considerable pains to 
consult the best authorities upon the adaptation of the 
climate of Southern California for the cure of consumptives. 
They are unanimous in the opinion that it is unsurpassed in the 
world for the healing of diseased lungs. My own experience 
in all the climates of this country, except the Polar, and ob- 
servations derived from a personal acquaintance with a large 
number "of consumptives, agrees with the general verdict. 

While living in New York, before the publication of this 
work was thought of, I wrote as follows : 

"Invalids seeking situations possessing the most beneficial 
climatic conditions for them, are beset with even greater 
difficulties than those which perplex the average home- 
seeker. Those difficulties are increased in proportion to 
the inability of the sufferer, from lack of sufficient strength 
or means to make experiments, involving much travel and 
expense, or the necessity of selecting a location affording 
opportunities for earning a livelihood. » Florida, Minnesota, 
Colorado, and California each have their interested advo- 
cates, asserting, with equal positiveness, the superior healing- 
qualities of their respective climates, especially for all dis- 
eases of the lungs and respiratory organs. Such is human 
nature, that you may generally anticipate the advice you 
will receive, by consulting residents of localities supposed 
to possess the sanitary advantages which you desiie. Ke- n 
suits, rather than theories and opinions, are the only safe/ 



THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 17 

guides in ascertaining the comparative advantages of sani- 
tariums, and such results must be obtained from entirely 
disinterested sources. 

A dry, equable climate, cool rather than hot, having the 
least daily, as well as annual, range of temperature, the most 
sunshine, the greatest exemption from storms, and as tonic 
as the patient will bear, affords the most favorable climatic 
conditions for all throat, bronchial, and lung diseases. The 
consumptive's greatest hope of recovery lies in taking all the 
out-door exercise possible without injury, in the sunshine, ina 
dry, pure, stimulating atmosphere. The climate of Florida, 
at certain seasons and places, affords relief to many consump- 
tives; but, during a considerable portion of the year, it is so 
hot, humid, and enervating, that, instead of exerting any heal- 
ing, strengthening influence upon diseased lungs, it proves in- 
jurious to them. Its nearness to the East gives it advantages 
as a temporary resort for all classes of its invalids who desire 
to escape the inclemency of Northern winters, but its oppor- 
tunities for profitable business are too limited to invite the 
permanent settlement of those who find its climate beneficial. 
The dry, pure, stimulating air of Minnesota is very favorable 
for consumptives from May until November, especially in 
the eastern and timber-sheltered portions, but they should 
avoid its long, severe, stormy winters, except in cases where 
the disease is in its incipient stages, and the vitality of the 
person affected exceptionally good. Colorado possesses a 
still dryer climate than Minnesota, and by reason of its 
greater altitude, is more beneficial for asthmatics. It also 
contains many localities where consumptives may be ben- 
efited by a permanent residence. Portions of Arizona, New 
Mexico and Utah are well adapted, so far as climate is con- 
cerned, for the permanent settlement of all sufferers from 
bronchial and lung diseases. But Southern California prob- 
ably affords the most perfect conditions of climate, combined 
with other advantages, for a home for consumptives, of any 
portion of North America. These are a dry,, pure, equable, 
stimulating atmosphere, the most sunshine, the greatest 
choice of situations, as to elevation, humidity and exposure, 
in conjunction with superior advantages for engaging in light, 
pleasant and profitable occupations." 



18 THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 

So, while the climate of other portions of the United 
States, at certain seasons, may possess, to an equal degree, 
the healing influence of the air and sunshine of this Southern 
coast, either the heat of summer, or the cold of winter, ren- 
der them unfit for the permanent residence of the consump- 
tive. There are only a few days during the year in Southern 
California when the most delicate person need keep in doors 
on account of the weather. 

This is a happy land for children and all young animals. 
They are uniformly large, active, and healthy. They live in 
the pure air and sunshine, their great necessity and delight. 
During the past winter I have traveled upwards of a thousand 
miles in an open wagon, or on horseback, through Santa 
Barbara, Ventura, Los Angeles and San Diego counties, 
sleeping in the open air, under a slight shelter tent, with the 
greatest comfort, with only one day's detention on account of 
rain or storms. I have camped out, more or less, for over 
twenty years, and five years continuously during the war, and 
in many climates, including those of Texas, Florida, Colo- 
rado and Minnesota, but have found none so favorable to 
tent life, at all seasons, as Southern California. And yet it 
is far from perfection at all times and places. A visitor ar- 
riving for the first time, in a hot and dusty town of the inte- 
rior, in midsummer, and looking over the parched plains and 
foothills destitute of a single green thing, and returning, with- 
out going further, or remaining longer, sees the worst and is 
greatly disappointed. Should he arrive in winter, when 
something green and blossoming and beautiful greets the 
eye everywhere, he sees it in its best robes, and is car- 
ried away with enthusiasm. California may be compared to 
a rich eccentric genius, a many sided character abounding in 
excellent qualities and not without bad ones, who can only 
be judged after a long acquaintance. We are generally 
pretty severe critics when we go abroad for health or recrea- 
tion. We may leave the worst climate in the world, and, if 
we don't find a perfect one, are apt to complain. Those vis- 
iting the watering places and health resorts of this coast? 
who have frequented the great popular watering places of 
the Atlantic seaboard, must not expect to find, in this com- 



THE CLIMATE OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 19 

paratively new country, outside of the principal cities, the 
same extent and excellence of accommodation and service, 
in all respects, which they have been accustomed to receive 
there. 

San Francisco, the Pacific Coast terminus of both trans- 
continental railways, is naturally the objective point of a 
large portion of travel to this coast. Its inhabitants do not 
boast of their climate, which, though equable, is too harsh 
for feeble constitutions; but they are reasonably proud of 
their hotels, which are among the most magnificent in the 
world. I know of no city in this couutry where the hotel 
aud restaurant fare is so. uniformly excellent in quality and 
reasonable in price. At the Palace, Baldwin, Buss House, 
Lick House, Occidental and many other hotels, the most 
particular guest will find every reasonable want satisfied. So 
the Pacific Ocean House of Santa Cruz, Hotel Del Monte 
of Monterey, the Arlington of Santa Barbara, the Sierra 
Madre Villa of San Gabriel, and the Horton House of San 
Diego, are all large, first-class hotel establishments. 

Each of the watering places and health resorts hereafter 
mentioned possesses some advantages as such, peculiarly 
and exclusively its own, specially recommending it to the 
patronage of certain classes of health and pleasure-seekers; 
and for those tourists and invalids who, for any reason, de- 
sire to avoid them all and "rough it" in their own way, 
choosing their own companions and outfit, camping at the 
seaside, among the foothills, or in the mountain fastnesses, 
as health or inclination leads them, there is no more favora- 
ble climate or interesting field of travel under the sun. The 
grandeur and beauty of its scenery, the brightness of its 
skies, mildness, equability and salubrity of its climate, and 
the excellence and variety of its productions-have never been 
exaggerated. 



CALIFORNIA, 



California probably possesses a greater aggregate of 
natural and valuable resources than any other equal area of 
the American Continent. A pastoral paradise, gold fields 
among the richest in the world, the husbandman most lib- 
erally rewarded, field, orchard and vineyard yielding boun- 
tiful harvests of superior excellence of nearly every product 
of the soil, scenery of matchless grandeur and beauty, 
rounding up the measure of its blessings with one of the 
most genial and salubrious climates in the world. Descending 
the Pacific slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains by the C. 
P. R. R., the pioneer transcontinental railway, in December, 
1873, direct from snow and ice-bound Minnesota, I was first 
ushered into this glorious country. Green fields, blooming- 
orchards and gardens, sunshine and beauty gladdened my 
feasting eyes all the way to 

SAN FRANCISCO, the metropolis of the Pacific Coast. 
A wonderful city is San Francisco, remarkable for its rapid 
growth, the enterprise and wealth of its citizens, palace 
hotels and palace residences, luxurious and fast living, 
and surrounding places and objects of great interest . 

Founded in 1850, upon gold, centrally situated on the best 
harbor of the coast, commanding the principal trade of this 
region, keeping pace with the development of succeeding in- 
dustries, her population in 1883 numbers about 280,000, worth 
$250,000,000, owning 30,000 buildings. Palatial mansions 
crown the once unsightly sand hills; her hotels are the 
most magnificent in the world; her public schools cost- 
ing $1,000,000, a hundred churches, and numerous libra- 
ries, museums, theaters and parks, liberally provide for the 
instruction and amusement of the people. Daily swept by 
the ocean breezes, the climate of San Francisco, though 
equable, is somewhat harsh, but stimulating and healthy. 




BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO. 



SAN FBANCI8C0. 



21 




22 



CALIFORNIA. 



Woolen clothing is comfortable most of the year. Within 
and near the city, the Palace Hotel, The Baldwin, Wood- 
ward's Gardens, Presidio, the Chinese Quarter, Cable Eoads, 
Golden Gate Park, and Cliff House, are objects and places 



of great interest. 




San Francisco contains some of the most magnificent 
blocks and largest business houses in this country. The 
Safe Deposit and Trust Company's building is probably the 
most perfect in the world for the purpose designed. The 
great book, stationery, publishing and manufacturing estab- 
lishment of A. L. Bancroft & Co. is one of the most com- 
plete in the United States. The cable roads are the wonder 
of all visitors. 



OAKLAND AS A SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT. 

No city in this country possesses a greater aggregate 
of attractions, both for a summer and winter resort, than 
Oakland. 

The city itself is very beautiful, the surrounding country 
charming; climate, the perfection of equability and salu- 
brity the year round; the people intelligent, sociable and 
refined; religious and educational advantages excellent, and 
opportunities for pleasure and recreation, riding, boating, 
fishing, hunting, bathing, and attending theatricals, lec- 
tures, etc., unsurpassed. 

The facilities for rapid transit with San Francisco and 
the neighboring towns are most complete. Half-hourly trains 
and magnificent ferry-boats run between Oakland and San 
Francisco. 

Added to all of these attractions are hotel accommoda- 
tions of the most superior character. 

THE TUBBS AND GALINDO HOTELS, under the 
proprietorship and management of Mr. J. M. Lawlor, are 
in every respect first-class establishments. 

THE TUBBS HOTEL, 

Erected by Hiram Tubbs, Esq., is a magnificent structure, 
occupying a whole block of ground, at the corner of Fifth 
Avenue and Twelfth Street, East Oakland, 35 minutes from 
San Francisco. 

It is built in modern style, with broad, sunny verandas, 
spacious halls and stairways, with over 200 elegant apart- 
ments, perfectly appointed throughout, and surrounded by 
beautiful green lawns, ornamental trees and blooming flower 
gardens. 

Splendid macadamized roads extend for miles in all 
directions. 

Charming Lake Merritt, affording excellent boating, is 
within five minutes' walk. 

Street cars, running to all parts of the city, pass in front. 

Designed and conducted for that special purpose, it 
affords one of the most delightful resorts on the continent 
for families, tourists and others, seeking the quiet and re- 
spectability of home life with first-class hotel accommoda- 
tions. 

THE GALINDO HOTEL, 

A large, elegant building, finely appointed throughout, is 
situated on Eighth Street, near Broadway, convenient to all 
street car and railway lines. Its superior table, perfect 
attention and reasonable rates, have given it a great reputa- 
tion throughout the country. 

Health-seekers and tourists, single or by families, will find 
the Galindo a most enjoyable, home-like place. 



SAN FRANCISCO. 



23 



A radius of two hundred and fifty miles embraces more 
that is grand and beautiful in nature and art than can be 
found in any other country. 

Five miles across the bay lies Oakland, the Brooklyn of 
San Francisco, a beautiful city of 35,000 inhabitants, pos- 
sessing a delightful climate, fine churches, excellent educa- 
tional institutions, splendid residences, gardens and drives. 




CALIFORNIA SAFE DEPOSIT AND TRUST CO.'S BUILDING. 

J. D. FRY. PRESIDENT; O. R THOMPSON, TREASURER; WILLIAM CUNNINGHAM. SECRETARY. 



The railway depot and ferry house of the Central Pacific 
Railroad is an immense and magnificent structure, over 1,000 
feet in length, its foundations covering an area of four acres. 

Piedmont, Alameda and Berkeley are charming places 



24 



CALIFORNIA. 



in the neighborhood — the latter containing the State Uni- 
versity. San Rafael, at the base of Mount Tamalpais, about 
fifty minutes from San Francisco, is one of the most delight- 
ful places on the coast for residence and summer or winter 
resort. The great watering places of Monterey, Santa 
Cruz and Pescadero, and San Jose, the "Garden City," to 




be hereafter more fully noticed, are all within an easy day's 
ride southward. The wonders of the Yosemite, of the Big- 
Trees of Calaveras and Mariposa, the Geysers and Petrified 
Forests, as well as the famous mountain resorts of Lakes 
Tahoe, Donner, Weber and Independence, requiring more 
extended excursions, will be described in their proper order. 



SAN DIEGO. 




CALIPOENIA 

Health and Pleasure Kesorts. 



SAX DIEGO ADVERTISEMENTS. 



For first-class Hotel Accommodation-— go to the "Horton 
House, W. E. Hadley, proprietor. 

Banking 1 Business — Consolidated Bank of San Diego, corner Fifth 
and G streets. Capital, $200,000. O. S. Witherby, President; Levi Chase, 
Vice-President; Bryant Howard, Cashier. 

Baths— Turkish and Hot Water— J. V. Mumford. Fifth street, 
between C and D. 

Baths— Swimming Pioneer "Sea Nymph"— Pacific Coasts. S. 
Co's Wharf, W. W. Collier, proprietor. 

Book and Job Printing — San Diego Union, (Daily and Weekly,) 
Douglas Gunn, proprietor. 

Books and Stationery, Wall Paper, Window Glass and Fancy 
Goods — Established 1869. A. Schneider, proprietor. 

Boots and Shoes — Philadelphia Boot and Shoe Store, Mcintosh & 
Llewelyn, Fifth street. 

Curiosities and Sea Shells (Pacific Coast) — Frick & Sons, 5th st. 

Crockery, Glassware, Cigars, etc. — Palace Crockery Store, E. 
Roller, proprietor, Fifth street. 

Drugs and Chemicals — Charles A. Chase, corner Fifth and F sts. 

Dentist— D. Cave, Fifth street. 

Dry Goods— Marston's, Fifth street, near Post Office. 

Express — "Wells, FargO — Sixth and G sts. J. W. Thompson, agt. 

Fashion Livery and Feed Stables — Hinton & Gordon, corner 
Second and D streets. 

Furnishing Goods — Eockfellow & Co., corner Fifth and F streets. 

Forwarding, Shipping and Commission Merchant— Dealer 

in Honey, Wheat, Coal, etc. A. Wentscher, German Consul, Fifth street. 

General Merchandise, Honey and Beeswax — Hamilton & Co. 

Hardware, Farm Machinery, Groceries and General Merchandise 
— Gruendike & Co., corner Sixth and H streets. 

f Hair-Dressing Saloon — First-class Enamel Baths — Charles Snider, 
proprietor, Fifth street. 

Photographic Views — J. A. Sheriff, corner Fifth and E sts. 

Pianos and Organs — For Sale and Rent, also Repairing — Blackmer 
& Schneider, Fifth street. 

Real Estate — Morse, Noell & Whaley, Bank building, Plaza. 

Pacific Coast Steamship Co. — J. H. Simpson, agent. Office at 
Company's wharf, foot of Fifth street. 



SAN DIEGO. 25 

Confining our attention to the health and pleasure re- 
sorts of the Pacific Coast north of latitude 31°, and following 
the order of description indicated, 

SAN DIEGO, the extreme southwestern city of the Union, 
deserves our first consideration. Three hundred and forty 
years ago Cabrillo, the Spanish navigator, discovered the 
beautiful bay of San Diego, by him called Port San Miguel. 
Sixty years later, Viscayno, by direction of King Philip, sur- 
veyed and named it San Diego. One hundred and sixty 
years then elapsed when Father Francis Junipero Serra be- 
came the pioneer of civilization in California, by founding 
here the first of the Missions, which in succeeding years 
were established upon the choicest locations along the 
coast for 500 miles northward. The natives, at first hos- 
tile, were soon subdued and utilized, orchards and vine- 
yards were planted, a grove of bearing olives and two 
towering palm trees still witnessing the intelligence and en- 
terprising spirit of the Fathers. 

Upon this historic ground, in latitude 32° N., 482 miles 
south of San Francisco, and about 13 miles north of the boun- 
dary line between Mexico and the United States, gradually 
sloping from the beautiful harbor, lies the handsome city of 
San Diego. It contains a population of about 3,000, chiefly 
American-born citizens, exceptionally intelligent and dis- 
tinguished for their abiding faith in the future of their 
chosen home. 

A magnificent public school building occupies a command- 
ing situation, overlooking the city. The fine County Court 
House and the Horton House next engage the attention. 
Besides, there are many well-built blocks of brick and 
stone, and handsome residences, surrounded with beautiful 
lawns, flower gardens and orchards of semi-tropical fruits. 

Fifth Street, the principal business thoroughfare, ex- 
tends from the harbor, through the central portion of the 
town, back to the gently rising hills. Here I was surprised 
to see, at Hamilton & Co.'s, the most extensive stock of gen- 
eral merchandise south of San Francisco, except at Los 
Angeles. The city is well provided with churches, schools 



26 CALIFORNIA. 

and reading rooms, an active Board of Trade, a historical 
society, gas, water, and real estate agents. The harbor of 
San Diego is not only far superior to any other on the 
southern coast, but it is excellent without comparison, 
accessible, safe and commodious. Captain C. B. Johnson, 
of the Orizaba, an experienced and able navigator, familiar 
with the great harbors of Europe, as well as of this coun- 
try, who has sailed in and. out of it, without accident, every 
few days for the past eight years, says it is one of the best 
he has ever seen, with a good roadstead, anchorage and 
permanent channels. 

The bold headland of Point Loma, upwards of 500 feet 
in height, projects far out to sea, forming an effectual bar- 
rier against the northwest winds and seas. A. narrow penin- 
sula, extending for miles on the southwest, so completes the 
land-lock, that small boats ply the harbor in safety, when 
severe storms are raging outside. Deep-draft ships enter at 
all times, and lie at the wharves or at anchor in perfect se- 
curity. Ten miles in length, and with a deep-water channel 
from one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide in the nar- 
rowest places, there is ample room for all the demands of a 
large commerce. 

The climate of San Diego is probably unsurpassed in 
the world, for the combined excellences of almost perpetual 
sunshine and summer without enervating heat, dryness 
without irritation, equability and salubrity. The cold, 
harsh winds which sweep over the north coast, pass San 
Diego untouched 75 miles at sea. A gentle sea breeze flows 
inland during the day, tempering the heated air from the in- 
terior to a delicious softness. The nights are almost always 
sufficiently cool for refreshing sleep, and the heat of mid- 
summer never oppressive. 

Flowers bloom throughout the year, frosts are rarely 
seen, and snow unknown below the base of the distant 
mountains. Exempt from malarial fevers, tornadoes and 
thunder storms, there is probably no more perfect climate. 
The average annual rainfall is 9.59; rainy days, 40.5; 
mean temperature of January, 57°; July, 65°; difference, 8°. 
San Diego contains one of the best hotels on the Pacific 
Coast. 



NATIONAL CITY. 27 

The Horton House, under the proprietorship and 
management of W. E. Hadley, Esq., is, in all respects, a first- 
class establishment. A large, well-built, imposing structure, 
occupying a central situation, convenient to depots and 
wharves, and business houses, it commands a fine view of 
the harbor and mountains. 

The rooms are handsomely furnished, large and light, 
provided throughout with water, gas, bells, closets, and all 
the modern improvements. The stairs and hall-ways are 
ample, parlors, dining, reading and billiard rooms, spacious, 
comfortable and convenient. 

The depot of the California Southern Pacific Railroad is 
only three blocks distant, and the dock of the Pacific Coast 
steamers within five minutes' walk, though carriages from 
the house meet all trains and steamers. 

The sheltered waters of the harbor afford the best boat- 
ing, fishing and sea bathing on the Southern Coast, for which 
excellent facilities are provided. The old Mission Church 
and orchard, National City, the "Monument," Tia Juana 
Springs, El Tejon, Strawberry, and other rich valleys, are 
all within a few hours drive. 

NATIONAL CITY, the Pacific terminus of the Southern 
California Railroad, and Southwestern Transcontinental 
Railway System, is very pleasantly situated immediately on 
the shore of the splendid harbor, four miles below the city of 
San Diego. The location is an admirable one, sloping grad- 
ually toward the bay, but sufficient for thorough drainage. 
Here the company have already made extensive improve- 
ments, comprising a wharf, depot, warehouses, etc., and are 
daily running trains 126 miles to Colton, where connection is 
made with the Southern Pacific and all points on the conti- 
nent. A commodious and excellent hotel and several hand- 
some residences have been erected since my first visit three 
years ago. 

The San Diego Land and Town Company, with principal 
office at National City, own about 50 square miles of country 
bordering on the bay, and extending from seven to eight 
miles back therefrom, which is now offered in tracts to suit, 



28 CALIFORNIA. 

upon six years' credit, if desired, with interest at seven per 
cent. 

These lands embrace portions of the great Ranch o de la 
Nacion and Otay, the former owned by the Kimball brothers, 
Frank A. and Warren C, the pioneers of National City, 
whose elegant residences and grounds will first attract the 
attention of the visitor. The title is United States patent, 
and the lands among the choicest in this region, growing, in 
great perfection, oranges, lemons, limes, figs, apricots, 
peaches, pears, apples, and many other fruits. 

While the future of San Diego and National City is, to a 
considerable extent, dependent upon the utilization of their 
excellent harbor for the purposes of foreign commerce, they 
have other great resources in the infancy of their develop- 
ment, which will ultimately build up a flourishing city at the 
only practical seaport along 400 miles of coast. 

SAN DIEGO COUNTY alone is larger than the State of 
Massachusetts, containing an area of 15,156 square miles, or 
9,580,000 acres, from which, after making liberal deductions 
for mountain and desert wastes, there will remain, at least, 
5,000,000 acres of available land, capable, considering the 
manifold productions and industries of this region, of sup- 
porting many times its present population. 

After twenty years of experiment, the capacities and 
value of this Southern country are just beginning to be re- 
alized and appreciated. Its general aspect, especially along 
the immediate coast during the summer months, is barren 
and forbidding, in striking contrast with the green fields and 
foliage of the Atlantic States. 

Originally held valueless except for grazing purposes, 
or where freely watered by irrigation, it has been gradually 
demonstrated that large areas will, in ordinary seasons, 
produce the most excellent and abundant crops of grain, 
cereals, and fruit, without any irrigation, and that, even 
upon the dry mesas and foothills, thorough cultivation is so 
complete a substitute for water, that the most gratifying re- 
sults are obtained by the use of well and artesian supplies. 
So rapid and luxuriant are the growths in the vegetable 



SAN DIEGO COUNTY. 29 

kingdom that, in a few years, the most unsightly places are 
converted into beautiful homes, amidst shady groves, blos- 
soming orchards and gardens. 

Two mountain chains traverse the county in a northwest- 
erly direction, the San Jacinto and Coast Kanges. That 
portion lying east of the San Jacinto mountains is a hot, 
sandy waste, belonging to the Colorado desert. The country 
between these mountains and the Coast Range, though much 
broken, embraces numerous fertile valleys and arable slopes 
and mesas, and extensive and excellent stock and bee ranges. 
The higher elevations, and many of the canons and foothill 
benches are timbered with live oak, cottonwood, sycamore, 
and willow, growing along the bed of the streams. Riding 
all through this interior section three years ago, I Avas sur- 
prised at the yield and excellence of crops grown without ir- 
rigation. It abounds with game, especially deer, rabbit and 
quail, the latter often seen by the hundreds. 

West of the coast mountains to the sea, though still a 
rugged, broken region, the productive area materially in- 
creases, the arable valleys, mesas and foothills are more 
extensive, streams more numerous, and rainfall greater. 
Along the Tia Juana, Sweetwater, Sati Diego, San Ber- 
nardino, Santa Margarita and Temecula, which flow to the 
sea in winter, are considerable bodies of very choice lands, 
growing everything generally without irrigation. 

The El Cajon Valley is famous for its fertility, and the 
Bear, Poway and others, are very rich and productive. 
The soils are of various composition, a fine alluvial prevail- 
ing in the lower valleys, and a reddish loam underlaid with a 
clay adobe upon the high lands. While growing in great 
perfection most cereals, roots and fruits, the orange, raisin 
grape and apricot promise the richest rewards to the hus- 
bandman. I have visited all of the principal orange groves, 
vineyards and orchards on the southern coast, and have 
found no oranges, raisins and apricots superior to those 
raised by Higgins and others, on the National Ranch, and 
in the valley of the Cajon. The population of San Diego 
County is about 14,000, or one to the square mile. Only 
about 15,000 acres are under cultivation, yet it has pro- 



30 CALIFORNIA. 

duced in a single season over 200,000 bushels of grain, 
5,000 pounds of butter and cheese, 465,420 pounds of wool, 
besides a large quantity of fruit. 

This is the greatest honey producing country iu the world . 
San Diego's exportations for 1878, amount to 1,490,340 
pounds. 

There are about 190,000 sheep, 18,000 horned cattle, 
5000 horses, 600 mules, and 2500 hogs in the county. Its 
rear estate and improvements are assessed at $3,400,000. 

An extensive gold field, though but little developed, is 
yielding over $400,000 annually. 

EXCUKSIONS FROM SAN DIEGO. 

Trip No. 1. — Horseback to Tia Juana Hot Sulphur Springs, 
in Lower California. Round Trip, 30 miles. 

THE TIA JUANA HOT SULPHUR SPEINGS are sit- 
uated in the Tia Juana Valley, Lower California, about 14 
miles southeast of San Diego, two miles beyond the bound- 
ary line between the United States and Mexico. Resorted to 
by the natives from their earliest traditions, and known to the 
whites since their first occupation of the country, they were 
first improved by Mr. Lane about five years ago, and opened 
to public patronage. There are four springs at present 
developed, ranging in temperature from 116° to 120°, in 
which sulphur and iron predominate. They are highly 
recommended for rheumatism, and all blood and skin dis- 
eases. There is a comfortable hotel, with accommodations for 
18 guests, good bathing facilities, including the best hot 
sand baths I have visited. Messrs. J. M. Moore and John 
H. Johnson are the present proprietors. The charge is $9 
per week, including everything. A tri-weekly stage runs 
from San Diego to the Springs. Unlike most valuable min- 
eral waters, they are on the open plain, with good roads 
leading thereto. For ten miles I rode within sight of the 
beautiful harbor, through National City, past Capt. Robin- 
son's fine country seat, the salt works and Chinese gardens, 
when turning gradually away from the ocean, I entered the 
valley of the Tia Juana, and soon crossed the line into Mex- 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN DIEGO. 31 

ico. Two miles up the Tia Juana Creek, through a Mexican 
settlement, brought me to the Springs. During the night 
my horse broke loose, and while I was enjoying a luxurious 
bath and refreshing sleep, the old fellow was coolly march- 
ing back to his stall in San Diego. Rising at 5 o'clock as 
usual, and finding it gone, I questioned the Chinese cook, 
the only other person astir: 

" Where you get him ? " " San Diego Stable. " " Stable 
horse sabe heap; he go back sure." Carefully examining 
the road for a short distance, I recognized the animal's 
homeward bound tracks. There was no other horse obtain- 
able, and having engaged passage by steamer to sail that 
day, I returned on foot. Tendering the keeper of the Pa- 
cific Stable two dollars, the price agreed upon, he returned 
one dollar, which I note as an act characteristic of a true 
Californian. 

Teip No. 2. — By the California Southern Railway, to Colton, 
San Bernardino County, via San Luis Bey, Temecula, 
San Jacinto and Riverside. Round trip, 254 miles. 

San Diego is the Pacific terminus of the Southern Cali- 
fornia Railroad, now in operation 127 miles northward, to a 
junction with the Southern Pacific at Colton, 60 miles east 
of Los Angeles. Important extensions eastward, through 
rich mining, pastoral and agricultural regions, are contem- 
plated. Railroads are the most important agencies in the 
amazing development of the nineteenth century, and this 
road marks a new era in the settlement and industrial 
growth of San Diego County. It crosses the county in a 
northerly direction, through the San Margarita Valley, 
Temecula Canon, and across the plains of San Jacinto. 

San Diego, Old Town, Selwyn, Cordero, 26 miles; En- 
cinitas, 35 miles: Stuart's, 41 miles; Frazier's, 44 miles; 
San Luis Rey, or Ocean Side, 47 miles ; Ysidora, 51 
miles; De Luz, 60 miles; Fall brook, 66 miles; Temecula, 
78 miles; Pinacate, 103 miles; San Jacinto, 116 miles; 
Riverside, 122 miles; Colton, 126 miles, are the principal 
settlements and stations on the line. Crossing the dry bed 



32 CALIFORNIA. 

of the San Diego River, just beyond Old Town, it follows 
near the ocean shore for over 40 miles. 

Encinitas, on the Cottonwood, is attracting the attention 
of home and health seekers. 

THE OLD MISSION OF SAN LUIS KEY, founded in 
1798, one of the largest and best built on the coast, is about 
three and a half miles from the San Luis Rey Station, or 
Ocean Side. This interesting relic of our first civilization is 
23icturesquely situated in the centre of the beautiful valley 
of that name, its massive six-foot walls slowly crumbling 
back to earth again. On a former visit I regretted to learn 
that large quantities of its masoury had been carried away 
by the neighboring settlers for building purposes. 

These old Spanish Missions should not only be spared 
such barbarous destruction, but repaired and preserved as 
our most interesting historical relics. 

Ocean Side is destined to become the popular watering- 
place of the interior country. A magnificent driving beach 
stretches away for over 25 miles, sloping gradually, afford- 
ing excellent bathing places. Here taking leave of the 
ocean, and following up the green valley of the San Mar- 
garita, we were soon on the Don Foster Rancho, one of the 
most extensive and valuable estates in this region. Although 
a dry year, hundreds of cattle, rolling fat, are feeding on its 
rich moist bottoms. 

The Mansion house, with its fine grounds and orchards, 
are seen from the train. Soon the valley rapidly narrows, 
and we enter the wild rock-bound canon of Temecula. Live 
oak, cottonwood, sycamore and willow grow along the banks 
of the river. 

The De Luz Hot Springs (unimproved) are near the sta- 
tion of De Luz. 

At Fallbrook there is a new and prosperous settlement, 
engaged in general farming and fruit culture. 

It is found that not only grapes, but also oranges of ex- 
cellent quality, can be successfully grown on the rolling- 
high lands, a short distance back from the station, with 
little or no irrigation. Twelve miles from thence the train 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN DIEGO. 33 

emerges from the canon, and enters the plains of San Ja- 
cinto. On the right the eye surveys an extensive scope of 
rolling and mountainous country, suited mainly for grazing 
purposes. 

At the village of Temecula, the site of an old Mission 
Church and Indian Ranchero, there is a considerable body 
of good farming and fruit land. 

Descending toward the Santa Ana Valley, approaching 
Colton, the extensive orchards and vineyards of Riverside, 
their green, luxuriant verdure in striking contrast with the 
arid country surrounding, are seen in the distance, on 
the left. 

Tourists will be well repaid for spending several days in 
this section, visiting San Bernardino, Arrowhead Springs 
and other place of interest. 

Trip No. 4 — Horseback from San Diego to San Francisco via 
Bear and Poway Valleys, San Jacinto Plains, San Ber- 
nardino, Arrowhead Springs, Riverside, San Gabriel, Si- 
erra Madre Villa, Lus Angeles, Santa Monica, Ventura, 
The Ojai Valley, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Paso 
Robles Sjyrings, Monterey, Santa Cncz, San Jose and San 
Mateo, 800 miles. 

Horseback is oue of the most enjoyable and healthful 
modes of traveling. A good California saddle horse can be 
purchased for from $10 to $75. Let the equipments be as light 
as possible, with safety. To avoid the weight and expense 
of the superfluous Mexican trappings, I have, on several oc- 
casions, bought a good Spanish tree and put on the simple 
parts necessary, at a cost not exceeding $8. The ordinary 
Spanish bit is also a cruel infliction. Unless the horse is 
headstrong and vicious, a plain light American bit is far pref- 
erable. The use of the martingale, double rein and crupper 
is not recommended. A good saddle-blanket is very impor- 
tant. Those made from felt or grass are best, being least 
liable to heat and blister the animal's back. 

The service of the horse depends more upon the skill and 
care of the rider, than upon its good qualities. 



34 CALIFORNIA. 

A natural, erect, unrestrained position in the saddle, 
bending slightly forward when galloping, with stirrups about 
one and one-half inches shorter than the leg, heels lowest, 
toes out, holding rein in left hand, will be found easiest for 
both horse and rider. Loosen the sinch when watering, and, 
if the day is hot, unsaddle and pour water over the animal's 
back to prevent blisters. 

For camping out, a double blanket and rubber will be 
sufficient for any season in California, excepting in the ele- 
vated mountain districts. 

Thirty miles a day, I have found far enough for long 
journeys. 

A very interesting ride through the country already as 
fully described as the limits or this work will permit, brought 
me to the borders of 

SAN BERNARDINO COUNTY, which comprises an 
area of 23,472 square miles. Though mainly mountains and 
desert, the San Bernardino Valley, well watered by mountain 
streams and artesian wells, is of great fertility. It has been 
settled for over twenty years, and is now a garden of farms and 
orchards. The surrounding mountains contain rich mines of 
gold and silver, and valuable forests of pine. 

SAN BERNARDINO, the principal town, is centrally 
located in the valley, about five miles from the old Spanisli 
Mission, now in ruins, and three miles from Colton, on the 
S. P. R. R. The extension of the California Southern Rail- 
way, now being built, runs through the place. 

RIVERSIDE, on the Santa Ana river, about ten miles 
below, is the second most important settlement in the 
county, and one of the most attractive and flourishing on the 
Southern coast. The situation is especially favorable for the 
growth of citrus fruits and raisin grapes, which reach great 
perfection here. Its dry, sunny, equable climate is also much 
sought by consumptives and other invalids. 



THE ARROWHEAD HOT SPRINGS, 



35 



THE ARROWHEAD HOT SPRINGS.— The Arrowhead 
Hot Springs are situated in the foothills of the San Bernardino 
Mountains, about six miles northeast of San Bernardino, 
and 2000 feet above the level of the sea. They derive their 
name from a remarkable arrow-shaped growth of vegetation 




on the side of the mountain, visible for several miles. 
Both the location and the virtue of these springs are all that 
could be desired for the establishment of one of the greatest 
sanitariums in the United States. The grounds embrace 
160 acres, an open terraced bench, with a southern exposure, 



36 CALIFORNIA. 

surrounded by high mountains on the north, and command- 
ing a magnificent view of the valley below. An orchard 
and vineyard bears the choicest fruits. The springs cover 
upwards of 50 acres, ranging in temperature from 60° to 
210°. They have proved very efficacious in the cure of lung 
and bronchial affections, rheumatism, scrofula, dropsy and 
all skin diseases. 

Besides hot and cold, vapor, steam and mud baths, there 
is a swimming pool, 75 by 100 feet, and from three to ten 
feet in depth — one of the very best I have ever seen. 

There are comfortable cottage accommodations for 25 
guests, and unlimited room for campers, for which there are 
rare advantages. 

Strawberry Creek, a clear mountain stream, flows past 
the place, giving an excellent and abundant water supply. 
There is also a shady and picturesque canon near at hand, a 
favorite resort for picnicers. 

Dr. D. N. Smith, the owner of the springs, an experi- 
enced physician, gives his personal attention to the treat- 
ment, health and comfort of his patrons. 

THE WATEEMAN SPRINGS are situated about three 
quarters of a mile west of the Arrowhead, at an elevation of 
1750 feet above the sea. Mr. Waterman, their owner, being 
engaged in profitable mining operations, prefers to reserve 
this delightful place as a quiet home for his family, rather 
than open it to public patronage. 

LOS ANGELES COUNTY.— Proceeding westward, 
leaving Cucamonga on the right, I soon entered Los An- 
geles County, the heart of Southern California, and in cli- 
mate and productions one of the most favored portions of 
the globe. 

Los Angeles, Anaheim, San Gabriel, Pasadena, Orange, 
Santa Monica, Santa Ana, Downey, Compton, Wilmington, 
San Pedro, Pomona, El Monte and Spadra are the most 
important towns and settlements. 

Passing through the pleasant villages of Pomona, Spa- 



SAN GABRTEL VALLEY 



37 



dra, El Monte and Savanna, a ride of about 40 miles, 
brought rne to 

THE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY, famous for the beauty 
of its situation, excellence of climate, extensive and pro- 
ductive orange groves and vineyards, and elegant country 
seats. Here are the magnificent estates of Gen. Stoneman, 




Messrs. Rose, Baldwin, J. De Barth Shorb, Wilson, May- 
berry, Titus, Chapman, Carter, Hastings, Kinney, Cogswell 
and others. 

Chas. T. Wilson, Esq., real estate agent, San Gabriel, 
may be addressed by those desiring homes in this de- 
lightful spot. 



38 CALIFORNIA. 

THE SAN GABRIEL MISSION, founded by Fathers 
Oamberra and Somera in 1871, is an object of much interest 
to tourists. 

THE SIERRA MADRE VILLA, owned by Cogswell, 
the artist, situated at the base of the Sierra Madre Moun- 
tains, at an elevation of 1800 feet above the sea, overlooking 
this charming valley, is deservedly one of the most popular 
and frequented summer and winter resorts of this region. 
The property comprises 500 acres, highly improved with 
orange groves, orchards, vineyards, gardens and lawns, in 




SIERRA MADRE VILLA. 



the midst of which are the hotel buildings and cottages, 
commodious and first-class in all their appointments. There 
are 54 rooms en suite, large, light and airy, with gas, hot and 
cold water, and elegantly furnished throughout; music and 
billiard halls, and a veranda over 200 feet in length, enclosed 
with sliding windows for regulating the sun and air exposure, 
to suit the pleasure and health of the guest. Excellent 
mountain water is conducted in iron pipes into every apart- 
ment, and throughout the grounds. Gen. Sherman, after his 
recent visit there, ' ' took occasion to express the emphatic 



3P^.iaT X. 



lit M § Sliiiiit Stitil 



BAKER BLOCK, LOS ANGELES. 




Brush Electric Light, " Mast " System, 



NORTH MAIN STREET. 



f^^ss.'j? x. 



CALIFORNIA 

K)edth aijd flleasupe ||esonts. 

Los Angeles Advertisements. 

• 

For the Best Hotel Accommodations Qo »Ei th * e S^'ife^ 

Rates, $2, $2.50 and $3 per day. 

^tP9IT1chin ApPflPV P aciflc Coast Steamship Co., No 8 Commercial Street. 

Dnnl/inrv Duninnoo Los Angeles County Bank, Temple Block. John E. 
DdlliUlig DuSElScSb. Plater, President. H. L. MacNeil, Cashier. 

Dnnl/n nnA Ctntinnnvii Hellman, Stassforth & Co., 120 North Spring and 
BOOKS dim OiailOnery. 117 North Main Streets. 

Dnn+n nnA Chnnn The Queen Fashionable Boot and Shoe Store and Manu- 
DUUIS 31111 OllUGO. factory. 60 and 62 North Main St. Jos. Mesmer, Prop. 

Flniac 9nH PhomipjlSc Preuss & Pironi, Wholesale and Retail Druggists. 

U n rt\\UOYO Harper, Reynolds & Co., 108 and 110 Main and 77 Los Angeles Streets. 

Unfit nnA Pnn*» H. Siegel, Fine Hats and Furnishing Good*, Corner Main and 
SldlS ClIlU L"d|iOi Commercial Streets. 

I ;„.».. mnA Unnl/n N. A. Covarruhias. Turf Gallery, First, between Main 
Lively allU naCKS. and Spring Streets. 

WfltQru Pllhlin and Attorney-at-Law. Bradner W. Lee, Foom 14, Baker Block. 

Physician and Surgeon. wEReedRoom837 - d38BakerBiock 

Whnlpcalo Prnpprc H- Newnlark & Co -< 105 > i07 > 109 and in LoB Angeies st. 



LOS ANGELES. 39 

opinion that the Sierra Madre Villa was the most attractive 
spot for having a quiet, good time, on the American con- 
tinent." There is telegraphic communication with Los An- 
geles. 15 miles distant. A carriage meets every train at the 
San Gabriel Depot of the S. P. R. R., five miles from the 
Villa. The San Gabriel Narrow Gauge Railway will in a few 
months convey guests to the entrance of the grounds. Mr. 
W. P. Rhodes, manager of the Villa, may be addressed at 
Los Angeles or San Gabriel. 

PASADENA. — Following the foothills five miles 
through a succession of orange groves, vineyards and or- 
chards, I was soon in the midst of the delightful settlement 
of Pasadena. Spending the winter of 1874 and '75 at Los 
Angeles, I was accustomed to gallop over this beautiful 
tract, and saw the founders, then known as the " Indiana 
Colony," constructing their reservoir and laying down the 
water pipes. 

What a wonderful change these few years have wrought, 
from a sheep pasture to hundreds of ideal homes, in the 
midst of green lawns and perpetually blooming gardens and 
orchards, bending under the burden of the choicest fruits 
of the land! 

THE HERMOSA VISTA of South Pasadena, G. W. 
Glover proprietor, six and three-quarter miles from Los 
Angeles, a private boarding house, affords all the comforts 
of an elegant home. 

LOS ANGELES. An hour's ride down the picturesque ar- 
royo seco, and I entered the chief city of Southern California. 
Los Angeles is situated on the Los Angeles river, 16 miles 
from the popular seaside resort of Santa Monica, and 20 
miles from its rival, Willmore City. It contains a popula- 
tion of about 23,000, and occupying a central and command- 
ing position, amidst the great resources of this region, will 
increase in size and importance with their development, and 
always be the commercial metropolis of the South Pacific 
Coast. 



40 



CALIFORNIA. 



Examining the magnificent Baker Block, at the time of 
its erection a few years ago, the general opinion seemed to 
be that it was a waste of money to build such a costly struc- 
ture; but now, Colonel Baker, the owner, informs me that 
every room is occupied, and I see several other large and 
elegant business houses in course of construction. 



EXCUESIONS FROM LOS ANGELES. 

Trip No. 1 — From Los Angeles to Santa Monica, the great sea- 
side resort of Southern California. Bound trip, 36 miles. 

SANTA MONICA is situated on the Pacific Ocean, 16 
miles from Los Angeles. The sea-shore here has always 
been a favorite health and pleasure resort from the earliest 
occupation of the country, and has only needed population, 
railroad communication and good accommodations to rapidly 
rival the great watering places of the Atlantic Coast. 




SANTA MONICA HOTEL. 



When I first rode along these shores, nine years ago, 
only a single sheep-herder's cabin marked the site of Santa 
Monica, though there were a number of campers near the 
beach, in the shady, cool canon just beyond. 

But capitalists had already observed its superior advan- 
tages, and soon built a railway from Los Angeles, a wharf, 
hotels and bath-houses, at an expenditure of many hundred 



EXCURSIONS FROM LOS ANGELES. 41 

thousand dollars, and the people from the interior now rush 
to Santa Monica, as the New Yorkers to Coney Island and 
Long Branch. 

It possesses, the year round, one of the most enjoyable 
and healthy climates in the world, being from 10 to 15 de- 
grees cooler than Los Angeles and the interior country in 
summer, and warmer in winter. 

There is a magnificent driving beach stretching away for 
15 miles, good sea fishing, an abundance of water-fowl in 
the neighboring lagoons, and game in the mountains, a few 
miles distant. 

There is a capacious, deep-water roadstead, with good 
anchorage, where vessels may lie in safety the greater por- 
tion of the year. 

The development of this delightful place is largely due to 
the enterprise and abundant capital of Col. Robert Baker, 
of Los Angeles. 

The Santa Monica Hotel, J. W. Scott, Proprietor, open 
the year round, provides excellent accommodations. It con- 
tains sixty well furnished rooms; commands a magnificent 
ocean view, and is only about 150 yards from the beach and 
the railroad depot. The "Union Livery Stable," M. R. 
Gaddy, proprietor, is on the adjoining block. 

The Santa Monica Baths, built at a cost of several thous- 
and dollars, by far the most complete on the Southern Coast, 
are also under Mr. Scott's management, and afford unusual 
facilities for hot and cold salt and fresh water baths. 

The Santa Monica Pavilion, 60 x 150 feet, for dancing, 
picnics, etc., is close at hand. 

Trip No. 2 —From Los Angeles to Santa Ana, by tlie 8. P. 
R. R., via Downey, Norwalk, Fulton Wells, Anaheim and 
Orange. Round trip, 80 miles. 

THE FULTON SULPHUR WELLS are situated on the 
handsome stretch of plateau lying between New and Los An- 
geles rivers, about 14 miles south of the city of Los Angeles, 
two and one-half miles from Norwalk, on the S. P. R. R., 
and 13 miles from the sea-shore. 



42 CALIFORNIA. 

The broad expanse of the beautiful, fertile and highly 
improved valley extends in all directions, the view looking 
eastward, limited by the near lying Chino range, with the 
grand old Sierra Madre and San Bernardino mountains loom- 
ing up in the background. 

Like many of our most valuable discoveries, that of these 
mineral wells was accidental. Dr. J. E. Fulton, the owner, 
was boring for irrigating purposes, when, at a depth of 300 
and 350 feet, these remarkable waters burst forth. The dis- 
covery soon spread abroad, and invalids came to test their 
virtues, with such gratifying results, especially in the cure of 
indigestion, kidney and liver complaints, scrofula, rheuma- 
tism and skin diseases, that a Sanitarium has been established 
for their treatment, and upwards of $20,000 expended in the 
erection of hotel buildings, cottages, baths, reading and bil- 
liard rooms, for the excellent accommodation of thirty guests. 

The grounds embrace sixty acres, with gardens, lawns 
and walks tastefully laid out, shaded with cypress aud other 
handsome evergreens; a splendid circular croquet ground, 
100 feet in diameter, being surrounded with a double row of 
Eucalyptus. 

The situation, both as to scenic attractions, healthfulness, 
mildness and equability of climate, is one of the most .de- 
lightful in the world. 

Dr. Fulton, a skillful physician, is in constant attendance 
at the Sanitarium, devoting his entire time to the health and 
comfort of his patients. 

The charges for board, baths and treatment range from 
$8 to $12 per week. 

Analysis of one gallon of water, 231 cubic inches, from 
Fulton Sulphur Wells : 

Grains. 

Bicarbonate of Soda 2.20 

Bicarbonate of Lime 12.00 

Bicarbonate of Magnesia 16.50 

Bicarbonate of Iron 13.00 

Sulphate of Soda 90 

Chloride of Sodium 10.40 

Silica 30 

Trace of Iodine and Potash. 



EXCURSIONS FROM LOS ANGELES. 43 

ANAHEIM.— Returning from Fulton Wells to the train 
at Norwalk, a ride of 16 miles brings us to Anaheim, the 
city of gardens, orange groves and vineyards, where almost 
every resident owns his home, and has either acquired a 
competence, or is free from debt. 

This pioneer and most flourishing colony was established 
in 1859 by Germans from San Francisco. It occupies a 
level tract of wonderful productiveness, 34 miles southeast 
of Los Angeles, 12 miles from the ocean, irrigated by the 
Santa Ana River, and is especially noted for its wines, of 
which 800,000 gallons have been produced in a single year. 
It also possesses a most salubrious and charming climate, 
and is a delightful resort for invalids and tourists. 

Westminster, Gardeu Grove, Santa Ana, Gospel Swamp, 
Tustin City, Orange and San Juan Capistrano are other flour- 
ishing towns and settlements in this portion of the county. 

En route to Los Angeles, my attention was called to the 
great Nadeau vineyard, comprising 2,000 acres, the largest 
in the United States. 

Mr. Nadeau, the owner, is erecting the magnificent Na- 
deau block of Los Angeles. 

Trip No. 3. — From Los Angeles to the Seaside Resort of 
Wilbnore City, Wilmington and 8 an Pedro, by the S. P. 
R. R. Round trip, 56 miles. 

A delightful ride of 23 miles, through the orange groves, 
vineyards and orchards of the beautiful Los Angeles Valley, 
brought me to 

WILLMORE CITY, founded by W. E. Willmore, in 
1882, one of the most popular seaside resorts of Southern 
California. 

It is finely situated, immediately on the shore of the 
Pacific, on a commanding bluff of the old Spanish Rancho 
Cerritos, and embraces, together with the lands of the 
American Colony, a splendid tract of over 3,000 acres, laid 
out into blocks, lots, parks and broad avenues and streets, 
and abundantly supplied, through iron pipes, with excellent 
soft water, from several flowing artesian wells. 



44 CALIFORNIA. 

The beach is one of the most magnificent on the Pacific 
Coast, and in some respects unequalled on the Atlantic, 
stretching away for nearly ten miles, perfectly smooth and 
level, and so hard that the shoes of a horse barely leave an 
impression. 

It slopes very gradually, is perfectly free from stones, 
quick-sands, holes, and undertow — one of the best and saf- 
est bathing beaches I have ever seen. There are already 
good bathing facilities, but a very extensive and complete 
bathing establishment and pavilion is in course of erection, 
upon the plan of those at the great watering places of the 
East. 

The climate is that delightful mean the year round 
found no where in the world in greater perfection than near 
the seashore in Los Angeles County, from ten to twenty de- 
grees cooler in summer than in the interior valleys, and 
warmer in the so-called winter months, without malaria, 
very healthy and invigorating. 

Game abounds in the neighboring salt water lagoons, 
especially wild geese and ducks. From spring until fall the 
beach is strewn with shells and sea-grasses, so that for 
health and pleasure-seekers, tourists and sportsmen, the 
year round, Willmore City affords extraordinary attractions. 

The Bay View House, of which Mr. James H. Smith is 
proprietor, provides good accommodations for 30 or 40 
guests, at seven dollars per week. The hotel comprises 
two commodious buildings, occupying a fine block of six 
lots near the seaside, with light, airy, well furnished rooms, 
under the personal supervision of Mrs. Smith. There is also 
a good livery attached . 

The bathing house, pavilion and city railway are only one 
block away. 

The Willmore City Steeet Cars, owned by Judge E. M. 
Widney, of Los Angeles, meet all trains to and from Los 
Angeles, at Willmore' s Station, on the Southern Pacific 
Railway, 21 miles from Los Angeles, leaving Willmore City 
at 7 :20 and 10 :45 a.m., 12:30 and 4:30 p.m.; fare, 15 cents 
for adults and 10 cents for children under eight years. 



VENTURA COUNTY. 45 

The ride is a very pleasant one of about three miles, in 
full view of the Pacific on the right and the orchards and 
vineyards of the famous valley in the distance on the left, 
terminating at the sea shore, near Judge Widney's hand- 
some cottage. 

WILMINGTON, the home of Gen. Banning, and seat of 
a flourishing seminary, is situated about a mile beyond the 
Willmore City Junction. 

Since the extension of the railway three miles to 

SAN PEDEO, the chief port of entry of the Southern 
Pacific Coast, it is rapidly becoming its principal seaport 
town. 

Travelers will find good accommodations here at the 
" San Pedro Hotel," kept by Capt. R. Hillyer. 

After a pleasant ride of about 40 miles through the pictur- 
esque Cayuenga Pass, along the southern borders of the 
plains of San Fernando, leaving the old Spanish mission in 
the distance on the right, I entered 

VENTURA COUNTY. —It embraces that portion of South- 
ern California extending along the Pacific Ocean, between 
latitude 34° and 34|°, from Point Rincon to Point Magu, a 
distance of about 45 miles; and thence in a northeasterly 
direction, crossing the Conejo mountains to the summit of 
the Santa Susana Range, about 29 miles; thence northerly 
about 16 miles to the Coast Range, near Lake Costac; thence 
westerly and northwesterly along the summit of the San 
Emideo mountains, about 21 miles to Cuyama Valley, and 
from thence south 36 miles, to the Pacific Ocean; being- 
bounded on the north by Kern and San Luis Obispo coun- 
ties, on the south and east by the Pacific Ocean and Los 
Angeles County, and on the west by Santa Barbara County. 
It comprises, including the two small islands of San Nich- 
olas and Anacapa, an area of about 1,380 square miles, or 
1,100,000 acres. For a distance of about 13 miles from Point 
Rincon southwest, the high hills of the Coast Range and of 
the San Miguelito present their bold bluffs to the ocean. 



46 CALIFORNIA. 

The Santa Ynez and San Rafael mountains, rising to an ele- 
vation of over 4, 000 feet, 12 miles from the seashore, encircle 
the rich and charming valleys of the Ojai and Santa Ana. 
The San Emideo range of mountains encroach upon its 
northwestern borders, while the Conejo and Santa Susana 
ranges enclose the fertile and beautiful Conejo and Pleasant 
Valleys, in the southeastern portion. 

It is well watered by numerous rivers, creeks and springs. 
The Santa Clara, its most important river, rises in the Sol- 
edad range of mountains near the Mojave desert, and rap- 
idly descending their southwest slope, cuts out the wild and 
rockbound pass of Soledad, and flowing about 45 miles 
through the southern portion of the county, reaches the ocean 
about five miles southeast of San Buenaventura. Its prin- 
cipal tributaries, the Santa Paula, Peru, Big and Little 
Sespe, are fine, clear, living streams, abounding in trout, 
and furnishing an unfailing supply of water, for irrigation 
and household use for all that portion of the county com- 
prised within the original grants of Sespe, Santa Paula, Sat- 
icoy and San Francisco ranchos, and also extensive water 
powers. The Lockwood, Alamo, Hot Spring and Pine are 
feeders of the Peru and Sespe. The Ventura River, rising 
in the Santa Ynez mountains, flows through the beautiful 
Ojai, and, with its tributaries, the Arroyo San Antonio, 
Canada Leon, Santa Ana, Canada Larga, and Los Coyotos, 
waters large portions of the Ojai, Canada Larga, and Santa 
Ana ranchos, supplies the City of Ventura with pure water, 
and affords excellent water powers. These streams also 
abound with trout, especially the Ventura, as it emerges 
from the mountains, through the well-known hot springs 
canon of Matilija. The Santa Clara, Ojai, Conejo and Pleas- 
ant are the most important valleys. The Santa Clara ex- 
tends across the county a distance of over 40 miles, varying 
in width from three to twenty miles, containing over 200,000 
acres of the richest land on the Pacific Coast. 

The Ojai Valley, situated about ten miles from the ocean 
in the warm embrace of the Santa Ynez and Coast Range of 
Mountains, has deservedly acquired a national reputation 
as a health resort, and is destined to become famous the 



VENTURA COUNTY. 47 

world over as a great natural sanitarium for consumptives, 
asthmatics and rheumatics. The Conejo Valley, its rival in 
beauty of situation and superiority of climatic advantages 
for the healing of lung diseases, is also rich in agricultural 
and grazing resources. 

The timber supply of this part of the coast is deficient. 
The live-oak, a large, wide-spreading, handsome evergreen 
tree, grows quite abundantly, furnishing pleasant parks on 
the high lands, and valuable supplies of wood from the 
thicker growths on the low lands and in the canons. A dense 
thicket of chapparal, mesquit and redwood divides the 
mountain sides with the bare, gray sandstone rocks of the 
tertiary period. The best portions of Ventura County, in 
common with all Southern California, were granted by the 
Mexican Government in extensive tracts of from one league 
(4,438 acres), to 11 leagues (48,420 acres), to its most wealthy 
citizens, without other consideration than actual occupancy. 
During the last thirty years, most of these lordly possessions 
have been acquired by Americans, and subdivided among 
heirs and purchasers, though the Semi, Bio de Santa Clara 
o La Colonia, and Los Posas ranchos, a magnificent domain 
of over 170,000 acres, are mostly owned by Mr. Samuel 
Gray, of Philadelphia, and Hon. Thomas K. Bard, of Hu- 
eneme. They are now, however, open to settlement upon 
liberal terms as to price and payment. About 150,000 acres 
of the county are under cultivation, yielding over 375,000 
bushels of barley, 75,000 bushels of wheat, 50,000 bushels 
of beans, besides large quantities of other crops. The wool 
product amounts to about 450,000 pounds, cheese 150,000 
pounds, and honey 750,000 pounds. There are about 100,000 
sheep in the county, 25,000 hogs, 7000 stand of bees, and 
20,000 bearing fruit trees. The assessed valuation of all 
property is $3,171,126, of which $2,239,335 is upon real 
estate. The county was organized in 1872, and contains a 
population of about 6,000, chiefly Americans. San 
Buenaventura, Santa Paula, Hueneme, Springville, New 
Jerusalem, Saticoy and Nordhoff are the principal towns 
and settlements. 



48 CALIFORNIA. 

We camp for the night under the wide-spreading branches 
of a handsome live-oak, on 

The Rancho el Conejo, comprising 48,671ff acres, origi- 
nally granted to Guerra y Noriega. It is delightfully situa- 
ted 1700 feet above the sea, surrounded and sheltered by 
picturesque oak-clad hills and mountains. 

It embraces large bodies of choice pastoral and exten- 
sive tracts of rich farming lands, especially adapted for 
wheat-growing. Possessing a dry, sunny and equable cli- 
mate, protected from the coast fogs and winds, it is deserv- 
edly held in high estimation as a resort for consumptives 
and asthmatics. 

During the night we were awakened by the hideous 
howling of a band of coyotes, and in the morning they were 
seen retreating up the foot-hills. 

To the northwest lies 

The Eancho Calleguas, of 9998^ acres, granted to Gabriel 
Ruiz, in 1861, of which Juan Camarillo owns over 4000 
acres. There are several thousand acres of rich arable 
lands, about 3000 of which are under cultivation, including 
a fine vineyard. 

The Eancho Guadalasca, a magnificent estate of 30,593.85 
acres, granted in 1861 to Ysabel Yorba, stretches away for 
ten miles to the ocean. Though mainly adapted for grazing 
purposes, it contains over eight thousand acres of excellent 
arable land. 

On the sea shore, near Point Magu, are the remains of 
one of the most extensive Indian villages on the southern 
coast. 

Twenty-three thousand acres of the Guadalasca are 
owned by W. R. Broom, a wealthy Englishman, who re- 
sides at Santa Barbara. 

Descending the western slope of the mountain, we enter 
Pleasant Valley, a delightful section of country, surrounded 
by the mountains of the Conejo, Simi and Las Posas, and 
opening out into the Santa Clara Valley. 



VENTURA COUNTY. 



49 



On the northeast and west are situated 

The Great Ranchos Simi and Las Posas, comprising 
139,632f o 7 acres, of which upwards of 100,000 acres are 
owned by Andrew Gray, Esq., of Philadelphia. They em- 
brace large bodies of the choicest arable and grazing lands, 



TSgSfc 
W 




tens of thousands of acres of the richest valleys and mesas, 
producing abundantly all the various productions of semi- 
tropic California, and extensive rolling foot-hills, admirably 
adapted for vineyards and fruits. 



50 CALIFORNIA. 

The climate is unsurpassed in the world, water excellent, 
situation very healthy, picturesque and inviting. An abund- 
ant supply of artesian water is obtained here, a well on the 
Las Posas, sunk by Hon. T. R. Bard, being one of the most 
remarkable for force and flow of water on the southern 
coast. 

There are good school, church and market facilities. 
These most desirable lands are now offered upon very lib- 
eral terms. 

The Tapo Rancho, of 14,000 acres, well known for its 
old orchard and vineyard, and the excellence of its wines, 
lies in the northeastern portion of Simi. Two thousand 
acres of the same comprise a portion of the fine stock ranch 
of W. S. Chaffee, Esq. 

Proceeding toward Santa Paula, the road leads around 
the southeastern foot-hills of the Las Posas, through the 
village of 

SPRING VILLE, situated upon a triangular body of 
very rich and productive Government land lying between 
the Colonia and Las Posas, 13 miles from Ventura, and 12 
miles from Hueneme. 

The Rancho Santa Claea. Del Noete, of 18,988!^ 
acres, of which A. Schiappapietra owns 12,000 acres, is sit- 
uated west of Springville, the Santa Clara River forming its 
western boundary. It contains about 7000 acres of graz- 
ing lands — now supporting 15,000 sheep, 4500 acres of ex- 
cellent arable lands, fine orchards and vineyards, and sev- 
eral flowing artesian wells. 

Crossing the Santa Clara River, I camped upon 

The Rancho Santa Paula y Saticoy, at the Geeat Speings 
of Saticoy. — This ranch of 17,773^ acres, granted to John 
T. Davidson, and subsequently purchased by the great or- 
chardist. George G. Briggs, embraces the heart of the 
Santa Clara Valley, beautiful in situation, and unsurpassed 
in fertility and for the variety and excellence of its produc- 
tions. 



SANTA PAULA. 51 

Saticoy, a pleasant village, is situated near the Santa 
Clara River, nine miles from San Buenaventura. The 
Saticoy Springs are remarkable for their extent and flow, 
covering acres, and affording an inexhaustible supply of ex- 
cellent water. 

Close at hand is the beautiful home of Rev. S. T. Wells, 
a splendid farm of 600 acres, highly improved, bearing 
field, orchard and garden crops of exceptional excellence. 
Here I was shown a rose of less than two years growth, 36 
feet in length, and a tomato vine had been trailed 18 feet. 
This is the favored climate and location for the apricot and 
semi-tropic fruits. 

En route to Santa Paula, I passed through the rich tract 
known as 

The Orchard Ranch, owned by Samuel Edwards, of Santa 
Barbara, containing 1050 acres. 

Six miles up the narrowing valley, through a succession 
of well improved farms and orchards, and Blanchard's 100- 
acre orange grove, brought me to 

SANTA PAULA, the second largest town in the county. 
It is pleasantly situated, about a mile west of the Santa 
Clara River, and 16 miles from San Buenaventura. The 
Santa Paula Creek, a considerable mountain stream, flows 
through the place, affording a good water power, improved 
by the flouring mill of Blanch ard & Bradley, and an abund- 
ant water supply for all general purposes, and a large sur- 
plus for irrigation when required. 

Occupying a central position in the valley, surrounded 
by such great and various resources of agriculture, horti- 
culture, grazing, oil, honey, etc., it is one of the most prom- 
ising towns in this region. 

The Santa Paula oil wells, in the center of the great oil 
belt extending through the county, are only four miles 
distant. 

Blanchard & Bradley are the principal town proprietors, 
owning a tract of about 2000 acres. There are good relig- 
ious and educational advantages, and a comfortable hotel, 
C. N Baker proprietor. 



52 CALIFORNIA. 

Proceeding up the valley, we soon reached 
The Sespe Rancho, one of the finest in Southern Cali- 
fornia, and the scene of the most brutal and cowardly assas- 
sination ever perpetrated in these parts. Fifty years ago, 
when California was under Mexican rule, and its lands 
granted in immense tracts for grazing purposes to the most 
worthy citizens of that country, Carlos Antonio Carrillo re- 
ceived a deed in due form from Governor Don Figueroa, for 
the San Cullitano or Sespe Rancho, embracing all that por- 
tion of the fertile Santa Clara Valley, and the bordering 
foot-hills, extending up the valley from the Arroyo Piruc 
about five and a half leagues to the Arroyo Mupu, and across 
from mountain to mountain a league or more, a magnificent 
estate of 25,360,^ acres; and on the 17th of May, 1834, was 
placed in formal possession by the local alcade, by the cus- 
tomary pulling up of herbage, breaking of the branches of 
trees, etc., and entered thereon with his 700 head of cattle, 
horses and mules. 

After the acquisition of California by the United States, 
on the 18th day of April, 1853, Carlos Antonio Carrillo's 
title to the Sespe Rancho, as herein described, was ap- 
proved by the United States Land Commissioner. Soon 
after the grantee, Carrillo, died, and in 1854-5 the Rancho 
Cullitano or Sespe was sold by his administrators to Thos. 
Wallace More, Esq., of Santa Barbara, for the sum of 
$18,500 cash. December 29th, 1854, the U. S. District At- 
torney filed in the U. S. District Court a petition to review 
the decision of the Land Commissioner, making Thomas 
W. More the party appellee. This petition was based upon 
the claim that the original grant had been altered after de- 
livery and before possession was taken, from dos (two) to 
seis (six) square leagues, and upon a stipulation by Mr. More's 
attorney that such was the case, although made without the 
former's knowledge or consent, the U. S. District Court con- 
firmed the grant for two leagues June 23th, 1862. More's 
appeal from this decision was dismissed January 12, 1865, 
and in March, 1872, he received a patent for two tracts of 
the Sespe — SSSO&'o of the 25,350/$, acres purchased by him 
in good faith, and occupied continuously for the period of 
seventeen years. 



THE GREAT SESPE RAW HO. 53 

In the meantime, during the pendency of the appeal, 
settlers began to encroach upon the disputed lands of the 
Sespe Grant, by entering and taking squatters' claim there- 
on. More, firm in the conviction of his rightful possession 
of the original six league grant, of course resisted the in- 
vasion, but only by such lawful and justifiable means as 
were necessary for the protection of his rights. The law- 
less and desperate intruders therefore resolved to remove all 
opposition to their quiet possession by the cold-blooded 
murder of More. For this purpose they banded together, 
some seven in all, and led by one F. A. Sprague, armed with 
rifles and shot-guns, and masked, at midnight, surrounded 
More's premises, set fire to his barns, and when the de- 
fenseless man rushed out to rescue the stock, riddled his 
body with bullets. 

A few months previous to this most cruel and cowardly 
assassination, Hon. C. A. Storke, a young lawyer of excel- 
lent ability and reputation, had married Miss Mattie More, 
one of the four children of the murdered man, and upon 
him devolved the prosecution of the assassins and the man- 
agement of the estate. Sprague, the leader of the conspiracy 
and the principal actor of the horrible deed, was soon con- 
victed, and is now serving a life -sentence in the State 
Prison. 

The Sespe Ranch, as confirmed, was divided among the 
heirs in tracts of about 2520 acres each. Subsequently, 
Wallace H. More sold his portion to Hon. C. A. Storke, and 
Thos. R. More his to the great land-owner, Hon. Thos. R. 
Bard. 

Well watered by the Santa Clara River, which flows 
through it, and its tributary, the Sespe, the arable portion, 
comprising upwards of 8000 acres of the richest lands, pro- 
ducing everything, and capable of irrigation if required, 
affords a rare opportunity for those seeking homes in this 
favored region. 

The great oil belt extends the whole length of this 
rancho, at the base of the mountains on the west; a well 
bored 1500 feet in the Sespe Canon having yielded 100 bar- 
rels a day. Bordering the river there are 500 or 600 acres 



54 CALIFORNIA. 

of moist lands, known as the Cienega, affording one of the 
best hog ranges in the State. 

The Camulos Rancho, of 1500 acres — a portion of the 
San Francisco rancho — belonging to the heirs of Ignacio del 
Valle, and well known for its splendid and productive 
orchards and vineyards, and the excellent quality of its 
oranges and wines, lies eight miles up the valley from the 
Sespe. This wealthy Spanish family are also the owners of 

The Temiscal Eancho, comprising 13,339 acres of grazing 
lands, watered by Piru, a tributary of the Santa Clara, Next 
we enter 

The San Francisco Eancho, of 14,500 acres (3,000 
arable), which stretches away to the head of the valley, at 
Newhall, on the line of the Southern Pacific Eailway in Los 
Angeles county. A day's ride over the mountains, through 
the famous Soledad Pass, brought us to the borders of the 
plains of the Mojave. These wild, inaccessible mountain 
fastnesses have been the favorite rendezvous of the robbers 
and freebooters which, for a long time, infested the Southern 
coast — the notorious Vasquez, Joaquin Murieta, and other 
bandits. Early one morning, we saw a man suddenly emerge 
from one of its lonely canons, driving two horses at full 
speed. Reaching the next station, we learned that he was a 
robber fleeing with stolen horses from Santa Barbara. One 
night on the borders of the cactus waste of the desert of 
Mojave, and we recrossed the mountains via Elizabeth Lake, 
through the San Francisco Pass, one of the wildest gorges 
of the Pacific Slope. It cuts through 

An Extensive Gold Field comprising portions of Los 
Angeles, Kern and Yentura counties, which produced the 
first gold ever mined in California, over forty years ago, and 
has been worked ever since. The richest discoveries are in 
the Piru Mining District, in the northeastern portion of Ven- 
tura county, about 65 miles west of Newhall, in the Frazer 
Mountains, 6,000 feet above the sea. Here are quartz ledges 
from two to twelve feet in thickness, reported to have as- 
sayed from $12 to $130 gold per ton. Their inaccessibility 
and the robbery of a party engaged in their development by 



NEW JERUSALEM. 55 

banditti, has discouraged further operations there. On Piru 
Creek, which affords an abundant supply of water for mining 
purposes, there are several arastras now in successful opera- 
tion. Ledges of gold, silver, and galena have also been found 
there. Mexicans and others are now working placers at the 
fork of the Piru and Lockwood creeks. We met several 
parties of prospectors and practical miners who spoke con- 
fidently of the richness of this gold field, and have heard 
encouraging reports of discoveries made since our visit. 
Eeturning down the Santa Clara River, I recrossed it to 

The Great Eancho el Rio de Santa Clara o la Colonia, 
a magnificent domain of 44,883 30-100 acres, principally 
owned by Hon. Thomas R. Bard of Hueneme. It stretches 
for eight miles along the ocean, and back therefrom, in a 
triangular form, a distance of ten miles, comprising about 
35,000 acres of arable lands, the heart of the lower Santa 
Clara valley. Commanding a magnificent view of the en- 
circling mountain ranges, possessing one of the most health- 
ful and agreeable climates in the world, absolutely free from 
all malarial fevers and epidemic diseases, abundantly supplied 
with excellent water from mountain streams, artesian and 
other wells, producing, in great abundance, all the staple 
productions of both northern and southern latitudes, it 
affords a combination of advantages rarely found in any 
portion of the globe. It is already the site of three pleasant 
prosperous villages — Hueneme, New Jerusalem and Spring- 
ville — in the midst of well-tilled, productive and profitable 
farms. There is room here for hundreds of families to secure 
homes with these unsurpassed advantages, upon the most fa- 
vorable terms. 

NEW JERUSALEM. I shall never forget my first entry 
into New Jerusalem. 

Whoever has had his conveyance, however humble, kicked 
all to pieces, on a hot dusty day, by a vicious old mustang, 
compelling him to complete his day's journey on foot, will 
appreciate my feelings. I had purchased at Santa Barbara, 
a short time previous, from a pious-faced son of a quaker, the 
miserable brute which made me so much trouble. The man, of 



56 CALIFORNIA. 

course, was as silent as a sphynx about the animal's vicious 
qualities, though he knew perfectly well that he would buck 
and kick like a veritable horse fiend. I used him horseback 
for a while, and every morning went through with a series of 
violent equestrian performances, such as I venture were 
never witnessed at any circus, and at no small risk of limb 
and trial of patience. I then undertook to train him to a 
buck-board. I had found him in harness, and still had 
hopes of his usefulness. I harnessed him in, and strapped 
him down. He kicked everything clean and sat down on one of 
the shafts, breaking it in the middle, in about twenty seconds- 
I repaired damages, got new shafts, and stronger backstraps. 
Everything held this time, and, after a few desperate kicks, 
he started off most encouragingly, and we were getting along 
so well, that our second day's ride was nearly over, without 
mishap, when, all at once, the deceptive beast let loose and 
kicked off the shafts, twisted off one wheel, and turned 
around and surveyed the ruins with a most exasperating look 
of satisfaction. Let me here caution the traveler never to 
trust in a mustang of confirmed vicious habits, however well 
he may behave for a time. 

New Jerusalem is centrally situated in the lower Santa 
Clara Valley, on one of the richest portions of the great 
Rancho La Colonia. It commands an extensive and fine 
mountain view, embracing portions of the Coast, Guadalaska, 
and Conejo ranges, and the high, rolling hills of the Ex-Mis- 
sion and the Las Posas. The climate is most enjoyable — 
seldom too hot in summer, or too cold in winter. 

I here met a farmer, who, during the dry year of 1877, 
raised, by irrigation, 113 bushels of shelled corn per acre 
upon 20 acres. The grain harvest was in progress, the fields 
were alive with threshers, and the roads with six-horse teams 
drawing great loads of barley to 

HUENEME, the greatest barley shipping port south of 
San Francisco. The town is pleasantly situated immedi- 
ately on the sea-shore, 12 miles southeast of San Buenaven- 
tura. The mountains of the Coast Range loom up grandly 
on the northeast and west, and, sweeping the horizon sea- 



SAN BUENAVENTUBA. 57 

ward, the eye is arrested by the rugged outlines of the out- 
lying islands. 

The climate is very healthy, free from all malaria, cool 
and invigorating. An abundant supply of good artesian 
water is conducted in iron pipes throughout the place. 
Magnificent stretches of level farming lands of unsurpassed 
excellence extend from the sea-shore north, east and west 
from 10 to 20 miles. A revolving light welcomes the mari- 
ner into a safe roadstead, and to the best and most exten- 
sive wharf and warehouses on the southern coast. The 
wharf, very strongly built, from 18 to 40 feet in width, and 
800 feet long, reaches out to 30 feet of water. From the 
three great warehouses — A 66x315 feet, B 66x161, and C 
66x312 — a double-track railway, provided with 24 cars of 
100-sack capacity each, carries the grain to the loading 
vessels. These excellent shipping facilities are the prop- 
erty of the Hueneme Wharf and Lighter Company, of 
which Hon. Thomas R. Bard is the President and principal 
owner. 

Mr. Bard's elegant residence is situated in the midst of 
extensive and highly -improved grounds near the village. 
The owner and manager of the most important business in- 
terests in the county, distinguished for his integrity, gener- 
osity and public spirit, he occupies a foremost place among 
the leading men of the coast. 

The Rancho San Miguel, a splendid estate of 4693, ! |r (l 
acres, originally granted to Raymundo Olivas, fronting 
about four miles on the ocean, extends from the Santa 
Clara River to Ventura. Dixey W. Thompson, late mana- 
ger of "The Arlington" of Santa Barbara, owns 2346 acres 
of this ranch, and the heirs of Raymundo Olivas the other 
half. The whole is under high cultivation, producing great 
crops of barley, corn, beans, flax, hay, etc. 

SAN BUENAVENTURA, the principal town and coun- 
ty seat, is picturesquely situated on the sea-coast, near the 
San Buenaventura River, 311 miles from San Francisco. It 
is built around the base of the high hills of the Ex-Mission 



58 CALIFORNIA. 

Rancho, which protect it from the severity of the east winds. 
A fine large public school building stands out in bold relief 
upon a commanding terrace on the southward slope. The 
eye next rests upon the white-walled massive architecture of 
the old Mission, founded by the Catholic Fathers, the pio- 
neers of civilization on this coast, in 1782. Then the Coun- 
ty Court House, a substantial building, is seen among a 
cluster of the old Mission olive trees. Main Street, the 
principal business thoroughfare, encircles the foot-hills, 
and presents that interesting commingling of peoples and 
collection of habitations which forms such an attractive fea- 
ture of the American-Spanish towns of this coast. Large, 
well-built blocks of brick look down upon the humble one- 
story, tiled-roofed adobe of the original settler. The Schi- 
appapietra or Palace Hotel Block, Ayers' Hotel, Spears' 
Block, the Chaffee, Gilbert & Bonestel, and Einstein & Bern- 
heini stores, the Free Press, Brown's, and Library Building 
are all good substantial structures. 

The principle residence portion occupies the gentle slope 
between Main Street and the ocean, and the foot-hills and 
the San Buenaventura Elver. Hundreds of small, cosy, 
home-like cottages are half -concealed amidst the thick foli- 
age of the acacia, pepper, eucalyptus, fir, Monterey cypress 
and other handsome evergreens and ornamental and fruit- 
bearing trees. They are interspersed with a goodly number 
of large fine residences. Many of the gardens and grounds 
are laid out with excellent taste, and ornamented with the 
choicest varieties of flowers, plants and shrubs. In the old 
Mission orchard, adjoining the elegant residence of A. 
Schiappapietra, stands one of the largest palm trees in 
this country, set out by the Santa Maria Fathers nearly a 
century ago. 

Ventura Avenue, which extend for three and a half miles 
up the rich valley of the San Buenaventura, is one continu- 
ous garden and orchard, producing most bountifully the va- 
rious products of this highly favored country. Ventura is a 
modest place, which has never pressed its claims upon pub- 
lic attention beyond its merits. It contains a population of 
about 2000, chiefly American-born citizens, though there 



SAN BUENAVENTURA. 59 

is sufficient foreign element — Spanish, Italian, German, 
French, English, Scotch and Chinese — to give it quite a 
cosmopolitan spirit and aspect. The people are intelligent, 
hospitable and law-abiding. No place of its size upon the 
coast maintains in a more efficient state the various insti- 
tutions, organizations, societies and orders, either essen- 
tial to, or indicative of, a well-ordered and prosperous com- 
munity. 

It affords good religious, educational and social advan- 
tages. The various churches, an excellent graded school 
and a well filled and selected library are generously support- 
ed; also two weekly papers — the Free Press and the Ventura 
Signal. 

Excellent water is supplied from the San Buenaventura 
River, and distributed in iron pipes throughout the place by 
the Santa Clara Water Company. The Bank of Ventura, of 
which Hon. T. R. Bard is President, affords excellent bank- 
ing facilities. 

The traveling public will find good accommodations 
.and reasonable charges at the Palace Hotel, Wagner & Co., 
proprietors. 

Commodious warehouses, and a substantial wharf, 1200 
feet long, extending to 30 feet of water, and provided with 
a double-track freight railway, afford good shipping fa- 
cilities. 

Ventura has always done a commercial business dispro- 
portionate to its size. Visitors will be surprised to find 
here larger stocks of general merchandise than at any other 
place on the coast between San Francisco and Los An- 
geles. The firm of Chaffee, Gilbert & Bonestel carry over 
a $40,000 stock of every description of merchandise, which 
the trade of the county demands. The neighboring house 
of Einstein & Bernheim is about equally large, commanding 
an extensive trade. 

I am informed by Dr. Cephas L. Bard, a resident phy- 
sician, who has practiced medicine and surgery in the 
county very successfully for sixteen years, that the health of 
the city is excellent, being free from diphtheria, scarlet fever 
and other diseases so fatal to children. 



60 CALIFORNIA. 

From Ventura, I proceeded to the Ojai Valley, a distance 
of 15 miles. The high hills of 

The Ex-Mission Eancho, an immense estate of 49,822 
acres, of which Hon. J. M. Brooks is agent, originally 
granted to Manuel A. Rodriguez, stretch away on the right 
to Santa Paula. Following seven miles along the bank of 
the Ventura River, through a rich and beautiful valley of 
groves of oranges, apricots, plums, figs, walnuts, etc., for- 
merly a portion of 

The Rancho Canada Larga, comprising 6659 4-100 acres, 
granted to Joaquin Alvarado; then, eight miles further up 
a gradually ascending grade, crossing and recrossing a clear 
mountain stream, the San Antonio, under the grateful shade 
of the live oak and poplar, arched and festooned with the 
thick foliage of a luxuriant growth of grape and other vines, 
we emerge into the beautiful 

OJAI VALLEY, Ventura's famous health and pleasure 
resort. So far as my personal experience or knowledge ex- 
tends, there is no place in North America which contains 
greater natural advantages for a perfect sanitarium. These 
are mildness, equability and healthfulness of climate; excel- 
lence of water; grandeur and beauty of scenery; exemption 
from fogs, wind and dust; hot and cold sulphur springs; 
excellent trout-fishing and hunting; delightful camping 
grounds, and retirement from the exciting throngs of fash- 
ionable watering-places. It is charmingly situated at an 
elevation of about 1100 feet above the sea, surrounded and 
sheltered by the Santa Ynez and San Rafael ranges of moun- 
tains. 

Here, at the little village of 

NORDHOFF, centrally situated in the Lower Ojai, 
amidst groves of handsome live oak, fields of wheat, orchards 
and vineyards, commanding magnificent mountain views, are 
the popular health resorts of Frank P. Barrows and McKee 
& Gaily, the former well known as the "Ojai House" or 
the "Country Home," and the latter as "The Oak Glen 
Cottages." 



THE MATILIJA HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS. 61 

The Ojai Rancho, embracing the central portion of this 
most delightful valley, and containing 17,716 88-100 acres, 
was granted to Fernando Tico in 1868. 

The Santa Ana Eancho, of 21,522 21-100 acres, was con- 
firmed, in 1850, to Ayala and others. Together, they contain 
about 14,000 acres of arable lands of great fertility, and 
specially adapted to wheat raising, fruits and vineyards. 

Visitors to the Ojai, whether for health or pleasure, 
should go to 

THE MATILIJA HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS. They 
are situated in the wild, rock-bound canon of the head- 
waters of the Ventura River, about 1500 feet above the sea, 
and six miles from the village of Nordhoff. Some twenty in 
number, ranging in temperature from 35° to 150°, they are 
equal to any on the Southern Coast for the cure of rheuma- 
tism, dyspepsia, kidney disease, etc. Deer are numerous 
and small game plentiful, aud the trout-fishing excellent. 
Two visitors recently caught 200 trout here in a few hours. 
Mr. A. J. Wilcoxen, the proprietor, furnishes comfortable 
hotel and cottage accommodations at $8 per week. Mr. 
Robert Lyon's orchard and vineyard, well known for the ex- 
cellence of its fruits, is located a short distance below the 
springs. 

All the roads leading into the Ojai present a succession 
of views charmingly picturesque and interesting. The 15 
miles from Santa Paula to Nordhoff pass through the wild 
canon of the Santa Paula by the great oil wells and tanks, 
over remarkable deposits of asphaltum, past apiaries, fine 
orchards, and vineyards, through fields of grain and groves 
of live oak, by the humble cottage of the homesteader and 
the mansion house of the wealthy land owner. The 35 miles 
to Santa Barbara, by the Casitas Pass road, is equally de- 
lightful, for 15 miles winding among the rugged wooded 
hills, and over the handsome slopes of the Santa Ana and 
Rincon; then, through the beautiful valleys, which, with the 
glorious mountains, the blue sea, the islands, and the bright 
skies, compose the matchless views of Santa Barbara. 



62 CALIFORNIA. 

Returning to San Buenaventura, I followed the sea-coast 
30 miles to Santa Barbara, first through the 

Eancho de San Miguelito, of 8877^ acres, confirmed to 
Juan F. de Rodriguez in 1860, and owned by G. B. Taylor, 
chiefly mountainous, and suited only to grazing purposes; 
then for several miles under the high bluffs of 



The Rancho el Rincon, the road skirting the ocean- 
shore, washed by every high tide. This grant, of 4459J| 
acres, made to Theodore Arellanes, 2200 acres of which are 
owned by M. H. Biggs, of South America, is mainly rolling 
foot-hills, specially adapted for stock-raising, with arable 
mesas, slopes and benches of limited extent. 

Point Rincon is on the boundary line between Ventura 
and Santa Barbara counties. 

That portion of Southern California, known as 

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY, lies between latitudes 
34 u and 35°, and extends from the mouth of the Santa Maria 
River, near Point Sal, south and east along the Pacific 
Coast to Point Rincon, a distance of about 106 miles. 
From the mouth of the Santa Maria River to Point Arguel- 
lo, 27 miles, its shore line runs nearly south; from thence 
to Point Concepcion, 14 miles, southeast, from which point 
it bears almost due east 65 miles to Point Rincon. 

The Pacific Ocean bounds it on the south and west, Ven- 
tura County on the east and San Luis Obispo County on the 
north. Three mountain ranges cross the county in a north- 
westerly and westerly direction; these are the Sierra Madre 
Del Sur in the northeastern portion, the San Rafael Moun- 
tains in the central, while along the immediate coast, distant 
only from two to six miles from it, extends the Santa Ynez 
Range. The average elevation of the Coast Range is about 
2500 feet, rising at some points to over 3500 feet. The 
mountains increase in altitude as we recede from the coast, 
the San Rafael overlooking the Santa Ynez, and the Sierra 
Madre both ranges. 

The Santa Maria and Santa Ynez are its principal rivers, 
the former being the longest, and carrying the greatest vol- 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 63 

time of water. It rises in the Sierra Madre Del Sur and 
San Rafael mountains, draining the south slope of the 
former by its north branch, the Cuyama, and the northern 
slope of the latter by the Sisquoc, and flows into the Pacific 
about seven miles north of Point Sal. The Tepusque, Los 
Encinos, Canoncito, Agua Sacado and Potrero are small 
tributaries. The Santa Ynez River rises in Ventura County, 
in the Santa Ynez Mountains, and flowing westerly, drains 
the south slope of the San Rafael and the north slope of the 
Santa Ynez Range, reaching the ocean five miles south of 
Purissima. Its feeders are the Sal Si Puedes, Zaca, Alisal, 
Alamo, Pintado, Santa Cruz, Caballado, Los Laureles, In- 
dio, Mono, Agua Calieute, and a few other small streams. 
The south slope of the Coast Mountains waters the valleys 
below by the Rincon, Carpinteria, Santa Monica, Paderon, 
Toro, Ficay, Hot Springs, Cold Stream, Mission Creek, 
Maria Ygnacia, San Jose, San Pedro, Carneros, Tocolote, 
Armitas, Tocolotito, Dos Pueblos, Las Varas, El Capitan, 
Refugio, Hondo, Costa, Molinos, Las Cruces, Agua Calien- 
te, Santa Anita, San Augustine, Rodeo, Canada Honda, and 
the San Antonio and Casmalia creeks. Of these mountain 
streams, the Rincoi], Carpinteria, Mission, El Capitan and 
Dos Pueblos are the most important, flowing to the sea in 
ordinary years, while most of the others partially or wholly 
disappear during the dry season, soon after leaving the foot- 
hills. There are several small lakes and lagoons in the coun- 
ty, the Guadalupe and the Zaca being the largest. The Santa 
Maria, Santa Ynez, Los Alamos, Cuyama, Monteciio and 
Carpinteria are its principal valleys. 

There are two good wagon passes over the Santa Ynez 
Mountains, the San Marcos and Gaviota, and several horse- 
back trails. The San Marcos Pass is reached by following- 
up the San Jose, descending the mountains on the north 
side, along the Los Laureles, by what is known as the Fre- 
mont Trail. Its greatest elevation is 2240 feet. The 
Gaviota Pass lies along the Las Cruces, crossing the moun- 
tain on the old Spanish grant by that name, at an altitude 
of only 1500 feet. A horseback trail starts from the foot of 
Montecito Valley, follows up the Ficay to its head, and 



64 CALIFORNIA. 

then bears a little northeast, across Section 34, T. 5, to 
the Najalayegua Canon. Another crosses the mountain by 
Cold Stream Canon, near the head of this valley. A good 
trail also ascends the Pedregosa, the east branch of Mis- 
sion Creek, to near its sources, where it divides, the right 
fork leading eastward along the summit to Section 30, T. 5, 
and then north down the mountain ; the left fork runs 
northwesterly over the divide, and then north toward the 
Santa Ynez River. 

The county comprises an area of nearly 2,000,000 acres, 
one-fourth of which it is estimated are arable lands. That 
portion lying north of the Coast Eange is mainly suited 
only to grazing purposes, though there are considerable 
tracts in the upper valleys of the Santa Ynez and Cuyama 
which are being successfully cultivated. Over 300,000 acres 
lying between the San Rafael and the Sierra Madre moun- 
tains are still unsurveyed. Nearly all that portion lying 
west of the San Kafael and south of the Santa Ynez Moun- 
tains was granted by the Mexican Government, in extensive 
tracts of from one league, or 4438 acres, to eleven leagues, 
or 48,420 acres, without other consideration than actual 
occupancy. 

During the last thirty years Americans have succeeded to 
most of these lordly domains, and obtained patents therefor 
from the United States Government. 

The Los Dos Pueblos, containing 15,500 acres (patented) ' 
is owned by Col. W. W. Hollister, E. Cooper and others; 
8000 acres of the Nuestra Seiiora del Refugio, containing 
26,529 acres (patented) by Thos. B. Dibblee and Albert 
Dibblee; La Espada containing 15,000 acres being a part of 
Punta de la Concepcion (patented), comprising 24,992 acres, 
by Col. W. W. Hollister; the Sal Si Puedes (patented), 6650 
acres, by Col. W. W. Hollister; 6000 acres of Las Cruces 
by Col. W. W. Hollister, Thos. B. Dibblee and Albert Dib- 
blee; 23,000 acres of the San Julian (patented), by Col. W. 
W. Hollister, and 25,000 acres by Thos. B. Dibblee and 
Albert Dibblee; the Lompoc (patented), containing 42,085 
acres, has been subdivided and is owned by the Lompoc 
colony and others; the Santa Rosa (patented), containing 



SANTA BARBARA COUNTY. 65 

16,300 acres, is owned by J. W. Cooper; La Zaca (pat.), 
4485 acres, and Correl de Quati (pat.), 13,322 acres, by Don 
Gaspar Orena; San Carlos de Jonata (pat.), 26,634 acres, 
by K. T. Buell. The Los Pinos, 35,499 acres, be- 
longs to the Catholic Church. H. & W. Pierce are the 
owners of the San Marcos, containing 35,573 acres, of the 
Tequepis, 9819 acres, and also of Nojoqui. The Los Almos 
(pat.), comprising 48,803 acres, is owned by Dr. J. B. Shaw, 
Don Gaspar Oreha, and others; the Todos Santos y San 
Antonio (pat.), 20,772 acres, by H. M. Newhall and others; 
the Lomas de Purificacion (pat.), containing 13,541 acres, 
by Capt. T. W. Moore; the Punta de Laguna (pat.), 26,648 
acres, by T. B. Jamison et al.; Guadalupe (pat.), by LePtoy 
et al.; Tinaquaic (pat ), 8847, by W. Foxen et al.; Sisquoc, 
35,485, by Hayden et al.; Suey, by Newhall; Jesus Maria 
(j>at.), 42,184, aud Casmalia (pat.), 8841, by Benj. Bur- 
ton, and the Los Prietos y Najalayegua (pat.), containing 
48,728 acres, is owned by Judge Charles E. Huse. 

These great estates have been almost exclusively devoted 
to grazing purposes down to 1870, the stock of a, single pro- 
prietor sometimes comprising 70,000 sheep alone. Col. W. 
W. Hollister, the pioneer and most extensive sheep raiser 
of the Pacific coast region, aud his associates, Mr. Thomas 
B. Dibblee and Mr. Albert Dibblee, have at present about 
60,000 sheep upon their ranchos. During the last ten 
years, agriculture and horticulture, though laboring under 
the disadvantages of distant markets, has become the 
most important industry of the people. The soil is gen- 
erally a fine rich loam, even to the tops of the highest 
hills, producing bountifully nearly all the crops common to 
both northern and southern latitudes, including semi-trop- 
ical fruits in great variety. The assessed valuation of all 
the property in the county for 1870 was $5,487,053. The 
county was organized in 1850, and contains a population of 
about 10,000, The principal towns and settlements are 
Santa Barbara, Monteeito, Carpinteria, Guadalupe, Central 
City, Lompoc, La Gaviota, La Graciosa, Las Cruces, La 
Patera, Goleta, and Santa Ynez. Of these, Santa Barbara 
has become justly celebrated as a health and pleasure resort 
throughout the world. 



66 



OALIFOBNIA. 



CAEPINTEEIA. Leaving Point Eincon, we soon over- 
look the beautiful and fertile valley of Carpinteria. It ex- 
tends about six miles along the ocean, and back from one 
and one-half miles to the foothills of the Santa Ynez moun- 
tains; containing upwards of ten thousand acres of arable 
lands. It possesses an exceedingly rich, warm soil, pro- 
ducing without irrigation bountiful crops of barley, lima 




beans, flax, potatoes, corn, etc., and all garden vegetables. 
It is also excellently adapted to fruit and nut growing, con- 
taining the most productive orchards in the eastern portion 
of the county. Hon. Eussell Heath, a Santa Barbara pioneer 
of 1852, and the first American settler in Carpinteria, owns 
175 acres in the heart of the valley. He first introduced 



CARPENTERIA. 67 

walnuts and apricots here, and now has the finest and most 
valuable walnut grove in Southern California. It produces 
yearly about one thousand bushels of walnuts, worth from eight 
to twelve cents per pound, and he informs me that twenty- 
year-old trees are increasing their yield nearly one-third 
every year. Adjoining Mr. Heath, Mr. O. N. Cadwell, a 
prominent horticulturist, has transformed 30 acres of wil- 
lows, briars, alder, poison oak and cactus into a very fruitful 
and valuable orchard of apricots, apples, pears, plums, 
quinces, peaches, nectarines, figs, oranges, lemons, limes, 
walnuts, etc., etc. The soil is fine, rich sandy loam, the 
situation sheltered and warm, the cultivation perfect. Nearly 
all the fruits mentioned do well, but the apricots grown here 
are distinguished for their excellence. Many of the trees, 
especially the apricot, pear and apple, threaten self-destruc- 
tion by overbearing the present season. The gross annual 
product of this orchard is about $3,000, but with the im- 
proved processes for drying and canning, the fruit now 
being introduced will soon considerably exceed that amount. 
Mr. E. J. Knapp, his neighbor, whose extensive orchard 
comprises about 3000 trees, principally apricots, plums, 
apple, pears and walnuts, has made a marked success in 
drying prunes from the French plum, which compare favor- 
ably with the best imported. 

The rural home of H. C. Ford, the well-known artist, is 
the flower garden of the valley, a gem of floral beauty. The 
families of Blood, Hall, Pierce, Thurmond, Knight, Fish, 
Franklin, Shields, Ballard, Nidever, Smith, Callis, Benn, 
Cravens, and Lambert, are among its other principal resi- 
dents. 

There is considerable small game, and an occasional deer 
and bear among the foothills. Camping, one November 
night, on the side of the mountain overlooking the valley, 
two wild animals, about the size of wolves — which, I pre- 
sume, they were— came charging through the chapparal 
toward my tent. I had just rolled into my blankets, when the 
noise of their approach brought me to the entrance, appar- 
ently just in time to prevent them from jumping in. They 
dashed up the mountain at a rate which showed that I was 



68 CALIFOBNIA. 

not the game they were after, but that I had taken possession 
of their run-way since their last hunt. The neighboring 
settlers were very hospitable, bringing me a feast of venison 
and choice wild honey. 

The shipping point of Carpinteria is a substantial wharf, 
situated in a little semi-circle cove near the head of the 
valley. It extends about 800 feet to sixteen feet of water at 
low tide; is protected by the mountains and hills on the north 
and west, and from the southeast winds by a strong sea kelp 
and a projecting reef. A good depth of water near shore, 
and a clayey bottom, afford a safe anchorage. Mr. Smith, 
the owner, estimated his shipments, from the products of 
this little valley for 1881, at two thousand tons, comprising 
twelve hundred tons of lima beans alone. 

From Carpinteria, I descended Ortega Hill to 

MONTECITO. It is a very warm, dry, beautiful little 
valley, containing upwards of 6,000 acres of orchard and 
vine-lands, chiefly occupied in small tracts. Oranges, lemons, 
figs, apricots, and many other semi-tropic fruits are success- 
fully grown. It is supplied with excellent water from the 
Ficay, Cold Spring and Hot Spring, small mountain streams. 
It contains a population of 400 Americans and 200 Spaniards. 
Its climate is very equable, and much resorted to by con- 
sumptives. Judge Hall, Col. Hayne, Dr. Doremus, Messrs. 
Eddy, Bond, Thompson, Crooks, Stafford, Johnstone, Swift, 
Doulton, and Bristol are among its best known residents. In 
1874, I camped, for a few days, near the mouth of the Hot 
Springs Canon. One evening, I heard the sound of music 
a little way off. Guided by it, I soon reached the entrance 
of the Big Grapevine enclosure, and accepting a cordial in- 
vitation to enter, found myself in the midst of a genuine 
Spanish fandango, under the wide-spreading branches of 
that enormous vine. I remained for an hour, an interested 
observer of the novel and hilarious scene. Ten or a dozen 
couple at once waltzed to well-played Spanish airs, until it 
seemed as if perpetual motion had finally been discovered. 
One young Spaniard attested the genuineness of his affections 
for a pretty Senorita, by breaking over her head of raven 



MONTECITO. 69 

black hair sixteen cascarones — eggs filled with fine cut tinsel 
paper of various colors — which glistened like a shower of 
diamonds. She reciprocated the attention by breaking some 
half a dozen over his head. They cost twenty-five cents 
each — rather expensive for a mere flirtation. 

Montecito has an ocean frontage of about three miles. 
The Matanzas property, so called from having furnished the 




BIG GRAPE VINE OF MONTECITO. 

site of extensive slaughter and tallow-trying works in the 
dry years of 1862-3, lies near the Southeastern extremity. 
When death, by starvation, seems inevitable, cattle and 
sheep are killed by the tens of thousands, their hides and 
pelts stripped off, and their bodies thrown into huge vats, 
and what tallow remains extracted. Camping here in 1877, 



70 CALIFORNIA. 

I found excellent water, near the dry bed of a small arroyo, 
at a depth of twelve feet, and less than twenty rods from the 
ocean. A little way off was an abandoned well of worthless 
brackish water. I was advised where to dig by an old pio- 
neer, familiar with the underflow of the mountain springs. I 
also discovered a brace of wild cats, which follow down the 
arroyo beds from the mountains at night and carry off the 
settler's fowl, and sometimes the young of other domestic 
animals. They startled me from a sound sleep at midnight, 
by breaking out into an alarmingly loud and desperate chorus 
close to my tent. I seized an old army sabre, the only weapon 
at hand, and sallied out; they did not wait for an encounter, 
which was doubtless fortunate for me, but retreated rapidly 
toward the mountains. This valley was formerly thickly 
covered with live oak, and considerable still remains, especi- 
ally on the Matanzas tract, though it is being rapidly cut for 
fuel, now worth $7 per cord at Santa Barbara. Several years 
ago, an unsuccessful attempt was made to obtain oil just 
below the Matanzas, and also afc the foothills three miles 
back. The oil is there in such abundance that it flows into 
the ocean from the shore at several points, and will doubt- 
less be reached, in paying quantities, when sufficient capital, 
energy and experience undertake the work. 

THE SANTA BAEBAEA HOT SULPHUB SPEINGS 

are situated in a picturesque canon, at an elevation of 1,500 
feet above and three miles distant from the ocean, and six 
miles from Santa Barbara. They comprise some twenty in 
number, ranging in temperature from 60° to 120°, and are 
considered very efficacious for the healing of many diseases. 
Their best endorsement, perhaps, is, that they are not only 
much resorted to by people from abroad, but also by the 
resident population. I have known persons to be greatly 
benefited by their use, especially rheumatics. Tourists 
should visit them for the extended and magnificent view 
which they afford of the beautiful valleys of Santa Barbara, 
Montecito and Carpinteria, and of the ocean and the islands, 
twenty miles away. 



SANTA BARBARA. 71 

Late the tenth clay out from San Diego, riding Q5 miles 
in one clay, I entered the beautiful city of 

SANTA BARBARA, the great health and pleasure resort 
of Southern California. Santa Barbara is situated on the sea 
coast, in the southern part of the county, 288 miles southeast 
of San Francisco. It is built upon a beautiful slope, gradu- 
ally rising from the ocean back for a distance of one mile and 
a-half to the foothills of the Santa Ynez Mountains, which, 
rising to an elevation of over 3, 500 feet, encircle it about on 
the north and east. It is further enclosed by a range of hills 
some 200 feet in height, extending from the sea-shore along 
its western suburbs. These are the immediate surroundings 
which nature has bestowed upon this singularly favored spot. 
Fifty miles west of Santa Barbara, at Point Concepcion, as 
We have already seen, the coast line turns from a southeast- 
erly course, and runs almost due east to Point Rincon. 

About twenty miles to the southward the islands of Ana- 
capa, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, and San Miguel rise to an 
elevation of over 2500 feet. With the ocean on the south to 
moderate the heat of Summer and the cold of Winter, the 
mountains and foothills on the north and east and west to 
protect it from the severity of the north winds; with Point 
Concepcion standing guard against the cold northwest winds 
and currents, warding them off thirty miles at sea, and the 
overlapping islands of Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz to shelter 
it from the force of the southwest ocean winds, Santa Bar- 
bara has deservedly acquired a world-wide reputation for its 
mild, equable, and salubrious climate. And the same causes, 
the great natural storm barriers by land and sea, which 
secure such exemption from sudden changes of temperature, 
afford also the most perfect land-locked roadstead from 
Alaska to San Diego. When the ocean storm-swells carry 
away the wharfs at other points along the coast, they stand 
secure here. I have sailed from San Francisco clown the 
coast several times, encountering strong winds and rough 
seas until past Point Concepcion, when the winds and waves 
subsided, and the sea became as suddenly calm as if obey- 
ing some omnipotent command, "Peace, be still." This 



72 



CALIFORNIA. 



part of the coast was doubtless the favorite abode of the 
aboriginal tribes in pre-historic times. Cabrillo, a Portu- 
guese navigator, found them here in large numbers more 
than 340 years ago. The Smithsonian Institute contains an 
exceedingly interesting collection of the relics of these 
people, exhumed from the numerous burying places found 
along the sea-shore and on the opposite islands. The Span- 




ish priests established a Mission here nearly one hundred 
years ago, for the conversion of the natives to the Catholic 
faith. This was the beginning of its occupation by white 
men. Thirty years later, in 1825, Santa Barbara contained 
about a thousand people, chiefly Californians, and Indians 
attached to the Mission. During the succeeding forty years 




?HE ARLINGTON HOTEL is the best <f ^ '^ ass P^^nage The House occupies 
ole square of five acres of ground, which | allds > The A ^ in * to " ^J^u BarW haSno 
I on the Pacific Coast. Horse care lead c W - N< BOWLES, Manager. 




a JHE ARLINGTON HOTEL is the best appointed hotel in California outside of San F •anersco being de gne 1 and JJf^^'^L^ The Arlington of Santa Barbara has no 
'"hole square of live acres of ground, which is superbly laid ont in lawns, flower gardens etc ^b » del^hthil home lamii w< N _ C0WLES , Manager. 

e 1«alon the Pacific Coast. Horse cars lead directly to the ocean beach where excellent sea bathmg can be had. 



SANTA BARBARA. 73 

some seventy-five Americans settled here, but as late as 18G9 
the Spanish and native Californian element largely predom- 
inated. Then followed a considerable influx of people from 
the Eastern and Northern States, rapidly Americanizing the 
place, and building up the Santa Barbara of to-day. It now 
contains a population of about 3500 — 2000 Americans and 
1500 of other nationalities, chiefly Spanish and Californians. 
It is regularly laid out into 360 blocks, 450 feet square, with 
streets from 60 to 80 feet in width. A good supply of moun- 
tain water is distributed in iron pipes throughout the city. 
The great white face of the old Mission— its first and most 
interesting building, from its elevation at the foothills 340 
feet above the ocean, though in a decaying condition, is 
still the most conspicuous landmark. The church spires, 
Colleges and High School buildings, Theater, Court 
House, Cook's Clock building, The Arlington, and 
prominent business blocks next engage the attention. 
State street is the principal business thoroughfare. It 
extends from the beach back to the foothills, is lighted with 
gas, well sprinkled, and traversed every few minutes by 
horse-cars as far as The Arlington. Very good blocks and 
buildings of brick and stone rise here and there among rows 
of cheap one-story structures, and the low tiled-roofed adobes 
of the original inhabitants. Encircling this business center, 
and extending from the beach to the foothills, are the homes 
of its citizens. On the higher grounds in the western sub- 
urbs are grouped many fine residences and cosy cottages of 
the principal residents. The homes of Don Gaspar Oreiia, 
John Edwards, J. W. Calkins and Joseph Cooper are es- 
pecially noticeable, both for the elegance of their villas in 
design and finish, and the great beauty of their perfectly 
kept lawns and gardens. In their midst, occupying a whole 
block, surrounded by a beautiful lawn, tastefully ornamented 
with a choice selection of evergreens and semi-tropic plants 
and flowers, with fountains playing and tame deer feeding, 
stands 

THE ARLINGTON, a magnificent hotel establishment, 
with broad piazzas and stairways, capacious and richly fur- 



74 



CALIFORNIA. 



nished apartments, extensive dining hall, fine reading and 
billiard rooms and telegraph office, all under the able man- 
agement of W. N. Cowles. 

Col. Hollister, the owner, has just completed on the 
adjoining blocks The Ellwood, a magnificent brick addi- 
tion, with broad verandas, large, sunny, elegantly furnished 
rooms, to accommodate the overflow of The Arlington, and 
those who desire to live on the European plan. 

Frequently the guests are afforded a special treat by the 
presence of the Colonel, a most affable and whole-souled 




THE ARLINGTON. 

COWLES. - MANAGER 



gentleman, the proprietor of great estates, the main depend- 
ence of many important local interests and generous sup- 
porter of worthy public enterprises. 

Mr. Thomas B. Dibblee, an extensive and wealthy land- 
owner, is building the most magnificent residence on the 
Southern Coast upon the headland by the seaside. 

A little to the south, fronting the ocean, along an excel- 
lent shore for bathing, is situated the Burton Mound 
property, which comprises a tract of some 25 acres, exceed- 



SANTA BARBARA. 75 

ingly well adapted for tlie site of an extensive watering es- 
tablishment. 

Gradually sloping on all sides from a central elevation of 
about 40 feet above the ocean, it is covered with an abund- 
ant growth of pepper, acacia and olive trees, and plants and 
flowers in great variety. Flowing springs of excellent 
water — one highly charged with sulphur — burst forth from 
its surface. 

One block east of this valuable property, at the foot of 
State Street, is situated Steams' Wharf, built in 1873, by 
John P. Stearns, one of the most public-spirited and influ- 
ential citizens. It is from 20 to 80 feet in width, extending 
into the ocean about 2,000 feet, reaching a depth of 20 feet 
of water, and is one of the most accessible, substantial and 
safe landings on the entire coast. 

Mayor Fernald's handsome residence and beautiful 
grounds are a few blocks distant. 

Santa Barbara contains a large number of intelligent, 
cultured and refined people of the best New England type. 
The various religious denominations, the Congregational, 
Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, Episcopalian and Cath- 
olic, each have their respective houses of worship, and sus- 
tain regular services. Educational matters receive that atten- 
tion which their importance demands. 

The City Public Schools are provided with suitable 
buildings and an efficient corps of instructors. The St. 
Yincent School, under the supervision of the Sisters of 
Charity, furnishes good educationat facilities for those of 
their faith. 

There are orders of Good Templars, Masons, Odd Fel- 
lows, United Workingmen, etc. The Odd Fellows' Library 
and Beading Boom, well supplied with standard works and 
current periodicals of the day, is free to all visitors. Dis- 
tinguished lecturers and artists occasionally come this way, 
although the residents are abundantly able, from their own re- 
sources, to not only entertain themselves, but strangers 
also. I have attended during the past winter three exhibi- 
tions, which afforded me much interest and pleasure, and a 
new revelation of their general intelligence and culture, and 



76 CALIFORNIA. 

of the variety and excellence of the productions of their 
adopted home. 

For an Art Loan Exhibition they brought from their 
own homes over 1500 articles of bric-a-brac, curios, paint- 
ings, porcelain, China, unique Indian relics, gold and silver, 
laces, embroideries, etc., rich, rare and costly. 

Their Citrus Fair and Flower Shows were most surprising 
displays of the variety and excellence of the semi-tropic 
fruits, and great wealth and beauty of the flower world, as 
represented from their own orchards and gardens. 

Life on the streets is more cosmopolitan and interesting 
than the number of inhabitants indicates. Travelers from 
all parts of the world sojourn here. The customs and man- 
ners of all the leading nationalities may be observed ; 
Protestants, Catholics, Jews and the "Heathen Chinee" 
mix in friendly intercourse. 

The native Californians dash by as if riding a steeple 
chase, with the young Americans not far behind. Graceful- 
riding, handsome ladies gallop fearlessly along; phaetons, 
English dog-carts, buck-boards, elegant carriages and 
omnibuses, country wagons of various make and in all 
states of repair, conveying all sorts of people, drawn by 
all kinds and conditions of draught animals, file past. Nearly 
everybody rides. Horses are still cheap, and their keeping 
inexpensive. 

Biding, bathing, boating, fishing, hunting and camping- 
out afford excellent opportunities for healthful and enjoy- 
able recreation for all classes of visitors. The natural 
advantages for safe, enjoyable and beneficial bathing are 
unsurpassed on this coast. 

The temperature of the sea water off Santa Barbara is 
about 60° in winter and 64° in summer; the shore slopes 
gradually, with a smooth, even bottom ; there is no under- 
tow, no sharks, nor rough, irregular surf to alarm the 
timid or the invalid. From my cottage, near the beach, I 
have seen people bathing throughout the winter. 

The ocean drive is also a very fine one, extend- 
ing for some six miles one unbroken, level stretch, over 
the clean, white sand, free from all dust, in the cool, sweet 
and wholesome sea air. 



SANTA BARBABA. 77 

EXCURSIONS FROM SANTA BARBARA. 

Santa Barbara is becoming more and more the 
initial point of excursions to all parts of Southern California. 
There are probably now at this writing, the 4th of June, 
twenty -five parties, residents and sojourners of Santa Bar- 
bara, camping out for health, hunting, fishing and recreation 
in the Southern Coast Counties, including two or three en 
route for the famous Yosemite Valley, 488 miles distant. I 
meet them wherever I go — in the mountains, in the valleys, 
by the sea-shore, at the liot springs, in parties of from two 
to a dozen, in pursuit of some of these things. They are 
seldom disappointed. There is health for the invalid, game 
for the hunter, glorious scenery for the tourist, on every 
hand; the climate is the most favorable in the world for field 
life. Camping outfits are inexpensive — good riding horses 
range from $40 to $75; a good pony team, harness and wagon 
can be bought for from $200 to $250; a muslin wall-tent, 9x12, 
will cost about $10. Livery horses in the saddle are fur- 
nished for from $1 to $2 per day; single teams from $3 to $4, 
and double team, with driver, from $4 to $6 a day. The 
native California horses are unsurpassed for the saddle, of 
great endurance, swift and sure-footed. I recently met 
Jose Gutierrez driving a band of fine specimens to New- 
hall, on the Southern Pacific Railroad, from whence they 
will be shipped to Boston, for the stable of Mr. J. Malcolm 
Forbes. He says that these animals are inferior to their 
choice stock prior to Americau occupation; that his brother 
Antonio, 28 years ago, rode from Santa Barbara to Los An- 
geles — to see his sweetheart -a distance of 110 miles, in 
eleven hours and a half; and that he, on a similar mission of 
love, rode from Los Alamos to Santa Barbara, over 20 
leagues, or 64 miles, in six hours. Gaspar de la Guerra 
once rode from Santa Barbara to Ventura, a distance of 30 
miles, in one hour and fifty-nine minutes. These wonderful 
feats of fast riding seem almost incredible, but are well 
vouched for. Many of their horses were sired by the best 
imported blood, which, for generations, had been trained 
exclusively for the saddle. These are instances of the possi- 
bilities of fast riding, which my readers are not likely to at- 



78 CALIFORNIA. 

tempt, either for love or money, or for any other purpose. 
Five or six miles an hour is fast enough for all ordinary oc- 
casions, and especially for health or pleasure. Those who 
hire will find good safe horses and teams at McPhail's stables, 
opposite the Morris House, at the Occident, G. W. Leland's, 
and also at N. 0. Pitcher's on Garden street, opposite the 
Plaza, who makes a specialty of furnishing gentle saddle 
horses, and cheap rides around town. Where to go and how 
to go, are so peculiarly questions of personal taste, want or 
necessity, that it is very presumptuous to offer any specific 
advice in the matter. 

Among the short rides and drives in and near the city, 
those along the sea-shore, upon the mesa on the west, to 
Point of Rocks, and the Light House, to the Mission, to Dr. 
Finch's, on the summit of the nearest foothills on the north- 
east; up the Mission Canon two and one-half miles to the 
pleasant mountain home of W. D. Squiers, 1085 feet above 
the ocean; seven miles to Cathedral Oaks; seven and one- 
half miles to Indian Orchard; eight miles toBartlett Canon; 
four miles to the charming valley and homes of Montecito; 
six miles to the Hot Sulphur Springs, deserve mention. A 
drive through the beautiful valley of Carpinteria will afford 
a very eDJoyable day's excursion. The American Restaurant, 
at the post-office, near the foot of the valley, Mrs. C. Rich- 
ardson, proprietress, provides good meals for excursionists, 
at all hours. Mr. E. Dailey, living at Point Rincon, about 
four miles beyond,also entertains travelers. There is excellent 
fishing at Santa Rosa Island, in the Santa Barbara Channel) 
opposite the city, and very good at times, from Stearns' 
Wharf. There are frequent excursions by sailing vessels, 
and occasionally by steamer, to the islands of Santa Rosa, 
and Santa Cruz. For trout fishing, and larger game than 
rabbit, quail, pigeons, and water-fowl, cross the Santa Ynez 
mountains by the Montecito or Mission trails, or the San 
Marcos toll road, into the upper valley of the Santa Ynez 
River. This stream abounds with trout; and deer, mountain 
sheep, mountain lion, wild cats and bear are common in the 
valley foothills. 

If possible, do not fail to visit the Ojai Valley in Ventura 



EXCURSIONS FROM SANTA BARBARA. 79 

county, 38 miles from Santa Barbara via the Casitas Pass 
road. Handsome live oak parks, blossoming orchards, fields 
of waving grain and green pastures, clear mountain streams, 
the brightest skies, balmiest atmosphere, and the glorious 
views of the surrounding mountains, make it one of the 
most beautiful and enjoyable spots in the world. 

Santa Barbara is at present 85 miles from the nearest 
railroad station — Newhall, on the Southern Pacific — but I 
have no doubt that this beautiful coast country, unequalled 
in climate, and so rich in natural resources, will event- 
ually become the favorite rail route of travel between the 
Atlantic sea-board and San Francisco, via the Southern 
railways. 

Besides the regular U. S. mail stages up and down the 
coast, Ruiz runs a daily stage to and from Ventura; fare, $2. 

EXCURSIONS FROM SANTA BARBARA. 

Trip No. 1. — From Santa Barbara to the Mountain Glen Hot 
Springs. Bound trip, 50 Miles. 

THE MOUNTAIN GLEN HOT SPEINGS, owned by 
Mr. T. H. Hough, are situated in the Santa Ynez Eange of 
Mountains, in Santa Barbara County, about 25 miles north- 
west of Santa Barbara. The property embraces a very pic- 
turesque tract of 140 acres, and though but little improved 
at present, is a favorite resort for campers, who pay a small 
sum, not exceeding fifty cents a day, for parties of four or 
five, for the use of the grounds and baths. 

On the 2d of May, 1881, I started thence from Santa 
Barbara, mounted on a strong, active mule, provided with 
two blankets and two days' rations. For seven miles the 
road leads westerly through the rich and pleasant valley of 
Goleta. The farmers were in the midst of hay harvest, and 
preparing the ground for bean planting. 

Well-kept orchards of almonds, plums, pears, apples, 
peaches, apricots, etc., were full of green fruit and blos- 
soms. The green fields looked promising; fine fat cows 
were feeding along the roadside upon a luxuriant growth of 
alfileria. 



80 CALIFORNIA. 

Ato Goleta the road turns at right angles toward the foot- 
hills, two miles distant, over a good wagon road, past sev- 
eral small and well tilled farms. 

Turning to the left, and crossing the San Jose, a small, 
clear stream, and opening the right hand gate, the ascent of 
the mountain begins. 

This is the San Marcos Pass toll road, built about thirteen 
years ago by Flint & Bixby, mail contractors, at an expense 
of $40,000. It is a long, strong pull of three and a half 
miles to the summit, 2240 feet above the sea; and you will 
need let your animals rest before it is reached, and 
while they are blowing, take a survey of the valley below — 
the ocean and the islands of Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa, 
of Santa Barbara, and the coast as far south as Port Rin- 
con. „ This view alone is a rich reward for all the fatigue of 
the whole trip. 

A little past the summit, but less than half way over the 
mountain, in a lonely glen, lives Pat. Kinnevan, the toll 
man. He has occupied his mountain home for thirteen 
years, and would not think of exchanging it for a residence 
in the City of Washington, where he formerly lived. Pat. is 
right, and it would be vastly better for his countrymen and 
the country of their adoption, if they would abandon the 
cities and make homes of their own in the great West. The 
toll charges are $2.00 for four-horse wagon, $1.50 for two- 
horse, $1.00 for one-horse, 50 cents for a trail wagon, 25 
cents for a saddle horse, 10 cents a head for cattle, and 2|- 
cents for sheep. 

I was somewhat surprised to find that I had come eight 
miles since leaving Goleta, and that it was only nine miles to 
the Hot Springs. There is no better animal for mountain 
roads than a good, well-trained mule. 

A little beyond Kinnevan's I passed a small apiary, the 
owner living in a cabin close by. A collection of fine roses 
and other flowers in the garden showed a woman's tasteful 
care. This is the natural home of the honey bee. In ordi- 
nary years a single stand or swarm will produce from 150 to 
250 pounds. I am informed by Judge D. P. Hatch, of the firm 
of G. A. Temple & Co., that their apiary, the Queen City — 



SANTA BARBARA. 



81 




A SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA APIARY. 



82 CALIFORNIA. 

consisting of 300 double stands — produced 51,000 pounds of 
honey during last season, or an average of over 170 pounds to 
the stand. They rent the bee privileges of the Najalayegua 
Grant, comprising 33,000 acres, situated on the upper Santa 
Ynez River, six miles to the northeast. 

The descent of the north slope of the mountain is grad- 
ual, following the course of a small clear stream, called the 
Los Laureles, by what is known as the Fremont Trail. 

I can understand how the soldiers and their horses could 
have made the passage of these mountains by the Indian 
trail of 35 years ago, but by what means and way the cannon 
were taken over, the famous Pathfinder himself must 
explain. 

About half way down the road winds around a deep 
gorge, along its precipitous sides, affording the grandest 
views, embracing the eastern portion of the San Rafael 
Mountains and of the Santa Ynez Valley. 

Descending the foot-hills, I crossed several small streams 
of the clearest, purest water, then through a pleasant live 
oak opening, when the ruins of an old adobe are seen in 
the distance. 

Just before reaching it, I rode cautiously up to the 
bank of the Hot Springs Creek, and without dismounting 
counted seven trout, of various sizes, up to eight or ten 
inches in length. 

Passing the adobe, and to the north of an enclosed field on 
the left, then one mile up an easy grade into a narrow wooded 
canon, past a little spring on the right, and I dismounted 
among a group of happy children from the tents of the 
campers at the Mountain Glen Hot Springs. 

Hot springs and cold springs and warm springs of 
almost. any desired degree of temperature and strength may 
be found within half a mile along the canon. I sampled 
several, and thrust my hand into others, and found their 
temperature ranging from 60° to over 100°, and all strongly 
impregnated with sulphur. The principal spring is about 
six feet in diameter and three feet deep, walled up on all 
sides, and provided with a rustic bench, but uninclosed 
except by the foliage of the surrounding trees. The tern- 



EXCURSIONS FROM SANTA BARBARA. 83 

perature is about 100°, and afforded me at an early hour in the 
morning a most enjoyable bath. 

Good water is convenient, fuel abundant, small game 
and trout plentiful, wild deer and bear, if desired, within 
easy range of experienced hunters . The tenters were most 
hospitable, and insisted upon adding to my supply of bed- 
ding a warm comforter for the night. 

I left them at so early an hour in the morning and rode 
so rapily over the mountains, that the bells of the old Mis- 
sion were clanging for 12 o'clock noon as I entered Santa 
Barbara. 

Trip No. 2. —Horseback from Santa Barbara to Guadalupe, 
via Gaviota Pass (returning via the San Marcos). Round 
Trip, 250 miles. 

Travel in California is always full of interest to the intel- 
ligent observer; it is never monotonous; there is some- 
thing grand and beautiful in its scenery for every eye; fresh 
and novel scenes surprise you on every hand. The variety, 
excellence and extent of the productions of the compara- 
tively small area under cultivation, suggest the greatness of 
its resources when fully developed. Hundreds of thou- 
sands of fat sheep and cattle attest its adaptation for stock 
raising; bountiful harvests of wheat, barley, Indian corn, 
potatoes and other staple products prove its fitness for agri- 
culture, while orchard trees in great variety, bending under 
their burdens of fruit, invite the horticulturist. 

Santa Barbara is rich in all these resources. The sub- 
jects of this sketch are in that portion lying between the 
coast and the San Kafael Mountains and Santa Barbara 
and the Santa Maria River. 

Where I have tarried but a few moments, the tourist for 
health or pleasure may profitably linger for days or weeks, 
and things that I have barely touched upon, merit an 
extended notice. 

I have promised to introduce as little "hearsay testi- 
mony " as possible. It is Emerson, I believe, who has said 
that "one fact is worth a thousand mere suppositions or 



84 CALIFORNIA. 

common reports." This is my apology for giving so much 
personal experience. 

I rode out of town past the home of that enthusiastic 
flower-lover, Dr. Dimmick. Santa Barbara saved him from 
a consumptive's grave twelve years ago, and his rare and beau- 
tiful collection of flowers has been a perpetual praise offer- 
ing ever since. 

Now on the right, through thick rows of Monterey cypress, 
I catch glimpses of 

Me. John Spence's Extensive Fruit, Plant, Shrub 
and Flower Nursery. He can fill a rose order with 
150 varieties, by mail, if desired. Twenty acres are de- 
devoted to the cultivation of pampas, which thrive better in 
Santa Barbara County than any other portion of Southern 
California. They bear a few plumes the first year, and 
when three or four years old produce from 150 to 200 each. 
Mr. Spence has already received orders this season for over 
40,000 plumes, at $60 per thousand. 

Elevated rolling mesa lands, covered along the north 
slope with pleasant groves of handsome live oaks, shut out 
the ocean view for several miles. A small laguna, christened 
Lake Fenton, perfects the beauty of the landscape. 

* The principal portion of this very valuable tract — 
destined in the near future to furnish Santa Barbara with 
magnificent villa sites — belongs to the Thomas Hope estate, 
originally the Los Posas Collara, grant, containing 4681 
acres, and extending from the suburbs of Santa Barbara, 
seven miles along the ocean to Goleta. The imposing man- 
sion house, erected at a cost of $10,000, is occupied by the 
widow, Mrs. Delia Hope. 

GOLETA is situated seven miles from Santa Barbara, in 
the heart of the rich old Spanish grant of that name, about 
one mile from the ocean, and two miles from the foothills of 
the Santa Ynez mountains. It contains Methodist and Bap- 
tist Church organizations, holding regular services, a Meth- 
odist church, school-house, store, blacksmith shop, meat 
market, and shoe shop, and is the business center of a 



GOLETA. 85 

flourishing American settlement engaged in stock raising, 
general farming and fruit culture. Opening a gate on the 
left hand, a few rods beyond Goleta, I galloped a mile 
across the 1200-acre farm of Mr. John More, to More's 
Landing, the shipping point of this settlement. Here I 
found a substantial wharf about 700 feet long, and the most 
extensive exposure of asphaltum I have ever seen: a bluff 40 
or 50 feet in height, extending inland, out to sea, and down- 
ward for an unknown distance. Whenever I have sailed 
along this portion of the coast by daylight, I have seen large 
quantities of crude petroleum floating on the surface of the 
ocean. Scientists and medical men have expressed the 
opinion that the remarkable exemption of Santa Barbara 
and Ventura counties from the ravages of epidemics of every 
kind, is due in a great measure to the powerful disinfecting 
influence of these enormous asphaltum and petroleum de- 
posits. 

Mr. John More, the owner of this ranch, wharf and as- 
phaltum bed, is one of the six brothers, Andrew, Henry, 
Alexander, Thomas, Lawrence and John, who came to this 
coast in 1849, and subsequently became possessed of vast 
grants of land, including the Ranchos Lonrpoc, 42,085 ,{,{, 
acres; Mission Vieja de la Purissima, 4413 $'„ acres; Santa 
Paula Santicoy, 17,733 ,$ acres, and the Sespe, containing 
about 25,000 acres, and immense flocks of sheep numbering 
at times over 60,000 head. Mr. Alexander T. Moore now 
owns the whole of Santa Rosa Island, comprising 62,696 ,$ 
acres, and one-third of the island of Santa Cruz, containing 
52,760 u? acres, both now stocked with upwards of 50,000 
head of sheep, horses and cattle. 

Returning to the main road, 

The Santa Barbara Nursery of JosErH Sexton, 
the most extensive in the county, next engaged my 
attention. Twelve years ago Mr. Sexton rolled down 
a forest growth of wild mustard ten or twelve feet in 
height, and so large that the fowls of the air could have 
lodged in the branches. It has proved an excellent situa- 
tion for the purpose selected, and through intelligent selec- 



86 CALIFOBNIA. 

tion and culture, been a most valuable contributor to the 
stock of choice fruit-bearing trees of this Southern Coast. 
Some ten acres are filled with every useful and ornamental 
tree, plant, shrub and flower obtainable, many varieties 
growing in a state of luxuriance and perfection seldom at- 
tained in other climates. A beautiful Australian oak, ad- 
vertised to grow to the height of twenty feet in its native 
country, is already about thirty feet high, and still growing. 
Twelve hundred pampas, though allowed 10x12 foot spaces, 
are crowding for more room. A single specimen weighed 
800 pounds when delivered at the railroad in Los Angeles 
county. Mr. Sexton has received as high as $200 a thousand 
for the plumes. He devotes special attention to the apricot, 
at present the most valuable fruit tree grown in the county. 
About sixty thousand very thrifty seedling apricots and 
peaches will be budded this season. He has just completed 
an elegant $10,000 residence, and enlarged his place by the 
purchase of 20 acres adjoining. Two miles beyond and one 
mile off the road to the right, hidden from view by groves 
of live oak and surrounded by orchards of almonds, wal- 
nuts, limes and lemons, and substantial barns, work shops, 
store houses, etc., is the fine country seat of S. P. Stow, Esq. 
His ranch comprises 1200 acres, 200 acres of which are cul- 
tivated with fruit and nut bearing trees, 1000 acres being 
devoted to general farming and the rasing of thoroughbred 
short-horns. It is well supplied with running streams, living 
springs, live oak timber, good pasturage and rich soils for 
farming and fruit growing. A little over a mile further on 
the main road, and then three miles toward the mountains, 
up a gently sloping carriage road, through fields of wheat, 
barley and corn, groves of almonds aud walnuts, orchards 
of apricots, oranges, lemons, pears, apples, etc. — past a mag- 
nificent building site — now crowned with a beautiful lawn 
and flower garden — a small village of farm houses, barns, 
granaries, store houses and work shops, through gates, over 
bridges, across pasture lands and through groves of live 
oak, and we reach 



CiLEN ANNE. 



87 



GLEN ANNE, the home of Col. W. W. Hollister. The 
Colonel, now upwards of sixty years of age, is a tall, well 
formed, well preserved man, erect in carriage, with a very 
intelligent, frank and pleasant face, and a most generous 
heart. He is not only distinguished for his remarkable 




COLONEL HOLLISTER. 



career as a great and successful wool-grower, farmer, horti- 
culturist and financier, and proprietor of immense landed 
estates, but also for his bold and manly independence upon 
all questions of public interest, for his brave and humane 
defense of Chinese labor and rights against the strong 



88 CALIFORNIA. 

hostile anti-Chinese sentiment of the people of the Pacific 
Coast, for his friendly helping hand toward all, without 
regard to race, rank or condition, and his liberal support of 
every movement calculated to promote the public good. The 
Colonel reached this coast in 1852, with a band of less than 
900 sheep, without other property, and burdened with debt. 
Through the constant and intelligent care of his rapidly in- 
creasing flocks and the judicious investment of the proceeds 
from them, his possessions increased until his acres and his 
sheep have each numbered over 70,000 at one time. The 
Colonel's Glen Anne home residence occupies a pleasant, 
sheltered nook close to the foothills of the Santa Ynez 
mountains, near a small stream called the Tecolote (the 
little owl). It is surrounded with fine bearing groves of 
oranges, almonds, lemons and limes, and orchards of pears, 
apples, apricots, peaches, plums, persimmons and other 
fruits in great variety. The Glen Anne farm contains 3600 
acres, over 2000 of which are arable lands, excellently 
adapted to the successful growth of all the productions of 
northern latitudes and those of the southern in great vari- 
ety. Three hundred and fifty acres are devoted to fruit 
culture, comprising over 40,000 fruit and nut-bearing trees. 
The almond orchard is the largest in the United States, 
containing 250 acres and over twenty-five thousand trees. 
Their culture is perfect, and many of the trees are the finest 
I have ever seen. Fifteen acres are covered with 1500 olive 
trees, one of which bore a barrel of fruit last season. 
A beautiful orange grove of thirteen acres and 120 
thrifty trees, enclosed by Monterey cypress, and the lofty 
eucalyptus occupies a choice spot of warm, rich, fine 
loam close by the Glen Anne home. Here I found Mr. Geo. 
W. Coffin, the Colonel's private secretary, a very intelli- 
gent and courteous gentleman. I have nowhere seen so 
great a growth in seven years from the seed, and all 
without irrigation except for the first year or two. Its irri- 
gating hydrants, part of a system of water works constructed 
at a cost of $10,000 and supplying the whole ranch, are here 
unused; yet the growth has been so superabundant as 
to suggest to Mr. Coffin an excess of moisture at the roots, 



EL WOOD. gg 

and a remedy by underdrainage. The first ditch had just 
been opened for this purpose, and full half an inch of water 
flowing through it confirms his good judgment. He also 
prunes the interior of the trees vigorously, letting in the air 
and sunshine with excellent results. Many of the trees are 
now overburdened with fruit, massed in great golden clus- 
ters of over forty oranges on a single branch within a three- 
foot circle. I tasted the fruit from a dozen different trees, 
and found it equal to the average Los Angeles orange. 
Lemons also do exceedingly well in this highly favored 
location. A one-acre grove adjoining produced sixty thous- 
and lemons in a single year. I am inclined to Colonel 
Hollister's opinion, that this whole coast region, from 
Point Concepcion southward, is well adapted to the 
growth of citrus fruits. Next I was shown several thrifty 
specimens of the tender Japanese persimmon, beginning 
to bear excellent fruit, though only four years old. Choice 
varieties of pears, apples and plums were so thickly set with 
fruit as to require thinning out to protect them from injury. 
In addition to those enumerated there are 5000 walnut 
trees, 500 lime trees, 400 apple trees, 200 apricot trees, 200 
cherry trees, 50 date palms and a vineyard containing 5000 
grape vines. Some 2300 acres are devoted to general farm- 
ing, grazing and dairying. From thirty to forty hands are em- 
ployed in the various deparlments of the farm. The whole 
place is a model of thorough culture and excellent management 
underthe immediate superintendence of the Colonel's brother- 
in-law, Col. W. B. James. I take leave of Glen Anne by 
riding for the second time upon the beautiful mound chosen 
by the Colonel as the site of his mansion house. It affords 
a most charming view of the valley of Patera, of the ocean, 
the foothills and the mountains, 

"ELWOOD," the country seat of Hon. Elwood Cooper, 
adjoins Glen Anne on the west. Mr. Cooper, formerly a 
New York merchant, occupies a prominent position on the 
Pacific coast as a leading spirit in its most beneficient en- 
terprises — - educational, agricultural and horticultural. 
Whatever Mr. Cooper undertakes is done so thoroughly 



90 



CALIFORNIA. 



that the results of his experiments are regarded as estab- 
lished precedents. In forest and olive culture especially, 
their importance to Southern California can scarcely be 
overestimated. 

In 1876 he published a valuable work upon "Forest 
Culture and Eucalyptus Trees." Fully appreciating the 
importance of forest culture, especially in dry climates com- 




paratively destitute of timber, he has set out on his 2000- 
acre farm 150,000 eucalyptus trees, comprising 24 varieties, 
now from two to seven years old, and from 15 to 80 feet in 
height, the largest still growing luxuriantly. A dense 
growth of fine specimens affords a grateful shade along the 
public road across the entire estate. 



DOS PUEBLOS. 91 

The Elwoocl residence, plain and comfortable looking 
without, and elegantly furnished within, is hidden from 
view, until close at hand, in a pleasant little wooded glen 
on the Armitas. Commodious barns, work-shops, store- 
houses, etc., are situated close by. 

I found Mr. Cooper busily engaged in packing olive oil. 
Cooper's olive oil is absolutely pure, and commands forty 
cents a bottle more than any other in the American market. 
His perfect success in the home extraction of such an excel- 
lent and valuable product will greatly stimulate the culture 
of the olive along the Southern coast. His orchard con- 
tains 5000 olive trees, the latter bearing finely, 12,500 almond 
trees, 3500 English walnuts, 1500 domestic fruits, and about 
1500 vines, covering altogether 300 acres. The whole is un- 
der most thorough cultivation, and looks very promising. 
Five hundred acres are devoted to general farming. The soil 
is a deep, rich loam, producing excellent crops without irri- 
gation. Twelve hundred acres are used for grazing pur- 
poses. About twenty -five hands are employed in the various 
departments of the ranch. 

Elwood is admirably situated on a gradually rising slope 
extending from the ocean to the foot-hills of the Santa 
Ynez, only four miles from More's Landing, and an hour's 
drive from Santa Barbara. 

After leaving Elwood the coast road runs near the ocean, 
and the ocean soon washes the feet of the mountains. The 
land is more elevated and rolling, but still well adapted to 
agriculture. 

The Armitas, Tecolote and Canada Aguila, small, clear 
mountain streams, all flowing to the sea, are crossed before 
reaching the Dos Pueblos. Col. Hollister's Winchester 
place of 1100 acres, on the right, and Bell's 500-acre farm, 
on the left, are the most important improved places. 

DOS PUEBLOS is situated on the Spanish grant by 
that name, on the Dos Pueblos Creek, close to the sea- 
side, 18 miles from Santa Barbara, and 20 miles from Ga- 
viota. 

The Dos Pueblos Bancho extends about ten miles along 



92 CALIFORNIA. 

the coast and three miles back into the mountains. About 
9600 acres of the 15,000 comprising the grant are still owned 
by the heirs of Nicholas Den, the original grantor; 3,000 
acres are devoted to farming, principally to raising cereals, 
and the remaining portion to grazing. It contains the oldest 
American orchard in the county, comprising 12 acres, and 
some 800 trees of different varieties, many of the trees 
being exceptionally large, fine and fruitful. 

Next on the right, on the Canada De Las Varas, the 
Doty Ranch, of 400 acres, including a fine vineyard, de- 
serves mention. 

Canada Del Corral. — The two-league grant of Canada 
Del Corral extends from the Dos Pueblos to the Nuestro 
Senora Del Refugio, and is owned in equal parts — the El 
Capitan being the dividing boundary — by A. W. Buel and 
Bruno Orella. 

Crossing the Canada Del Gato and the Canada De Las 
Llagas, I met 85 fine fat cows, belonging to Mr. Buel. This 
has heretofore been an excellent dairy ranch, but a rank 
growth of mustard is now encroaching so rapidly upon the 
best grazing portion, that it will be stocked with sheep 
for the purpose of feeding it down and out. 

El Capitan, a fine, clear mountain stream, flows to 
the sea about one mile beyond the Buel Ranch. Handsome 
live oaks border both banks all the way to the ocean. It 
is a favorite resort of Santa Barbara camping parties, and 
its cosy, cool retreats are seldom long unoccupied during 
the summer months. Bruno Orella was not at home, and 
his young son, suspecting that I was a tax assessor in dis- 
guise, declined to be interviewed. 

A little further on, over the Refugio Creek and Canada 
Tajiguas, and we enter 

The Rancho Nuestra Senora Del Refugio, containing 
26,529 acres, 8,000 of which are owned by the Dibblee 
Brothers and Col. Hollister. It extends along the coast for 
20 miles, to the eastern boundary of the Punta De La Con- 
cepcion. Pedro Baron, a Frenchman, owns 1900 acres of 



LAS CRUGES HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS. 93 

the Refugio, situated on Arroyo Quenada, nine miles from 
Gaviota. Some twenty acres only are farmed, it being 
chiefly grazing land, now supporting about 1200 sheep, 80 
cattle and a few horses. At Arroyo Honda, Pedro Ortego 
owns 5C0 acres, where he has lived for twenty-five years. 
Unlike most of his countrymen, he set out a variety of fruit 
trees fifteen years ago, and 800 grape vines ten years later, 
which now yield abundantly. The mountains crowd closer 
and closer to the sea, until, like the children who followed 
the "Piper of Hamelin," you wonder how you will get into 
and through them; but when, after crossing the Posta and 
Molinos Creeks and Canada San Onofre and Cimentero, you 
you turn abruptly away from the ojean and enter 

Gaviota Pass, the way seems plain enough, and is 
neither very steep nor difficult. Gaviota Pass and Landing- 
is about 38 miles from Santa Barbara, on the Rancho Nu- 
estra Senora del Refugio. A substantial wharf extends 
1000 feet into 25 feet of water, and is the shipping point of 
a considerable portion of the Santa Ynez, Sauta Rita and 
Los Alamos valleys. San Francisco steamers stop here 
every Thursday for passengers and freight. 

Three and one-half miles through the coast range, cross- 
ing and re-crossing the Gaviota, worn down by the wash of 
ages hundreds of feet into the solid limestone rock, a gen- 
uine pass, wild and tortuous, narrow and high-walled, and 
we reach 

Las Cruces, about 42 miles from Santa Barbara. It con- 
tains a post-office, school house, store, blacksmith shop, 
four families of Spanish speakiug people, and one Amer- 
ican. A radius of six miles from Las Cruces embraces a 
rare combination of attractions for the health-seeker, tourist, 
and sportsman. The 

LAS CRUCES HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS are situ- 
ated about three - quarters of a mile to the southeast, 
in a very pleasant sheltered situation, under the shade of 
large live oaks and sycamores, with good camping grounds 
near by. The principal spring is one of the largest I have 



94 CALIFORNIA. 

seen, flowing a volume of about ten inches, and having a 
temperature of 90°. It is walled up about nine feet in 
diameter, and provided with a seat and towel rack for bath- 
ers. A fine spring of good cold water flows out close along- 
side. Two families from Lompoc were camping there for 
the benefit of its waters. 

Five miles to the northeast, over rolling hills and across 
a pleasant little valley, three quarters of a mile beyond the 
store and inn of Jose Buelna, on the Canada Najoqui, at an 
elevation of 1000 feet above the sea, are situated the beau- 
tiful 

FALLS OF NAJOQUI. They remind me of the charm- 
ing falls of Minne-ha-ha, made famous by the song of Long- 
fellow. Only a little stream, but bravely leaping over a 
hundred feet, down a rocky precipice, through the over- 
hanging foliage, dashing itself half away in crystal spray, 
eddying a moment in the deep -worn basin below, and then 
flowing laughingly on to the sea. I reached it on a warm 
day, after a fatiguing ride, and could not resist the tempta- 
tion of the most luxurious shower bath I ever enjoyed. 
With its hot springs, good bathing beach at Gaviota, the 
beautiful falls of Najoqui, picturesque scenery, and excellent 
hunting and fishing, Las Cruces deserves the attention of 
health and pleasure seekers. It is eighteen miles from Las 
Cruces to Lompoc, through the San Julian. For about five 
miles the road gradually ascends the Canada Las Cruces, 
crossing the summit of the mountain at an elevation of 900 
feet. Thick groves of live oak cover the highest hills, the 
gentle slopes and level bottom lands affording excellent 
pasturage. We are now on the Rancho 

San Julian, a magnificent estate of 48,000 acres, all 
owned by Thomas B. and Albert Dibblee. It is well 
watered by the Canadas De Los Alamos, Gaviota, the 
Arroyos De Los Amoles, De La Jara, De Salsipuedes, 
La Espada, and other small streams. This and the 
adjoining ranchos are probably unsurpassed on the Pa- 
cific coast in their adaptation for dairying purposes. 



THE TEMPERANCE COLONY OF LOMPOC. 95 

Although almost exclusively devoted to grazing up to the 
present time, it comprises a considerable area of arable lands 
of the best quality. Over 55,000 sheep and 300 cattle are 
now feeding upon its rich native grasses, all in excellent 
condition so far as seen. For fifteen miles the road de- 
scends an easy grade, along the La Jara and the Salsi- 
puecles, before leaving this great ranch. Night overtook 
me five miles from Lompoc, riding a horse so weary and 
footsore that I turned it into a volunteer barley field, aban- 
doned to the stock, wrapped my blankets around me, and 
lay down until morning. At an early hour I rode into the 

TEMPERANCE COLONY OF LOMPOC. It was 

established in 1874, upon lands of the Lompoc and Mission 
Vieja de la Purissima, containing over 40,000 acres. The 
Lompoc Valley proper comprises about 12,000 acres of the 
richest portion of the lower valley of the Santa Ynez. The 
soil is rich, fine, alluvial loam, producing bountiful crops of 
wheat, barley, beans and corn, and nearly all the produc- 
tions raised on the Pacific coast. The climate is bracing 
and healthy, free from all malaria, but considerably harsher 
than south of Point Concepcion. Its most disagreeable 
feature is the northwest ocean winds which sweep down the 
valley quite constantly, and with considerable force, from 
March until midsummer. During the fall and winter months 
the weather is most agreeable. It is well watered by the 
Santa Ynez River and other smaller streams flowing through 
it, and affords good well-water at a depth of 40 feet, and 
artesian supplies within 200 feet. The colony contains 
over 1400 people, some 300 occupying the town, who are 
generally in a prosperous condition. Among the things 
which pleased me most was a fine, commodious school 
building, a good church, well filled on the Sabbath, and the 
ruins of the only liquor saloon the town has ever had. Or- 
ganized as a temperance colony, its lands sold with covenants 
prohibiting the sale of intoxicating liquors within its boun- 
daries settled; mainly by temperance people, they have 
shown a determination to live a temperance colony by blow- 
ing up from its foundation a building where, after due pro- 
test, liquor was being sold — and long may they prosper. 



96 CALIFORNIA. 

The most interesting object to tourists are the ruins of 
the old adobe .Lompoc Mission, shaken down by an earth- 
quake nearly a century ago. Its extensive buildings, en- 
closures, reservoirs, and irrigating works indicate its occu- 
pation by a larger population than Lompoc now contains. 
But the civilization of New Lompoc is a thousand years in 
advance of theirs. 

Point Purissima, thirteen miles, Lompoc Wharf, twelve 
miles, and the new wharf at Point Arguillo, eleven miles 
distant, are the shipping ports of this region. There are 
Hot Sulphur Springs on the Espada Ranch, three miles 
from Point Arguillo. The ruins of the old Purissima 
Mission, established in 1812, are exceedingly interesting, 
and I regret my lack of space to notice them more fully. 
Huge piles of concrete, tile-roofed adobes, three hundred 
feet in length, with walls four or five feet thick, are aban- 
doned to the owls and bats, and are crumbling back to the 
earth again. Reservoirs, from ten to thirty feet in diameter, 
are still in a good state of preservation. A sixty-year old 
pear orchard bears abundantly, but the fruit is of poor 
quality. The 

La Pukissima Rancho, as recently confirmed by the Com- 
missioner of the General Land office, embraces an area of 
upwards of 35,000 acres, chiefly grazing land, though con- 
taining extensive tracts well adapted to agriculture and fruit 
growing. It is watered by the Santa Ynez River, the Canada 
De Los Berros, and numerous springs. This ranch and the 
Santa Rita, containing 12,000 acres, are owned by Christy & 
Wise, of San Francisco, D. W. and A. P. Jones, Jesse Hill, 
Craig, Blackburn, and others. It will soon be subdivided 
and sold in tracts to suit purchasers, at prices ranging from 
$2.50 to $40 per acre. The soil is a warm, sandy, fertile 
loam, the water good and easily obtained, and fuel abundant. 
The climate is healthy, free from malaria, and comparatively 
protected from the cold ocean winds. At 

Santa Rosa, I was very cordially greeted by the Major 
Domo, John Wilson, a warm-hearted pioneer of 1850, from 
Vermont, and twelve years manager of the Santa Rosa. It 



LOU alamos. 97 

is a magnificent estate of over 16,000 acres, well watered by 
the Santa Ynez River, and other streams and numerous 
springs. Seventeen thousand sheep and 100 head of cattle 
and horses are now grazing upon it, and there is feed for 
several thousand more. Upwards of 5,000 acres of valley 
and foot-hill lands are arable. Twenty acres of wheat 
yielded 55 bushels to the acre, and it is estimated that ten 
bushels per acre was lost in threshing. About one hundred 
acres are farmed, chiefly for hay, a capacious barn now en- 
closing a reserve of one hundred tons. The wool clip of 
last year amounted to 120,000 pounds, worth 22 J cents per 
pound. Thirty-five men are employed in shearing time in 
April and September, and twelve during the remainder of 
the year. The shepherds live with their sheep, the Major 
Domo packing them provisions every week on horseback. 
The storehouse contains upwards of two thousand dollars 
worth of flour, groceries, boots, shoes, clothing, and other 
necessary ranch supplies. The ranch house is a capacious, 
tile-roofed adobe, occupying a commanding situation, sup- 
plied with good water, forced through pipes, from a spring 
below. A four-acre seven year old orchard of apples, 
peaches, pears, quinces, etc., occupies a warm, sheltered 
spot near by. It bore eight tons of fruit last summer, and 
many of the trees are now supported with poles, to prevent 
their breaking from the excessive fruitage. 

J. W. Cooper, the owner of Santa Rosa, is a warm- 
hearted, estimable man, who has acquired it by his own pa- 
tient, untiring industry, since his arrival on this coast in 
1850. He resides most of the time in his elegant city resi- 
dence at Santa Barbara. I met here his father-in-law, Hon. 
Albert Hollister, brother of the Colonel, a Missouri pioneer, 
a staunch Union man among rebels, full of interesting anec- 
dotes and experiences of early and of rebellious times. A 
good horse trail about nine miles long leads over the moun- 
tains from Santa Rosa to 

LOS ALAMOS, the present terminus of the San Luis 
Obispo and Santa Maria Railroad, which connects at Port 
Harford with the steamers of the Pacific Coast Steamship 
Company. 



98 CALIFOBNIA. ' 

Santa Rosa is a very pleasant valley to look back upon 
from the summit, but Los Alamos loses nothing by compar- 
ison with it. Rapidly descending the north slope of the 
mountain, I was most agreeably surprised at the character 
and beauty of the landscape which greeted me. 

The valley proper is about twenty miles long, with an 
average width of a mile and a half, and an elevation, at Dr. 
Shaw's, near Los Alamos, of 480 feet above the sea. The 
valley surface is level, with gently rising foot-hills, 
on the east and west. Handsome groves and parks of 
live oak cover the upper portion. The soil is rich, deep 
and moist; good water being obtained at a depth of from 
eight to fifteen feet. 

The San Antonio River, Arroyo de Los Alamos and Ca- 
nadas Santa Rosa, Camusa, Los Alamos, Santa Ynez de Las 
Flores and other living streams flow through it. 

Caveaga and Harris own 17,000 acres of the Los Alamos 
Rancho, John S. Bell 13,000, Dr. J. Shaw 4400, and Gasper 
Orena 4000 acres. 

Mr. Bell's residence is delightfully situated on a hand- 
some mound, in a fine live oak park, within sight of the vil- 
lage, and overlooking a considerable portion of the valley. 
Mr. Bell is also the owner of 10,000 acres of the Laguna de 
San Francisco. 

The country home of Dr. J. B. Shaw is situated near the 
foot-hills, about one mile east of Los Alamos. His ranch 
comprises 8000 acres of the Laguna de San Francisco and 
4400 acres of the Los Alamos. It is well watered and 
wooded, and contains several thousand acres of excellent 
arable lands. 

Los Alamos is 17 miles from Lompoc, 27 from Gaviota, 
15 from La Graciosa, 14 from Ballard's Station and 64 from 
Santa Barbara. 

En route for La Graciosa, I soon reached the residence 
of Juan Careaga, owner of 17,000 acres of the Los Alamos. 
He farms 4000 acres, and keeps 8000 sheep and 60 dairy 
cows. 

Turning into the foot-hills, a little beyond the Los Ala- 
mos school-house, two hours' ride over a sandy road, and 



THE SANTA MARIA VALLEY. 99 

thence across the Toclos y San Antonio Rancho, of 20,772 
acres, owned by H. M. Newhall, Mrs. Hartweli and others, 
brought me to 

LA GEACIOSA, seventy-five miles from Santa Barbara. 
Among the sand-hills between La Graciosa aud Guadalupe, 
I was overtaken by L. Markam, the pioneer farmer of the 
Guadalupe Valley, now of Los Alamos. His wheat averaged 
3100 pounds per acre last season, and will exceed 2300 
pounds the present. Hares or jack rabbits have entirely 
destroyed one twenty-acre field of wheat. They were so 
numerous and destructive in an adjoining settlement that 
for some time the settlers rallied every Saturday and killed 
them by the hundreds, in order to save their crops. Ap- 
proaching Guadalupe through the lower valley of the Santa 
Maria, I could survey from a single point ten miles square 
of unbroken grain fields, extending almost as far as the eye 
could reach, white, golden-strawed, and full-headed, bowing 
for the harvester. A strong northwester swept up the valley 
from the ocean so cool, that an overcoat was found very 
comfortable. 

THE SANTA MARIA VALLEY is about thirty miles 
long and ten miles broad near the ocean, with an average 
width of three miles. It comprises the best portions of the 
Guadalupe, Punta de Laguna, Suey, Tepesque, and Todos 
Santos Ranchos, about 60,000 acres of arable lands. The 
soil is a deep sandy loam, especially adapted to the growth 
of cereals, but producing also good crops of corn, beans, 
potatoes, flax, mustard and the various other productions of 
Southern California, except semi-tropic fruits. A range of 
high rolling hills, known as the Azufre, extending from 
near the ocean upwards of twenty miles, with an average 
width of six miles, in a southeasterly direction, separates it 
from Lompoc and the valley of the Santa Ynez. The Guad- 
alupe rancho, containing 43,681 ,^ acres, owned by Leroy 
and others, embraces a considerable portion of these lands. 
Well watered, free from noxious weeds and plants, its excel- 
lent pasturage affords one of the best dairy ranges in Cali- 



100 CALIFORNIA. 

fornia. It is occupied chiefly by Swiss dairymen, who milk 
daily about 4000 cows, making 2000 pounds of butter, which 
ranks with the best produced in Marin county. 

GUADALUPE, the principal town of the Santa Maria 
Valley, is situated on the Guadalupe Rancho, ne;ir the Santa 
Maria River, about seven miles from the ocean and 95 miles 
from Santa Barbara. It is somewhat sheltered by the high 
lands bordering the Santa Maria River, in San Luis Obispo 
county, from the force of the strong cool winds which prevail 
along the upper coast, especially from midday until sundown. 
The climate is cool, bracing and healthy. W. W. Ayres, 
druggist, and a resident of six years, says it is too salubrious 
for the good of his business. 

Point Sal and Chute Landing, about eight miles distant, 
are the shipping points for all this section of country. The 
caves, arches and grottos formed by the abrasion of the 
ocean waves in the limestone formation at Muscle Rock, on 
the sea-shore, between six and seven miles from Guadalupe, 
are a favorite resort of local excursionists, and will be of 
much interest to tourists. 

CENTRAL CITY is situated ten miles from Guadalupe, 
and ten miles from the Santa Maria River, sixteen miles 
from Point Sal and the Chute Landing, nineteen miles from 
Los Alamos, twenty-nine miles from San Luis Obispo, and 
eighty-four miles from Santa Barbara. It commands the 
trade of a large scope of rich country, and is one of the most 
promising places in the county. 

A large tract of Government land lies between the 
Rancho Punta de Laguna, Los Alamos and the Santa Maria 
and Sisquoc rivers, occupied in the upper portion chiefly 
by Spaniards and Chilians, and in the lower portion hy 
Americans. 

Following the course of the Sisquoc River, I turned 
away from the valley toward the Tinaquaic, past the 
Catholic Church, and the monument of its original owner, 
Julian Foxen, a Santa Barbara pioneer of 1828, to the 
pleasant home of his son-in-law, Mr. Frederick Wickenden. 



VALLEY OF THE SANTA YNEZ. 101 

The Tinaquaic, containing 8874 acres, is still owned and 
occupied by the Foxen heirs. Mr. Wickenden having 
added to their portion by purchasing 6000 acres of the 
La Laguna. 

The Tinaquaic adjoins the eleven league Rancho Sis- 
quoc, owned by Mrs. Stone. The rent of this now highly 
improved and very valuable estate was at one time offered 
to Mr. Wickenden for $38. 

Passing rapidly through the upper portion of the Los 
Alamos, I crossed the mountain to 

The Rancho San Carlos de Jonata, by a good horse- 
back trail along the Canada Santa Ynez. The summit, 1368 
feet above the sea, affords a very fine view of the upper 
Santa Ynez Valley. The Jonata, comprising 26,634 acres, 
about 10,000 of which are arable, with a fine, rich, sandy 
loam, is owned by R. T. Buell, the enthusiastic greenbacker. 
It is well watered by the Santa Ynez River, which, flows 
through it for more than six miles, Canada de La Laguna, 
Canada Botella and Zaca creeks, and numerous springs. Its 
shipping point is Gaviota, thirteen miles distant. 

The Rancho Najoqui adjoins De Jonata on the south, 
the Santa Ynez River flowing between them. It contains 
11,262 acres of excellent f aiming and grazing lands, and is 
the home of Dr. De la Cuesta — a pioneer of 1848, from 
Spain — a resident owner of about 6000 acres. It is well 
watered by the Santa Ynez River, Alisal and Canada Najoqui, 
upon which are situated the beautiful falls of that name, 
only four miles distant. It contains about 1200 acres of 
arable land, 800 of which are now farmed; wheat, barley 
and flax being the principal crops. Najoqui is about eleven 
miles from Gaviota, twelve miles from Los Alamos, and 
forty-six miles from Santa Barbara. Proceeding from thence 
past the store of Leon Carteri, through the upper 

VALLEY OF THE SANTA YNEZ, I was most agree- 
ably surprised at its extent, richness and beauty. It em- 
braces portions of the great ranchos, Canada De Los Pinos 
or College Grant, and Lomes de Pnrificacion; theTequepis, 



102 CALIFORNIA. 

and the San Marcos. Stopping a while to examine the very 
interesting ruins of the Santa Ynez Mission, established in 
1804, I reached the Rancho Purificacion, just as Thos. W. 
More, son of its late owner, Capt. T. W. More, was leaving 
for their fine city residence in the suburbs of Santa Bar- 
bara. It contains 13,541 acres, chiefly grazing lands, lying 
between the Santa Ynez Mountains and river, the latter 
separating it from the College Grant, flowing between them 
for eight or nine miles. An orchard, forty years old, is still 
bearing good apples, pears, cherries, etc. Capt. More, for 
many years before his death, was intrusted by the Catholic 
Church, with the charge of the 

College Grant, which he grazed, in common with his 
own. It contains 35,499 acres, over 15,000 of which are rich 
arable lands, specially adapted to wheat. Besides the Santa 
Ynez River, the Santa Agata, and Canada De Los Pinos, 
both living streams, flow through it. The elevation is about 
596 feet above the sea. Good well-water is obtained at a 
depth of from twenty to eighty feet. Passing through this 
settlement toward Ballard's Station, I met Bro. Walter, of 
the College of our Lady of Guadalupe, conducted by the 
Brothers of the Christian Schools, Father Lynch in charge. 
His thirty pupils were bathing in the cool waters of the 
Canada De Los Pinos, which flows through the College 
grounds. This school i s sustained by a tuition fee of one 
hundred and fifty dollars per year, and the College grant 
fund. It is a healthy and delightful situation for a school 
of learning. 

BALLARD'S STATION is very pleasantly situated on 
the banks of the Alamo Pintado, on the borders of a live 
oak park of great beauty, in the western portion of the val- 
ley, about three miles from its principal settlement. For- 
merly a station on the Coast Stage Line via San Marcos 
Pass, it is still a favorite and most agreeable resting place, 
for travelers and tourists. It is now the home of G. W. 
Lewis, who came to this coast in 1856, and to the valley of 
the Santa Ynez in 1860. He owns 800 acres of its best lands, 



EXCURSIONS FROM SANTA BARBARA. 103 

well watered by the Alamo Pintado creek, containing an 
abundant supply of wood for fuel, and affording good water 
at a depth of from ten to thirty feet. The climate is most 
healthful and delightful, and very beneficial to asthmatics 
and consumptives; the scenery magnificent, the Santa Ynez 
Hot Sulphur Springs and charming Lake Zaca, within three 
hours drive, while the foothills abound with deer and small 
game, and the streams with fine trout. Ballard's Station is 
about forty miles from Santa Barbara, via the San Marcos 
toll road. Riding until nightfall, rider, horse and dog- 
found a welcome rest under a wide-spreading live oak, until 
morning, when, at an early hour, I rode down the Marshall 
trail to Santa Barbara. 

The resources of Santa Barbara County are greatly un- 
derestimated, not only by the public generally, but also by 
its own residents. That narrow belt of rich and beautiful 
country, embracing the delightful valleys of La Patera, 
Montecito, aud Carpinteria, comprises only a small portion 
of its agricultural and horticultural lands. There are 
ranches in the western portion of the county, now occupied 
by a single family, and a few thousand head of sheep, cattle 
and horses, and their shepherds and vaqueros, which are 
capable of supporting, in comfortable circumstances, one 
hundred and fifty families. 

Trip No. 3. — Horseback from Santa Barbara to San Fran- 
cisco, via NewcomVs While Sulphur Springs, San Luis 
Obispo, Paso Robles Springs, Monterey, Santa Cruz and 
San Jose. 450 miles. 

I have already described the general features of the 
Coast country to the Santa Maria River. This stream is 
the boundary line between Santa Barbara and San Luis 
Obispo Counties. 

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY contains an area of over 
2,000,000 acres of greatly diversified surface, well watered, 
embracing magnificent grazing, farming and fruit lands, 
possessing a delightful climate, and yet but sparsely settled, 
the total population not exceeding 15,000. 



104 CALIFORNIA. 

San Luis Obispo is the principal town, containing about 
2500 people; and Cumbria, Moro, Cayucas, San Simeon, 
San Miguel, Paso Robles and Arroyo Grande the other 
more important places. 

I reached Arroyo Grande the third day, and on the fol- 
lowing morning visited 

NEWCOMB'S WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, one of 

the most popular resorts and sanitariums of this region. 
An excellent carriage road led me to the springs, very pleas- 
antly situated, in a shady oak opening on Newcomb's Creek, 
about two miles from the depot of the San Luis Obispo and 
Santa Maria Railroad. They burst forth with a flow of not 
less than five inches, having a temperature of about 100°, 
white sulphur, iron, magnesia, soda and common salt being 
their most prominent qualities. Over $10,000 have been 
expended in improvements, comprising a verv comfortable 
hotel, several cosy cottages, accommodating 60 persons, ex- 
cellent bathing facilities, a plunge bath, 10x6 feet and 4 feet 
deep, temp. 94°, for adults; one 8x4, 2 feet deep, for children, 
and several ordinary baths, temperature 98°. The purest, cool 
mountain water flows side by side with the mineral springs. 
The property embraces 1500 acres, and affords such unusual 
facilities for campers, that the Methodists have secured a 
lease of a portion for their annual meetings. There is a 
spring close at hand which possesses remarkable cleaning 
and cleansing qualities for washing purposes, and an abund- 
ant supply of wood at a reasonable charge. The situation is 
exceedingly healthy, no epidemics or malarial diseases ever 
having been known there. When the scarlet fever was very 
prevalent, the 200 children at the springs escaped without a 
touch. The annual visitors number about 2500. The people 
of the neighboring country have such faith in the powerful 
disinfecting, preventive and curative virtues of these waters, 
that many of them carry it to their homes when sickness 
breaks out or threatens. 

They are, without doubt, among the most efficacious for 
rheumatism, dyspepsia, liver complaint and all cutaneous and 
blood diseases. The charges for board, rooms and baths 



THE CELEBRATED EL PASO BE ROBLES SPRINGS. 



105 



are $10 per week; cottages, with stoves and furniture, 
from 13 to $5. 

Route from San Francisco by steamers of Pacific Coast 
Steamship Company to Port Harford, thence 25 miles by 
San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria Railroad. 



SAN LUIS OBISPO. I was very favorably impressed 
with San Luis Obispo, as a pleasant, thriving place. It is 
finely situated about ten miles from the sea-coast, at Port 
Harford, commanding the trade of the most productive por- 
tion of the county. En route from thence, I passed the 
Mountain House, Epifanio Borando, proprietor; The Eight 
Mile House, kept by the Bean Brothers; Gen. P. W. Murphy's 
splendid 50,000 acre rancho, the San Marguerita; the 
ruins of the old mission near by, and Thomas Cashan's Inn, 
stopping over night, thirty-two miles out, at 




THE CELEBRATED EL PASO DE ROBLES 
SPRINGS. Unlike so many mineral springs, hid away in 
comparatively inaccessible canons, these are delightfully situ- 
ated in a beautiful live oak park, surrounded by landscapes of 
singular beauty. The principal spring is a very remarkable 
one, not only for its mineral properties, but great flow of water, 
estimated at over 500 gallons per hour, with a temperature 
of 110° Fahrenheit. It is conducted in air-tight pipes direct 



10G CALIFORNIA. 

from the spring, without losing any of its medicinal proper- 
ties, into an extensive bathing establishment, containing the 
most complete facilities for hot and cold, steam, vapors, 
shower and plunge baths, under the supervision of experi- 
enced attendants. 

There are numerous other springs upon the grounds, the 
Sand Spring having a temperature of 146°, — Soda and 
White Sulphur, Iron and Chalybeate Springs, ranging in 
temperature from 60° to 80° Fahrenheit. 

The well-known Mud Bath, for the cure of obstinate 
cases of rheumatism, is near the latter, over a spring having 
a temperature of 140° Fahrenheit; one imperial gallon show- 
ing the following analysis : 

Grains per gallon. 

Sulphureted hydrogen gas 3.28 

Carbonic acid gas 47.84 

Sulphate of lime 17.00 

Sulphata of Potassa. traces 

Sulphate of Soda 41.11 

Silica 1.11 

Carbonate of Magnesia 3.10 

Carbonate of Soda 5.21 

Chloride of Sodium 96.48 

Organic Matter 3.47 

1G8.30 

The hotel accommodations are extensive and complete, 
comprising a large main building, a spacious and elegant 
dining hall, fourteen finely furnished cottages, reading and 
billiard rooms, store, post-office, Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Ex- 
press, telegraph and excellent livery. 

An experienced physician resides constantly at the 
Springs, which are open the year round. 

There are good hunting and fishing, and splendid drives in 
the neighborhood. The climate is one of the most equable, 
enjoyable and healthy in the world. 

There are two routes to the Springs, by the Southern Pa- 
cific R. R., from corner Fourth and Townsend, 10:40 a.m., 
143 miles, and thence 84 miles by stage; or by P. S. S. Co.'s 
Steamers to Port Harford, rail eleven miles to San Luis 
Obispo, and then stage 28 miles. Blackburn Bros. & James 
are the proprietors. 



THE SAN MIGUEL MISSION. 107 

Analysis of one gallon, 7000 grains, of the principal Paso 
Robles Hot Sulphur Spring, by Professors Price and Hew- 
ston of San Francisco: 

Grains per Gallon. 

Sulphureted Hydrogen Gas 4.45 

Free Carbonic Acid Gas 10.50 

Sulphate of Lime 3.21 

Sulphate of Potassa 88 

Sulphate of Soda (Glauber's Salts) 7 .85 

Peroxide of Iron 30 

Alumina 22 

Silica 44 

Bicarbonate of Magnesia 92 

Bicarbonate of Soda 50.74 

Chloride of Sodium (Common Salt) 27.18 

Iodide and Bromides , traces only 

Organic Matter 1.64 



93.44. 

THE SAN MIGUEL MISSION, established 107 years 
ago, is situated near the village of San Miguel, about seven 
miles from Paso de Robles Springs. Antonio Miller, in 
charge, kindly showed me through it. Here a stock-raiser 
on the Estrella, a tributary of the Salinas, told me that he 
had just finished killing 1500 lambs to save their mothers 
from starvation. 

A Hopeful Farmer. — On the San Antonio River, ten 
miles beyond, a farmer was engaged in plowing. His whole 
family, evidently — wife, girls and all — were in the field with 
him, fat and jolly. " Can you raise anything without more 
rain?" I asked. "Yes; a pretty fair crop. You see the 
ground is damp enough now to sprout the seed, and the 
roots will then draw sufficient moisture from below to 
mature the grain; besides we are almost sure to get more 
rain yet," he answered, with the utmost confidence. 

His Despondent Neighbor. — At the next place there 
was a sign out, " honey for sale, " which, misreading //«//, I 
rode up to the fence, and tendered an old lady inside the 
money for a feed for my horse. "We haven't got a 
spear of hay! See those starving cattle!" she said, mourn- 
full}*, pointing to a hide-bound, tottering band, a little way 



108 CALIFORNIA. 

off, apparently about ready to surrender to the buzzards. 
Presently her husband, a long, lank Southerner, came 
up, looking as though he had lost all of this world's 
goods and happiness, and all hopes of the future. " I 
have lived in California thirty years," he said, "and 
this is the dryest, coldest winter I have ever known. I 
have got as moist land as there is on the river, but unless it 
rains I can't raise a thing, and will lose most of my stock." 
A few days later copious showers visited all this section, and 
everybody was happy — except those who had slaughtered 
the innocents. 
I was soon in 

MONTEREY COUNTY, comprising 36,000 square miles, 
or over 2,250,000 acres, of greatly diversified country, em- 
bracing extensive and excellent stock ranges, fine rolling, 
live-oak wooded foot-hills, and numerous fertile valleys, con- 
taining a population of about 12,000. 

Monterey, Salinas City, Castroville, Santa Rita, Nativa- 
dad, Chuallar and Gonzales being the most important cities 
and towns. 

Sixty miles through this exceedingly picturesque and in- 
teresting region — the villages of Pleito, Jolon and Lowes, and 
I descended into 

THE GEEAT SALINAS VALLEY, which stretches 
away from the sea-coast, betweeu the Gabilan Mountains 
on the east, and the Santa Lucia on the west, for over a 
hundred miles, with an average width of about ten miles. 
It is traversed by the Southern Pacific Railroad as far south 
as Soledad, 143 miles from San Francisco. 

Here they were catching the first run of salmon, while 
struggling up the shallow sand bars of the Salinas. 

Thence across that stream, via Gonzales and Chualar, the 
9th of March, I reached 



110 CALIFORNIA. 

MONTEREY, THE GREAT WATERING-PLACE OF 
THE PACIFIC COAST.— It presents a combination of at- 
tractions and advantages unequalled by any other sea-side 
resort in the United States. 

These are a beautiful location, a most delightful and 
healthful climate the year round, a history and relics of 
romantic interest, splendid drives, an excellent beach, and 
the most magnificent hotel and bathing establishment in 
this country. 

The first capital of the Golden State is situated on the 
Bay of Monterey, 125 miles by rail and 85 by steamer, south 
of San Francisco. This is a magnificent body of water, about 
25 miles in width, with beautiful shores of clean white sand, 
strewn with sea-mosses, shells, pebbles and agates, and 
abounds in fish, rock cod, barracouta, pompino, Spanish 
mackerel and other varieties. 

It was first discovered by Don Sebastian Vizcayno, about 
280 years ago, who landed with his soldiers, and called the 
place after Count De Monterey, Viceroy of Mexico, under 
Philip III of Spain. 

In 1770, Father Junipero Serra and others, in the name 
of that king, took formal possession, by the building of an 
altar, the hoisting of the royal standard, firing of guns, ring- 
ing of bells and chanting of sacred hymns. Monterey then 
became one of the largest and most flourishing of the Fran- 
ciscan Missions, and successively the gay and festive seat of 
Government under Spanish, Mexican and American rale, 
down to 1849. Here the Spanish Governors, Jose Arguello, 
Diego de Borca, Jose de Arrillagua, Pablo Yicento de Sola; 
then eleven Mexican Governors, the last being Don Pio 
Pico — whom I met hale and hearty, at Los Angeles, a few 
weeks ago — made their homes down to 1846. Then came 
Commodore Sloat, and Generals Fremont and Kearney, Col. 
Mason and Generals Riley and Smith, until the election 
of Governor Burnett, in 1849, and the removal of the capital 
to San Jose. With the decline of the Mission establish- 
ment, the loss of the capital and county seat, without rail- 
way communication or local industries, she slept, undis- 
turbed, until awakened by the Narrow Guage Railroad from 



112 



CALIFORNIA. 



Salinas in 1874, and resurrected into new life and beauty, 
five years later, by its selection, by the Pacific Improvement 
Company, as the most favored place for the great summer 
and winter resort of the Pacific Coast, and the expenditure 
of half a million of dollars in the erection and sumptuous 
furnishing of a palatial hotel, and beautifying of extensive 
parks, gardens and drives, with all the art and adornment 
which money can command. 

The Climate op Monterey is one of the most ecpiable, 
salubrious and enjoyable on the globe. It possesses a delight- 
ful mean the year round, extremes of heat or cold being un- 
known. The difference between the average summer tem- 
perature, 58°, and winter, 52°, is less than at any other point in 
this country, and finds no parallel, except at Honolulu, Sand- 
wich Islands. To the Eastern reader, it may be described 
as a perpetual Indian summer. The rainfall seldom exceeds 
thirteen inches, there is no sultry, enervating heat, the 
nights are always cool, and malarial fever unknown. 

Meteorological observations taken at the Hotel del Monte, 
from July, 1880, to December 31, 1882: 



Months . 



1880, 

July 

August 

September. . . 

October 

November. . . 
December . . . 

1881, 

January 

February .... 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September . . 

October 

November. . 
December . . . 

1882, 

January 

February 

March 

April , 

May 

June , . . . 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November. .. 
December 



Mean Temperature. 



8 A.B 



62.01 
59.51 
57.80 
54.67 
45.53 
50.41 

46.48 
52.82 
52.83 
60.60 
59.74 
62.10 
62.64 
60.12 
57.86 
53.96 
46.83 
46.81 

40.32 
44.10 
51.29 
53.66 
57.58 
59.97 
61.96 
60.41 
59.60 
55 41 
48.90 
46.74 



1p.m. 6 p.m 



69.03 
69.58 
68.73 
67.64 
61.80 
57.93 

59.96 
61.50 
63.80 
67.10 
69.03 
71.50 
74.20 
70.29 
69.30 
64.67 
57.76 
58.25 

54.58 
54.25 
60.48 
61.33 
65.74 
68.63 
69.16 
73.41 
66.96 
65.22 
59.38 
61.74 



64.59 
61.32 
58.33 
56.35 
48.33 
53.29 

50.35 
54.53 
53.77 
59.10 
59.38 
61.83 
62.51 
60.29 
58.73 
54.19 
48.20 
49.03 

45.64 
46.71 
51.35 
52.66 
57.58 
60.73 
63 00 
01.16 
59 33 
55.129 
49.03 
50.92 



Temperature for Month 



Max. Min. Mean 



67.50 
67.00 
68.66 
67.66 
62.33 
58.33 

62.33 
62.66 
66.66 
68.00 
68.00 
68.33 
72.66 
66.66 
66.66 
60.66 
58.66 
63.66 

57.00 
58.66 
60.66 
63.33 
66.00 
67.00 
68.00 
69.33 
73.00 
64.33 
31.00 
58.33 



61.13 
61.33 
58.33 
55.00 
40.33 
49.33 

45.00 
52.00 
48.00 
58.00 
58.00 
62.66 
63.33 
61 00 
58.33 
52.33 
45.33 
45.00 

38.66 
41.66 
49.66 
52.66 
55.33 
60.00 
62.66 
60.66 
60.00 
52.66 
46.00 
46.66 



65.20 
64.85 
61.60 
59.55 
51.13 
53.87 

53.67 

56.28 
56.82 
02.26 
62.74 
64.92 
66.42 
63.59 
61.96 
57.29 
51.64 
51.00 

46.75 
51.52 
54.29 
57.78 
60.51 
63.24 
65.38 
63.82 
63.26 
58.64 
52 . 58 
53.13 



Rainfall 
Inches. 



.40 

5.47 

2.85 
2.07 
1.55 
1.55 

'.'20 



.60 
1.20 
2.13 

1.50 
2.52 
5.64 
1.57 



1.67 

1.02 

.86 



Prevailing 
Wind. 



Northwest. 

Southwest. 

West. 

Northwest. 

Northwest. 

South. 

South. 

West. 

Northwest. 

West. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

Calm. 

West. 

Southwest. 

West. 

Northwest. 

West. 

West. 

West. 

West. 

South. 

South. 

Southwest. 

Southwest. 

South. 

South. 



114 CALIFORNIA. 

The Landscape of the Surrounding Country is charming- 
ly picturesque, presenting, in great diversity of scene, hand- 
some pine and oak-clad mountain slopes, shady glens, and 
beautiful streams and lakes. Excellent roads and the match- 
less climate invite its fullest enjoyment. 

THE HOTEL DEL MONTE.— I have visited nearly 
all of the most extensive, costly and elegant caravansaries in 
this country, including those of the great Atlantic watering- 
places, and none have filled my mind with such impressions 
of perfect architectural beauty of design and finish through- 
out as the Hotel del Monte. It is built in the modern 
gothic style, 385 feet in length, 115 feet in width, three 
stories high, with lofty towers, broad halls, corridors and 
verandas; an office 42x48 feet, reading room 24x26 feet, 
ladies' billiard room 25x62 feet, ladies' parlor 34x42 feet, 
ball-room 36x72 feet, dining-room 45x70 feet, kitchen 33x40 
feet, and 89 suites, in all 300 rooms, all large, light and airy, 
and richly furnished throughout; lighted with gas, and sup- 
plied with excellent artesian water, hot and cold baths, and 
all the modern conveniences. 

A bowling alley, smoking room, and a livery of hand- 
some equipages, occupy separate and perfectly appointed 
buildings. The hotel grounds, comprising 126 acres, natu- 
rally very beautiful, have been made a Garden of Paradise 
by the skillful landscape gardener, Mr. Ulrich. Winding 
avenues, shaded by the native forest oaks and pines, and 
transplanted evergreen in great variety, and white gravelly 
walks lead to the hotel, surrounded by the greenest and 
cleanest of lawns, perpetually blooming flower gardens, 
fountains and arbors, delightful croquet, lawn tennis and 
archery grounds, and plats spread with the clean white sand 
for the frolics of the children. Excellent macadamized 
roads extend for miles over the hotel company's property, 
which embraces a tract of seven thousand acres. 

The bathing establishment is by far, the most extensive 
and complete on the Pacific Coast, containing 210 dressing 
and shower bath rooms, affording not only unsurpassed ad- 
vantages for open sea and surf bathing on the splendid 



116 CALIFORNIA. 

beach, but comprising also four great swimming tanks, 
erected in a spacious pavilion, filled with 275,000 gallons of 
salt water, and heated by steam to any desired temperature. 

OBJECTS AND PLACES OP INTEREST. 

The Euins op the San Carlos Mission, founded by Father 
Junipero Serra in 1770, lie about four miles from Monterey. 
It is a massive, imposing structure, surmounted by two 
great towers, and occupying a maguificent site. Its church- 
yard contains the remains of Father Serra and mauy of the 
Governors of the Province. 

This was one of the most prosperous of the Mission es- 
tablishments, its possessions, at one time, comprising 90,000 
cattle, 50,000 sheep, 2000 horses, 370 yoke of oxen, and a 
large amount of specie. 

The old mission and government buildings, the Cuartel, 
Fort, Custom house, Block house, Colton Hall, Commissariat 
and Catholic Church, the landing place of Father Serra, and 
whaling stations, all in town, and Point Pinos Moss Beach, 
Seal Rocks, Pebble Beach, Point Lobos, Pacific Grove Re- 
treat, and Cypress Point, from one to ten miles therefrom, 
are other objects and places of interest. 

THE PACIFIC GROVE RETREAT. This most de- 
lightful summer and winter resort is beautifully situated on 
the magnificent bay of Monterey, about two and a half miles 
from the Hotel del Monte. 

The grounds, comprising several hundred acres, are 
finely wooded with handsome pine, tastefully laid out into 
avenues, blocks and lots, and very extensively improved 
with hotels, cottages, tents, bathing and boating houses, 
chapel, livery, store, drives, walks, croquet grounds, swings, 
and all the other appurtenances of a great watering place. 

In addition to an abundant supply of excellent fresh 
water, there is a mineral spring of valuable medicinal prop- 
erties. 

It is the design of the managers to establish here a sea- 
side resort where, added to all the charms and pleasures of 
life on the sea-shore, in this matchless climate, are the com- 



P AC IF fC GROVE RETREAT. 



117 



forts and security of Christian homes. The sale of intoxi- 
cating liquors is strictly prohibited, and such excellent order 
and quiet prevails, that hundreds live in open tents in per- 
fect safety. 




THE PACIFIC GROVE RETREAT. 



The Grove is open the year round, and is one of the most 
popular health and pleasure resorts on the Pacific Coast. 

Elegant four-horse coaches run, at short intervals, be- 
tween the Grove and Monterey and the Hotel del Monte. 



118 CALIFORNIA. 

I improved a rainy day, by visiting 

THE MONTEREY WHALING STATION, situated 
within a mile of the Hotel del Monte, the principal one on 
the California Coast. The Hump-back, California Gray, 
and Eight Whales are captured in considerable num- 
bers, as many as seventy-six in a single year, by the Mon- 
terey Company, yielding from 25 to 100 barrels of oil each. 
They run from October to April, and when sighted by the 
watchman — always on the lookout in clear weather — the 
whalers, all hardy Portuguese, man their boats, six in each, 
and give chase. They are usually overtaken about six miles 
from the shore, and harpooned in the heart by a swivel gun 
or bomb lance, at a distance of ten fathoms, hauled on the 
beach, and the blubber cut out. 

It is always an intensely exciting and not infrequently 
an extremely perilous occupation. Sometimes a wounded 
whale will dash off, or dive with great velocity to a greater 
distance than the length of the harpoon rope, dragging the 
boat and crew after him, unless it is cut with unerring 
promptness. In their dying struggles, they also sometimes 
lash the ocean with terrific force, tossing high in the air the 
boats which have ventured within range. 

SANTA CEUZ COUNTY, extending from the bay of 
Monterey northward about forty miles, with an. extreme 
width of fifteen miles, is next entered. It contains about 
320,000 acres of diversified country, embracing the fertile 
valleys of Francas, Waddles, San Lorenzo, Soquel, Aptos, 
Yalencia and Pajaro, its principal streams, the rich terraced 
slopes and foot-hills of the Santa Cruz Mountains, and the 
extensive and valuable forests covering their summits. The 
population is about 16,000; Santa Cruz, Watsonville, Soquel, 
Aptos, Felton and Lorenzo being the most important places. 

Fording the Salinas River near Blanco, I proceeded about 
48 miles via Castroville, Moss Landing and Aptos, to 

SANTA CRUZ, the second most popular watering place 
on the Pacific Coast. Though temporarily partially eclipsed 
by the palatial splendor of the hotel accommodations of its 



SANTA CRUZ. 119 

beautiful neighbor, it has lost none of the unsurpassed 
climate, scenic and ocean attractions and advantages which, 
until the erection of the magnificent Hotel del Monte, made 
it the great sea-side resort of California. It is finely situated, 
with a Southern exposure, on the north shore of Monterey 
Bay, about 80 miles south of San Francisco. Surrounded 
on the north, northwest and east by picturesque rolling and 
mountainous country, covered with handsome forests of pine 
and redwood, the latter embracing the famous "Big Tree 
Groves," it is well protected from the harsh north winds 
which sweep down the coast, especially during the winter 

months. 

The climate, for equability and salubrity, is unsurpassed ; 
the mean temperature, during the winter months being 52°, 
and summer 60°; 88° and 31° above, indicating the extremes 
for a term of years. Though so mild that flowers bloom 
throughout the year, and snows are unknown, except in the 
distant mountain tops, the atmosphere is stimulating and 
free from all malaria. 

The mean annual rainfall between October and May is 
about 23 inches, which, with the precipitation of moisture 
from the ocean, clothes the forests, fields and gardens of 
this coast county with green verdure, when all is parched and 
dried up with heat in the interior valleys. 

There are fine bathing beaches, excellent bath-houses, 
and first-class hotel accommodations. 

The surrounding country, within a radius of twenty 
miles, abounds in places of great natural beauty and in- 
terest, and affords good deer, rabbit and quail hunting, and 

trout fishing. 

After visiting the splendid beaches of Santa Cruz, San 
Lorenzo, Moore's, the race track, the light-house and its mu- 
seum, all near town, then there is the Natural Bridge, Happy 
Valley, Soquel Beach, Camp Capitola, and the Big Tree 
Grove, within five miles; Aptos Hotel and Sea-side Cot- 
tages, seven miles; The Magnetic Spring, nine miles; Pebbly 
Beach, ten miles; Castle Eock, twelve miles; Scott Creek 
Falls, nineteen miles; and many other pleasant places of 
resort less than a day's drive distant. 



THE HOTELS OF SANTA CRUZ. 



121 



THE PACIFIC OCEAN HOUSE, E. J. Swift, propri- 
etor, is one of the largest, best appointed and managed 
hotels on the Southern coast, first class in all respects. It 
is centrally and pleasantly situated on the main thorough- 
fare of the city, within two blocks of the railway station, 
with street cars passing every few minutes for the splendid 
beach. There are one hundred rooms, large, light and airy. 




THE PACIFIC OCEAN HOUSE. 

E. J. SWIFT, - - PROPRIETOR 



The grounds are extensive and well improved, with croquet 
games, swings, etc., etc. A free coach carries passengers 
to and from all trains and steamers. The Bonner Livery 
Stable, A. P. Swanton, proprietor, is on Pacific avenue, nearly 
opposite, and Daniel's Transfer Express office close at hand 
on Pacific avenue, opposite Locust street. 



THE DOUGLAS HOUSE, A. H. Douglas, proprietor, 
— the only hotel on the beach — is a large three-story house, 
beautifully situated immediately on the sea-shore, command- 
ing a splendid view of the Bay of Monterey and close to 
steamer landings, railway and street car stations, and excel- 
lent bathing facilities. There is a billiard and reading 
room, the apartments are spacious and sunny, and accom- 
modations throughout first class. A free coach runs to and 
from the hotel. 



122 



CALIFORNIA. 



WILKINS HOUSE, P. V. WilMns, proprietor. This 
first class hotel, especially commended as a quiet family re- 
sort, is located on Pacific avenue, one block from the busi- 
ness center, convenient to railway depots and steamer 
landings. Street cars run to the magnificent ocean beach 
every ten minutes. The house is surrounded by handsome 
floAver gardens, croquet grounds, swings, etc., and con- 
tains a large assembly hall, billiard table, piano, etc., free 
to all guests. The rooms are in both suits and single, large 
and sunny, and the table supplied with all the delicacies of 
the season. A free carriage from all trains to the house. 




THE WILKTXS HOUSE. 

'ILKINS, - PROPRIETOR. 



THE SEA-SIDE HOME is a delightful summer and 
winter resort, finely situated immediately on the shore of 
Monterey Bay, close to steamer landing, and all railway 
depots and street car lines. The main building, with sev- 
eral cosy cottage additions, under the excellent management of 
Mrs. Frank Lewis, a survivor of the ill-fated Donner party, 
affords first-class accommodations for seventy guests the 
year round. The " Home " has a Southern sunny exposure, 
facing the splendid beach, where there are excellent facili- 
ties for bathing, boating and fishing. 



SAN JOSE. 123 

Taken for a Highwayman. — It is about 38 miles over 
the mountains from Santa Cruz to San Jose, and was quite 
dark when I began to descend into the beautiful Santa Clara 
Valley toward the Garden City. Its enterprising citizens, 
unbeknown to me, were experimenting with an electric light, 
which, from its lofty tower, I mistook for a light-house, and 
changed my course. Soon after I came to cross roads, and 
not knowing which to take, reined up my horse to inquire of 
the driver of a covered wagon approaching. Almost instan- 
taneous with the sound of my voice, crack ! crack ! went the 
whip, and away flew the team for dear life. 

At midnight I reached the pretty village of Santa Clara, 
and sought lodging for the night. A policeman volunteered 
to show me a good place, which, finding to be a private 
residence, I asked: 

"Is there no hotel in San Jose?" 

"This is not San Jose, but Santa Clara," he replied. 

Again mounting my horse and following down the rail- 
way three miles, I reached the new light-house of 

SAN JOSE, just after the lights had been turned out. 
This beautiful city is situated 49 miles south of San Fran- 
cisco, in the heart of the rich Santa Clara Valley, surrounded 
by orchards, vineyards, and the delightful homes of a happy 
people. It contains at present a population of about 20,000, 
many handsome blocks and residences, and splendid parks 
and avenues. Its principal hotels are the Auzerais House, 
E. Dell wig, proprietor; Pacific Hotel, 373 and 375 Market 
street, Chas. M. Schiele, proprietor; Bass House, 444 First 
street, John Barry, proprietor; Lick House, corner First and 
San Fernando streets (terms, $1.50 to $2 per day), C. H. 
Corey and L. K. Roberts, proprietors. 

From San Jose I rode through Menlo Park, Redwood, 
San Mateo and Millbrae to San Francisco, passing the ele- 
gant country seats of Leland Stanford, James C. Flood, Moses 
Hopkins, William Sharon, D. O. Mills, and many other 
magnificent estates. 



124 CALIFORNIA. 

EXCURSIONS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 

Trip No. 1. — From San Francisco to the Yosemite Valley and 
the Mariposa Big Trees, via Madera, Fresno Flats and, 
Clark's. Bound trip, 650 miles. 

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY deservedly occupies the 
first place in the mind of the tourist in the New World. It 
lies in the heart of the Sierra Nevada mountains, about 155 
miles southeast of San Francisco, and was first discovered 
by white men in 1850, while pursuing the hostile Indians 
who lived in this mountain stronghold. 

In 1851-2 they were again followed into the valley and 
severely punished by volunteers, under command of Cap- 
tain Boling, and others. 

During the next few years it was visited by a few adven- 
turous, prospectors and hunters, when, in 1855, Mr. Hutch- 
ings, now the Guardian of the Valley, hearing of its wonders, 
against the advice of his friends, guided by two trusty In- 
dians, made the journey through the then trackless forest, 
became the pioneer tourist to the Yosemite, and gave to the 
world its first published description. 

Its fame soon spread abroad, a trail was made into the 
valley the following year, temporary hotels opened, and 
though the trip involved a severe and hazardous horseback 
ride of over one hundred miles, attracted from year to year 
such an increasing number of visitors from all parts of the 
world, that in 1864 Congress granted the valley, including a 
tract fifteen miles in length and extending back one mile 
from the brink of the mountain wall immediately surround- 
ing it, to the State of California, conditioned that it be 
forever held for public use, resort and recreation, ten-year 
leases therein given, and the proceeds thereof expended in 
its improvement. The State accepted the trust, placed it in 
charge of Commissioners, who, by purchasing private toll 
trails and making them free, building new and excellent 
carriage roads and fine substantial bridges, encouraging the 
erection of comfortable hotels, have greatly facilitated travel 
thereto and therein, and by the extinguishment of private 
claims, preserved this unique creation intact for the wonder 
and admiration of future generations. 



■II 



i IS 




126 CALIFORNIA. 

The valley is about eight miles in length, from one -hall' 
to a mile in width, 3950 feet above the sea, containing about 
1141 acres, 745 of which are meadow. It is enclosed by a 
wall of granite, from 2500 to 3300 feet in height, in many 
places perpendicular and surrounded by mountains rising 
from 2000 to 4000 feet higher, or 10,000 feet above the sea 
level. 

Down these mountain walls plunge half a score of cata- 
racts in early spring-time, leaping from 400 to 2600 feet at a 
bound, into the beautiful valley beneath, their united waters 
forming the main Merced, which courses gracefully among 
the handsome forest trees at their base. 

The following comprise the most important mountain 
peaks and waterfalls of the Yosemite : 

MOUNTAINS. 

Indian Name. Signification. American Name. Height. 

Feet. 

Tu-tock-a-nula Great Chief of the Valley. El Gapitan 3300 

Po-see-nah-chuck-ka . Large Acorn Cache Cathedral Bocks 26G0 

Pom-pom-pasus Mountains playing 1 eap frog . Three Brothers 3830 

Wah-wah-lena Three Graces 3400 

Loya.-, The Watch Tower Sentinel Rock 3043 

Loya The Signal Station Sentinel Dome 4500 

Hunto Washington Column . 1875 

To-koy-aa Shade to Indian baby basket. .North Dome 3568 

Tis-sa-ack Goddess of the Valley South Dome 4737 

Glacier Point 3257 

Mah-tu Martyr Mountain Cap of Liberty 3100 

Clouds Eest 6000 

Mount Starr King 5600 

WATEB-FALLS. 

Po-ho-no Spirit of the evil wind Bridal Veil 900 

Yosemite Large Grizzly Bear .'Yosemite 2526 

(Upper fall 1500, middle fall 600, lower 400 feet.) 

Loya Sentinel Falls 3270 

To-koy-re Shade to Indian baby basket . . Eoyal Arch Falls . . 1000 

Lung-oo-too-koo-ya . . . Long and Slender Virgin tears 3306 

To-lool-we-ack Rushing Water South Fork Falls . . 500 

Pi-wa-ack Cataract of Diamonds Vernal 400 

Yo-wi-ye Meandering . Nevada 600 

The paintings of the great masters and the most eloquent 
descriptions, had given me but a faint conception of the un- 
speakable grandeur and glory of the scene which met my 



THE TOSEMITE VALLEY. 127 

gaze from Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, South Dome, 
Clouds Rest and Inspiration Point, of this greatest of God's 
wonder lands. Here lie, within range of the unaided 
vision, more stupendous, sublime and beautiful forms of 
nature than can be found elsewhere upon the globe. Moun- 
tains in all their towering majesty, water-falls of wondrous 
beauty, charming valleys, crystal streams and gleaming- 
lakelets, and the giant monarchs of the forest, unite in pre- 
senting a spectacle as far surpassing the most brilliant im- 
aginings, as God is above his creatures. 

The mind can compass the greatest works of human 
hands, but pile the Egyptian Pyramids, St. Peters of Rome, 
the Cathedral of Strasburg and the Capitol at Washington, 
one upon another at the foot of El Capitan, and then stand- 
ing upon the top, look up two thousand feet into the face of 
this mountain-god, cast the eyes for miles along the dizzy 
summits, follow the plunging cataracts into the beautiful 
valley beneath, trace the winding river, and then spanning the 
awful chasm, survey the grand old peaks which live among 
the clouds beyond, and who can imagine or measure the 
grandeur and beauty of this most sublime architecture of 
the Master Builder ! 

There are at present three routes to the valley, via Stock- 
ton, Milton, Calaveras Grove and Murphy's, Merced, Mari- 
posa and Clark's, and via Madera and Clark's; respectively 
300, 243, and 275 miles from San Francisco. 

The latter, a splendid mountain road, amidst the most 
magnificent scenery, is the favorite route. The last 70 miles 
was built by Mr. A. H. Washburn, in 1874-5, for the Yo- 
semite Turnpike Company, of which he is the able superin- 
tendent. 

Prior to its opening, tourists via Clark's rode into the 
valley horseback from Mariposa, a distance of 53 miles. 
The old timers relate how that poor Horace Greeley, with 
the delicate skin of a woman, after making this trip had to 
be lifted from the saddle, and oiled and bandaged like a 
helpless infant. 

Mr. Washburn has also just completed a branch road 
from Chincopin Junction, 14 miles to Glacier Point, for the 



128 CALIFORNIA. 

convenience of those tourists who desire to see the most in 
the least possible time. The Company run daily lines of 
excellently equipped six-horse Kimball coaches from Ma- 
dera, employing none but the most experienced, skillful and 
temperate drivers. Such great care is exercised in this re- 
spect, that accidents seldom occur, the present regular 
drivers having the remarkable record of never harming a 
passenger, though the veteran driver Dowst has held the reins 
continuously for 30 years on the Pacific coast, and George 
Monroe, a colored man, 14 years for the Company. Mr. 
Dowst, an intelligent, sociable man, who takes great pleasure 
in giving all possible information concerning the points and 
objects of interest en route, told me that he had taken two 
stage loads of people into the valley who never asked him a 
single question, though he was almost aching to have them; 
but that a strange horse never failed to manifest its sensi- 
bility to the striking grandeur of the scenery by a prouder 
carriage, higher step and head, and wondering eyes. 

Taking the 4 p. m. train of the C. P. R. R. at Oakland, 
and supper at the Lathrop Hotel, Stackpole & Lincoln, 
proprietors, we arrived at Madera, 185 miles from San 
Francisco, about 11:50 p. m., where good accommodations 
are found at Mace's Hotel for those who prefer not to re- 
main in the sleeping car until morning. Captain Mace, the 
jovial host, of 330 pounds weight, is a fitting introduction to 
the big sights coming. The stage leaves at 7 a. m. and rolls 
away rapidly 14 miles across the level plains before beginning 
the gradual ascent of the western slope of the Sierras. The 
great lumber flume of the Madera Flume and Trading Com- 
pany, which extends for 56^ miles up into the mountain for- 
ests, carrying 150 miner's inches, and 154,000 feet of lumber 
its entire length in twelve hours, keeps us company. Over 
the handsome rolling foothills, sparsely wooded with live 
oak and pine trees, through Ralls ville, changing horses at 
Dustin's, we stopped for a good dinner at the 

Coakse Gold Gulch Hotel, kept by Mr. John Krohn, 
36 miles from Madera, and 30 miles from Clark's, The 
elevation is 2250 feet, climate most healthful and enjoyable, 



YO SEMITE HOTELS. 129 

and water excellent. Proceeding with fresh horses through 
the mining town of 

DUTCH FLAT, the woods gradually thicken with yellow 
pine and cedar, until reaching the divide, at an elevation of 
i500 feet we enter the borders of the magnificent forest of 
sugar pine which covers the summits of these mountains. 
One which I measured was 30 feet in circumference, straight 
as an arrow, and over 200 feet in height. 

Here we halted a few moments for a refreshing drink from 
a spring of excellent water near the Surveyor's camp of 

The United States Oenteal Railway, of which Colonel 
Lyman Bridges, a member of our party, is Chief Engineer. 
This railway is projected and located from San Francisco to 
Denver via the Big Trees, and proposes to complete its line 
to near this point the coming year, thus enabling tourists to 
go within twenty miles of the Yosemite Valley by rail, at a 
saving of the 150 miles of staging, as by the present route. 

The company claim that their line will be 200 miles 
shorter, between Denver and San Francisco, than any other, 
and pass through a region of unparalleled scenery, con- 
taining very extensive and rich deposits of gold, silver, lead, 
iron, coal and salt, and the greatest body of valuable timber 
in the interior of the continent. 

About 6 o'clock, we reached 

CLARK'S OR THE WAWONA HOTEL, Washburn & 
Co., proprietors, beautifully situated on the banks of the South 
Merced, one of the most delightful mountain resorts I have 
ever seen. It is named from Galen Clark, who formerly 
kept the station, a pioneer of the Yosemite and its first guar- 
dian. 

The property embraces a magnificent tract of nine hun- 
dred acres, with extensive hotel and cottage buildings, oc- 
cupying a pleasant, sunny slope, surrounded by the grandest 
forest and mountain scenery in the world. 

The great Mariposa Grove of Big Trees is only six miles 
distant, the beautiful falls of Chindualdo about three, and 
Signal Peak, commanding one of the most extensive and 
sublime views, within an hour's ride. 



130 CALIFORNIA. 

The forests abound with game, the streams with trout, 
and the mountain air and water is delicious. 

At an early hour the following morning, we were off for 
the Valley, a glorious ride of twenty-six miles. 

Following the south fork of the Merced eight miles to 
Lookout Point, we obtain a fine view of Signal Peak, the 
canon of the Merced, and the distant valley of the San 
Joaquin, then crossing Deer Creek and over the summit at 
an elevation of 6700 feet, descend a short distance to Chin- 
copin Junction, where taking the new Glacier Point road, by 
Badger Pass, Paragon Meadows, crossing the old Mono 
trail, near Point Washburn, we reach the summit of Sentinel 
Dome in time to see the sun set upon the sublimest spectacle 
which ever met the gaze of man. 

THE GLACIEE POINT HOTEL, by James McCauley, 
perched only a few rods from the brink of this awful 
precipice, affords a good clean bed, excellent table fare, and 
commands all the grandest views of the Valley, and the best 
of Nevada and Vernal Falls. A good trail leads to Sentinel 
Dome, one and a quarter miles distant, 950 feet higher, 
and another, built by Mr. McCauley, four miles into the 
Valley, 3200 feet below. Descending the latter, a most ex- 
cellent work, stopping by the way to survey the enchanting 
views from Union and other points, in about two hours I 
was eating delicious mountain trout at 

LEIDIG'S HOTEL, the first reached in the Valley, en- 
tering by Inspiration Point, the customary route. It 
is a commodious two-story building, admirably situated, 
fronting the wonderful Yosemite Falls, under the shadow of 
Sentinel Rock, 3270 feet above. It occupies historic ground, 
the site of the first house erected in the Valley, by G. A. 
Hite, in 1856. There are good accommodations for thirty 
guests, at the usual rates, $1 per day. Yosemite Falls are 
three and a half miles, Sentinel Dome five and a half, Ver- 
nal Falls five, Nevada Falls six, South Dome eight, and 
Clouds' Rest, thirteen miles distant. 

Proceeding up the valley past the pleasant studio of 
Fisk, the pioneer photographic artist of the Yosemite, 



YOSEMITE HOTELS. 131 

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY HOUSE, J. J. Cook, propri- 
etor, is soon reached. It is centrally and admirably situated, 
commanding the grandest views, the Yosemite Fails and Eagle 
Peak in front, Sentinel Peak and Dome, Union and Glacier 
Points in the rear. The buildings are quite commodious 
and comfortable, embracing separate cottages, a hot and 
cold bath-house, post-office, Wells Fargo Express and a well- 
furnished livery of carriage and saddle horses. This is one 
of the most popular houses in the Yosemite, convenient to 
all its points of greatest interest and the objective and start- 
ing place of all the stages of the Yosemite Turnpike Com- 
pany, of which Mr. Cook is agent. Visitors will find here 
the best of fare and the most courteous attention. A half 
mile further brings us to 

BAENAED'S YOSEMITE FALLS HOTEL, John K. 
Barnard, proprietor, which with its large main building and 
elegant cottages, fine bathing establishment, billiard and read- 
ing rooms, post and stage offices, artists' studios and fine livery, 
forms quite a village, the principal business center of the 
valley. It is situated immediately on the banks of the 
beautiful Merced, here spanned by a handsome iron bridge, 
affords excellent accommodations for 150 guests, and com- 
mands the grandest views of the valley. The original Hatch- 
ings House has been converted into a beautiful parlor and 
sitting room. The latter is built around the base of a splen- 
did specimen of yellow pine, 7| feet in diameter and 175 in 
height, and with its old fashioned fire-place and furnishings 
has all the charms of a bivouac in the wild woods, with the 
added comforts and pleasures of home. Adjoining Bar- 
nard's is 

THE COSMOPOLITAN, E. S. Utter, proprietor, an ele- 
gant bathing establishment, reading and billiard parlors and 
hair dressing rooms for both ladies and gentlemen, the most 
complete found outside of the great cities. There are fine hot 
and cold bath rooms, finely carpeted and appointed through- 
out. Many of the furnishings are really extravagant. The 



132 



CALIFORNIA. 




YOSEMITE HOTELS. 



133 



office safe is magnificent, an album holds a thousand pic- 
tures, and 

The Great Yosemite Eegister is a wonder, 2 feet long 
and 8 inches thick, weighing 118 pounds, containing 15,500 
autographs, beginning withE. J. or "Lucky" Baldwin's, and 




including those of the most distinguished visitors from our 
own and foreign countries, together with their remarks upon 
the Yosemite. President Garfield, under date of May 15, 
1875, says : 

" No one can thoughfully study this valley and its surroundings, without 
being broader minded hereafter." J. A. G. 



134 



CALIFORNIA. 



Joseph Cook, June 7th, 1879 : 

" The hills of God support the skies, 
To God let adoration rise ; 
Let hills and skies and heavenly host, 
Praise Father, Son and Holy Ghost." 
" Best outlook, Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome." 

Count de Alexis, July 20th, 1874: 

" I can dare say that, during the time of my young life, I never had any 
better baths than at this place. Our Russian friends will find that it beats 
every one of our bathing accommodations." 

There is no end of poetic efforts, most of which are lit- 
erary curiosities, worthy of inspection. Mr. Utter has re- 
fused a thousand dollars for the volume. 

Three miles beyond Barnard's, by an excellent carriage 
road, one up the wild canon of Tenaya, lies the charming 
Mirror Lake which, early in the day, before the breezes 
ripple its handsome face, reflects the grandest scenery of the 
globe, South Dome and the neighboring peaks. Its greatest 
depth I found, by several soundings, to be about twenty feet. 

Then following up the Merced by a good trail three 
miles, I reached 

SNOWS, the most picturesque in situation of all these 

mountain resorts, 
built upon a bench 
of granite, at the 
base of the Cap of 
Liberty, under the 
spray of the mag- 
nificent Nevada 
Falls, overlooking 
the beautiful Ver- 
nal, and across the 
awful chasm of Yo- 
semite, up to the 
towering heights of 
Glacier Point and 
Sentinel Dome. 

All of the lumber 
for a very comfort- 
able hotel, 100 feet 




LIBERTY CAP (MT. BKODER1CK.) 



YO SEMITE HOTELS. 



135 



in length, and a sixteen room cottage with bed-rooms hand- 
somely paneled with sugar pine by Mr. Snow, were packed 
over the mountains upon the backs of mules. 

When Mrs. Snow, the excellent hostess and housekeeper, 
came to take possession of her mountain home, thirteen 
years ago, no bridges had been built, and she was carried 
over the foaming Merced in the arms of her husband, and 
her young daughter, in like manner, by a stalwart young 
man, her betrothed lover. 

Six miles more, and then a climb by rope hand over 
hand, of 900 feet, at an angle ef 45°, and I stood npon the 
summit of South Dome, one of the grandest pinnacles on 
earth. Its first ascent was made by Geo. Anderson, Oct. 
12th, 1875. It should only be undertaken by those strong 
of limb and nerve, until rests have been provided for pro- 
tection, in case of accident. 

Following the divide eastward about three miles, scaling 
the intervening peaks, at 4 o'clock I surveyed from the top of 
Clouds Rest all that is grandest of the Sierras —Mounts Starr 

King, Hayes and Clark, Red 
Mountain and Pyramid Peaks 
of the Obelisk Group, and 
sweeping southward and then 
westward, all of the sublime 
peaks surrounding the won- 
derful Yosemite. 

Having left Cook's on foot in 
the morning, I was well satis- 
fied to descend the mountains 
to Snow's for the night. 

I returned down the Vernal 
Falls ladders, built by Mr. 
Snow, for the pedestrian trail 
which unites with the horse- 
back trail at Register Rock. 
The pleasure tourist should 
take two or three days to make the 
ascent, horseback from the valley, of 
either South Dome or Clouds Rest. 

DOWN VERNAL FALLS. 




136 CALIFORNIA. 

The Yosemite Woods. — The forest trees of the valley are 
chiefly pine, cedar, tamrack, spruce, black and live oak, the 
largest being a sugar pine eight feet in diameter, growing on 
the bank of the Merced River. Silver fir, mountain mahog- 
any, laurel, spicewood, juniper, manzanita and arrow wood 
are also distributed through it. Mr. Adolph Sinning, a 
very skillful resident workman, manufactures exceedingly 
fine Yosemite curiosities, cabinet and fancy articles from all 
these different varieties. His Yosemite Chess Table is a 
masterpiece, representing upwards of 100 kinds of woods 
growing within a radius of 50 miles. 

The Climate and Pkoductions of the Yosemite. — Inter- 
views with the pioneers of the valley, Hutchings, Leidig, 
McCauley, Cunningham, Snow, Sinning and Harris, resi- 
dents of from ten to twenty years, show that the extremes of 
temperature are about 2° below and 94° above zero; snow- 
fall, two to seven feet, about four feet being the average, 
commencing from the 1st to the 10th of November, and last- 
ing until April and sometimes to the latter part of May. The 
streams are fullest in May and June, which is the best time 
to see the water-falls of the Yosemite. 

Vegetables and apples, plums, raspberries, blackberries 
and strawberries are grown in abundance. Mr. Harris 
raised about twenty tons of apples last year. The first 
orchard was set out by J. Gr. Lemon, deceased, who made 
the first permanent settlement in the valley, in 1860. 

The Hunters of the Yosemite. — The forests of the 
Sierras abound in bear, deer, wolf, coyote, fox, coon, grouse 
and other small game. At Barnard's I found John Johnson, 
who has killed sixty bear, skinning a 700-pound grizzly, 6^ 
feet in length, and a cinnamon bear, just brought in. Soon 
after I met another great hunter, Jim Duncan, who has slain 
over eighty bear, and deer without number. 

The Aetists of the Valley. — I pity the artist of genius 
who attempts to represent upon canvass the glorious scenery 
of the Yosemite, and can fully appreciate the feelings of 
those eloquent writers who have candidly confessed their 
utter inability to fitly portray its matchless wonders. Every- 



THE MARIPOSA BIG TREES. 137 

body is familiar with the master-pieces of Bierstadt. Mrs. 
Snow related to me that, when he was painting the magnifi- 
cent Nevada Falls from their place, when there were a large 
number of visitors, no one responded to the ring of the 
dinner bell. Going into the parlor, she found the whole 
party surrounding the great artist and his work. She stood 
admiring with the rest for a moment, and then said good 
naturedly to Mr. Bierstadt: ''If you don't put away your 
painting, we'll never get through with our dinner in the 
world" Of course he yielded to such a complimentary 
appeal. 

Mr. Thomas Hill, whose $25,000 painting, "Driving the 
Last Spike," $6000 "Dormer Lake" and $5000 " Yosemite," 
won him the Centennial first medal and a national reputation, 
has made the Yosemite his great study for the last twenty 
years. From his pretty studio are seen its sublimest views. 

Fisk, the well known photographer, has a very extensive 
collection of Yosemite views, comprising 250 Summer and 
75 Winter scenes. Watkins, Taber, and Houseworth, of San 
Francisco, also have large collections of Y r osemite views. 

THE HETCH-HETCHY VALLEY.— Another wonder- 
ful valley, known as the Hetch-Hetchy, is situated on the 
Tuolumne Kiver, about sixteen miles north of the Yosemite, 
at an elevation of 3650 feet above the sea. It is about three 
miles in length, and from one-eighth to five-eighths of a 
mile in width, with perpendicular granite walls in places 
upwards of 2000 feet in height. There are numerous re- 
markable waterfalls, the Tu-e-eu-la-lah leaping nearly a 
thousand feet, and a cascade of exceeding grandeur de- 
scending 1700 feet almost perpendicular. The route thereto 
is via the C. P. R. B., Lithrop, Stockton, Milton and Big 
Oak Flat, Colfax; Springs and Hog Ranch, the last ten miles 
by a good horseback trail. 

THE MARIPOSA BIG TREES.— These great natural 
wonders of the Sierras, also a Government reservation of 
four sections, granted to the State of California upon the 
same conditions as the Yosemite, are about sixteen miles 



138 CALIFORNIA. 

southeast of the valley and six miles from Clark's, or the 
Wawona Hotel. 

There are two groves, the upper containing 365 of the 
sequoia gigantae, from one foot to thirty-three feet in diam- 
eter, and the lower comprising the Grizzly Giant and other 
magnificent specimens of these forest kings. There are also 
a large number of young trees in both. The largest are 
supposed to be from one to four thousand years old. I 
measured several six or eight feet from the base, and found 
the Grizzly Giant to be 72 feet in circumference; Faithful 
Couple 67 feet; Mariposa, 66 feet, and Lafayette, 80 feet. 
Most of the trees have been greatly injured by forest fires, 
losing from five to fifteen feet of their base measurement. 

Escorted by the veteran mountaineer, Stephen Cunning- 
ham, Guardian of the Grove, mounted on tall, gaunt horses, 
whose ancient appearance suggested that they had grown up 
with the trees from striplings, we rode among them and 
through one fallen monster, by stooping just a little. 

Cunningham's Knot-Hole. — " This tree," said Cunning- 
ham, "has lost about 80 feet of its base by a forest fire. 
Before it burned, I was riding through it with a friend, 
mounted on a mule. When about half way, we saw two 
horsemen enter at the other end. 'How shall we pass?' 
anxiously inquired my companion. 'I will show you,' I 
said, and, urging my animal ahead a few steps and dis- 
mounting, climbed out through a knot-hole, leading my mule 
after me. " 

We next rode into the hollow "Keystone," which holds 
19 full-grown horses at once. Just then Washburn's Yo- 
semite Stage, which makes daily trips to the grove from 
Clark's, drove up with a full load, and I rode with them 
through the "Wanona." When the rear of the long six- 
seated stage was inside the tree, the leaders were just be- 
ginning their exit. 

The Mariposa Spring. A spring of excellent water bursts 
forth near the base of one of these wonderful trees, a little 
way from Cunningham's cabin. Some San Francisco ladies 
engaged in temperance work, recently visited the grove, and 



RIDING THROUGH THE WAWONA. 



139 




THE GREAT WAWONA. 



140 



CALIFORNIA. 



after drinking at the spring and remarking to Cunningham 
" What splendid water," were greatly 
astonished and grieved to hear him 
answer: "Yes, it is said to be .very 
good; I never use it myself, except for 
cooking and washing purposes." 
There are several other 

GROVES OF BIG TREES on 

the western slope of the Sierras, at 

elevations ranging from 4000 to 7000 

feet above the sea, the Calaveras, 

Crane Flat and Fresno groves, those 

between King and Ka- 

weah rivers and the 

north and south forks 

of the Tule River being 

the most important. 

THE CALAVERAS 
GROVE, the most nor- 
thern, is situated in Cal- 
averas county, about 44 
miles from Milton, the 
— feftegf^ terminus of the Stockton 



if^MPP^lipiiE -CTSHWr- branch of the C. P. R. 

CUNNINGHAM'S LOG CABIN, MARIPOSA GROVE. R- It WaS first disCOV- 

erecl \>y white men in 1856 and has since been visited 
by tens of thousands of tourists from all parts of the 
world. There are 90 trees, from 15 to 50 feet in diameter, 
and six miles south another grove containing over 1300 of 
these monster forest kings. Both tracts, comprising over 1000 
acres, and also the fine hotel at the Calaveras Grove, are 
owned by Mr. James L. Sperry. Tourists will find good 
teams at the St. Julian Livery Stable, Madera, Dennis 
C onroy, proprietor. 




THE BIG TREES. 




BASE OF ORIGINAL BIG TREE, CALAVERAS GROVE. 

A 




PIONEER CABIN (Room for 12 Men Inside.) 



142 



CALIFORNIA. 



Trip No. 2. — From San Francisco to Lake Tahoe, California, 
Carson and Virginia City, Nevada, Lone Pine, Indepen- 
dence and Hawley, California ; returning via Reno and 
Truckee. Round trip, 1350 miles. 

LAKE TAHOE, one of the most magnificent waters in 
the world, lies in the lap of the Sierras, 6216 feet above the 
sea, surrounded by a grand amphitheater of snow-capped 
peaks, rising from 2000 to 1000 feet higher, and fine forests 
of pine, fir and cedar. 




TRUGKEE. 143 

It is 22 miles in length, about 10 miles wide, and from 100 
to 1600 feet in depth, its emerald green waters' of such crystal 
purity and transparency that the fish with which it abounds 
may be distinctly seen eighty feet below the surface. On 
its beautiful shores are situated some of the most delightful 
summer resorts of the Pacific slope. The midsummer air is 
cool and exhilerating, the fishing and hunting excellent, the 
landscape enchanting and the sunsets glorious. 

The Trip to the Lake. — The ride from San Francisco 
through the Sierra Nevada mountains is one of great interest. 
First across the bay on the splendid ferry boat, "Oakland,'' 
affording fine views of the harbor, islands and shipping; 
then taking the train from one of the largest and most mag- 
nificent depots and ferry buildings on the continent, we catch 
glimpses of the beauty of Oakland, and 32 miles out, at Port 
Costa, ride on to the monster transfer boat, "Solano," the won- 
der of all travelers, 420 feet in length, 116 feet wide, carrying 
48 loaded cars at once. Thence 60 miles over a level, beau- 
tiful country of extensive farms, vineyards and orchards, 
past Army Point, Goodyear' s, Suisun, Cannon, Elmira, Ba- 
tavia, Dixon and Davis to Sacramento, at 7:30 p. m., for an 
excellent supper at the Silver Palace Dining Parlor, by 
Bernard Steinman, where all trains stop twenty minutes. 
Then across the plains of Sacramento, through the pleasant 
villages of Rocklin, Pino, Newcastle, Auburn, Clipper Gap 
and Colfax, in full view of the famous Gold Run and Dutch 
Flat mining camps, the grandest mountain scenery, Cape 
Horn and Donner Lake, and over the Summit to 

TRUCKEE. This, the first objective point of the 
tourist bound for Lakes Tahoe, Donner, Webber, and Inde- 
pendence, is situated on the Truckee River, at an elevation 
of 5500 feet above the sea, surrounded by very extensive and 
valuable forests of pine and fir, its principal resource. 
Founded in 1864, named after an Indian who safely guided a 
pioneer party of 1844, repeatedly swept by fires, destroying 
the principal portion, at an aggregate loss of nearly a million 
dollars, it has steadily increased in business, until a single 
firm, the Truckee Lumber Company, (Brickell & Kruger) 




A SUMMER SCENE IN THE SIERRAS. 



THE TRUCKEE HOTEL. 145 

manufacture upwards of 25,000,000 feet annually, embracing 
besides building material of all kinds, doors, sash, blinds 
and furniture, in great quantities. 

A shingle mill cuts 35,000 every twenty -hours or 500 a 
minute. 

Over 50,000 cords of wood are exported annually, mainly 
for railway use. 

It^is estimated, by competent judges, that the available 
timber of the Truckee basin exceeds 4, 003, 030,000 feet, or 
sufficient to last for upwards of a hundred years, at the 
present rate of consumption, about 50,000,000 feet annually. 

Great quantities of the purest ice is harvested on the 
neighboring lakes and streams, nearly half a million dollars 
being invested in this important industry. 

THE TRUCKEE HOTEL, Stewart McKay, proprietor, 
(also C, P. R. R. depot and general stage office) affords ex- 
cellent accommodations. There is a good restaurant at- 
tached, for the convenience of overland passengers. 

The train arrived at 4:55 a.m., and at 7 o'clock, we were off, 
by Moody's stage, for Lake Tahoe, fourteen miles distant. 
This is no ordinary affair, but a splendid six-seated easy 
coach, carrying eighteen passengers, drawn by six powerful 
well-trained horses, skillfully handled by a veteran driver. 
It runs twice daily, connecting with the C. P. R. R. train at 
Truckee, and the steamer Gov. Stanford at the lake. 

It was a glorious morning, bright and cool — a rain having 
fallen the previous evening, tempering the dry mountain air, 
fragrant with the sweet odor of the pines, to a delicious ex- 
hilerating freshness — and also effectually laying the dust for 
several miles. 

It is a magnificent drive, following up the dashing 
Truckee, a fitting outlet for the world's crowning gem of 
mountain lakes. From thirty to fifty feet in width, clear as 
crystal, pure and cold, it courses swiftly down the moun- 
tains, frequently a foaming rapid, but interrupted in its 
headlong descent by several dams, beginning with Von 
Schmidt's, near the lake. The valley is from three-quarters to 
a mile across, the mountains generally not precipitous or very 



146 



CALIFORNIA. 



high, though presenting several bold, towering granite cliffs 
and peaks from 500 to 1800 feet above the river. The most 




prominent of these, from their resemblance to the human 



TAHOE CITY. 147 

face, are known as the " old woman " and " old man " of the 
mountains, and the " Duke of Wellington." Thick forests 
of red, yellow and sugar pine, fir and cedar, extend the 
whole way, except where cleared by the wood and lumbermen. 

The great saw-mill companies are annually cutting mil- 
lions of feet of the choicest trees, having already advanced 
about eight miles up the river and back three or four miles 
therefrom. 

The lumber flumes extend from the great mills atTruckee 
to the farthest camps, and the sides of the mountains are 
grooved with log chutes. Down the former are run vast 
quantities of wood and timber, while down the latter im- 
mense logs are shot, with the velocity of thunderbolts, into 
the river. At the eight-mile crossing, a five-foot monster 
plunged in as we passed, striking a forerunner fairly end- 
wise, with terrific force, and the noise of distant thunder. 
Horse railways, and long ox-teams, are also employed in 
hauling out the logs from over the summit of the mountains. 

AROUND LAKE TAHOE WITH CAPT. TODMAN. 

Capt. J. A. Todman, of Carson City, owns the excursion 
line of steamers of Lake Tahoe. It comprises at present the 
"Niagara " and " Governor Stanford," which will be super- 
ceded another season by a much larger and finer boat, to 
accommodate the increasing travel. The " Niagara" makes 
daily trips around the lake about 50 miles, visiting all the 
points of interest and making connections with stages at 
Tahoe City for Truckee, and at Glenbrook for Carson 
City. Reaching 

TAHOE CITY, a pretty village on the west shore of the 
lake, containing a fine commodious hotel, the Grand Central, 
by A. J. Bayley, several stores, bathing and boating houses, 
we find the little steamer waiting for us. The wonderful 
clearness of the lake, its clean cut, picturesque shores and 
the grandeur of the surrounding mountains at once absorb 
the attention. 

Beginning on the right with the Rubicon mountains, 
9287 feet above the sea, and sweeping the horizon, Mount 



148 



CALIFORNIA. 



Tallac, 9715 feet in height, Mount Ralston, 9140 feet, Pyra- 
mid Peak, 10,052 feet, Job's Peak, 10,637 feet, Genoa 




Peak, 9135 feet, and the Summits of the Tahoe Range 



LAKE TATIOE. 



149 







150 CALIFORNIA. 

come successively in view. Down their steep, forest- 
covered sides swiftl}- descend numerous beautiful streams, 
Ward's Creek, Blackwood's, McKinney's Phipp's, Meek's 
Bay, Lonely Gulch, Cascade Falls, Cascade Lake, Taylor, 
Little Truckee River, Big Truckee River, Jim Small's Creek, 
Sevory Cove Creek, Glenbrook, Secret Harbor, Big, Grif- 
fin's, Cornelian Bay and Gordon's Creek comprising the 
most important. 

SUNNYSIDE. Running within sight of the extensive 
logging camp of the Central Pacific Railroad during the 
period of its construction, about four miles out we pass 
Sunnyside, the charming summer retreat of Mrs. Hays, of 
San Francisco, and other wealthy California families. 

IDLEWILD, occupying a delightful spot on the shore 
under the shadow of Eagle Bluff, lies about two miles be- 
yond. This is the summer resort of Mrs. E. B. Crocker, of 
Sacramento. The highest mountain peak in the distant 
background is known as Tinker's Knob. Then we land at 

McKINNEY'S, "The Hunters' Home," nine miles from 
Tahoe City, a handsome village of eighteen pretty brown 
cottages, situated in a beautiful pine grove immediately on 
the shore of the lake. This is one of the most popular 
mountain summer resorts of the whole Sierra region, afford- 
ing excellent accommodations for sixty guests. Game 
abounds, the trout fishing is excellent, the boating splendid 
and everybody made to feel quite at home by the genial 
host, John McKinney. A stage runs from thence ten miles 
to the Rubicon Mineral Springs. The old Georgetown trail 
also reaches the lake here. 

PHIPPS', for many years the home and hunting-ground 
of the veteran William Phipps, lies just beyond Sugar Pine 
Point, about two miles from McKinney's. At Saxton's log- 
ging camp near by, a wagon loaded with five great logs, 
drawn by seven yoke of oxen, was standing on the shore of 
the lake. 



LOAD OF SAW LOGS. 



151 




152 



CALIFORNIA. 



EMERALD BAY. The shores of Lake Tahoe are in- 
dented with beautiful bays, Crystal, Cornelian, Meeks and 




Emerald, the latter being the largest and most frequented. 
It is about 18 miles from Tahoe City, three miles long, and 



TALLAC. 153 

about half a mile in width. Ben Holladay built a summer 
residence here, which his family occupied until it was burned 
in 1879. 

Capt. Dick, an eccentric old English sailor, chose this 
wild mountain retreat for his home, built a cabin, and chis- 
eled out a tomb in the solid rock, on the lonely rock-bound 
island near the entrance. Falling overboard, while intoxi- 
cated, Lake Tahoe, which it is said, never gives up its dead, 
became his last resting-place, instead of the grave he had 
prepared. 

TALLAC. Soon we sight the handsome white hotel 
building and cottages of Tallac, occupying a charming situa- 
tion, in a splendid grove of pine, tamrack and poplar, on 
the shore of the lake, at the base of Mount Tallac. E. J. 
Baldwin, owner of the magnificent Baldwin of San Fran- 
cisco, has made very extensive and complete improve- 
ments here, his fine Hotel Tallac and cottages affording first- 
class accommodations for 150 guests. Capt. Gordon, the 
popular manager, and a throng of happy people, met us at 
the landing. Tallac lies central amidst the grandest scenery 
and the best sporting grounds of Lake Tahoe. From the 
summit of the back lying mountains, a dozen lakes are 
visible, Fallen Leaf Lake, Echo, Wright's, Potter's, Grass, 
Cascade, Gilmore Lake, and others, from 6500 to 8400 feet 
above the sea. 

The Glen Alpine Mineral Springs — soda, iron and sulphur, 
are situated seven miles from Tallac. 

Five miles further brings us to 

BOWLAND'S, a pleasant village of hotels, stores and 
farm-houses, situated in a fine grove of pines near the east 
end of the lake, surrounded by an extensive body of grazing 
and meadow lands, occupied by dairymen. Lake Valley, 
about six miles wide, extending back into the mountains ten 
or twelve miles, affords summer pasturage for 1800 cows. 

The meadows are full of geese and ducks during the 
fall and winter months. 

A stage runs twice a week from Kowland's to Placerville. 



154 



CALIFORNIA. 



Proceeding, we no longer skirt the shore of the lake, but 
pursue a direct course to 

GLENBROOK, about thirteen miles from Rowland's, 




CABSON CITY. 155 

and the same distance from Talioe City. En route, we look 
into the month of the cave at Cave Rock, and trace out the 
Shaksperian features of Shakspeare Rock — from the summit 
of which a young girl, Carrie Rice, fell a few years ago. 

Glenbrook is a very pretty village, and the principal busi- 
ness center of Lake Tahoe. It lies in Nevada, we having 
crossed the line from California about four miles out from 
Rowland's. Here is a good hotel, the Lake Shore House, 
W. A. B. Cobb, proprietor, where all stage and steamer excur- 
sionists stop for meals; a store, by J. M. Short, billiard hall, 
by F. S. Jellerson, and three large saw-mills, owned by Bliss 
& Yerrington, the wealthiest and most enterprising business 
firm of the interior. Their narrow gauge railway carries the 
lumber to the summit, a thousand feet above the lake, 
whence it and immense quantities of wood, are run in a 
great water-flume, upwards of thirty miles in length with its 
feeders, to their extensive yards at Carson City, fourteen 
miles distant. 

BY STAGE TO CAKSON. 

There are two daily lines of good stages, J.M. Benton's 
and Keyser & Elrod's, which run to Carson City upon 
the arrival of the steamer at Glenbrook. It is a splendid 
ride for several miles up the picturesque Glenbrook, over 
the Summit to Spooner's old stage station, down past the 
little inn known as Saints Rest, by the oldest mill in Neva- 
da, across Clear Creek, through the Devil's Gate into Car- 
son Valley. 

Here Jerry Bruso, the excellent driver of Benton's stage, 
points out a cluster of poplars where Lucky Bill was hung 
a few years ago by the Vigilantes for murdering and robbing 
a Frenchman from whom he had purchased a band of cattle. 

CARSON CITY, the Capital of Nevada, the location 
of the U. S. Mint, State Penitentiary and also of the 
wonderful Carson Foot Prints, will be of great interest to 
the tourist. It is situated 31 miles from Reno, on the Cen- 
tral Pacific Railroad, and 21 miles from 



156 CALIFORNIA. 

VIRGINIA. CITY. Taking the train at Carson, I pro- 
ceed to this remarkable City of the Desert, past a succession 
of the greatest mines, quartz mills and mining towns in the 
New World. I was fortunate in riding with an intelligent 
practical miner of 14 years' experience at Virginia City, who 
knew every mine, mill and shaft thoroughly. First came 
Empire City, then the Brunswick 56-stamp silver quartz 
mill, next the Eureka 60-stamp, the Vivian 16-stamp, San 
Diego 30-stamp, all run by water from the Carson River. 
Here we leave the river, and ascending a grade of from 116 
to 122 feet to the mile, look down on the right upon Silver 
City, American Flat and the wonderful city of Gold Hill. 
The bald mountains are now honey-combed in all directions 
with the mines and shafts which have poured out their mil- 
lions to enrich the few and rob tens of thousands of un- 
fortunate speculators. As rapidly as I can write we pass 
the Delaware, Baltimore, Knickerbocker, New York, Cal- 
edonia, Alta, Justice, Overman, Belcher, Crown Point, Yel- 
low Jacket group, Imperial, Ward, Savage, Chollar, Potosi, 
Hale & Norcross, Gould & Curry, Consolidated Virginia, 
California, Ophir, Mexican, Union, Sierra Nevada and 
Utah Mines, and others too numerous to mention. Of 
these the Consolidated Virginia, California, Crown Point, 
Gould & Curry, Hale & Norcross and Belcher have been 
wonderfully rich, others have paid well, but none are now 
returning dividends. 

Virginia City is not therefore in a very flourishing con- 
dition at present, but hopeful that future developments will 
bring back her former prosperity. The city is said to be 
slowly sliding down the mountains, being undermined by 
the numerous mining shafts and tunnels. The great Corn- 
stock mines, now worked to a depth of 3100 feet, will richly 
repay a visit. Virginia City has a magnificent six-story 
hotel, complete in all its appointments, A. Hanak, pro- 
prietor. 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 157 

Trip No. 2, Continued. — From the Mound House, Nevada, to 
Owens Lake, California, via Carson and Colorado Railroad; 
H. 31. Yerrington, President and Superintendent; D. A. 
Bender, General Freight and Passenger Agent. 

The Mound House, II miles from Virginia City, is the 
junction of the Carson and Colorado, with the Virginia and 
Truckee Eailroad. The Mound House is so called from 
having been built near a great earth mound. After passing- 
through several hands and being removed from its original 
site, it is now owned by Mrs. Maggie Coburn and converted 
into a comfortable lodging house. From this point the Car- 
son and Colorado Railroad Company have built and equipped 
an excellent narrow-guage railway, 296 miles south to Owens 
Lake, Inyo county, about 100 miles north of Mojave, on the 
Southern Pacific. It traverses lengthwise that great stretch 
of country lying along the eastern base of the Sierras, em- 
bracing Esmeralda County, Nevada, and Inyo County, Cal- 
ifornia. It is rich in silver, gold and copper, contains 
numerous deposits of salt, borax and sulphur, and a much 
greater extent of lands capable of cultivation than is gen- 
erally supposed. Although the average rainfall is the min- 
imum found in any portion of the United States, and the 
general aspect of the country barren and forbidding, desti- 
tute of timber and foliage, except a scattering growth of 
stunted pinion pine on the mountains, and cottonwood and 
willow along the water-courses, a fine sedimentary soil pre- 
vails in the valleys, which wherever irrigated, produces 
abundant crops of grain and fruit of all kinds. 

Following down the Carson River for about 25 miles, 
through the old mining town of Dayton, in sight of the great 
Sutro Tunnel and old Fort Churchill, the train stops for a 
good dinner at 

The Wabuska House, by E. P. ; Lovejoy, Wabuska. 
From thence the road runs along the eastern shore , of 
Walkers Lake, through the Schurz Piute Indian Reservation 
to Hawthorne, 100 miles from the Mound House and seven 
miles from the rich Mount Corey mines. A daily stage runs 
from thence to Bodie, 37 miles, and to the other principal min- 



158 GALIFOBNIA. 

ing towns of Mono county. Luning, 25 miles further, is the 
center of the Santa Fe mining district, rich in silver and 
copper. Near the Soda Springs Station, 12 miles beyond, 
there are hot soda springs and bathing facilities. The Soda 
Springs House, by J. Prescott Davis, affords good hotel ac- 
commodations. Dunlap's Copper Mine, reported very rich, 
is 15 miles distant. 

From Bellville a branch runs eight miles to Candelaria, in 
the Garfield mining district, where the most productive 
mines in this section are located, the Indian Queen, North 
Belt, Lottie, Lancashire and others. U. S. Mail stages run 
from Candelaria to Columbus, Silver Peak, Montezuma, 
Alida Valley, Gold Mountain and other points. 

Now we ascend the White Mountains by an admirable 
grade, from 120 to 134 feet to the mile, and then descend 
into the great Owens River Valley of Inyo County. 

INYO COUNTY comprises an area of 12,000 square 
miles of the most diversified surface in America, ranging 
from the summit of Mount Whitney, 1500 feet above the 
sea, to Death Valley, 400 feet below. It is traversed by the 
Sierra Nevada, Alabama, Inyo, White, Ubehaba, Argus, 
Calico and Telescope mountains, and embraces besides the 
great Owens River Valley, Eureka, Deep, Spring, Round, 
Saline Panamint, Death and other valleys. Its principal settle- 
mentsare Round Valley, Bishop Creek, Big Pine, Indepen- 
dence, Olancha, Swansea, Cerro Gordo, Darwin, CampReilley 
and Panamint. Bishop Creek, Union, Russ, Big Pine, Fish 
Springs, Kearsage, Alabama, Old Coso, Slate Range, Lee, 
Argus Range, Granite, Deep Spring, Sylvania, Waucoba, 
Ubeheba, Beveridge, Swansea, Cerro Gordo, Snow's Canon, 
Lone Pine, Look Out, Wild Rose and Saratoga are the most 
important mining districts. They contain gold, silver, lead, 
antimony, zinc, bismuth, iron, sulphur, soda, borax, salt, pot- 
ash, marble, gypsum, asbestos, mica, burr-stone, Sierra 
Nevada granite, gneiss and limestone. It is estimated that 
there are 12,000 acres of borax, soda and saline lands. The 
county has yielded about $14,000,000 worth of precious min- 
erals, chiefly silver, since 1862. The total population is 
only 3000. 



OWENS VALLEY. 159 

OWENS VALLEY, which embraces the largest portion 
of this interior country adapted to agriculture, is about 90 
miles in length and from 5 to 8 miles in width, bounded by 
the Sierras on the west and the White mountains on the 
east. The Owens River, a considerable stream rising in the 
Sierra Nevada mountains, flows through it into Owens Lake. 
Bishop, Big, Pine and Oak Creeks, all having sources in 
the Sierras, are its principal tributaries. 

The valley is about 4598 feet above the sea, its soil a 
fine alluvial, wonderfully productive of all kinds of grains, 
fruits and roots. The water is good, and obtained at a depth 
of from 12 to 15 feet from the surface. Average tempera- 
ture, about 59°; coldest, 11° below; hottest, 112" above zero. 
There is a light fall of snow in winter, generally not exceed- 
ing six inches, and remaining but a short time. 

BISHOP CREEK is the largest settlement, containing 
about 1000 people and farming by irrigation about 8000 
acres. Most of the heads of families came here in 1861-2. 
They had several severe battles with the Piutes, at consider- 
able loss of life and property, and were badly shaken up by . 
the earthquake of 1872, but with true American grit held on 
to their homes through these troublesome times, to the ad- 
vent of the railway, and the beginning of a new era of devel- 
opment. By the economical utilization of the waters of Owens 
River and tributary streams now running to waste or lost by 
evaporation and absorption, at least 150,000 acres of the val- 
ley could be brought under profitable cultivation, supporting 
a large population. 

Remaining over night at Bishop Creek, where there are 
good accommodations, at the Railroad House, by Mrs. D. 
B. Russell, and the Owens' Valley House, by Mr. Burton 
McGee, the following morning I rode to the end of the 
track, at Hawley, Owens Lake, about seventy-two miles 
distant. 

En route, we passed through Miller, Tibbetts, Inde- 
pendence, Lone Pine and Swansea. The violent earthquake 
of 1872 spent its greatest force at Lone Pine, killing twenty- 
five people. The valley for a long distance dropped down 



160 CALIFORNIA. 

about twenty feet, the perpendicular wall then formed 
being plainly seen from the train. 

The Geandest Mountain Views afforded by the entire 
Sierra Nevada Range are obtained from near Independence. 
Mount Whitney and the neighboring chain of peaks, from 
12,000 to 15,000 feet above the sea, rise precipitous, bare 
and sharply outlined, from 6000 to 10,000 feet above the 
valley. There is a good horseback trail from Lone Pine to 
the summit of Mount Whitney, about fifty miles — the ascent 
requiring four days for the round trip. 

A Bath in Owens Lake. — Owens Lake is the most re- 
markable body of mineral water on the continent. It is 
about seventeen miles long, nine miles wide and fifty feet 
deep, and though the reservoir of Oweus River, George, 
Lone Pine, Cottonwood and Ash Creeks, carrying great 
bodies of fresh mountain water, shows the following analy- 
sis: 

Specific gravity 1.25 

100 liters=26.42 gals, contains: 

Potassium sulphate 644.87 

Sodium sulphate 929.07 

carbonate 2440.80 

" chloride 2328.30 

Silica acid 17.21 

636.025 
I found the borders for several rods from the water 
thickly crusted with these sodas and salts, which cut the 
feet like sharp stones. Reaching the shore, I waded 
through a yellow, sickly scum of the consistency of soft 
soap, for several yards. Then came a winrow of millions of 
dead flies, nearly a rod in width. I looked up and down the 
lake, and seeing that they evidently extended all the way 
round, mustered courage to plunge through. It certainly 
possesses very remarkable cleansing properties, whatever 
may be its other virtues. There are convenient fresh water 
springs on the shore, in which the natives generally wash 
after bathing in the lake. 

I returned via Reno, where there are excellent hotel 
accommodations — at the Depot Hotel, by W. R. Chamber- 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 161 

lain, also at the Palace Hotel, by Perkins & White, oppo- 
site, and livery at the Reno Livery, by Dean & Wilson, 
owners of the Nevada Theatre Building. All trains stop here 
thirty minutes. 

Tkep No. 3 — From San Francisco to Lakes Tahoe, Bonner, In- 
dependence and Webber, California. Round trip, 650 miles. 

DONNER LAKE, that charming body of water of which 
you get glimpses through those provoking snow-sheds, while 
riding over the summit — is situated about three miles from 
Truckee, on the Central Pacific Railway, and 274 miles from 
San Francisco. It is about three miles long, one and a half 
miles in width, and 250 feet in depth, with handsome grav- 
elly shores, surrounded Jby a fine forest of pine, fir and 
tamrack. Its remarkable beauty alone would have given it 
a first place among the lake gems of the Sierras, but it has 
been immortalized by the terrible fate of the Donner* party, 
thirty-four of whom died from starvation near its shores, in 
1846, and also by the paintings of Bierstadt. 

Reaching Truckee en route, though at the early hour of 
4:50 a.m., the irrepressible small boy, of an enquiring mind, 
was at the station. Pointing to Major Ben Truman's excel- 
lent Tourists' Guide, he exclaimed, " Got Peck's Bad Boy ?' ' 
When I told him that, though I hadn't that wonderful book, 
I knew very well the man who wrote it, he became much in- 
terested, and kindly showed me the way to the lake. 

The road is a good one, bearing westward from the town, 
skirting the green meadows, where the snow-bound Donner 
party, wrapped in the cold white shrouds of the merciless 
storm-king, lay down lor their final rest. Their last camping- 
place, the stumps of the trees they had cut for fuel, and 
their cabins, were pointed out to me. One of the survivors, 
Mrs. Lewis, daughter of Mr. Reed, told me recently that the 
snow was over 50 feet in depth, and that they did not know 
of the existence of Donner Lake. 

Soon after reaching the fine grove on the eastern shore, 
the rising sun, first gilding the summits of the mountains, 



* See the intensely thrilling " History of the Donner Party," by C. F. McGlashen, Esq., 
the well-known brilliant author and lawyer of Truckee, Cal. 



162 



CALIFORNIA. 



then shed the full glory of his golden rajs over the clear, 
still waters smiling beneath. 




Riding out about a mile, we reached "Echo Rock," and 



INDEPENDENCE LAKE. 163 

shouting a loud good morning, three responses were dis- 
tinctly heard. 

The lake freezes from one to three feet thick in winter, and 
then eclipses all of the artificial skating rinks in the world. 

Returning to Truckee, I was presented by the author, 
Mr. W. H. Edwards, editor of the Truckee Republican, with 
Edwards' Tourists' Guide of the Truckee Basin, a complete 
and excellent description of this interesting region, finely il- 
lustrated by excellent views taken by Mr. H. K. Gage, of 
Truckee, several of which, by kind permission, appear in 
this work. 

From Truckee I proceeded to Independence Lake, 16 
miles distant, by the Sierra ville Stage Line, G. Q. Buxton, 
proprietor, which makes tri-weekly trips to Eureka Mills, 
50 miles, via "Webber Lake, Sierra Valley and Jameson's 
City, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, returning 
alternate days. The previous evening the stage was stopped 
by two masked men, twelve miles from Truckee, and robbed 
of about a thousand dollars. The driver told me that one 
of the passengers was a Methodist minister, who for a won- 
der had some $30 in his pocket. When the robbers came 
to him he remarked, as though of course the announcement 
would secure him a pass-by : 

"lam a Methodist minister.'''' 

"Ha! ha! Just the man we are after; fork over," replied 
the robber. 

But they were not entirely heartless. One passenger, 
who had some money but no courage, was so overcome with 
fear that he lay back on his seat, pale as a ghost. Looking 
at him, the leader of the gang said: "That fellow's sick; let 
him go." An old lady was also permitted to go unsearched. 

INDEPENDENCE LAKE is situated about 16 miles 
northeast of Truckee, 6700 feet above the sea, in the midst 
of a fine forest of tamrack, fir and pine. 

Mount Lola rises to the height of 1100 feet, four miles 
to the northward. Both the lake and this mountain were 
named on the 4th of July, 1853, the former in honor of our 
National birthday, and the latter from Lola Montez, or the 



164 CALIFORNIA. 

" Countess of Landsfeldt," who was present at the launching 
of a vessel on the lake at that date. 

It is a most beautiful body of water, clear as crystal, 
about three miles in length, three-quarters of a mile wide 
and 700 feet in depth. Like all these mountain lakes, it is 
full of splendid trout, and the neighboring woods abound 
with game, great and small — bear, deer, grouse, etc. From 
June until October it is one of the favorite resorts of the 
coast. A comfortable hotel is kept open during the season. 
A. W. Sisson, of San Francisco, is the owner of the prop- 
erty. 

WEBBER LAKE. A two hours' walk brought me to the 
shore of Webber Lake. It lies 26 miles northwest of Truckee, 
6925 feet above the sea, and is about one mile in length, 
three-quarters of a mile wide, and 85 feet deep. Its shores 
are gravelly aucl clean, bordered by pleasant groves of tam- 
rack and pine, with a tine green meadow opening on the 
south side. It is not only one of the most beautiful of all 
these mountain lakes, but situated in the midst of the grand- 
est scenery. White Rock Peak on the southeast, Webber 
Peak on the west and Observation Point on the north, rear 
their heads from 2500 to 3000 feet above the surface. 

Three-quarters of a mile below, the Little Truckee 
River, its outlet, dashes down a precipice over a hundred 
feet, and thence flows through a wild, rock-bound gorge. 

The charming Lake of the Woods is only a mile distant, 
570 feet above. The trout fishing and hunting are unsur- 
passed anywhere in this region. 

There is a good hotel situated in a fine grove of tamrack 
on the north shore, on the old Hennessey Pass Road, open 
from May until winter. 

Teip No. 4. —From San Francisco to Yuma, Arizona, via 
Central and Southern Pacific Railivay, Oakland, Lathrop, 
Mojave, Los Angeles and Colton. Bound trip, 1462 
miles. 

Fort Yuma is situated in San Diego County, California, 
on the Colorado River, about 150 miles from its mouth —730 
miles, by rail, from San Francisco. The town of Yuma lies 



166 CALIFORNIA. 

on the opposite, or east bank of the river, in Arizona. Be- 
fore the construction of the Southern Pacific Railway it was 
the chief point of distribution of supplies for the military 
posts of this region, and commanded its principal trade. 
The climate, though extremely hot during the mid- summer 
months, is very healthy, free from all malaria, and one of 
the most enjoyable in the Union from September until May. 
The sun shines almost perpetually, the entire annual rain- 
fall rarely exceeding four inches. It is without doubt one 
of the best climates in the world for consumptives and 
asthmatics. 

THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC HOTEL, under the ex- 
cellent management of Mr. H. W. Weaver, offers first-class 
accommodations. Mr. Weaver is also the proprietor of the 
fine hotel at India, 120 miles west of Yuma, in the Coquilla 
Valley, 100 feet below the sea. The Colorado River 
is a considerable stream, carrying a large volume of the 
purest water, and navigable, ten months in the year, to the 
mouth of Virgin River, 440 miles from Yuma. Castle 
Dome, Picacho, Norton's Landing, Ehrenberg, Aubrey, 
Needles, Fort Mojave and El Dorado Canon are the princi- 
pal landings. The river is highest in December and Janu- 
ary and June and July. The Cocopah, Yumas, Chemehue- 
vis, Mojave, Pahutes and Coweas Indians live upon it. 
Those seen at Yuma were tall, well formed and nearly 
naked. Captain Polhamus, who has run steamers on the 
Colorado since 1856, informed me that the tide ebbs and 
flows thirty-two feet at its mouth, coining in with a loud 
roar, backing up its waters for sixty miles, overflowing an 
extensive delta, which, by dyking, might be utilized for the 
cultivation of rice. 

THE ROUTE TO YUMA 

Is one of great interest, affording in succession 
glimpses of the most beautiful and desolate portions of the 
Golden State. It traverses the whole length of the San 
Joaquin Valley, the most extensive on the Pacific slope, 
crosses the Tehachapi Mountains, through the remarkable 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 167 

railway loop, runs along the borders of the Mojave Desert, 
then through the wild pass of Soledad and the great San 
Fernando Tunnel to Los Angeles and the beautiful valley of 
orange groves and vineyards, thence through the famous 
San Gabriel Valley, near Eiverside and San Bernardino, 
across 200 miles of the Colorado Desert, via the Pass of San 
Gorgonio. 

THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD HOTEL, 

Los Angeles, H. A. Clawson, proprietor, is a large, first- 
class establishment, affording excellent accommodations for 
those who desire to stop over to see Los Angeles and the 
neighboring places and points of interest. Street cars run 
every 7| minutes to all parts of the city, and railway trains 
leave daily for Santa Monica, Willmore City, Fulton, Wells, 
Anaheim, San Gabriel, Riverside, etc., etc. 

The Southern Hotel, W. B. Salmon, proprietor, is situ- 
ated at 648, 650 and 652 San Fernando street, opposite the 
new C. P. R. R. depot. 

Trip No. 5. — From San Francisco to Santa Ana, Los Angeles 
County, California, by the Southern Pacific Railroad, re- 
turning via Mojave and the Needles, on the Colorado River. 
Round trip, 1512 miles. 

Having already described the general features of the 
country from San Francisco to Santa Ana, in Los Angeles 
County, by the overland route, it remains to briefly notice 
that stretch of 240 miles of barren waste extending from Mo- 
jave to the Needles. The great Colorado Desert lies mainly 
in Eastern San Diego, San Bernardino and Kern Counties, 
California, and considered as a whole is a worthless region, 
except for its mineral resources. These are great, and the 
discoveries and developments of the last few months along 
the line of the Southern Pacific from Mojave eastward are of 
the most promising character. At 

Waterman's, Waterman & Porter own a rich silver mine 
and operate a ten-stamp quartz mill. 

Daggett, ten miles beyond, is seven miles south of the rich 



168 CALIFORNIA. 

Calico silver mines, and near the very promising Ord Moun- 
tain and Lava Bed silver, copper and gold discoveries. 

The Railroad Hotel, of Daggett, by V. Van Breisen, 
affords good accommodations. 

Extensive Lava Beds are now seen on the right for a 
long distance. 

About two miles from Amboy a magnificent volcanic 
crater, about three-quarters of a mile in diameter, rises like 
a vast amphitheater, 500 or 600 feet above the general level 
of the desert. 

NEEDLES is situated near the west bank of the Colorado 
River, in San Bernardino Co., Cal., 622 miles southeast of 
San Francisco. It derives its name from three sharp peaks 
of the Wallupa range of mountains, about 20 miles distant, 
in Arizona. 

Here the Southern Pacific meets the Atlantic and Pacific 
Railway, opening another trans-continental line. Needles 
is about 277 miles above Yuma, and 163 miles below Virgin 
River. At the latter point there are very extensive deposits 
of rock salt of the finest quality. 

There are large bodies of land along the Colorado which 
only need water to become very productive. An extensive 
canal scheme is projected for the irrigation of about 25,000 
acres by the Colorado River. Gen. Fremont and others 
have advocated that the General Government should under- 
take the reclamation of the Colorado Desert at large by the 
same means. Judging from what I have seen, the area sus- 
ceptible of cultivation, as compared with the whole, is too 
limited to warrant the expenditure for hundreds of years to 
come. 

THE JUNCTION HOUSE AND DEPOT of the S. P. 

R. R., at the Needles, Hodges, Little & Co., proprietors, 
affords first class accommodations. 

A Rich Find. — Three miners, recently prospecting in 
the mountains near the Needles, discovered an abandoned 
shaft with a piece of rope still attached to the windlass. 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 



169 



After testing and finding it strong enough to hold, one of 
them began the descent. When down about 25 feet he sud- 
denly cried out in great alarm for his companions to haul 
him up. He reached the surface pale and trembling, with 
just sufficient strength to articulate between his gasps for 
breath, "Snakes! snakes!!" Lowering a light, sure enough, 
about twenty -five full-grown rattlesnakes raised their heads 
ready for action, at the bottom of the hole. One of the 
party related to me this snake story. 

Trip No. 6. — From San Francisco to Bed' ling, California, via 
Davis and Tehama, returning via Marysville, Sacramento, 
Stockton, Lathrop, Livermore and Niles. Round trip, 
569 miles. 

Returning from Yuma, I proceeded by rail to Redding, 
Shasta County, Cal., the present northern terminus of the 
Oregon Division of the Central Pacific Railwaj'. This route 
extends the whole length of the great Sacramento Valley, 
passing through its famous wheat, wool and fruit growing dis- 
tricts, and its most important cities and towns. The landscape 
is exceedingly attractive, extensive scopes of country, especial- 
ly in the northern portion, being handsomely wooded with live 




THE NEW WESTERN HOTEL, 
209 to 219 K Street, Sacramento. Two blocks from C. P. E. R. Depot. 

WILLIAM LAND, PROPRIETOR A. W. MORRISON. CHIEF CLERK. 

The leading business and family hotel of Sacramento Splendid light rooms, with or with- 
out board. Meals, 25 cents. Free 'Bus meets all trains. 



170 CALIFORNIA. 

oak. The most picturesque scenery lies between Lathrop 
and San Francisco, through the Diablo range of mountains. 

Travelers stopping over at Redding will be well provided 
for at the Redding Hotel, B. Conroy, proprietor. 

At Sacramento the 

NEW WESTERN HOTEL, Wm. Land, proprietor, 
justly claims to be one of the best houses in that city, 
and unsurpassed on the coast for affording good accommo- 
dations at reasonable prices. Their omnibus meets all trains 
at the great depot of the C. P. R. R. 

The Shannon House, R. T. Shannon, proprietor, situ- 
ated at Lathrop, the junction of the C. P. R. R. and S. P. 
R. R., where all trains stop twenty minutes, is a good 
second class hotel; meals, 25 cents. 

Trip No. 7. — From San Francisco to the Faraiso Hot Mineral 
Springs, returning via Monterey and Gilroy Hot Mineral 
Springs. Round trip, 355 miles. 

Leaving San Francisco by the Southern Pacific Railway 
from Fourth and Townsend streets, the route traverses the 
Santa Clara Valley, famous for its beauty and fertility, 
orchards and vineyards, delightful towns and magnificent 
country seats, via Milbrae, San Mateo, Belmont, Menlo Park, 
Santa Clara, San Jose and Gilroy, then follows down the 
picturesque Pajaro River to the great Salinas Valley, through 
Salinas, Chualar and Gonzales, reaching Soledad, the ter- 
minus, 143 miles from San Francisco, at 5:13 p. m., and the 
Springs about 6:30 p. m. 

THE CELEBRATED PARAISO HOT MINERAL 
SPRINGS are situated at an elevation of 1400 feet above 
the sea, on the eastern foot-hills of the Coast Range of 
Mountains, in Monterey County, 150 miles from San Fran- 
cisco, and seven miles from Soledad, the present terminus of 
the Northern Division of the Southern Pacific Railroad. 

The principal springs are hot and cold, soda, sulphur 
and iron, and remarkably efficacious for the cure of rheuma- 
tism, dyspepsia, neuralgia, kidney and liver complaints. 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 



171 




172 



CALIFORNIA. 



The situation is one of the most delightful I have ever 
seen, the grounds embracing a tract of 300 acres, with a 
sunny Eastern exposure, amply shaded by handsome live 
oak, and other native forest trees, perfectly protected from 
all harsh winds by the surrounding hills, and commanding 
an extensive and magnificent valley and mountain view. 

There are excellent accommodations for 150 guests, com- 




prising besides a commodious hotel building, 21 neat hand- 
somely furnished cottages, music, billiard and dining-halls, 
shooting gallery, croquet grounds, swings, drives and walks, 
and a fine livery of carriage and saddle-horses. 

There are excellent bathing facilities for hot and cold, 
soda, sulphur, iron and mud baths, the latter highly recom- 
mended for the cure of obstinate cases of rheumatism. 



THE PARAISO HOT MINERAL SPRINGS. 173 

The Hot Soda Springs, having a temperature of from 
102° to 121°, have also made remarkable cures of paralytics, 
who sought relief in vain elsewhere. 

The climate is unsurpassed for equability and salubrity, 
absolutely free from all malaria, possessing a delightful 
mean the year round. 

There is good deer, rabbit and quail hunting in the 
neighboring hills, and trout fishing within five miles. 

It is open the year round, and is one of the most enjoy- 
able and deservedly popular summer and winter resorts on 
the coast. Its patronage is increasing so rapidly, that ex- 
tensive improvements are now in progress, comprising the 
building of several new cottages, a large dining-hall, etc. 

A skillful physician, Dr. W. L. Newlands, late of San 
Francisco, is in constant attendance. 

An easy four-horse coach meets all trains at Soledad, and 
conveys guests, over a gradual and smooth grade, to the 
Springs, where their popular owner, Mr. J. P. Keeve and 
his excellent wife, devote personal attention to their 
comfort. 

Excursion tickets for the round trip to and from San 
Francisco are $11.50, good for six months. 

There is telephonic and telegraphic communication to all 
points, and Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express and post-office at 
the Springs. 

Analysis of Paraiso Hot Mineral Springs by Professor 
Cichi. One gallon of water from Soda Springs con- 
tains : 

GRAINS. 

Matter volatile on ignition, so called organic matter 5.25 

Silica 2.62 

Alumnia and iron 1 .60 

Magnesia, trace. 

Chloride of potassinm 35 

Chloride of sodium 3.50 

Sulphate of soda 35.50 

Carbonate of soda 4.23 

Sulphate of lime 4.32 

Carbonate of lime 1-43 

Total 58.80 

Temperature 118° F. 



174 CALIFORNIA. 

The Sulphur Springs contain a large per centage of sul- 
phate of soda, sulphate of lime, peroxide of iron, bicarbon- 
ate of magnesia, organic matter, sulphate of potassia. 
Temperature, 114° F. 

The Mud Bath combine the properties of both soda and 
sulphur springs. 

THE GILROY HOT MINERAL SPRINGS.— The fa- 
mous Gilroy Hot Mineral Springs are charmingly situated 
on Coyote Creek, in the Pacheco Mountains, an extension 
of the Diable Range, about 1500 feet above the sea, 92 miles 
from San Francisco, and 12 miles from Gilroy, on the 
Southern Pacific Railway. 

They were first discovered and taken up in 1853, by two 
Spaniards, Jose and Ignacia Ortega, who wero attracted by 
the vapors rising from the springs, while herding sheep in 
the neighboring hills. 

The following } r ear they were purchased by Messrs. Roop 
and Oldham — Roop & Tennant being the present proprie- 
tors. The springs property embraces a very picturesque 400 
acre tract of handsome, rolling foot-hills, finely wooded with 
live oak, pine, Liurel and sycamore, supplying the table with 
an abundance of fresh milk and vegetables. 

There are numerous springs, cold and hot — the most 
important having a temperature ranging from 109° to 
115° — sulphur, iron, magnesia and iodine being its most 
prominent ingredients. They are unrivaled for the cure of 
rheumatism, neuralgia, paralysis, liver, kidney and kindred 
diseases. 

The climate is dry and exhilerating, exempt from the 
coast fogs and winds, one of the most healthy and enjoya- 
ble in the world. 

The improvements are among the most extensive and 
complete of any sanitarium on the Pacific coast, comprising 
a main building, with thirty-two handsomely furnished 
apartments, large fine parlors and dining-room, a seventeen- 
room lodging hall, nineteen cosy cottages, billiard-room, 
fountains, flower garden, livery, post and telegraph offices, 
etc., and everything necessary for the perfect accommoda- 
tion of 250 guests. 



THE NAPA SODA SPRINGS. 175 

The bathing facilities are excellent — sixteen large bath- 
rooms, a plunge-bath for ladies and one for gentlemen; also 
a mud bath for severe cases of rheumatism. 

The large and increasing patronage of these popular 
springs is sufficient evidence of their virtues and the excel- 
lence of their management. 

John Paine's daily coach meets the two o'clock train at 
Gilroy; the fare for the round trip, from San Francisco, 
being eight dollars, with a deduction of two dollars for the 
Saturday excursion train, returning Monday. 

Trip No. 8.— Through the Napa Valley to the Napa and Calk- 
toga Springs. Bound trip, 160 miles. 

Leaving the Market street ferry at 8 a. m., 32 miles out 
crossing the Carquinas Straits two miles by steamer to 
South Vallejo, and thence by rail 42 miles through the 
Napa Valley, famous for its beauty and fertility, extensive 
orchards and vineyards, affords one of the most enjoyable 
day's excursions on the coast. 

THE NAPA SODA SPRINGS. The celebrated Napa 
Soda Springs are situated on the western foothills of the 
mountain range lying between the Sacramento and Napa 
Valleys, about 1000 feet above the level of the sea, six miles 
northeast of Napa City and 45 miles from San Francisco. 
The Springs property embraces a magnificent tract of 1020 
acres, finely wooded with live oak, laurel and madrona, 
abundantly supplied with excellent water from living streams 
and springs, and commanding one of the most delightful 
views upon the continent. 

Extensive improvements have been made, comprising an 
imposing and handsome circular structure called the Ro- 
tunda, 120 feet in diameter and 75 feet in height, an elegant 
club-house, the tower, ivy, garden and bottling houses, 
music and dining halls, hot and cold baths, a swimming- 
pool cut out of the solid rock 200 feet in length; orchards, 
vineyards and gardens, arbors, walks and drives, water and 
gas works, a telephone to Napa, etc., etc., affording the 



176 



CALIFORNIA. 



most perfect accommodations for 250 guests. There were 
125 there a few days before my visit. 

From the mineral springs, some 20 in number, flows 
an inexhaustible supply of the popular Napa Soda, the 
most extensively consumed mineral water on the Pacific 
coast. From 250 to 300 dozen bottles are put up daily, the 
June shipment, I am informed, amounting to 8054 dozen, or 
96,540 bottles, orders coming from British Columbia, Mex- 
ico and China. 




NAPA PAGODA SPRING. 



Col. J. P. Jackson, of the Evening Post, is the owner of 
this valuable property. A four-horse coach meets all 
trains at Napa. Kequest the driver to take the upper road, 
which affords the most extensive and beautiful views, and 
also to pass through the handsome grounds of Gen. Miller's 
country residence. 



NAPA COUNTY MINERAL SPRINGS. 177 

Analysis of water from Napa Soda Springs, made by 
Prof. Louis Lanszweert: 

Temperature Fahrenheit 68 c 

Grains. 
Residue from the evaporation of a gallon 68. 7G 

Bicarbonate of Soda 13 . 12 

Carbonate of Magnesia 26 . 12 

Carbonate of Lime 10 . 83 

Chloride of Sodium 5.20 

Subcarbonate of Iron 7 . 84 

Sulphate of Soda 1 . 84 

Silicious Acid .... 0.62 

Alumina . 60 

THE WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, nine in number, 
are about two and a half miles from St. Helena. They were 
formerly much resorted to, but are not at present entertain- 
ing visitors. 

The following is the analysis of one gallon of these 
waters, made by Prof. LeConte: 

No. % No. ii. No. 7. 

Temperature of Spring 89 . 6 F. 86 . F. 69 8 F. 

Specific gravity 1005 . 26 1000 40 1000 . 38 

Solids. (.rains. 

Carbonate of Lime 1 . 25 2 .45 5 . 56 

Carbonate of Magnesia 62 . 56 4 . 36 

Sulphate of Soda 8.26 11 33 12.84 

Chloride of Sodium 21 . 72 23 . 41 14 . 23 

Chloride of Calcium 1 . 32 86 0. 78 

Chloride of Magnesium 87 2 . 22 . 65 

Sulphides of Sodium and Calcium. 2 65 1.85 1.62 

Total 36.69 42.67 40.04 

Gases. Cubic Inches. 

Sulphureted Hydrogen 6.15 4 . 25 Trace. 

.ETNA SPRINGS. The .Etna Springs, picturesquely 
situated about 16 miles from St. Helena, at the head of Pope 
Valley, are a popular health and pleasure resort, open the 
year round. Excellent accommodations are provided for a 
large number of guests at $10 per week. There are also fine 
grounds for campers, with good hunting and fishing. 

Stages meet the 11:30 a.m. train at St. Helena. 



178 CALIFORNIA. 

Analysis by Prof. J. A. Bauer. Contents of one gallon. 

Temperature Fahrenheit 98° 

Grains. 

Carbonate of Soda 75 

Carbonate of Magnesia 14 

Carbonate of Lime 10 

Carbonate of Iron Trace 

Sulphate of Soda Trace 

Sulphate of Potash 8 

Chloride of Sodium ... 29 

Silica Trace 

Total Solids 1 . 37 

Carbonic Acid, cubic inches 58 

THE CALISTOGA SPRINGS, at the town of Calis- 
toga, very extensively improved by Mr. Samuel Brannan, 
were for many years the most frequented health resort on 
the coast. 

Owing to the destruction of the main hotel building by 
fire, financial embarassments, and frequent change of man- 
agement, the place has lost most of its patronage. 

There are still several comfortable cottages remaining, 
and good hot and cold water bathing facilities. 

The situation is naturally very attractive, and the springs, 
some twenty in number, are well recommended for those 
diseases, for which iron, sulphur and magnesia are a specific. 
Analysis of one gallon by Prof. J. F. Rudolph : 

Temperature 97° 

Chloride of Sodium , 22.250 

Chloride of Calcium 3 263 

Carbonate of Soda 3 .406 

Sulphate of Soda 1.616 

Sulphate of Magnesia . 466 

Silica : 6.500 

Alumina Trace 

Total 37.500 

Teip No. 9. — From San Francisco to Santa Cruz, via 
South Pacific Coast Narrow Gauge Railway. Round 
trip, 160 miles. 

No tourist should leave the Pacific coast without visiting 
Santa Cruz, via the S. P. C. R. R. It traverses one of the 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO SANTA CRUZ. 



179 



most picturesque and interesting routes in America. First 
across the harbor of San Francisco, from the foot of Market 
Street, to Alameda, on the Company's splendid steamer, 




thence by rail for several miles, skirting the eastern shore of 
the bay, then down the beautiful Santa Clara Valley, 
through Santa Clara and San Jose, over the wild and pictur- 



180 CALIFORNIA. 

esque Santa Cruz Mountains, within sight of the wonderful 
Big Trees, to the north shore of the magnificent Bay of 
Monterey. 

Six miles from the road, at Los Gatos, are situated 

THE FAMOUS CONGRESS MINERAL SPRINGS— 

the Saratoga of the Pacific, and Mecca of thousands of 
health and pleasure-seekers from all parts of the country. 

THE BIG TREES, five miles from Santa Cruz, con- 
taining the grandest monarchs of the forest, outside of the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, is a great summer resort for tour- 
ists and pleasure-seekers. 

CAMP CAPITOLA, a charming spot on the shores of 
Monterey Bay, is one of the most popular sea-side resorts. 
Here there is a splendid beach, excellent hotel and cottage 
accommodations and fine camping grounds. 

PESCADERO, one of the most noted pleasure resorts 
on the entire coast, is situated near the mouth of the Pesca- 
dero River, in San Mateo County, 33 miles from San Mateo. 

The famous Pescadero pebble beach is about two miles 
from the village. 

For excellence of climate, bathing, hunting, fishing and 
field sports generally, Pescadero is unsurpassed. 

Trip No. 10. — From San Francisco to the Cliff House and 
Seal Hocks, via Golden Gate Park, returning via, Point 
Lobos Road, the Presidio and Harbor View Park and 
Sea-side Gardens. Pound trip, 14 miles. 

THE CLIFF HOUSE, situated on a commanding bluff 
on the sea-shore, opposite the entrance to the Golden Gate, 
about six miles from San Francisco, is the only place on 
the American Continent accessible to the ordinary tourist, 
which affords so near a view of sea-lions disporting them- 
selves with perfect freedom in their native element, the 
vast aquarium of the Pacific Ocean. Under the protection 
of the laws of the State, they have become so tame that 



PLEASURE RESORTS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 181 

scores of them may be seen at any time crawling and 
lying upon, or diving from the Great Seal Rocks, within a 
few hundred yards of the veranda of the Cliff House, 
and their barking and howling heard half a mile away. 
The drive thence is over a splendid macadamized road, 
affording magnificent ocean and harbor views. It passes 
through the 

GOLDEN GATE PARK, comprising 1042 acres, portions 
of which have been converted from a treeless, sandy waste 
to pleasant groves of eucalyptus and other evergreens, with 
excellent drives, shady walks and cool, cosy retreats. 

Returning by the Point Lobos Road, and through the 
Presidio, the U. 8. Military Reservation, the visitor will 
see the model military station of the coast — handsome 
barracks, elegant officers' residences, surrounded by beau- 
tiful green lawns and flower gardens, and the arms and 
munitions of war. 

Proceeding toward the city, we soon reach 

HARBOR VIEW PARK, founded by R. Herman, Esq., 
twenty years ago, one of the most popular suburban 
health and pleasure resorts of San Francisco. The grounds, 
comprising three blocks, situated about two miles from the 
heart of the city, immediately on the shore of the beautiful 
harbor of San Francisco, commanding its finest views, have, 
by the expenditure of tens of thousands of dollars, and the skill 
of the artisan and landscape gardener, been converted into 
a perfect fairy land of green lawns, pleasant walks, arbors 
and drives, shaded by handsome growths of Monterey cy- 
press, pine, acacia, blue gum, pepper and other evergreens. 

Here excellent garden concerts, splendid orchestral and 
band music, social hops, boat racing, prize swimming and 
shooting, fine surf bathing, etc., provide a round of rare 
pleasure and entertainment, for the small admission fee of 
ten cents. 

The Pavilion is a magnificent structure, 130 feet square, 
with a roof supported by a single central pillar, a dancing 
floor unsurpassed on the coast, and ceilings artistically 



THE CHINESE IN SAN FRANCISCO. 183 

decorated in excellent imitation of living trailing vines, 
plants and flowers. 

The Bathing Facilities are among the most complete 
which I have examined. 

The beach is splendid, smooth, free from stones, and 
perfectly safe at all times. 

There are thirty-three fine, separate bathing apartments, 
with suits, towels, etc.. under the careful supervision of a 
constant attendant. 

The sanitary regulations are excellent, and the whole place 
is kept in the most perfect order. 

The Union Street Cable Road conveys passengers direct 
from foot of Montgomery Avenue to Harbor View Park and 
the Presidio, for five cents. 

Refreshments may be obtained at all the places men- 
tioned, and also at the Cliff House, Point Lobos Road, F. 
Elverson, proprietor. 

Through the Chinese Quarters. — No country affords 
greater opportunities for observing the peculiar habits, 
customs and characteristics of different nationalities than the 
United States. We are the most cosmopolitan of all nations. 
Nearly all of our great cities contain colonies of peoples 
from all civilized lands, but none except San Francisco has 
had transplanted into its midst a body of pagans, numbering 
many thousands, taking entire possession of several blocks 
in the center of trade, bringing with them all of the peculiar 
modes of living, dress, customs and observances practiced 
in their native country. 

The Chinese Quarter of San Francisco is therefore re- 
garded as one of the great sights of the Pacific coast, of 
which, however, its residents are not accustomed to boast. 
Although quite unnecessary so far as safety is concerned, 
police guidance and protection is furnished upon applica- 
tion, for parties of two or more, who desire to explore it 
thoroughly. I have seen much of the Chinese on the Pacific 
coast during the past ten years — in all of its principal cities 
and towns, San Diego, Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, San 
Francisco, Portland and Victoria, in the construction camps 



184 CALIFORNIA. 

of the Northern Pacific and Canadian Pacific Railways, and 
on the great ranches all over the coast. 

They are certainly a most wonderful people, marvels of 
industry, perfect machines in the copying and execution of 
any kind of handiwork; aggressive in many departments of 
labor, by virtue of unremitting, patient toil and frugal living; 
grotesque in dress, cleanly in some personal habits, very filthy 
in others; temperate in drinking, but very intemperate in 
smoking; quiet and polite in manner, peaceable and less given 
to the commission of crime in general than any equal num- 
ber of our own population; Pagans in religion, but honest 
and prompt in all of their business relations. 

That portion of San Francisco bounded by California, 
Broadway, Stockton and Kearny streets, is packed with about 
twenty-five thousand of these strange people, dressing, liv- 
ing and carrying on trade as in their own country. 

I have frequently visited them, but never made so thor- 
ough an examination of their quarters as recently with 
officer Sergeant Geo. Birdsall, in charge of the city police 
force of the Chinese Quarter. To elaborate upon what I 
saw, would fill a volume. 

There were Chinamen of all ages, and both sexes, round, 
bronzed-faced, almond-eyed, and pig-tailed; dressed in their 
blue, square cut, broad sleeved, short tailed blouses; eating- 
rice with chop sticks, drinking tea from their diminutive 
china cups; smoking opium with their long pipes, reclining 
in dingy dismal dens in all stages of somnolescence; living 
in small, dark filthy cellars and narrow alleys, alive with cats 
and dogs; sleeping packed like herring;- gambling behind 
great double iron-bound eight inch thick doors, with watch- 
men outside and in ; playing disgusting acts on the stage to 
3000 gaping spectators; burning incense before graven 
images in their Joss houses; Chinamen engaged in many avo- 
cations; Chinese merchants, money brokers, doctors, fruit 
dealers, washermen, tailors, barbers, boot and shoe makers, 
restauranteurs, butchers, cigar manufacturers, watchmakers, 
goldsmiths, pawnbrokers, prostitutes, etc., etc., everything 
almost except saloon-keepers. 



THE CHINESE IN SAN FRANCISCO. 185 

In some branches of trade they are quite aggressive, con- 
trolling at present the San Francisco fresh pork market. 

Many have evidently come to America " to stay." 

Sergeant Birdsall, who knows the history and ownership 
of all of the principal buildings of Chinatown, pointed out 
block after block, formerly prominent houses in the heart of 
the business portion of the city, which have been purchased 
by Chinamen at prices ranging from $10,000 to $60,000, and 
showed me several for which they pay a monthly rental of 
from $700 to $800. 

The old Globe, Portsmouth House, St. Francis and Cal- 
ifornia Hotel, Boomerang Saloon and Bee Hive Building- 
are all occupied by Chinamen. The notorious Belle Corey 
House, of Waverly Place, is now also the abode of the 
Heathen Chinee. 

Their presence in such large numbers on this coast is mainly 
due to the great demand for laborers, occasioned by railway 
construction and the wonderful development of the manifold 
industries of a new country, aud the unreliable character of 
white field labor. 

Large numbers of land-owners have told me that they 
would gladly employ white men, were it not for their intem- 
perate and shiftless habits. 

The right of the Chinese to compete in the labor market 
of the world is, I think, indisputable, and we Americans, 
with all our boasted enlightenment and advancement, should 
be ashamed to fear such competition. 

I regard all laws restricting the free movement of any 
people, to and from any part of the globe, either for 
residence or service, as unconstitutional and oppressive, 
and a disgrace to the country enacting them. 



186 



CALIFORNIA. 




WOODWARD'S GARDENS, established by R. B. 
Woodward in 1860, is the best and greatest resort for in- 
struction and amusement on the Pacific coast. They com- 
prise over two blocks, bounded by Mission, 13th and ICth 
streets, and embrace besides the great Pavilion, Music Hall 
and Amphitheater, where excellent performances are held 
every Saturday and Sunday, the most complete collections 
of animals, birds, fishes, flowers and plants, geological 
specimens and curiosities from all parts of the world, to be 
found in the United States. 




The grounds are delightfully laid out, a perfect fairy 
land of green lawns, bright flowers, fountains and miniature 
lakes, with picturesque rocky grottoes, shady bowers and 
fine statuary, and with its museums, aquariums, menagerie, 



PLEASURE RESORTS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 



187 



art gallery, conservatory, skating rink, swings, rotary boats, 
" liappy families," cunning monkeys, trick donkeys, live seal, 
bear, bison, wolves, lions, foxes, panther, camels, deer, 
kangaroo, sea lions, ostrich, swans, etc., etc., affords an un- 
paralleled source of education and entertainment for both 
old and young. 

The Zoographicon, invented by Prof. F. Gruber, excites 
the wonder and admiration of all visitors, and affords a better 
knowledge of the physical geography of the earth and the 
animals and productions of the several zones, than a whole 
term of ordinary school instruction. 




They have been deemed worthy of visits from the most 
distinguished people of the world, including Gen. U. S. 
Grant, Dom Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil, King and Queen 
of Sandwich Islands, Louis Agassiz, Professors Henry, 
Marsh and Gray, and other scientists and directors of 
European museums, too numerous to mention. 

The gardens are open the year round, from about 7 a. m. 
to 6 p. i,, and the price of admission only 25 cents for adults 
and 10 cents for children. Excellent restaurants provide all 
necessaries and luxuries, if desired. The Mission street 
cars, also the Larkin, Valencia, Howard and Folsom lines 
convey visitors to the entrance every two or three minutes, 
from all parts of the city, for five cents. This great resort 
is under the able management of Mr. Isaac Hyde. 



188 



CALIFORNIA. 



THE HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS OF SAN FEAN- 
CISCO are superior to those of any other city in the Union. 
There are houses adapted to the wants, tastes and means 
of all classes, at the most reasonable rates. 

THE INTEKNATIONAL, Mr. John Thomas, owner and 
proprietor, is one of the most popular hotels on the coast 
with the traveling public; its register showing over 12,000 
arrivals within the past twelve months. It is a fine, large 
house, containing 140 light, airy rooms, accommodating 300 
guests, situated convenient to all the car lines, steamer 
landings and places of amusements, and under the able 
personal management of the proprietor and Mr. T. J. Brannan, 
his Chief Clerk. 




THE INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO, 
824 and 826 Kearny Street, between Washington and Jackson Streets. 

JOHN THOMAS, PROPRIETOR. T. J. BRANNAN. CHIEF CLERK. 

Board and room per day, $1.00, $1.50 and $2.00, according to room. Free Coach. 

Trip No. 11. — Overland from San Francisco to Portland, Ore- 
gon, via the great mineral spring and mountain resorts of 
Lake and Sonoma Counties, The Big Geysers, Petrified 
Forest, Sissons, Mount Shasta and Yreka, California, 
Roseburg, Eugene City, Salem, Albany, Payton's, and 
Wilhoit Mineral Springs, Oregon, 1000 miles ; including 
a pedestrian tour of 250 miles, through Sonoma and Lake 
Counties, California, the Sioitzerland of the Pacific Coast. 

It is about 600 miles by the regular overland route from 
San Francisco to Portland via Oregon Division C. P. E. R., 



EXCURSIONS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 189 

260 miles to Redding, thence by stage to the Southern ter- 
minus of the Oregon and California R. R., now about 275 
miles south of Portland. 

For the purpose of visiting the numerous mountain re- 
sorts, mineral springs and points of interest of this upper 
coast region, I traveled about 400 miles further. 

Pedestrianism is not popular in California; indeed, is 
hardly considered respectable. The poorest native rides, 
and those found afoot, are either regarded as common 
tramps, or in desperate circumstances. 

Notwithstanding, upon reaching the town of Williams, 
on the C. P. R. R., 125 miles from San Francisco, and find- 
ing that my routes of travel among the mineral springs and 
mountain resorts of this region were mainly off from all 
regular lines of stage service at this season, I determined to 
undertake the journey on foot. I had expressed my rifle, 
rubber coat, etc., from Eugene City, lost my cloak and glass 
crossing the mountains, and was therefore reduced to light 
marching order, unencumbered except by the indispensable 
umbrella and a light hand satchel. 

Every mode of travel has its special advantages and dis- 
advantages, and though plodding along, at the rate of three 
or four miles an hour, would appear an intolerable hardship 
to many, it is really the most enjoyable and best way in the 
world to see a country and its people thoroughly. 

Eight miles across the western borders of the great val- 
ley of Sacramento brought me to the eastern foot-hills of 
the Coast Range in Colusa County. 

For the last hundreds of miles, even to Southern Oregon, 
the unprecedented dry weather of March threatened the 
most general and disastrous crop failures ever known on this 
coast. 

The farmers and merchants generally, all along the line, 
through the rich Rogue River and upper Sacramento valleys, 
were filled with the gloomiest forebodings in consequence. 
Many had already given up all hopes of a crop, and were 
turning their stock into the withering wheat-fields. Some 
were leaving the country, and hundreds preparing to do so. 
Nothing but immediate and abundant rains could save 
thousands from absolute ruin. 



190 CALIFORNIA. 

It is impossible for those who have not been on this 
coast at times of threatened drouth, to realize the intense 
anxiety which prevails, while the period is passing during 
which the saving rains must come, if at all, and the great 
rejoicing which their timely and abundant downfall causes. 

At the foothills I met a discouraged farmer driving his 
stock into a field of stunted grain. I called his attention to 
the moist wind blowing from the south and the gathering 
clouds, but he had given up all hopes of rain, even sufficient 
for a hay crop. 

Climbing a considerable mountain, I descended into Bear 
Valley. It is about nine miles long and two miles wide, rich 
and pleasant, and occupied by forty or fifty families, engaged 
in farming, dairying and stock-raising. Here the rains had 
been sufficient to keep the grass green and promising. 

Proceeding down the valley, I encountered a desperate 
tax collector who, though assured that I was a stranger simply 
passing, through the county, pressed his demand for a $2 
poll-tax, until I was compelled to intimate my disposition 
and readiness to chastise the impudent fellow, before he 
drove on. 

Reaching Sulphur Creek, I followed it into the foot- 
hills to 

WILBUR HOT SPRINGS. They are pleasantly situ- 
ated in the southwestern part of Colusa County, about 26 
miles from the line of the Central Pacific Railway, at Wil- 
liams, at an elevation of 950 feet above the sea. 

They were first discovered by N. C. Simmons, in 1863, to 
whom the State Agricultural Society granted a diploma for 
the superior excellence of their waters. In 1871 they were 
purchased by Dr. Wilbur, upon whose decease they came 
into possession of Mr. J. S. Brame, their present owner. 
The springs are eleven in number, several hot sulphur, and 
cold iron and sulphur, and are among the most favorably 
known on the coast for the cure of rheumatism, dropsy, salt 
rheum, tetter and all cutaneous, blood and skin diseases, 
the poison of poison-oak, dyspepsia, catarrh and like afflic- 
tions. The principal hot sulphur spring is remarkable for 



WILBUR EOT SPRINGS. 191 

its strength and flow, and having a temperature of 145°, is 
considered one of the best for bathing on the coast. 

The grounds comprise 120 acres, improved by a comfort- 
able home-like hotel, under the excellent personal manage- 
ment of Mrs. Brame and daughter, who provide an abundant 
table of all the good things in their season, including fresh 
butter, milk and eggs from the home farm. There are sev- 
eral furnished cottages for renters, ten baths, hot and cold, 
one mud bath, a pleasant reading-room, croquet grounds and 
good fresh water. Deer, quail and rabbit are found in the 
neighboring hills. Board, from $8 to $12 per week. Route, 
C. P. R. R. to Williams, 125 miles; fare, $6.75; thence by 
stage 26 miles, Monday, Wednesday and Friday; fare, $2.50. 

ANALYSIS OF SULPHUR SPRING. 

Sulphuric Acid 29.05 

Muriatic Acid 19.30 

Hydroidic Acid 7.10 

Sulphuret Potash 34.50 

Soda 21.10 

Iron 20.19 

Alumina , 0.48 

Free Sulphur. ... 30.07 

Returning through Bear Valley past Gilmore Post-office, 
the pleasant home of G. M. Gilmore, I again turned into the 
mountains at B. C. Epperson's, one of the leading farmers 
and citizens of this section. Shipwrecked on the ship 
"North America," on the coast of South America, in 1854, 
when he reached San Francisco his entire estate, personal 
and real, consisted of pants, shirt, hat and shoes, and three 
ten-cent pieces. He is now the happy possessor of a fine 
family, of wife, boys and girls, a 2000 acre ranch well stocked 
with cattle and horses, and thoroughly equipped with im- 
proved farm machinery ; a handsome residence, good barns, 
a valuable toll-road — altogether enough to satisfy any reason- 
able man. 

It was a pretty hard climb for a warm day, over the 
mountain divide from Bear to Indian Valley. The latter is 
about eight miles long, with an average width of less than a 
mile, occupied by a few settlers for grazing and farming- 
purposes. I have now entered 



192 CALIFORNIA. 

LAKE COUNTY, which contains the most numerous 
and remarkable mineral springs to be found upon any equal 
area of the American Continent, and probably in the world. 
Its surface is chiefly mountainous, interspersed with beauti- 
ful valleys and lakes, a wildly picturesque and charming 
landscape. Fir, pine, spruce and cedar cover the summits 
of the mountains and their higher slopes, meeting the oak 
at the foothills, which often grow in park-like groups over 
the handsome green valley lands. Laurel, madrone, ash, 
alder and other woods are found in the wild canons along 
the rapid mountain streams and bordering the lakes. 

It is one of the great natural sanitariums of the world, 
and its numerous mineral springs and mountain health and 
pleasure resorts are thronged with visitors from early sum- 
mer until late in October. Of these, I first visited 

THE HOUGH MINEEAL SPRINGS, very pleasantly 
situated upon Cache Creek, at an elevation of 2000 feet 
above the sea, surrounded by charming scenery. 

They were first discovered about eight years ago, soon 
after opened to the public, and recently purchased by Mr. J. 
H. Stratford, who has made extensive improvements for the 
excellent accommodation of 150 guests. These comprise a 
fine commodious hotel, newly furnished throughout, eight 
handsome cottages, a dance and music hall, arbors, walks, 
croquet grounds, swings, etc., etc. 

The grounds contain 240 acres, covered with splendid 
live oak, surrounded and sheltered from all harsh winds by 
the pine-clad mountains. 

There are five springs at present developed, iron, mag- 
nesia and soda being their most prominent ingredients, 
highly recommended for the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia 
and malarial disorders. 

There is also an abundant supply of the purest mountain 
water, and good hunting and trout fishing in the neighborhood. 

Dr. Linderberger, an experienced physician, resides at 
the springs. 

Board and room from $9 to $10 per week, and furnished 
cottages, except bedding, at $3. 



THE BABTLETT SPBINGS. 193 

Route from San Francisco to Williams, and thence, 32 
miles, by daily stage. 

THE CELEBRATED ALLEN MINERAL SPRINGS, 
James D. Bailey, owner and proprietor, are next reached. 

This is one of the most picturesque and inviting of all 
these mountain resorts, situated in a delightful glen, on a dash- 
ing mountain stream of the purest water, bordered by a fine 
growth of spruce, pine, cedar, laurel and other forest trees, 
and spanned by rustic walks and bridges. 

The elevation is about 1700 feet above the sea, the at- 
mosphere as pure, invigorating and healing as can be found 
in the world, absolutely free from all malaria. 

Here, in this delightful spot, in close proximity to each 
other, nature has provided soda, chalybeate, iron, sulphur, 
and other medicinal springs, unsurpassed for the cure of 
dyspepsia, rheumatism, paralysis, erysipelas, chills and 
fever, kidney and skin diseases. 

An analysis of these waters by Professor Wenzell of San 
Francisco, shows chlorides of sodium, magnesium, potas- 
sium, bicarbonate of magnesium, sodium, calcium, iron, 
silica and carbonic acid : to be their principal ingredients. 

There are excellent facilities for hot and cold, mineral 
and fresh water baths. 

In addition to a good hotel accommodating eighty-five 
guests at from $9.50 to $15 per week, there is quite a village 
of pretty cottages, some twenty in number, provided with 
stoves and furniture for housekeeping for renters; and also 
fine camping grounds. 

There is good deer hunting and trout fishing in the neigh- 
borhood. 

A daily stage runs to and from the springs, which are 
open the year round, to Williams, 36 miles distant, on the 
C. P. R. R., 125 miles from San Francisco. 

BARTLETT SPRINGS, Lake County, California, Bart- 
lett, McMahon & Clarke, proprietors. The Bartlett Mineral 
Springs are delightfully situated upon Bartlett Creek, in 
Lake County, California, at an elevation of 3025 feet above 



194 CALIFORNIA. 

the sea. They are not only among the most popular and 
frequented on the Pacific coast, but with but little effort 
to advertise them on the part of their proprietors, have 
already acquired a national reputation. Though first taken 
up for their medicinal properties by Green Bartlett, a pioneer 
hunter and one of their present owners, in the year 1870, 
they have been known to the early settlers of this region for 
over thirty years. 

The principal spring, the Bartlett, is one of the most re- 
markable I have visited, not only for the volume of water 
flowing from it, but especially for comprising in an unusual 
degree healing properties with agreeableness as a beverage. 
Though never analyzed, its effects have been carefully 
watched by skillful physicians, and attested by its hundreds 
of permanent cures. The water is cold, pleasant to the taste, 
gently cathartic, decidedly diuretic, also alternative, and 
especially efficacious in the cure of rheumatism, dropsy, 
all kidney and skin diseases, female complaints, malarial 
disorders, etc. There are several other springs in the near 
vicinity, accessible to visitors, including two soda, one iron 
and magnesia, and a sulphur spring. 

A finely moulded fountain of composite stone encloses 
the Bartlett Spring, surrounded by a broad, handsome pave- 
ment of the same material. Encircling it completely, shel- 
tered by the picturesque mountains, is quite a village of 
hotels, lodging and bathing houses, cottages, cabins, bil- 
liard, reading and music halls, stores, post, telegraph and 
express offices, stables, etc., etc., over a hundred buildings 
in all — affording excellent accommodations for 175 guests, 
with unlimited room for campers. During the summer 
months this great health and pleasure resort is full to 
overflowing, the white tents covering the splendid grounds 
like the bivouac of a small army. 

There is a daily stage to and from the springs, both from 
Williams, on the C. P. R. K., and Cloverdale, on the N. P. 
0. R. Bi. ; fare, about $10 from San Francisco. 

The Summit House and Happy Camp is the mountain 
home of the brothers William and Albert Foutch, who have 
taken up homesteads here, built a saw-mill, etc. Happy 



THE WITTER MINERAL SPRINGS. 195 

Camp, a favorite resort of the valley people during the 
heated term, is close at hand. Excellent springs of water 
including one of cold sulphur, are conveniently near. Mag- 
nificent views of the surrounding country may be obtained 
from the neighboring peaks. 

Now down the seven-mile grade of their western slope at a 
rapid pace, out of the pines into Clover Valley, a pleasant 
green stretch of farming and grazing lands about two miles 
long and one and a half miles in width. Thence through 
Bachelor Valley, more extensive, watered by Elk and Sucker 
Creeks, when turning into the foothills near the village of 
Upper Lake, the hotel of 

THE WITTEE MINERAL SPRINGS is seen in the 
distance. They are very picturesquely situated upon a clear 
mountain stream, 1500 feet above the sea, 16 miles from 
Lakeport, and 44 miles from Clover Valley. 

The springs, eight in number, were first discovered by 
Mr. Burke, in 1870, developed and improved by Dr. S. Wit- 
ter, and recently purchased by Mr. R. S. Emerson, the 
present owner. 

The principal and most popular spring is known as the 
"Dead Shot," on account of its efficiency in the cure of 
rheumatism, skin and scrofula diseases. It is agreeable to 
the taste, soda, chlorides of sodium and potassium, sulphates, 
lime, magnesia and borax being its chief constituents. 

There are good hotel accommodations for 40 guests, with 
charges from $6 to $10 per week, and 13 cottages, provided 
Avith stoves and furniture, for renters. The grounds com- 
prise 130 acres, with pleasant shady groves of native trees, 
and afford a delightful view of Clear Lake and the charm- 
ing surrounding scenery. 

Analysis of Witter Springs, by John Hewston, chemist, 
San Francisco : 

One gallon contains 733% grains solid constituents, composed of Car- 
bonates of Soda, Chlorides of Sodium and Potassium, small quantities of 
Sulphates, traces of Lime and Magnesia, and a considerable quantity of 
Borax. 



196 CALIFORNIA. 

PEAESON'S MINEEAL SPEINGS.— Two miles along 
the picturesque, wooded foot-hills, and I descended into one 
of the most charming spots of this entire mountain region. 
Nature has been very partial in locating these celebrated 
springs. They are situated in Lake County, at an elevation 
1600 feet above the sea, in a sunny, sheltered glen, about 
three miles from Blue Lakes and thirteen miles from Lake- 
port. They burst forth within a few rods of each other, and 
close to the main hotel, in the midst of a singularly inviting 
landscape. 

There are five springs developed — No. 1 iron, No. 2 soda, 
No. 3 magnesia, No. 4 sulphur, and No. 5 whisky, and have 
been found especially efficacious for the cure of catarrh, pa- 
ralysis, rheumatism, neuralgia, liver and kidney complaints, 
sick headache, scrofula and blood diseases. 

They not only possess these great healing virtues, but 
the Soda Spring, in particular, affords a cool, sparkling, de- 
licious beverage. 

These springs were first discovered by Pearson, in 1870, 
and are now owned by Mr. Winfield Scott Wright, of Santa 
Eosa. He first visited them as an invalid, having been 
nearly blind for several years. He derived so marked a 
benefit from the use of their waters that he determined to 
purchase the property, and possessing ample means, by ex- 
tensive and excellent improvements, has made it what 
Nature designed, one of the greatest health and pleasure 
resorts of the coast. 

There are excellent hotel accommodations for forty 
guests, at ten dollars per week, and twenty, three and four 
room cottages, furnished with stove, cooking utensils, bed- 
steads, chairs and tables, at four dollars per week, including 
use of water. 

The bathing facilities are very complete — hot, cold, steam 
and plunge baths — the water being heated to any desired 
temperature. . 

It is a popular resort for campers — game and fish being 
abundant. 

There is an unlimited supply of excellent fresh water on 
the grounds. 



BLUE LAKES HOTEL. 197 

The climate is one of the most perfect; the extreme heat 
of mid-summer never oppressive and the nights always cool. 

The springs are very accessible by an excellent carriage 
road, over which the most sensitive invalid may ride without 
injury. 

The surrounding country is full of interest for the tourist 
as well as the health-seeker. 

Mr. and Mrs. Anderson, the resident managers, spare no 
pains to promote the health and comfort of their guests. 

In addition to all the good things found in this wonder- 
ful county, the table is supplied with the best of butter, 
fresh milk, eggs and chickens from the place. 

The route to the springs, from San Francisco, is via C. 
P. E. E. to Calistoga, and thence by stage. Fare, $9 75. 

BLUE LAKES HOTEL. -This delightful summer re- 
sort is beautifully situated in Lake County, thirteen miles 
from Lakeport, near the shore of one of the most beautiful 
lakes in the world. 

Blue Lakes are famous, even among the many other 
charming lake gems of this region, for the combined attrac- 
tions which they afford for the health-seeker, tourist and 
sportsman. 

They lie in Blue Lake Canon, near its junction with 
Scott Valley, at an elevation of 2500 feet above the sea; 
three in all — from one mile to two and a half miles long, 
clear as crystal, and 20 to 150 feet in depth, full of trout, 
and their picturesque shores bordered with a handsome 
growth of live oak, spruce, white oak and madrone. 

The neighboring forests abound with game— deer, rab- 
bits, quail and pigeons. 

The property, comprising 320 acres, is improved with a 
fine hotel and handsome cottages, accommodating from forty 
to fifty guests. 

The water is excellent, and a white sulphur spring bursts 
forth on the grounds. 

The climate is unsurpassed — healthful and invigorating; 



198 CALIFORNIA. 

and, altogether, this is one of the most inviting summer re- 
sorts on the coast. 

Mr. Theodore Deming, the owner, spares no pains to 
make his guests at home, meeting them at Lakeport with 
his own excellent team, and personally attending to their 
wants. 

The Bertha Post Office is at the hotel, with a daily mail. 

Routes, via Calistoga and Lakeport, and Cloverdale and 
Lakeport. Fare, from San Francisco, $8.00. 

The following morning I visited 

HIGHLAND SPRINGS SANITARIUM, one of the 

most celebrated watering-places, summer and winter health 
and pleasure resorts on the Pacific coast. 

It is delightfully situated amidst landscapes of ex- 
ceeding beauty, and highly improved with elegant hotels 
cottages and bathing facilities, for the first-class accommo- 
dation of 150 guests, under the immediate supervision of 
their owner, Dr. C. M. Bates, a skillful physician, assisted 
by Mrs. E. R. Worth, a most excellent housekeeper. 

The table is supplied with all the luxuries of the season, 
including the choicest of fresh milk, butter and eggs from 
the home farm. 

The extensive grounds are finely laid out with handsome 
lawns, shady walks and drives, croquet grounds, swings, etc. 

A splendid trout stream flows through the place, and 
game abounds in the neighboring hills. 

The climate is as near perfection, the year round, both 
for healthfuluess and enjoyment, as can be found in the 
world. 

There are more than twenty mineral springs, possessing 
various medicinal properties, and highly recommended for 
their healing virtues. 

The following is the analysis of the most popular, known 
as the Seltzer, Dutch and Magic Springs, by Prof. Rising of 
the University of California : 



LAKE COUNTY MINERAL SPRINGS. 



199 



Names of Springs. seltzer. 

Temperature 64 . 8° F. 

gr. per gal. 

Chloride of Sodium 0.723 

Bicarbobate of Soda 12.796 

Bicarbonate of Potasli 0.489 

Bicarbonate of Lime 52 . 015 

Bicarbonate of Magnesia.. 34.872 

Bicarbonate of Iron 1 267 

Bicarbonate of Manganese . trace 

Silica 5.245 

Alumina 1 . 565 

Organic Matter, trace 

Free Carbonic Acid 100.250 



DUTCH. 


MAGIC. 


70.5° F. 


82.4° F. 


gr. per gal. 


gr. per gal. 


1.862 


1.290 


18.348 


21.763 


0.770 


0.544 


57 . 302 


50.411 


67.634 


70.243 


1.341 


1.087 


trace 


trace 


7 . 126 


7.398 


0.117 


0.109 


trace 


trace 


87.S22 


74.462 



Total...: 209.252 



242.321 



227.367 



Soon after leaving Highland Springs by a trail, I came to 
the forks of two mountain streams, swollen to an unusual 
volume from three to five feet in depth by the heavy rains 
of the previous night and running like mill-races. After 
several unsuccessful attempts to cross, I at length succeeded, 
barely escaping being swept down by the strong current. 
Safely over, I wrung out my clothing and proceeded five 
miles through Big Valley to Kelseyville, four miles from 

SODA BAY, a favorite resort, situated on the shore of 
Clear Lake. The same evening I reached Glenbrook, pass- 
ing through a picturesque pine-bordered valley known as 
Cobb's, about five miles in length and one-half a mile in 
width, occupied for dairying and farming. 



GLENBBOOK OB BASSETT'S, for seventeen years 
the home of W. D. Bassett, a California pioneer, and also a 
favorite summer resort, is beautifully situated on a dashing- 
trout stream called Kelsey Creek, 2786 feet above the sea, 
twenty-eight miles from Calistoga, eleven miles from Kelsey- 
ville, three miles from Adams Springs, and six from 
Howard's and Seigler's. 

The property, embracing a fine tract of 480 acres, is ex- 
tensively improved with an exceptionally good hotel, a large 
airy dining-hall, several handsome cottages, bath house, etc., 
for the accommodation of 100 guests. 



200 CALIFORNIA. 

A large dairy supplies the best of butter and milk, the 
farm and garden fresh vegetables and fruits. The air is the 
purest, water excellent, and game abounds in the surround- 
ing pine-wooded hills. 

Mr. Bassett keeps a good liver}' of splendid horses. 

About six miles from Glenbrook, through a rolling pine- 
wooded country, and I reached 

SEIGLER SPRINGS, Mr. F. McCullough, proprie- 
tor. — None of the numerous mineral spring sanitariums of 
this section impressed me more favorably, both as to attract- 
iveness of situation and excellence of waters, than Seigler's. 

They are beautifully situated on the open, sunny slope of 
Seigler Mountains, 2800 feet above the sea, about 32 miles 
from Calistoga, 13 miles from Kelseyville, and six miles from 
Lower Lake. 

A tract of twenty or thirty acres is covered with springs, 
of any desired temperature to 130° Fahrenheit, with a choice 
of iron water, soda, magnesia, sulphur, arsenic, silica, or the 
purest mountain water. 

For the cure of rheumatism, gout, dropsy, dyspepsia, 
chills and fever, liver and kidney complaints, skin diseases 
and impurities of the blood generally they are very highly 
recommended. 

The improvements are extensive, embracing an excellent 
hotel, accommodating 75 guests, several fine cottages, first- 
class bathing facilities, including three warm plunge baths, 
and a very large swimming pool. 

The property embraces a splendid tract of 800 acres, 
finely wooded, with black and white oak, affording guests 
an excellent range for hunting and fishing, without trespass- 
ing on the neighboring estates. 

The hotel is open the year round, its stage making con- 
nection with stages at Lower Lake Monday, Wednesday 
and Friday, and at Glenbrook Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday. 

HOWAED HOT AND COLD MINERAL SPRINGS. 

These celebrated springs, owned by Mrs. Caroline Heisch, 
are very pleasantly situated in Seigler Valley, Lake County, 



THE BONANZA MINERAL SPRINGS. 201 

at an elevation of 2220 feet above the sea, six miles from 
Glenbrook, about the same distance from Lower Lake, and 
30 miles from Calistoga. 

There are fourteen springs, hot and cold, ranging in 
temperature from 58° to 109° Fah., very highly endorsed for 
the cure of dropsy, rheumatism, gout, catarrh, dyspepsia, 
scrofula, liver and kidney complaints, skin and blood dis- 
eases, chills and malarial fever. 

The situation is very inviting, the climate excellent and 
accommodations first-class. 

Besides a good hotel, with rooms for 140 guests, at from 
$10 to $12 per week, there are twelve cosy cabins, furnished 
with stoves, to rent from $3 to $4 per week. 

There are six hot and cold baths and one plunge bath, 
with a choice of water from iron, magnesia or sulphur 
springs. 

The property comprises 160 acres, supplying the hotel 
with milk, butter, eggs and vegetables. 

There are good camping grounds, free to all, with a 
charge of $1.00 per week for baths. 

There is good hunting and fishing in the neighborhood. 

A stage from the springs meets visitors at Lower Lake 
Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and at Glenbrook Tues- 
day, Thursday and Saturday, enabling them to go through 
from San Francisco in one day. 

THE BONANZA MINEEAL SPKINGS, Mr. H. Fern, 
owner and proprietor, are very pleasantly situated on the 
sunny, sheltered side of Seigler Mountain, near Putah 
Creek, in Lake County, at an elevation of 3600 feet above 
the sea, about one mile from Howard's and Seigler's, two 
miles from Adams', eight miles from Lower Lake, six miles 
from Glenbrook and thirty miles from Calistoga. 

There are ten springs, iron, soda, magnesia, sulphur and 
borax both cold and warm, of unsurpassed healing virtues. 

The situation, amidst the open, pine-clad, rolling hills 
is very inviting; climate delightful, about 10° cooler in 
summer than in the valleys; water excellent, and game 
abundant. 



202 CAL1F011N1A. 

There are very comfortable hotel accommodations, at 
from $10 to $12 per week, and several pretty furnished cot- 
tages, rented from $3 to $4.50 per week, including baths. 

The housekeeping and cooking is under the personal 
management of Mrs. Fern and daughters. 

There are splendid grounds for campers, who are 
charged fifty cents per week, and one dollar for six bath 
tickets. 

Mr. Fern meets visitors with his own team at either 
Glenbrook or Lower Lake, as requested. 

ADAMS' SPRINGS, among the most favorably known 
on the coast, their waters being exported for consumption 
abroad, are next visited. 

They are situated on Big Canon Creek, in Lake County, 
at an elevation of 3300 feet above the sea, about 31 miles 
from Calistoga and 10 miles from Lower Lake. 

The springs, five in number, and cold, were discovered 
about seven years ago, and are now owned by F. A. Miller, 
Esq. 

They are highly recommended for the cure of rheu- 
tism, dropsy, scrofula, weak lungs, dyspepsia, costiveness, 
liver, kidney and all blood diseases. 

There are good hotel accommodations for forty guests, 
at from $10 to $12 per week; seven furnished cottages, from 
$2.50 per week, and excellent camping grounds, at $1.00 per 
week, including use of water. 

There is good hunting and fishing in the neighborhood. 
Butter, milk and eggs and chickens are furnished from the 
place. 

Mr. Miller also pastures horses at $1.00 per week, from 
the middle of April to the middle of November. 

The best route to the springs, from San Francisco, is by 
C. P. B. B., foot of Market Street, to Lakeport, and thence 
by stage. Fare, $6.50. 

Analysis by Prof. Thomas- Price of San Francisco. One 
gallon contains the following : 



THE HAliBIN HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS. 203 

Carbonate of lime 28.714 grains. 

" magnesia 99.022 " 

" soda 57.036 

" iron 517 " 

Chloride of sodium 4.112 " 

Silica 7.218 

Organic matter 2.811 " 

Salt of potash traces only. 

Nitric acid " " 

Total solid contents per gallon 199.430 grains. 

From Adams Springs, I followed a blind trail until I lost 
it on the summit of a rugged mountain, sparsely covered 
with pine, overlooking a picturesque valley on the south; 
then taking a bee-line down its steep side for buildings seen 
in the distance, in about an hour, I came to a grist-mill on 
the bank of a beautiful stream, and soon after reached 

THE CELEBRATED HAEBIN HOT SULPHUR 
SPRINGS. They are charmingly situated on the eastern 
slope of the Coast Range of Mountains in Lake County, 
1700 feet above the sea, two and a half miles from the vil- 
lage of Middletown, and twenty-one miles from Calistoga.- 

The springs first discovered over twenty years ago, and 
successively owned by Capt. Ritchie, James Harbin and 
Richard Williams (deceased), are now the property of Mr. 
William Williams, and under his excellent personal man- 
agement, ably assisted by his associate, Mr. Thomas Mat- 
thews. 

They are unsurpassed on the Pacific coast for the cura- 
tive virtues of their waters, attractiveness of situation, en- 
joyableness and salubrity of climate, extent and excellence 
of improvements, and number of people resorting there the 
year round for health and pleasure. 

Among these remarkable springs is one known as the 
Arsenic, having a temperature of 108°, a hot iron and sul- 
phur spring, temperature 120°, and cold iron and magnesia 
springs, bursting forth near each other, with an inexhausti- 
ble flow of water, unexcelled for the cure of rheumatism, 
neuralgia, dropsy, kidney, liver and blood diseases and all 
skin and cutaneous affections. 



204 CALIFORNIA. 

The accommodations are of the most complete character 
throughout, and amply sufficient for two hundred and fifty 
guests. 

Besides the large main hotel, comprising the office, 
reading room, dining halls, and a fine annex, called "The 
Capital," with twenty elegant apartments, there is quite a 
village of handsome white cottages, known as the "Tom 
Collins" cottage, the "Bartlett," "Fern," "Yuba," "What 
Cheer," " Fourth of July," " Pine Mills " and "Bose " cot- 
tages, containing from two to five neatly furnished rooms 
each, opening on to broad verandas, facing the pleasant, sunny 
grounds. 

The bathing facilities, originally consisting of a single 
hollow log, are now among the most extensive and 
complete found on the coast, comprising about twenty 
separate baths, including five plunge baths, with a choice 
of water from the several springs, hot sulphur and iron and 
hot arsenic, at any temperature desired to 120°. 

There is also an excellent mud bath and cold shower 
baths ad libitum. 

The various apartments were found exceptionably clean 
and well furnished, and I was informed that separate baths 
were set apart for the exclusive use of a certain class of 
patients. 

The springs property embraces a fine tract of several 
hundred acres, and comprises, besides the improvements 
mentioned, a dairy, trout fishery, fruit and vegetable gar- 
den, etc., etc., supplying the table with the choicest fresh 
butter, milk, eggs, fowl, fish, etc. 

Game, deer, rabbit, quail, pigeons and grouse are found 
in the valley and neighboring hills. 

A. daily stage connects with trains at Calistoga. Fare, 
$6.00 from San Francisco. 

The springs are open the year round, with rates from 
to $15 per week. From Harbin's I proceeded to 



ANDEKSON'S SPBINGS, owned by Anderson & Pa- 
triquin. They arc very pictuivsquely situated on Putah 
Creek, Lake County, about five miles from Middletown and 
19 miles from Calistoga. 



THE GEYSERS. 205 

There are numerous hot and cold springs, in which iron, 
sulphur and magnesia predominate, well recommended for 
the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia, dropsy, etc., and a re- 
markable natural steam bath. 

A fifteen-room hotel and four cottages afford good ac- 
commodations for about fifty guests, at from $10 to $15 per 
week. 

The house farm supplies fresh butter, eggs, etc. 

MILLS' MINERAL SPRINGS.— I next visited Mills 
Mineral Springs, discovered by Mr. 0. H. Mills, the owner, 
in 1879. 

They are situated in the foot-hills, about a mile above 
Anderson's, at an elevation of 2500 feet above the sea, and 
comprise one hot sulphur, soda, sulphur and magnesia 
springs; temperature, 170°; two hot iron, soda and magne- 
sia, 170°, and one cold white sulphur, of highly approved 
medicinal virtues for the healing of rheumatism, kidney 
and skin diseases, dyspepsia, dropsy and kindred com- 
plaints. 

The property comprising 160 acres, well watered by 
mountain springs, affords excellent advantages for campers. 

There is good hunting and trout fishing in the neighbor- 
hood. 

The hotel charges are $10 per week. 

Climbing up the steep side of Cobb Mountain, I found a 
large spring of sulphur and alum water on the summit, 
near the cabin of an old mountaineer and guide, David 
Harrington. 

Prom thence I descended the eastern slope of the 
mountain about two miles to 

THE LITTLE GEYSERS, comprising a remarkable 
collection of boiling hot pools, in a state of constant and 
violent agitation, emitting sulphuric and other vapors, 
accompanied in places by smothered sounds and feeble 
spouts. 

They afford unusual facilities for hot sulphur baths of 
any desired temperature. 



206 CALIFORNIA. 

There are no hotel accommodations here at present, but 
excellent grounds for camping. 

These Geysers are accessible by wagon roads via Calis- 
toga or Cloverdale. 

THE BIG GEYSERS. — Following down a swollen, 
roaring mountain stream, the Little Pluton, about six miles, 
J ate at night, the white sulphurous vapors rising from, and 
floating among the rugged hills on the right, announced the 
Big Geysers, which rank with the Yosemiteand Big Trees as 
the greatest natural wonders of the Golden State. They are 
situated in Sonoma County, at an elevation of 1700 feet 
above the sea, and present the appearance of a mo an tain of 
slacking lime, its sides throbbing with intense heat, pouring 
out great volumes of hot water and steam, accompanied in 
many places with bubblings, sputterings, hollow mutter- 
ings and feeble spouts, suggestive of the mighty pent-up 
forces below. 

Early next morning I was exploring this remarkable nat- 
ural laboratory, and nearly scalding my hands by thrusting 
them into the Devil's Teakettle, Devil's Oven, Devil's 
Kitchen, Witches' Cauldron, and many other hot places, 
suggestive of the abode of his satanic majesty. By com- 
mon consent, the ''old fellow " reigns supreme here. His 
establishment comprises also the "Devil's Arm Chair," 
"Devil's Inkstand," " Devil's Machine Shop," "Devil's 
Post Office" and "Devil's Pulpit;" and as Major Ben. Tru- 
man says, " it is a devil of a place anyhow." 

I concluded my investigations by following down the 
River Styx, through "Devil's Canon," often enveloped in 
thick clouds of hot sulphurous vapors, which rose from the 
boiling pools around me. 

Of springs, there is no end, with a volume of water suf- 
ficient, hot and strong enough with alkalis, soda, salts, sul- 
phur, ammonia etc., to clean even the most corrupt Dem- 
ocratic or Republican politician. 

There are extensive bathing facilities, with a choice of 
water from iron, soda, sulphur, ammonia, magnesia, Epsom 
salts, alum, saltpeter, borax and other springs, ranging in 
temperature from 60 u to 195° Fahrenheit. 



SKAGGS' HOT SPRINGS. 207 

THE GEEAT GEYSER HOTEL, Wm. Forsyth, Esq., 
proprietor, is one of the most extensive and complete on the 
Pacific Coast, affording first-class accommodations for 150 
guests. 

There are Two Routes to the Geysers, one via. Central 
Pacific to Calistoga, and thence by the Foss stages, 25 miles, 
or by the North Pacific Railroad, 90 miles to Cloverdale, and 
thence 16 miles by Kennedy's stages, both through scenery 
of unsurpassed beauty and interest. 

Crossing the Angry Pluton. — It is about 16 miles from 
the Big Geysers to Cloverdale, the northern terminus of the 
San Francisco and North Pacific Railway, by an ordinarily 
splendid stage road, amidst the most picturesque and charm- 
ing landscape. 

The Pluton was still " booming," so deep and swift that 
I had searched in vain for several miles for a place where it 
would not be too extremely hazardous to attempt to ford it. 
Fortunately when near the regular stage crossing, I met a 
horseman, Edward Heald, a young man from Cloverdale, 
who very kindly offered to turn back and take me over. So 
mounting his horse behind him, the noble animal bore us 
safely over the raging flood. 

SKAGGS' HOT SPRINGS, one of the most popular 
health and pleasure resorts of this region, are very pleas- 
antly situated on the eastern foothills of the Coast Range, in 
Sonoma County, about eight miles west of Geyserville Sta- 
tion on the San Francisco and North Pacific Coast Railroad. 

The climate is unsurpassed for equability and salubrity, 
and the surrounding landscape very picturesque and in- 
viting. 

Game abounds in the neighboring hills, and the moun- 
tain streams afford good trout fishing. 

There are extensive and excellent hotel and cottage 
accommodations and bathing facilities for 200 guests, at 
from $12 to $14 per week. An abundant supply of fresh 
milk, butter and eggs is furnished by the home farm. 

The springs were discovered in 1856, and improved by 



208 CALIFORNIA. 

Mr. A. Skaggs, the present owner and proprietor, in 1857. 
Their flow of water is estimated at fifteen gallons per 
minute, having a temperature of 120° Fah. 

They are especially efficacious in the cure of rheuma- 
tism, rheumatic gout, lumbago, sciatica, neuralgia, bron- 
chitis, asthma, and diseases of the bladder and kidneys. 

There is telephonic and telegraphic communication to 
all points, and a post and express office at the hotel. 

A daily stage connects with trains at Geyserville . 

Analysis by Prof. Eug. W. Hilgard, Professor of Agri- 
cultural Chemistry, University of California. 

In 10,000 Parts. Grains per Gal. 

Chloride of potassium 0.035 0.200 

Sulphate of potassium 0.043 0.260 

Chloride of sodium 1.012 5.900 

Iodide of sodium Trace. Trace. 

Bi-carbonate of sodium 27.672 161.270 

Bi borate of sodium borax 4.542 26.470 

Carbonate of lithium 0.010 0.060 

Carbonate of barium 0.040 0.240 

Carbonate of strontium 0.004 0.024 

Carbonate of calcium 0.377 2.197 

Carbonate of magnesium 0.191 11.113 

Carbonate of iron 0.009 0.054 

Alumina 0.004 0.004 

Silica 1.205 7.023 

Total solid ingredients 35. 144 205.215 

LITTON SPRINGS AND COLLEGE. — Four miles 
further down this beautiful valley brought me to the celebra- 
ted Litton Seltzer and Soda Springs, delightfully situated 
at the foot-hills of the Coast Range, amidst the most charm- 
ing scenery imaginable. 

The springs are three in number — seltzer and soda, soda 
and iron, and sulphur ; the water of the former having acquired 
such a reputation as to demand its shipment in large quan- 
tities for consumption abroad. 

The property comprises 300 acres of high, gently rolling- 
lands, lightly wooded with handsome live oak, and highly 
improved with ten excellent hotel and cottage buildings, 
orchards, vineyards and spacious lawns. 



LITTON SPRINGS. 209 

Besides abundant fruit, free to all, a home dairy fur- 
nishes the table with the choicest butter and milk. 

The water supply is unlimited, drainage excellent, and 
location one of the most healthful hi the State. 

Since 1880, this highly favored spot has been the seat of 
the Litton Springs College, one of the best conducted insti- 
tutions of learning on the Pacific coast. 

There are at present about 80 young men in attendance 
under the able instruction of Prof. John Gamble, President, 
and his assistants, Profs. G. W. Kretzinger, R. T. Belcher, 
S. H. Shakspeare, Mrs. J. Gamble, Emil Lerch and W. M. 
France. 

In lieulthfulness, beauty and convenience of situation it 
is most admirably adapted for a popular resort for educa- 
tion, health and pleasure. 

The N. P. C. R. R. depot is within one-third of a mile 
of the grounds, 69 miles from San Francisco. 

Very Drunk on nothing but Wine. — En route to Calis- 
toga, for the purpose of crossing the swollen streams, I found 
it desirable to keep company with a German vineyardist, 
homeward bound, with a wagon load of farming and house- 
hold utensils. The roads were almost impassable in places, 
and in proportion as they grew difficult, my jolly companion 
drew on a great demijohn of wine, until at length he got very 
drunk, and soon after drove into a deep slough hole, and 
there stuck fast. I was then obliged, in spite of his pro- 
tests, to assume command, and by tearing down the fences, 
unloading the wagon, and hard pulling and lifting, suc- 
ceeded in getting through. 

It is greatly to be deplored, that one of California's most 
important industries should promote and depend for its 
prosperity upon the increase of intemperance in this and 
other lands. 

The Wonderful Petrified Forest. — About five miles 
from Calistoga, toward Santa Rosa, I reached the little cot- 
tage of Mrs. Ryder, the resident owner of this great natural 
wonder. Upon learning the object of my visit, I was shown 
the gate opening into the forest. Without difficulty I fol- 



210 CALIFORNIA. 

lowed the well-beaten paths, leading to these remarkable 
specimens of petrifaction; enormous trunks of the redwood, 
one, the " Pride of the Forest," 11^ feet in diameter and 
over 60 feet in length, changed to solid stone. 

They are all lying down, many of them having been cov- 
ered with several feet of earth. 

The forest was first discovered by hunters in 1871, taken 
as a Government claim by Charles Evans in 1872, and soon 
after opened to the public. 

Five miles further down Mark West Creek, through a 
picturesque, mountainous country, and late at night, I 
arrived at 

THE MAEK WEST HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS, John 
Simpson, proprietor, one of the most popular health resorts 
of Sonoma County. They are beautifully situated, 700 feet 
above the sea, surrounded by Mounts Washington, Lincoln 
and Grant, and are unexcelled in the State for the cure of 
rheumatism, dyspepsia, kidney, liver and kindred diseases. 
There are excellent hotel and cottage accommodations, and 
bathing facilities for 150 guests. 

Splendid drives, and good hunting and fishing in the 
neighborhood. 

Guests are received all the year round, and met with 
carriage or stage at Calistoga, ten miles, or at Sunta Rosa, 
nine miles distant. 

THE CELEBRATED BYRON HOT SPRINGS, Mr. 

L. R. Mead, of San Francisco, owner, are situated on the 
lower foothills of the Diablo range of Mountains, in Contra 
Costa County, two and a half miles from Byron Station, on 
the line of the C. P. R. R., 68 miles, or three hours' ride 
from San Francisco. 

These springs have been resorted to for their healing 
virtues by the native tribes, from times immemorial. The 
ruins of an old Indian village, including their place of 
burial, is still visible near by. It is however, only within 
the last few years that their many miraculous cures have 
brought them into conspicuous public notice and given 



THE CELEB HATED HYJloX HOT SPRINGS. 211 

them a first place among the great sanitariums of the coast, 
especially for the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia, liver and 
kidney complaints, impurities of the blood, and all skin 
diseases. 

They comprise, so far as known, fifteen different 
waters, including hot and cold salt, hot and cold sulphur, 
and different combinations of salt and sulphur, with mag- 
nesia and iron, both hot and cold. Of these remarkable 
springs, one known as the " Surprise," composed mainly of 
chloride of sodium and sulphate of magnesia, has acquired 
great notoriety on account of its cleansing, recuperative and 
rejuvenating influence upon the system, prostrated by the 
excessive use of alcoholic drinks. 

Both in analysis and in their action, these waters are 
almost identical with the celebrated Carlsbad of Bohemia, 
Austria. 

The bathing facilities are, with one or two exceptions, 
the most complete on the Pacific coast. Nearly every form 
of bath required can be had — the hot mud and hot salt baths 
being the principal ones. For the latter, the water emer- 
ging at a temperature of 120 : Far., is conducted in iron 
pipes to the new spacious bath house, where it is tempered 
to any degree to suit the requirement of the patient. 

The spring waters, for drinking purposes, comprising 
both warm and cold, are hardly less remarkable than those 
used more especially for bathing. 

Among them is one called the L. & K. (Liver & Kidney) 
Spring, named by a well-known gentleman of Sacramento, 
whom it cured of liver complaint of long standing. 

There is also one spring, which from its similarity of 
taste, is known as the Chicken Broth Spring. This is gently 
cathartic, and also an appetizer. 

The springs are open both winter and summer — the 
bath-house being heated during the winter — a carriage from 
the hotel meeting every train at Byron Station. Not only 
the wonderful curative properties of the waters, but their ac- 
cessibility, being situated so near San Francisco by an all- 
rail route, combine to make them the great health resort of 
this region. 



212 CALIFORNIA. 

TUSCAN SPRINGS.— Arriving at Red Bluff, 225 miles 
north of San Francisco, I proceeded to these remarkable 
springs, very pleasantly located in the foothills eight miles 
distant, at an elevation of 450 feet above the sea. They 
were first discovered by Dr. Veach in 1854, and are now 
owned by Mrs. J. C. Bradley, widow of the well-known 
Major Bradley, of the Mexican war, a California pioneer of 
'49, who settled in Tehama County in 1851. 

The springs, over 40 in number, cover several acres, and 
embrace a great variety of waters — white sulphur, iron and 
magnesia being their most prominent ingredients. The 
principal springs are No. 1, bathing; No. 2, white sulphur; 
No. 3, black; No. 4, consumptive; No. 5, yellow; and have 
proved very efficient for the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia, 
neuralgia, paralysis, liver and kidney complaints, salt rheum, 
tetter, and all skin diseases. 

There are good hotel accommodations for about 30 
guests, and the extensive grounds, comprising 80 acres of 
handsome oak- wooded rolling foothills, afford excellent and 
unlimited room for campers. 

The bathing facilities are ample — nine hot, cold and 
steam baths only a few rods from the hotel. 

A carriage conveys guests from Red Bluff to the Springs, 
over a good road for several miles, through a rich farming 
settlement. 

A ride of about 100 miles northward through a very inter- 
esting country, and we were in the midst of 

THE GREAT HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORTS 
OF SHASTA AND SISKIYOU COUNTIES. 

Here are numerous soda springs, and the best field for 
deer hunting and trout fishing in the State. 

| Hibbs' Soda Springs (unimproved), owned by J. A. 
Hibbs, are on the stage road, 62 miles north of Redding. 

The Lower Soda Springs, open as a summer resort, are 
very pleasantly situated a little off from the main road, 
about two miles above. 



SIS80NS. 213 

Next I reached 

THE UPPER SODA SPRINGS, 69 miles from Red- 
ding, R. W. Mannon, proprietor, a most delightful place, 
with a very comfortable hotel, and a spring of cool, spark- 
ling, delicious soda water, bursting forth close by, finely 
improved. 

They were first discovered by the Oregon Pioneers, and 
taken up by Ross McLeod. 

The property, comprising 160 acres, is very pleasantly 
situated on the dividing ridge between the head-waters of 
the Sacramento and Trinity Rivers, at an elevation of 
2250 feet above the sea. 

Deer and mountain goats are numerous, and the trout 
fishing excellent. 

The farm supplies the table with fresh butter, eggs, etc. 

Round trip fare, from San Francisco, $37.00. 

SISSONS. -Sissons, for twenty-two years the home of 
J. H. Sisson, is a very comfortable hotel, accommodating- 
fifty persons, delightfully situated, on a 640-acre homestead, 
twelve and one-fourth miles (air line) from the summit of 
Mount Shasta, 76 miles from Redding, 3441 feet above 
the sea. 

From June until late in October, it is one of the most 
enjoyable places of resort on the coast. 

It is surrounded by the grandest scenery of this region, 
in the midst of a veritable Paradise for the sportsman. 

Besides the home tract, Mr. Sisson owns 200 acres on 
the banks of the McCloud River— so famous for the unsur- 
passed trout fishing it affords. 

It has been improved with cabins, etc., for camping par- 
ties, for the exclusive use of the guests at Sisson's, and is 
without doubt the best private trout fishing reserve in Cali- 
fornia. 

The farm supplies the table with an abundance of fresh 
butter, eggs, milk, chickens, vegetables, etc., and a large 
artificial pond, salmon trout and carp at short notice. 

In addition to excellent mountain water, there is an iron 
spring in the garden, near the hotel. 



214 CALIFORNIA. 

It is 18 miles, by a good trail from Sisson's to the sum- 
mit of Mount Shasta, 11,000 feet above; the ascent and return 
requiring two days, and costing about $15.00 — everything 
furnished. 

I soon entered 

SHASTA VALLEY, which extends northward for 40 
miles, with an average width of about 14 miles. 

Mount Shasta towers among the clouds on the east, and 
the Scotch Valley Range lies on the west. 

Stock raising and dairying is the principal pursuit of the 
people. 

Jacob Deetz, the owner of a fine ranch near the southern 
border, remembered but six winters in twenty-three years 
during which stock suffered from cold, and two summers 
when the feed was cut short by drouth. 

Passing rapidly through Yreka, and over the moun- 
tains, I descended their northern slope into the famous 
Rogue River Valley of Southern Oregon. 



OREGON, 

The most northwesterly State in the Union, extends north 
and south about 300 miles, and 350 miles east and west, and 
contains an area oi' 95,274 square miles, or over 60,000,000 
acres. 

Its first discovery is generally attributed to Spanish nav- 
igators in the sixteenth century. Capt. Robt. Gray, of Bos- 
ton, sailed up the Columbia in 1792. Upon his explorations, 
the United States laid claim to the region now known as 
Oregon and Washington, which was formally ceded to this 
country by Spain, in 1819. 

Capt. Nathaniel Winship, of New England, made the first 
attempt at settlement in Oregon, locating at Oak Point, on 
the Columbia, in 1810. In 1811, John Jacob Astor estab- 
lished the trading post of Astoria, near the mouth of Colum- 
bia River. Its first occupation for agricultural purposes 
began in 1830, but owing to remoteness, and the unsettled 
question of possession, there were but few permanent set- 
tlers down to 1840. From this date population began to flow 
in, and in 1849 a Territorial Government was organized, with 
Gen. Jo. Lane as Governor. By the census of 1850, Oregon 
and Washington contained 13,294 inhabitants. That year 
Congress passed the Donation Act, granting 640 acres to any 
married couple, and 320 acres to each single man. This law 
so much encouraged immigration, that Oregon was admitted 
as a State in 1859, with a population of 52,465. But isola- 
tion, the perils of travel and occupation, and remoteness 
of markets for surplus products, have retarded her rapid 
development until a comparatively recent date. Since the 
establishment of safe and adequate means of transportation, 
and the projection and rapid construction of an extensive 
system of railways to and through every section, immigra- 
tion is pouring in rapidly from every quarter. The census 
of 1880 shows 174,767 people, or two to the square mile. 



216 OREGON. 

PHYSICAL FEATURES . 

Oregon is traversed from north to south by three great 
mountain ranges, causing the most marked difference of 
topography, climate, soil and productions. The Coast 
Range, much broken, and generally densely wooded with 
fir, cedar and pine, extends along the immediate coast, 
ranging in altitude from three to five thousand feet. 

The Cascade Mountains (a continuation of the Sierra 
Nevada chain) traverse the State nearly parallel to, and about 
100 miles distant from the Pacific. They reach an elevation in 
Oregon of over 11,000 feet, and are covered with thick forests 
of fir and spruce. About 150 miles east of the Cascade 
Range, commencing near the 44th degree of latitude, the 
Blue Mountains extend in a northeasterly direction. Much 
of their surface is extremely broken, of volcanic formation, 
less thickly wooded than the mountains to the west, the roll- 
ing foothills of the northwestern slope (especially bordering 
the Walla Walla Yalley) being excellently adapted to graz- 
ing, wheat and fruit growing. 

RIVERS. 

The Columbia River, the largest of this region — which, 
with its main tributaries, drains an area of more than 275,000 
square miles — rising in the Rocky Mountains, forms the 
northern boundary of the State from the eastern line of 
Umatilla County, to the ocean westward, a distance of nearly 
400 miles. It is navigable — excluding portages at the Cas- 
cades, the Dalles, at Priest's and Ruckland's Rapids, and at 
the mouth of the Methow — a distance of about 700 miles. 

The Columbia receives the Willamette— its chief trib- 
utary, and the most important river in Oregon — a little over 
100 miles from the sea. Rising in the Cascade Mountains, 
it flows north through the central portion of the famous 
Willamette Valley. It is navigable for ocean steamers to 
Portland, 115 miles from the ocean; and for river steamers 
during high water — by means of locks at Oregon City — to 
Eugene City, 150 miles from its mouth; and as far as Salem, 
51 miles above Portland, at low stages of water. Clackamas, 
Tualatin, Yamhill, Santiam, Luckiamute, Calapooia, the 



Oregon Health and Pleasure -Resorts. 



PORTLAND ADVERTISEMENTS. 




COLUMBIA RIVER SCENERY. 



6€i 



I 



wm 



W 1 






It 99 



J. H. BRENNER, Proorietor. 




The Leading Hotel of 1 Portland. 

Modern Improvements.— The Table is the Finest in the City. 
Secure Your Eooms Before Arriving by Telegraphing "The Esmond.' 



Oregon Health and Pleasure Resorts. 

PORTLAND ADVERTISEMENTS. 



ationery. 



J. K. GILL & CO. 

Publishers. 



Maps of Oregon and. Washington. Price, 75 cents each. 



Naw York Office : 

32 Cedar St. 
CHAS. HODGE, 



ESTABLISHED, 1851. 
T. A. DAVIS, 



GEO. W. SNELL, 



San Francisco Office : 
116 Front St. 
F. K. ARNOLD. 



Hodge, Davis & Co. 




WHOLESALE DRUGGISTS. 

Proprietors of Oregon Kidney Tea, tie Great Cure for Kidney Diseases. 

$1 per Bottle. 92 and 94 FRONT STREET. 

INTERNATIONAL llOTEL, 

Cor. 3d and E Sts., Three Blocks from R.R. Depots and Steamer Landings. 

THE BEST DOLLAR A DAY HOUSE IN PORTLAND. 

e 



as 

.© 




isiiiiin 



i'i iii|«i ; 



Lewiston & Higgins, Proprs. 



PHYSICAL FEATURES OF OREGON. 217 

Mary and Long Tom rivers, are its principal tributaries. 
On the banks of these streams, and in the fertile valle}'s and 
foot-hills watered by them, the present population and most 
important cities, towns and industries in Oregon are located. 
The Snake River — the nest largest affluent of the Columbia, 
rises in Shoshone Lake, Wyoming, and forms the eastern 
boundary of the State, from Riverside to near the mouth of 
the Grand Ronde River, a distance of about 150 miles. It 
is navigable from its mouth at Ainsworth, over 150 miles to 
Lewiston, Idaho. The Grand Ronde, Powder, Burnt, Mal- 
heur and Owyhee rivers are the principal streams flowing 
into it. 

The principal rivers of Oregon flowing into the Pacific 
are the Rogue, Coquille, Umpqua, Siuslaw, Alsea, Yaquina, 
Siletz, Nestucca, Trask, Wilson's and Nehalem. 

LAKES. 

Klamath, Summer, Albert, Fish, Silver, Goose, Warner, 
Harney, Wapato, Devil's, Loon, Diamond, Crater, Crescent 
and Odell, are the largest lakes. 

BAYS AND HARBORS. 

Coos, Yaquina and Tillamook Bays, afford safe harbors, 
accessible except in stormy weather, for vessels drawing 
from eight to twelve feet of water, and are becoming of con- 
siderable commercial importance. Yaquina Bay is the ocean 
terminus of the O. P. R. R. , and now a port of entry. 

VALLEYS. 

The principal valleys of Oregon are the Willamette, 
Rogue, Walla Walla, Powder, Grande Ronde, Wallowa, 
John Day, Des Chuttes and Klamath. 

GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 

The geological formation of Oregon, as shown by the de- 
posits, is evidently the result of volcanic upheavals during 
the Cretaceous period. The surface of Eastern Oregon con- 
sists largely of immense deposits of volcanic matter. West 
of the Cascade Range the older rocks are generally buried 
under the deposit of the Tertiary and Post-Tertiary period. 
Salt-water seas, and lakes covered, at one period, the plains 
and valleys of the Pacific Slope. 



218 OREGON. 

ROGUE RIVER VALLEY is a magnificent stretch of 
country, extending not along the river of that name, but 
southward therefrom for more over 30 miles, with a most ge- 
nial climate, very fertile, and growing excellent fruit, in 
great variety, as well as cereals and root crops. 

Jacksonville, Phoenix and Ashland are its most import- 
ant towns. 

There are warm sulphur springs near the latter place. 

At Smith's Ranch and Store, on Wolf Creek, I left the 
stage, and took a foot trail over a steep mountain to the 
southern terminus of the Oregon and California Railway. 

Proceeding by a construction train, a big slide was en- 
countered, covering the track near Cow Creek Canon. 

Thus detained, I met a pioneer, J. B. Nichols, the 
owner of a 2000-acre ranch at the base of Table Mountain, 
where he had lived thirty-one years . During that whole period 
Iris stock had never suffered from drouth, and only two win- 
ters from snow. 

Salmon were so plentiful in the streams that a single 
railway construction blast killed sixty in Cow Creek by 
concussion. 

About 36 miles beyond Roseberg I visited 

THE PAYTON MINERAL SPRINGS. They are sit- 
uated immediately on the line of the Oregon and California 
Railway, in the beautiful valley of Yoncolla, two miles south 
of Drain's Station, and 166 miles from Portland. 

They are surrounded by the most charming landscapes, 
composed of gently rolling hills and handsome dales, finely 
wooded with fir, cedar, maple, oak and other indigenous 
trees, through which course numerous clear mountain 
streams, 

The climate is a delightful mean the year round— mild, 
yet invigorating, and free from all malaria. 

The springs burst forth fresh and sparkling a sliort dis- 
tance from the hotel, and have been very highly endorsed by 
Prof. Philip Harvey, of Portland, and others too numerous 
to mention, for the cure of rheumatism, dyspepsia, asthma, 
scrofula, liver complaints, visceral obstructions, and all 
blood and skin diseases. 



MINERAL SPRING 8. 219 

The specific gravity of the water is by Bumes' Hydrome- 
ter, 1.01, yielding 435 grains of solid matter to the gallon, 
of which 173 grains are chlorides of sodium, 145 grains 
chloride of magnesium and 115 grains chloride of calcium. 
They also contain a small quantity of carbonate of lime and 
iron, and considerable free carbonic acid. 

The grounds embrace a splendid 320-acre tract — adjoin- 
ing the well known Jesse Applegate 6000-acre estate — through 
which flows Elk Creek, a tributary of the Umpqua. 

It is finely wooded, watered by living streams and springs, 
and is the resort of deer, fox, partridge, quail, and other 
game. 

The improvements comprise, besides a good hotel, a carp 
pond, hennery and garden supplying the table with the luxu- 
ries of fresh fish, butter, eggs, milk, vegetables, fruit, and 
fowl. 

The springs are owned by Dr. Payton and Mr. Cart- 
wright, who together with Mrs. Cartwright, an excellent 
housekeeper, devote their entire attention to providing for 
the health, comfort and pleasure of their guests. 

All trains stop, when requested, directly opposite the 
hotel. 

Between Payton's and Portland, I examined the Soda- 
ville, Aurora, and Wilhoit Mineral Springs, from two to 
twenty miles from the line of the Oregon and California 
Kailroad. 

SODAVILLE SODA SPBINGS are situated about 18 
miles southeast of Albany, in Lynn County, in the western 
foot-hills of the Cascade Mountains, four miles from the line 
of the railway at the town of Lebanon. 

The water is agreeable to the taste, and well recom- 
mended. 

The situation is healthful and pleasant, and visitors will 
find comfortable accommodations at Foot's Hotel, close to 
the springs. 

THE AUBORA MINERAL SPBINGS, Dr. Giesy, 
owner. These springs, two in number, are situated about 
one and a half miles from the Oregon and California Bail- 
road, at Aurora, 27 miles south of Portland. 



220 OREGON. 

They are a powerful saline, and highly recommended for 
dyspepsia, scrofula, skin and kidney diseases. 

Analysis made by J. H. Bell, M. D. 

GRAINS. 

Chloride of Calcium 474 128 

Chloride of Sodimn 350.00 

Magnesium '. 19.872 

Carbonate of Iron Traces. 

Carbonate of Lime Traces. 

Silica : .. 10.608 

Organic Matter 1 . 016 

Total 861 . G24 

THE CELEBEATED WILHOIT MINERAL 
SPRINGS. — The Wilhoit Mineral Springs are situated 
upon Rock Creek, in Clackamas County, Oregon, in the 
western foot-hills of the Cascade Mountains, at an elevation 
of about 3000 feet above the sea. 

Though first discovered and taken up by John Wilhoit, 
for their mineral properties, in 1868, they have been known 
to the pioneer hunters of this region as the great deer-lick 
for over thirty years. 

Hundreds of deer, cougar and other wild animals have 
been killed at these springs. 

Horses have been known to break out of their pastures, 
miles away, to satisfy their thirst for these waters. 

They are, without doubt, among the most remarkable in 
the world for their curative qualities and agreeableness as 
a beverage. 

With little or no effort made to advertise them, they 
have already become the principal health resort of this 
whole section, and their waters in such local demand that 
two four-horse teams were constantly employed during last 
season, at an expense of $2600, to supply Portland alone. 

They are immensely popular with the people of the 
Willamette Valley, who would probably rebel against any 
attempt to exclude them from their customary use. 

From summer until autumn they flock here by the hun- 
dreds, camping in the pleasant fir groves bordering, and 
when the season is over drawing the water to their homes 
by the barrel. 



WILHOJT MINERAL SPRINGS. 221 

There is probably not a settler for tweuty miles around 
but will tell you of thair remarkable cures. 

They are especially efficacious in the cure of dyspepsia, 
kidney complaints, skin and nervous diseases, and are a sure 
antidote for sea sickness. 

The springs are seven in number, yielding an in- 
exhaustible supply of one of the most delicious, sparkling, 
appetizing and refreshing natural beverages ever dis- 
covered. 

The time will come when the Wilhoit Mineral Springs 
will take a front rank among the most famous natural saui- 
tariums of the world— become the Saratoga of the Pacific 
Coast — and when their waters will be as widely known and 
drank as those of the most celebrated. 

Nature has provided here everything necessary for a great 
popular watering-place, a very pleasant and healthy situation, 
sheltered by handsome groves of fir, with numerous crystal 
springs bursting from the hill-sides close at hand, admirable 
camping-grounds, an abundance of trout in the brooks, and 
game — -deer, grouse, pheasant, etc., in the foot-hills. 

This valuable property is now owned by the Wilhoit 
Springs Mineral Water Company, incorporated April 30th, 
1881, Messrs. A. Labbe, President, R. S. McLeran, Secre- 
tary, stock owned by Labbe Bros, and McLeran Bros., with 
their principal office and agency at LabbeBros., S.E. corner 
Second and Washington Streets, Portland, Oregon. 

There are at present good accommodations at the springs 
hotel for all who may come, excellent fare, home comforts, 
hot and cold mineral baths, etc., under the efficient manage- 
ment of Mr. McLeran and wife, who spare no pains to pro- 
vide everything possible for their health and comfort. 

The company, who own a fine tract of 200 acres sur- 
rounding the springs, embracing a promising vein of coal 
about to be developed, contemplate the building, at an early 
day, of a railroad from Portland, and the expenditure of 
large sums in improving and beautifying the grounds. 

Analysis of Wilhoit Mineral Spring Water, made by 
Prof. John A. Veatch, M. D., April 8th, 1869. 



222 OREGON. 

CONTENTS OF ONE WINE GALLON. 

Cubic Tnches. 

Carbonic Acid Gas 338.44 

Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium 291 .00 

Carbonate of Soda 87.57 

Carbonate of Magnesia 85 . 32 

Carbonate of Lime . 32 . 23 

Carbonate of Protoxide of Iron 6 . 00 

Sulphate of Soda 3.40 

Sulphate of Magnesia 6 . 45 

Total solid contents 422.00 

PORTLAND, the commercial metropolis of the Pa- 
cific northwest, is situated at the head of ocean steamship 
navigation, on the banks of the Willamette River, 12 miles 
from its confluence with the Columbia, and 115 miles from 
the Pacific. It lies mainly along its left bank, the suburbs 
extending to the base of the fir-clad foothills of the Coast 
Range, which, rising to an elevation of several hundred 
feet, encircle it on the west and south. It is regularly laid 
out, with broad streets, lighted with gas, and traversed by 
street cars on its principal thoroughfares. An abundant 
supply of excellent water is distributed by iron pipes 
throughout the city. 

Front street is chiefly occupied by ware and wholesale 
houses, and the steamship and railroad companies, control- 
ling the ocean, river and rail transportation of this entire 
region. Its principal trade centers between Front and 
Fourth streets, and is represented in its various departments 
by large, substantial, handsome blocks of iron, brick and 
stone. The resident portion is well built, and ornamented 
by many spacious, elegant mansions, the homes of its most 
opulent citizens. Educational and religious institutions are 
well sustained, its public schools and churches costing over 
$300,000. 

New-Market Theater, the Masonic, Odd Fellows', Turn 
Yerein and other Halls, afford commodious and convenient 
facilities for the frequent plays, lectures, readings, etc., 
provided for the entertainment and instruction of the people. 
A Library Association of over 300 members and 11,000 vol- 



PORTLAND. 223 

urnes, is in a flourishing condition; a free reading-room and 
library is also provided by the Young Men's Christian Asso- 
ciation. The Press is ably represented by the Daily and 
Weekly Oregonian, and numerous other papers and period- 
icals. Over 30 hotels and boarding-houses furnish ample 
and excellent accommodations suited to all classes of the 
traveling public. Her population, now numbering about 
25,000, and rapidly increasing, is derived from the best ele- 
ments of our home and foreign immigration, intelligent, 
energetic and progressive. Life on the streets presents that 
wide-awake aspect characteristic of the great business cen- 
ters of our stimulating northern climates. The fresh air, 
clear complexions, intelligent faces, vigorous and well devel- 
oped physique of the people, indicate that the finest types of 
manhood and womanhood are here finding homes and pros- 
perous occupations. 

Established industries are pushed with great vigor, and 
every opportunity seized upon for utilizing the abounding 
resources awaiting development on every hand. Millions of 
acres producing the choicest cereals; the greatest timber re- 
serve of the continent, which generations will not exhaust; 
deposits of coal and iron sufficient for all the demands of trans- 
portation and manufacturing; the most extensive and valua- 
ble salmon fisheries in the world, lie at her doors, and pay 
generous tribute to her commerce. 

Whatever importance other places may assume in the 
progress of the development of the immense resources of 
this great region, Portland, by reason of her unrivalled nat- 
ural advantages, commanding through the enterprise and 
concentration of the capital and interests of the great com- 
panies already operating over 4000 miles of railroad, ocean 
and river transportation, with important extensions in course 
of construction, the internal commerce of over 250, 000 square 
miles of one of the richest portions of the Union, will not 
only maintain her present commercial supremacy, but rap- 
idly rise in population, business and wealth, and hold her 
position as one of the three great cities of the Pacific Coast. 



224 OREGON. 

Excursions from Portland. — Trip No. 1 — Up the Willa- 
mette Valley to Boseburg, at the Head of the Umpqna 
Valle//, and then, to Corvallis, in the Month of March. 
Round trip, 700 miles. 

The Willamette Valley (proper) extends from the Co- 
lumbia River on the north, 125 miles southward, to the base 
of the Calapooia Mountains, and from east to west from the 
Cascade to the Coast Range of Mountains, comprising, in- 
cluding the foot-hills, more than 4,000,000 acres of the 
richest agricultural, pastoral and fruit lands. 

It is traversed, lengthwise, by the Oregon and Califor- 
nia Railway, now operated on the east side of the Willa- 
mette its entire length, and as far south as Glen dale, 262 
miles, and west of the river 96 miles to Corvallis. 

Along these lines of road there are more than forty 
thriving villages, towns and cities. Of these Oregon City 
Salem, Albany, Harrisburg, Eugene City and Roseburg are 
the most important. 

They run through the heart of the valley, and fairly ex- 
hibit its beauty and fertility. 

Its special features are a level surface, forests of ever- 
green, fir and spruce bordering or surrounding green prairie 
openings and meadow lands. 

The present is one of the most backward seasons ever 
known, but the grain is about six inces high, the pasturage 
good, the stock looking well, and the numerous orchards are 
beginning to bloom. 

It is impossible to have every good thing at any one 
place and time; and while the people of Western Oregon 
are blessed with such abundant rains that crop failures are 
almost unknown, they suffer from extremely bad roads dur- 
ing the winter season. 

The low lands are very wet, and spring plowing just 
commenced, nearly a month later than usual. 

There is considerable ditching, but not half enough. 
The country impresses me much more favorably than the 
thrift and enterprise of the settlers occupying it. 

The average condition of the farms, buildings, fences 



EXCURSIONS FROM PORTLAND. 225 

and other improvements is much inferior to those of our 
more prosperous agricultural communities of the same age 
in the West. 

I am satisfied that the products of the Willamette Valley 
would be increased two-fold by an intelligent, thorough sys- 
tem of tillage of the area now farmed. The old settlers 
themselves admit this; they have little ambition as agricul- 
turists beyond getting a comfortable living in the easiest 
manner. 

Hitherto, until quite recently, there has been no encour- 
agement for production in excess of home demands. The 
costs of transportation have been so great that tlie producer 
has often received little or no profit for his labor. But a 
new era is now dawning, not only for the farmer, but for all 
classes in the Pacific Northwest. Competing lines by rail 
and ocean will soon bid for the carrying traffic of Oregon. 

The tourist who admires scenic beauty will be charmed 
with the landscape, especially surrounding Harrisburg, 
Eugene City, Cottage Grove, and the villages of Drain's, 
Rice Hill and Oakland, beyond the divide in the foot-hills 
of the Calapooia Mountains. 

At Oakland the train was boarded by the freshest, mer- 
riest and most intelligent company of young men and women 
I have seen for many a day. They were native-born, and 
students at a seminary located here. 

On the west side of the river the general elevation is a 
little higher than on the east. 

The soil is a dark sandy or alluvial loam, the foot-hills 
equally as rich as the bottom lands. 

A settler by the name of Clancy, living on Gale Creek, 
in Washington County, says his neighbor Schultz raised last 
year 45 bushels of wheat to the acre upon the burnt lands, 
without plowing or harrowing, simply brushing the seed in 
with a tree-top. 

There are tens of thousands of acres in the Burnt Dis- 
trict of the Coast Range susceptible of profitable cultiva- 
tion. It grows the choicest fruits and berries. Game and 
fish abound, the water is excellent, and the climate 
healthy. 



226 OREGON. 

Trip No. 2. — From Portland to Astoria, Tillamook and 
Yaquina Bays, Oregon, on Steamer Yaquina. Bound 
trip, 430 miles. 

The new, staunch little steamer Yaquina, loaded with 
railroad building material for the Oregon Pacific Railroad, 
a full list of passengers —including master mechanic, en- 
gineers, surveyors, traders, prospectors and others — sailed 
from Portland, at five in the morning, bound for San 
Juan Island, Puget Sound, via Tillamook and Yaquina 
Bays, Oregon, and Gray's Harbor, Washington Terri- 
tory. Ned Moody, an experienced master and pilot, stood 
by the wheel, and gave the writer the benefit of his thorough 
knowledge of the great water-ways of this region. 

The Willamette is here a considerable stream, broad and 
deep enough for large ships, its botfom covered with cotton- 
wood, fir and spruce prevailing upon the uplands. The few 
settlers are engaged chiefly in dairying and logging. Swan, 
Sauvie's, Nigger Tom's and Coon Islands are soon passed. 
Twelve miles from Portland we sight the old settlement of 
Vancouver and take leave of the Willamette. 

The Columbia is one of the mighty rivers of the world, 
broad, deep and rapid. Its descent affords a succession of 
most glorious views, and subjects of great interest. Dense 
forests of stately fir and spruce, unbroken excepting a little 
here and there by fires and the woodman's ax, extend along 
both banks from the ocean almost to The Dalles, and as far 
into the interior as the eye can reach. Bold rocky head- 
lands, and frowning snow-capped cliffs and peaks, alternate 
with smooth rolling hills and green meadows along this 
grand review. 

Mounts Hood, St. Helen's, Ranier, Jefferson and xldams, 
raise their white, majestic heads among the clouds, thousands 
of feet above the timber line. Salmon fisheries, sawmills, 
villages, islands, rivers, creeks, steamers, vessels and fish- 
ing-boats, are passed in rapid succession. We met the Bo- 
nita, Clatsop Chief, Toledo, Jos. Kellogg, Manzanillo, Hay- 
ward and Fleetwood — small, swift, stern -wheelers plying 
between Portland and Astoria, and these places and Kalama 



EXCURSIONS FROM PORTLAND. 227 

and points on the Cowlitz, and other tributaries of the Co- 
lumbia. Warriors' Bock, Martin's Bluff, Coffin Eock, Car- 
roll's Point, Green's Point, Bunker Hill, Oak Point, Cape 
Horn, Cooper's Point, Pillar Rock, Jim Crow Mountain, 
Tongue Point and Saddle-Back Mountain, are the most 
prominent and interesting landmarks; St. Helen's, Columbia 
City, Ranier, Kalama, Cathlamet and Westport, are the 
principal villages; Batchelors, Deer, Sand, Martin's, Car- 
roll's, Walker's, Fisher's, Crim's, Puget and Woody, the 
larger islands; St. Helen's, Martin's, Walker's, and Hog's 
Back, the bar obstructions. 

Six miles below Vancouver we reach the first of the thir- 
ty-six salmon canneries lining the banks of the lower Colum- 
bia. In the brief period of twelve years, this industry has 
grown to such proportions that a single firm, Kinney's, pack- 
ed 32,000 cases during the season. It is estimated that the 
annual salmon product of the Columbia, Frazer, Rogue and 
Umpqua rivers, exceeds 1,000,000 cases, containing forty- 
eight 1-lb cans each; the yield of the Columbia river alone 
amounting to 550,000 cases, valued at upwards of $3,000,000. 
The fishing season commences on the first of April, and con- 
tinues till the first of August. The canneries furnish boats 
and nets, and pay the fishermen two-thirds the value of all 
the fish caught, ranging from 50 to 60 cents each. The fish- 
ing boats are from 22 to 24 feet in length, and from 6h to 7| 
feet wide, each carrying two men, and a gill-net from 250 to 
350 fathoms long, and about 40 g^-inch meshes deep. The 
average salmon weighs about 24 lbs., three and a half usually 
filling a case. They are occasionally caught weighing over 
80 lbs., but the medium sized are preferred. When a few 
miles from Astoria, the Columbia rapidly widens, being 
seven miles across from Gray's Bay, Washington Territory, 
to John Day's, in Oregon. A strong ocean breeze whitens 
this broad expanse with foaming sea-caps; a fleet of brave 
fishermen under full sail are darting in every direction, many 
of the boats showing half their keel's length. It is perilous 
business in stormy weather — more than seventy daring fel- 
lows having been drowned last year, by venturing too far 
among the angry breakers at the bar. 



228 BEG ON. 

Rounding Tongue Point, and touching a few moments at 
a salmon cannery, at 5:50 p. m. we are alongside the wharf 
at 

ASTORIA, the largest city on the Columbia River, is 
situated on the left bank, about 12 miles from its mouth. 
It was founded by John Jacob Astor in 1811, and contains a 
resident population of 3981 inhabitants. Its most impor- 
tant industries are salmon canning, lumber manufacturing 
and commercial trade; the aggregate value of its export 
shipments during 1881, amounting to upwards of $3,000,000. 
The surrounding country is mostly covered with forests of 
cedar, spruce, hemlock, white and yellow fir, the area 
adapted to agriculture being quite limited. The rainfall is 
somewhat excessive, but the climate equable and healthful. 
The great advantages of Astoria as a shipping point, will, 
in conjunction with her other resources, ultimately build up 
a large city here. Public and private schools and churches 
are well sustained. The various branches of business rep- 
resented appear to be in a flourishing condition. Her saw- 
mills cut upwards of 6,000,000 feet of lumber annually. A 
tannery is in successful operation. It presents excellent 
advantages for ship-building, which will doubtless soon be 
improved. 

Veins of coal have been discovered at the base of Saddle 
Mountain, about ten miles distant, but not sufficiently de- 
veloped to determine their probable extent. The business 
portion of the city is mainly built upon piles, and is one of 
the cleanest and most wholesome in the Union. The sewer 
abomination, which poisons the atmosphere of so many of 
our towns and cities, does not exist. The daily ebb and flow 
of the tide removes all filth more thoroughly than can any 
human agency. 

Astoria is the headquarters of the most extensive salmon 
fisheries and canneries in the world. It is now the height 
of the fishing season. The Columbia river, for twenty miles 
from its mouth, is literally alive with fishermen; their nets 
would stretch from shore to shore every few rods of the 
whole distance. The citv front for several miles is a vast 



230 OBEGON. 

collection of fishing outfits — boats, nets, reels, drying-racks, 
canneries, etc. 

Desiring to examine this great industry thoroughly, I de- 
termined first to see how the salmon were caught. For this 
purpose I proceeded to one of the largest canneries and 
made known my wishes. They smiled all around, looked at 
me, as if to see whether I meant it — and said I would proba- 
bly find some one to take me out, though there wasn't any 
fun in it! — that men were drowned almost every day — two 
yesterday, two the previous day, etc. I then went out among 
the fishermen, some of whom were going and coming with 
their boats all the time. They were of many nationalities, 
Italians and Scandinavians predominating, a strong, hardy, 
dare-devil set! 

When I told them what I wanted, they invariably looked 
upon me with a broad smile, and expressions of mingled doubt 
and curiosity, but upon being assured that I was in earnest, 
readily agreed to let me go with them. Now came the dif- 
ficulty of finding a party starting and returning at times to 
suit other engagements. 

The best of the fishing is at the mouth of the river, 
where hundreds of the fishermen rendezvous at Sand Island, 
improving the best stages of the tide day and night; fre- 
quently, if the catch is good, remaining out from 20 to 60 
hours, sending up the salmon by steam tenders, which ply 
between them and the canneries. 

Finally I found, as I supposed, my man! He was to 
start early in the evening and return at daybreak, and wanted 
to hire a good oarsman for the night. I told him that I was 
the son of a fisherman, and had rowed everything, from an 
Indian canoe to a schooner, and was a man of muscle and 
endurance! He seemed to be favorably impressed, and at 
once engaged my services, agreeing to pay therefor the usual 
price. But he failed to meet me at the appointed place of 
starting. The next fisherman I consulted on the subject, 
said a steamboat had just cut his net "all to h— 11, " and he 
couldn't go out again that night. There still remained one 
chance to get down among the fishermen, and back again to 
Portland in time to start on Monday, with Captains Kellogg 



ASTORIA SALMON INDUSTRY. 231 

and Smith, on their first attempt to navigate by steamer the 
upper Cowlitz river. 

The Ilwaco Steam Navigation Co., (Captain Gray, agent) 
run a daily line of boats from Astoria to Ilwaco, where they 
make connection with the Shoalwater Bay Transportation 
Co.'s steamers and Loomis' stage line through to Olympia. 
Touching at Forts Stevens and Canby, and passing through 
the thickest of the fishing fleet, calling at several of their 
stations for salmon — it affords not only a excelleut opportu- 
nity to witness all the details of salmon catching, but a 
splendid pleasure excursian. 

The Saturday boat leaves Astoria at 8 a.m. Our first land- 
ing was at Fort Stevens, situated on a low sand beach, seven 
miles down on the left. Sam. Adair has a fishing station 
here. 

From thence eight miles to Fort Canby, our course lay 
directly through the thickest of the fishing fleet; the river 
here, six miles in width, was literally a network of seines, 
from the meshes of which it would seem no salmon could 
escape. It was impossible to keep the steamer clear of them 
without making unreasonable detours, and we run through 
and over more than thirty nets, cutting several in two, and 
dragging in our return a dozen fathoms of one that caught 
in the screw of a disabled steam launch which we stopped to 
take in tow. 

At Sand Island we found a numerous fleet of fishing boats. 
The island belongs to the Government, but is leased tq a 
salmon cannery, for a term of years, at $500 a year. 

About three miles beyond, on the Washington shore, lies 
Fort Canby, occupying a delightful situation in a sheltered 
cove a short distance from Cape Disappointment light- 
house. 

While discharging freight at the Government wharf, a 
fishing boat came alongside and threw on board 181 splen- 
did salmon, the catch of four boats during the night. 

Two miles further brings us to Ilwaco, very pleasantly 
situated on the beach, under the fir-covered foot hills of the 
Coast Range. Loomis & Co. own a good wharf here, 1260 
feet in length, with a frontage 100 by GO feet. 



232 OREGON. 

Returning, we called at several fishing stations for sal- 
mon, receiving altogether quite a deck load. One boat brought 
us 91, taken since nine o'clock the previous evening, but this 
is twice the usual catch for this season. The best fishing is 
in the south channel, and sometimes outside of the bar, but 
it is attended with great danger. They go out with the ebb 
tide and fish in with the flood. If the salmon are plentiful, 
they are tempted to keep their nets in as long as possible, 
and are frequently overtaken and swamped and drowned in 
the breakers, which rise very suddenly upon the turning of 
the tide. Hundreds have lost their lives in this manner, 
and by storms — scarcely a day passing during the fishing 
season which does not add to the list. 

Having seen how and where the salmon were caught, I 
next visited 

M. J. Kinney's Canning Establishment, not only the 
largest on this coast, but in the world! Over 400 hands are 
employed in catching and preparing the salmon for market. 
Their outfit consists in part of 95 fishing boats, from 23J to 
25| feet long and 7 feet wide, built in the strongest manner, 
from the best models, costing $200 each. The same number 
of nets, from 250 to 300 fathoms in length and four fathoms 
deep, made from the strongest linen thread, worth a dollar a 
pound, each net costing $450, and lasting only one year. 

Besides the extensive wharf and buildings used in the 
canning operation, there are seven great piers, 275x60 feel, 
fitted up with racks for drying the nets. Last year they put 
up 50,000 cases, and expect to can 35,000 cases this season. 
About half of their entire product was shipped to the east- 
ern cities of the Union, but their largest orders now come 
from Europe. They are now loading 10,000 cases upon a 
great iron ship for Liverpool, which will carry away on her 
return over a quarter million dollars worth of canned salmon 
from Astoria alone. 

Mr. Kinney has built up his immense business in the 
brief period of six years, and such is the demand for his 
brand of these goods, that its expansion seems to be only 
limited by the salmon catch; which, while increasing in the 



KINNEY'S GREAT SALMON CANNERY 



233 



aggregate, is likely to dimmish so far as individual firms are 
concerned. 

Beginning at the wharf, where these splendid fish are re- 
ceived, I followed them through all the various operations of 
cleaning, packing, curing, testing, labeling, etc., to which 
they are subjected before ready for the market. 




First. — A dozen or fifteen salmon at a time are arranged 
side by side upon a long table, when two Chinamen, with 
great knives, cut off their heads, tails and fins, and remove 
their entrails, at the rate of 1500 a day. The rejected 
parts are thrown down a chute, and taken away to the oil- 
works. 



234 OREGON. 

Second. — The fish are carefully cleaned, scraped and 
scaled by two Chinamen, and passed on to No. 5, who, with a 
single stroke of a machine, cuts each into five pieces, four 
and a half inches long, the exact length of the can which is 
to receive them. 

Sixth. -Two Chinamen, armed with great knives, cut 
these pieces in two, lengthwise, when they are carried in 
trays to the packing-tables. Here they are put into cans, 
one pound — over-weight — in each, and passed to Chinese 
boys, who carefully wipe the inside of the top edge with 
clean cotton cloths. 

Ninth. —The cans now receive their covers, which are 
rapped down and secured by means of a small wooden mal- 
let, and are taken to the solderers. When perfectly sealed, 
they are place 1 in the bath-rooms or tanks of boiling hot 
water, nine in number, each three and a half feet square, 
holding 720 cans. Here they remain for one hour and ten 
minutes, when they are removed to the stopping-bench, 
each can tested by tapping with a small wooden mallet, a 
hole punched in the top to allow the gases to escape, and 
then re-sealed. They are next run on a tramway-car into 
three retorts, each containing 2160 cans, where for an hour 
and a quarter they are subjected to a steam heat of 240°. 
From the retorts they go into the washing-tanks, and from 
thence to the lacquer-baths. These consist of ten large 
tanks filled with a solution of turpentine and copal varnish, 
into each of which a hundred cans at once are quickly 
immersed. 

The nineteenth operation consists in removing with one 
stroke of a brush the excess of the solution from the top of 
the cans. Now they are taken to the first tester, who by 
tapping the top of each can, with a steel nail, at once 
detects any defect in the sealing of the cans. This is one of 
the most important parts of the whole process of canning. 
Upon its thoroughness the reputation of the goods for gen- 
eral excellence depends. There are three separate tests 
made of eatfh can after leaving the stopping-bench, and it is 
rare to fintJa spoiled one of the Kinney brand. The second 
and third testers are white men, trained by years of experi- 



KINNEY'S QBE AT SALMON CANNERY. 



235 



ence to discover instantly by sound the slightest defect, its 
character and location. 

The cans are next labeled by young girls, with astonish- 
ing rapidity, each putting on about 4000 daily, when they 
are ready for the twenty-fourth and final operation — that of 
packing. 




From forty -five to fifty Chinamen are employed in manu- 
facturing the tin cans used by this firm, about 25,000 daily. 
They are very expert, rapid and accurate workmen. Squar- 
ing machines cut the tin into strips of the exact size re- 
quired; one clips the corners; a former, with one revolution, 
rounds it into shape; the bottoms are soldered, then floated, 



236 OREGON. 

finally rimmed, and sent below through a hopper, all ready 
for use, in a surprisingly short space of time. 

The whole process of salmon canning by this establish- 
ment is done in the most thorough and cleanly manner. No 
lish are used except fresh from the water, and experienced 
superintendents carefully watch every operation from begin- 
ning to end, securing the highest degree of perfection possi- 
ble in this most excellent article of food. 

FROM ASTORIA TO TILLAMOOK BAY. 

Soon after passing Fort Stevens we came in full 
view of the raging surf, breaking with a thundering 
roar, along a front of more than five miles. A storm was 
brewing, a fog obscured the buoys of the tortuous channel 
and though the Yaquina is an excellent sea-boat, and Capt. 
Denny a brave and experienced master, it was thought best 
to round-to and anchor under the lee of Sand Island for 
more favorable weather. 

The tardiness of the Government in providing every 
facility for the safe navigation of the Columbia is the cause 
of much complaint on the part of shipmasters, merchants 
and the traveling public. I was much suprised to find no 
signal station at so important a port of entry. The passen- 
ger transportation alone exceeds 3500 a month, and demands 
every possible safeguard. 

The storm abated during the night, and at 8 o'clock the 
following morning we rode safely over the Columbia bar into 
a comparatively smooth sea. 

Sailing southward, Oregon first presents some ten miles 
of low lands, occupied chiefly by dairymen. 

The Sea-side Hotel, a favorite summer resort of the 
Portlanders and Astorians, built by Ben. Holliday, is situa- 
ted here. 

Soon the Coast Mountains confront the ocean, rugged 
and thickly wooded, Tillamook head-light standing sentinel 
upon a huge rock, one mile and one-eighth from the shore. 

During a severe storm, about a year ago, the. workmen 
then engaged in erecting this light-house, heard loud cries of 
distress, and through the darkness could just discern the 



TILLAMOOK BAY. 237 

outlines of a ship clashing helplessly upon the rocks. In 
the morning the beach was strewn with the wreck and the 
dead bodies of the officers and crew, not a soul surviving to 
tell the story of that awful night. 

Next the mouth of the Nehalem, where excellent coal has 
recently been discovered, then a long stretch of magnificent 
beach, succeeded by a bold, rocky shore, to 

TILLAMOOK BAY, 45 miles from the mouth of the 
Columbia. This is a fine body of water, about 14 miles 
long and six miles wide, almost completely land-locked, full 
of salmon, bass, clams, crabs and other fish, its shores 
thickly timbered with spruce and fir, abounding with elk, 
deer and bear. 

John Hobson, who rode down the Columbia River in an 
Indian canoe 39 years ago, came with us to expend 
$40,000 here in the building of a salmon fishery and can- 
nery, greatly to the delight of the old settlers, who have 
been patiently waiting these 20 years for something to turn 
up for the benefit of beautiful Tillamook. 

There are about 25 American families and a small rem- 
nant of the Tillamook tribe of Indians living immediately 
upon the bay, and a large settlement occupying an extensive 
opening on the southeast side. They are engaged chiefly in 
dairying, lumbering and stock-raising. 

There is a considerable body of surveyed Government 
land lying to the north and east along the western slope of 
the Coast Range, which though much broken, will afford 
many desirable situations for those seeking homes in 
Oregon. 

We reached this pleasant harbor just in time to escape 
a severe southwester, which raged for forty hours, break- 
ing up rafts, logs and lumber, and threatening to drive us 
from our anchorage. The following day we ventured to sea 
again, encountering a strong head wind and heavy sea, both 
increasing in violence, until our little ship was barely able 
to stem the storm. 

"The glass is going up rapidly; it will blow a gale to- 
night," said Captain Moody, in a low tone, as he passed me 
on the forward deck. 



238 OREGON. 

All eyes were fixed upon a locomotive and tender com- 
plete, standing upon timbers across the hatchway, which 
though strongly lashed and blocked, began to surge alarm- 
ingly. 

"Look out!" shouted Captain Denny from his post 
by the wheel-house; "if she goes, you'll be crushed or 
knocked overboard " Stepping from my exposed position, 
just as a heavy sea sent the vessel reeling, and looking 
up, I saw that we were turning back. 

Certain passengers, unknown to me, had persuaded 
the Captain to attempt to recross the bar of Tillamook be- 
fore the tide should run too low, rather than risk the dan- 
gers of the ocean in such a storm, with such a cargo, and no 
accessible harbor for more than 500 miles ahead. 

Hoisting all sail, we fairly flew over the 12 miles it had 
taken us more than three hours and a half, under full steam, 
to advance, and through the skillful guidance of Captain 
Denny, dashed through the breakers, over the bar, to a safe 
anchorage again. 

The storm raged for over thirty hours, the severest 
ever known here at this season, said Mr. Meggason, who had 
lived at Cape Foulweather 27 years. 

Resuming our voyage, rapidly passing Oyster Bay and 
Cascade Head, sighting the light at Cape Foulweather at 
ten o'clock at night; then slacking speed for flood-tide, just 
at day-break we rode into one of the finest little harbors on 
the Pacific coast. 

YAQUINA. BA.Y, now attracting so much attention, as 
the ocean terminus of the Oregon and Pacific Railroad, is 
situated about five hundred miles north of San Francisco, 
and one hundred miles south of the mouth of the Columbia. 
It is about six miles long, with an average width of one mile 
and a half, its rugged, picturesque shores covered with fir, 
spruce and pine. A deep sea channel extends to Oneatta, 
there being twenty-five feet of water off the railroad wharf, 
one mile below, and six miles from the entrance. I noted 
carefully the soundings, as we crossed the bar, made 
by Mate John Jaques, an experienced and excellent leads- 



EXCURSIONS FROM PORTLAND. 239 

man, formerly employed in the Government Coast Survey in 
that capacity. The tide had been ebbing about fifty minutes, 
when the first throw was made, showing 23 feet, then 21, 20, 
17, 22, 24 feet, when Captain Denny, who was Master of the 
Government steamer employed in its survey, remarked, "We 
are over." The channel is narrow but straight, and the soft 
sand-stone formation of the short bar favorable to its per- 
manent removal by blasting. It can, without doubt, be 
deepened sufficiently to admit of the safe passage of deep 
draught ships in all ordinary weather. 

The Oregon and Pacific Railroad, reaching the great 
ocean highway at this point, begins at Boise City, crossing- 
Central Oregon via Baker City and Covvallis, through the 
heart of its richest valleys. 

Yaquina Bay, already much resorted to in summer, prom- 
ises to become the favorite sea-side watering-place of this 
region. The pretty little village of Newport is nestled cozily 
under the sheltering bluffs, on the northern side. 

The bay is alive with fish and fowl — rockbass, halibut, 
smelt, herring, flounders, salmon, sturgeon, clams, oysters, 
geese, ducks and other kinds. Large game is plentiful in 
the bordering forests — deer, elk, cougar, etc. 

There is a splendid bathing beach, delightful camping- 
grounds, an abundant supply of excellent water, and good 
hotel accommodations. 

The back lying country, for more than fifty miles, known 
as the "Burnt District," though generally rough and 
mouutainous, requiring considerable labor to clear and re- 
claim, is scarcely less productive than the richest bottoms, 
and well adapted for mixed farming and dairying. 

Veins of coal, said to be of good quality, have been dis- 
covered near the bay, and large bodies of fir, spruce and 
cedar timber grow on the SiletzandElk Rivers, the principal 
streams flowing into it. 

Trip No. 4, — From Portland up the Willamette River to Gor- 

vallis, the head of steamboat navigation. Bound Trip, 228 

utiles. 

The Willamette River, excepting the Columbia, is the 

principal stream west of the Cascade Range of mountains. 



240 OREGON. 

It is formed by the junction of the Mackenzie, middle and 
east forks, and the waters of over 40 tributary rivers and 
creeks, draining a water-shed of some 20,000 square miles. 
The Willamette Valley comprises such an important part of 
Oregon, that for a long time, and until a comparatively recent 
period, it has received almost exclusive mention abroad in 
connection with its agricultural resources, though some other 
sections are just as fertile and attractive. It contains more 
than half of the entire population of the State, about 50,000 
of whom occupy the cities and towns built on the banks of 
the Willamette. 

First — Portland, the chief city of the North Pacific 
Coast, situated on the west bank 12 miles from its confluence 
with the Columbia, contains a population of upwards of 
25, 000. It is the great center of trade, commerce and trans- 
portation for this whole region. Her steamships and vessels 
sail to the most distant seas — her railroads traverse nearly 
every portion of Oregon and Washington, and steamers 
ascend every navigable river. 

We started from the Ains worth Dock in that city at 6 a.m., 
on the O. E. & Co's steamer Occident, Capt. Bell, which 
makes regular trips throughout the year to Salem (70 miles) ; 
and during high stage of water, 114 miles to Corvallis, some- 
times going as far as Eugene City, 172 miles from Portland. 
There are 31 different landings on the river, 14 of which are 
towns and villages. The boat stops at about 20 of these 
landings, on an average, each way. 

OEEGON CITY, 12 miles from Portland, on the east bank, 
is the most interesting point. It contains a population of 
about 1200. Here the river falls some 40 feet, faced by high 
perpendicular walls of basaltic rock, the town being built 
on a narrow strip beneath, and upon the picturesque fir- 
covered slope above. Its magnificent water-power is im- 
proved by woollen, flour, paper and other mills. The falls 
are surmounted by means of five locks, each one raising the 
boat eight feet, the passage consuming about 40 minutes. 
When a short distance above, Mr. Chamberlain (the mate) 
says that there is nothing more worth seeing —that a thick 



OREGON CITY. 241 

growth of fir, cottonwood, willow, etc., along the banks, 
shuts off all distant views. Though this is comparatively 
true, the trip is far from being a monotonous one. 

For a considerable distance above there are frequent 
farm openings with numerous orchards, and occasionally a 
pleasant homelike place, surrounded by lawns, filled with 
flowers and ornamental trees; then islands, rivers, creeks, 
narrow channels, sandbars, old river beds, and various for- 
mations and timber growths — besides, the towns and their 
inhabitants engage the attention. Above Oregon City the 
river (which maintains an average width of about 200 yards^ 
is now confined within its banks, which are from eight to 
twenty-five feet in height, exhibiting uniformly a deep gray- 
ish alluvial loam, with a clayey subsoil. During the winter 
rise, the river is sometimes bank full; and since within 20 
years (1861 and 1881) has flooded the whole back lying 
country for a distance of from five to ten miles. 

At Butte ville (a little village 29 miles up on the east bank) 
an old lady gets aboard, who says she once embarked in a 
small boat from the doorstep of the church — now full 15 feet 
above the present water level. Capt. Bell (who has run on 
the river for about 15 years) told me that its channel is con- 
stantly changing, and pointed out old river-beds now high 
and dry, covered with a thick growth of cottonwood, over 
which he had sailed scores of times in former years. But 
by the judicious expenditure of the appropriation made for 
its improvement — from $12,000 to $20,000 annually in re- 
moving snags and dredging sandbars — its navigation is made 
comparatively easy and safe. Opposite Champoeg (a vil- 
lage of some 25 houses on the east side) the Bald Hills are 
first visible. They are not extensive, but their bare, brown 
slopes form a striking contrast with the luxuriant vegetation 
which covers most of this region. 

Forty miles up, we passed the mouth of the Yamhill — a 
small sluggish stream, navigable for 19 miles to McMinville. 
At Feaster's Rock the first bad sandbar was reached, but as 
the Occident only drew about 18 inches of water, it is 
crossed without difficulty. The Captain said the worst ob- 
structions are snags near Salem, and sandbars at the mouth 



242 OREGON. 

of the Luckiamute. Two landings more at Wheatland and 
Lincoln, small villages on the west bank, and we reached 

SALEM, the capital. It is pleasantly situated on the right 
bank of the Willamette, 72 miles from Portland by river, and 
52 by rail. It contains a population of about 3000, and is an 
important manufacturing point. The Santiam River here 
affords a great water-power, which is being utilized by ex- 
tensive woollen and flour mills, already in operation or in 
course of erection. Independence, ten miles above on the 
west bank, is a nourishing town of some 500 inhabitants. 
At Buena Vista, ten miles further, the Occident lay over 
until morning, the upper river being too low for safe nav- 
igation at night. The most extensive pottery works north 
of San Francisco are situated here, manufacturing about 30 
tons of ware weekly — comprising jars, jugs, flower-pots, 
water-pipes, etc. Considerable attention is being paid to 
hop culture on the opposite bank. One field of 12 acres 
produced $3500 worth last year. 

Resuming our journey, a run of two hours brought us to 

ALBANY, 103 miles from Portland. This city is finely sit- 
uated on the east bank of the river, in the center of a very 
rich wheat-growing district, and contains a population of 
about 3000. The Santiam River also supplies Albany with 
almost unlimited water-power, already utilized by large flour 
and other mills. At 8 a.m., we arrived at Corvallis, the head 
of navigation, except for very light-draught boats during 
high water — 114 miles from Portland. It is pleasantly lo- 
cated on the west bank of the river, and has a population of 
about 1200. The Agricultural College is situated here. The 
Oregon and Pacific Railroad is now in course of construc- 
tion from this point to Yaquina Bay, its ocean terminus. 

Within an hour the boat had finished discharging and 
receiving freight, and was on her return to Portland. 
Reaching Salem at an early hour and lying up over night, 
afforded an opportunity to visit the public buildings, flour 
mills, etc. The State Capitol is a large, plain structure in a 
half-finished state, built for convenience, without much 
regard for architectural beauty. The County Court-house is 



COLUMBIA RIVER SCENERY. 243 

a much finer building. At the Salem flouring mill (the 
largest in the State) I saw ten ran of stone grinding at the 
rate of 500 barrels of flour daily. They ship directly from 
Portland to Liverpool — and run day and night to supply the 
demand. 

At Fairfield, 15 miles below on the east bank, the boat 
received 3000 bushels of wheat for the Oregon City mills. 
During a stoppage of two hours for its delivery, I visited 
the Imperial flouring mill, the largest here, having eight 
run of stone, and manufacturing about 500 barrels every 24 
hours; and also the Oregon City woollen mills, the most ex- 
tensive north of California. They operate 11 set of looms, 
employing 215 men and women — manufacturing blankets, 
flannels, reversible cloths, cassimeres, buggy-robes, shawls, 
etc., in great variety and of superior excellence. 

This brief description is only suggestive of the objects 
of interest to the observing traveler on the Willamette. The 
physical features of a country, its resources, and the state, 
and means of their development, are subjects of absorbing 
interest; but the study of the peculiar characteristics and 
habits of the people occupying it, and met in passing 
through it, is hardly less so. 

Trip No. 4. — Up the Columbia River and through the Walla 
Walla, Touchet and Snake River Valleys to Texas Ferry ; 
and from Wallula Junction to Pend-de-Or exile Lake, Idaho. 
Round trip, 1120 miles. 

There is probably no journey of equal distance upon this 
continent, so remarkable in contrasts and wonderful physical 
features, as that from Portland to the Snake River, Idaho. 
It presents in their most striking forms, the infinite expres- 
sions which the face of nature, like the human countenance, 
assumes. To the old military station at Vancouver, and for 
miles above, the broad, deep river sweeps silently and 
grandly through the green forests and meadows, affording 
varied and impressive views, but only by the volume of the 
waters, and by the mountains from, and through which they 
come, suggesting the untold grandeur of the scenes beyond. 
Then the river grows more rapid, its banks are higher, and 



244 OREGON. 

often rocky and precipitous, and the rugged sides of the Cas- 
cade Range, rising higher and higher, approach nearer and 
nearer on either side, as if they would close up again the 
rock-bound passage they have been forced to yield. Vast 
ledges and columns of bare basaltic rock, detached by some 
mighty force, now rise hundreds of feet, with perpendicular 
walls above us. This is only the beginning of the grandeur 
of these most sublime exhibitions of nature. Approaching 
the Lower Cascades, mountains, forests, rivers and water- 
falls unite their wonders for a crowning display. Mountain 
walls of adamantine rock, roasted, seamed and blackened by 
volcanic fires, narrow the now turbulent river. Surmount- 
ing these, far above, upon successive terraces, by the hun- 
dred and the thousand feet, up to the very summits, 5,000 
feet, rise hugh basaltic castles, cathedrals, domes and 
towers, which dwarf to comparative insignificance, all of the 
creations or conceptions of man. From a single point are 
seen four water-falls, dashing down the mountain side, leap- 
ing from cliff to cliff, from one hundred to seven hundred 
feet at a bound. Down the six miles of rapids between the 
Upper and Lower Cascades, the pent-up river rushes, roar- 
ing and foaming among the rocks. For sixty miles, this 
matchless panorama of God's wonder-land rivets the gaze, 
and humbles the soul of the spectator. Beyond the divide, 
greater diversity of scene brings welcome relief to the strain- 
ing eyes. Here the mountains sometimes recede, and the 
forests give way to pleasant, grassy slopes; again they are 
torn open by impetuous mountain streams, and we catch 
glimpses of the deep, dark gorges, cut out by their headlong 
descent. At the mouth of Hood River, on the right, and 
Klickitat on the left, green valleys present their smiling 
faces, and the homes of the pioneers are seen on the 
hill-sides. At the mouth of the Salmon River, an immense 
scow was loading with 250 cords of wood, shot on to her 
from the mountain side six miles distant, through a water- 
chute, with the velocity of an arrow. 

We were on the steamer Harvest Queen, and here ex- 
changed salutes with the passengers of the Mountain Queen, 
on her downward trip to the Cascades Nearing The Dalles, 



THE DALLES. 245 

the river flows with swifter current, between perpendicular 
walls, harder than granite, thrice higher than ever built by 
man, and overtopped here and there with storm-scarred for- 
tresses and battlements fit for the battles of the gods. The 
pine-clad summits of the mountains still rise far above in 
the background on the right; but on the left, our eyes greet 
the first broad expanse of smooth, green, rolling hills, 
fringed with fir and spruce. A. solitary horseman suddenly 
appeared upon the edge of an overhanging bluff five hun- 
dred feet or more above us, and halting his fine steed, sur- 
veyed us with the air of a military chieftain. 

One hundred and ten miles from Portland, we reached 

THE DALLES, the most important city of Eastern 
Oregon, containing a population of 2300. It is picturesquely 
situated —the business portion under the high, precipitous 
river bluffs, the residences occupying the eastward-sloping 
foot-hills of the Cascade Bange, hundreds of feet above. 
An extensive scope of rich agricultural and grazing country 
lies to the southeastward. Here we took leave of the moun- 
tains and the forests, and enter the ' ' Great Plains of the 
Columbia, " and of Washington Territory. 



WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 



WASHINGTON— which, prior to the purchase of Alaska, 
was the extreme northwestern territory of the United States 
— extends from the British possessions on the north, about 
200 miles to the Columbia River on the south; and 
from Idaho on the east, about 350 miles west to the Pacific 
Ocean. It embraces, including the waters of Puget Sound, 
an area of 69,994 square miles, or 35,000,000 acres. Ex- 
clusive of water surface and mountains unfit for use or occu- 
pation, there are probably upwards of 20,000,000 acres of 
forest, 10,000,000 of plains and prairies, and 5,000,000 acres 
of bottom lands. 

Down to 1840, Washington was an unknown wilderness, 
except to the native tribes and a few daring explorers. 
About this time, missionaries and the Hudson Bay Company 
established the first settlement of white men. In 1853, a 
Territorial Government was organized. The census of 1860 
showed a population of 11,505; of 1870, 23,905; and of 
1880, 75,000. 

The comparative slowness of its progress for many years 
was mainly due to its isolation, and the character of its re- 
sources, which in the most accessible portions west of the 
mountains required considerable capital for their develop- 
ment and utilization. The increasing demand for building 
material and fuel by the rapidly augmenting population of 
the Southern Pacific Coast, and other timberless regions, is 
now opening for their use the resources of her vast forests 
and fields of coal. 

MOUNTAINS. 

The Cascade Mountains extend across Washington in a 
northwesterly direction, at a distance of about 125 miles 
from the Pacific, with an elevation ranging from 3000 to 
13,000 feet above the sea; they create two divisions, the op- 
posite in climate, soil and natural productions. The Coast 



PHYSICAL FEATURES OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 247 

Mountains cover the extreme western and northwestern por- 
tion — the Olympic Range rising over 8000 feet, embracing 
the country north of the fifth standard of parallel, surrounded 
by the ocean, the Straits of Juan de Fuca and Hood's 
Canal. They are generally covered with forests of fir, 
spruce, cedar and pine, but comprise many lightly timbered 
openings and rich valley bottoms. 

RIVERS. 

The Columbia River, rising in the Rocky Mountains, 
flows through the northeastern portion of the Territory, and 
forms its southern boundary from near the mouth of Snake 
River to the ocean. The elevated plains through which i^ 
courses east of the mountains are known as "The Great 
Plains " of the Columbia and of the Spokane Rivers. West 
of the Cascade Range it gives its name to the Great Basin 
extending from the Calapooia Mountains of Oregon, on the 
south, more than 300 miles north, to Puget Sound. Its 
principal Washington tributaries are the Spokane, Okana- 
gan, Methou, Chelan, Enteatwa, Wenatchee, Snake, Walla 
Walla, Yakima, Klickitat, Washougal, Cath-la-pootle, Lewis 
and Cowlitz Rivers. The Lumni, Swiuamish, Skagit, 
Steilaguamish, Snohomish, Duwamish, Black, Puyallup, Nis- 
qually, Des Chutes and Skokomish Rivers empty into the 
waters of Puget Sound; and the Salmon, Dungeness, Elwha, 
Lyre, Psyche and Hoko, rising in the Olympic Mountains, 
flow into the Straits of Fuca. The ocean slope of the Coast 
Range is drained by the Hosett, Quillehute, Charlat, Queets, 
Shaklett, Quinault, Chehalis, Willopah, Silver, Bear and 
other rivers. 

LAKES. 

Washington, Whatcom, Quinault, Kachelus, Kahchess, 
Lleealum and Coville, are the largest lakes in the Territory. 

BAYS AND HARBORS ON THE PACIFIC. 

Washington has a coast line of 245 miles; Shoal water 
Bay and Gray's Harbor are accessible (except in stormy 
weather) for vessels drawing 12 feet of water. They abound 
with shell-fish, codfish, sturgeon, and innumerable water- 
fowl. 



248 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

VALLEYS. 

The Walla Walla, Snake, Palouse and Yakima, of East- 
ern Washington; and the Cowlitz, Chehalis, Skagit, Puyal- 
lup and Chimacum, of Western, are the principal valleys. 

THE GEOLOGICAL F0KMATI0N 

Which characterizes Oregon prevails in Washington. A 
fine, light, volcanic ash, intermixed with sand, gravel and 
decomposed basalt rock— the latter protruding above the 
surface in many places, especially along the water-courses; 
dry, elevated, rolling, timberless plains, covered with bunch- 
grass and sage-brush, are its prominent features east of the 
mountains. The surface deposits and formations of Western 
Washington are less uniform. A light, moist, gravelly (and 
often rocky) soil, mixed with decomposed vegetable matter, 
prevails on the uplands. Along the river bottoms a deep, 
wet, dark, rich alluvial and peat soil is most common, 
with forests almost everywhere. Extensive coal and iron 
fields surround Puget Sound; gold is also found in paying 
quantities. 

THE ZOOLOGY AND ORNITHOLOGY 

Of Washington corresponds with that of Oregon. It is 
one of the best fields for sportsmen in the world. Its 
growth of trees, shrubs, plants and grasses also closely re- 
sembles that of Oregon. 

CLIMATE. 

No two sections of country lying so near together, pre- 
sent greater contrasts of climate than Eastern and Western 
Washington. The former is dry, clear and windy; free from 
all malaria, hot at mid-day, cool at night, with frequent 
summer frosts; the winters short, but sometimes severe; 
snows generally light, but occasionally covering the grasses 
until stock suffers. The rainfall ranges from 8 to 20 inches; 
the summer temperature from 30° to 100° above, the winter 
from 60° above to 20° below zero. 

The climate of Western Washington is moist and cloudy; 
uniformly cool, seldom hot; some malaria in the bottoms, 
though generally very healthy; cool at night, sometimes 



PHYSICAL FEATURES OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 249 

frosty; winters usually mild with but little snow, which soon 
melts. The rainfall varies from 50 to 130 inches; the sum- 
mer temperature from 40° to 90° above; the winter from 50° 
above to 15° below. 

PEODUCTS AND INDUSTRIES. 

Stock and wheat raising are the great natural pursuits of 
Eastern Washington. Millions of acres afford the choicest 
bunch-grass grazing in the world ; an immense area produces 
most bountiful crops of wheat of unsurpassed excellence. 
The butter made in the upper Columbia country is of supe- 
rior quality. A variety of fruits flourish in the Walla Walla 
and Touchet valleys; corn does well in a few localities. 
There are magnificent water-powers, especially at Spokane 
Falls, which is destined to become the great manufacturing 
centre of this region. West of the mountains, lumber, coal, 
iron, fish and lime, are the great natural productions. There 
are also extensive bodies of land adapted to agriculture and 
grazing; farming, dairying and sheep raising are already im- 
portant pursuits. All kinds of hardy fruits and vegetables 
grow in abundance. The nights are too cool for corn, 
peaches, tomatoes and melons, except in a few exceptionally 
warm and sheltered situations. Large crops of wheat, oats, 
barley and hay are raised, and hops of superior quality on 
the bottom lands. 

TRIP FROM PORTLAND THROUGH THE GREAT COLUMBIA PLAINS AND 
WALLA WALLA COUNTRY, CONTINUED. 

From The Dalles, the railroad runs along the left or 
south bank of the river for a considerable distance, which 
with a mighty and impetuous flow cuts its way through the 
solid basaltic rock. A few Indians crawl out of their miser- 
able huts and hovels, and look at the passing train. Now a 
range of sand hills extends for many miles. It drifts like 
snow before the strong winds which sweep up the river from 
the ocean, sometimes covering and obstructing the track for 
hours. 

At Wallula Junction, 126 miles from The Dalles, the Co- 
lumbia turns northward, the O. R. &N. Co's line continuing 
its eastward course up the valley of the Walla Walla 30 miles 



250 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

to Walla Walla; and from thence, running northeastward 
across the Touehet and Tucannon valleys 56 miles to Texas 
Ferry on the south bank of the Snake River, 78 miles from 
Lewiston, Idaho. The rocks and sand hills are gradually 
succeeded by sage-brush and bunch-grass, the latter gaining 
ground as we advance. 

WALLA. WALLA is a flourishing city of some 4000 in- 
habitants, occupying a central situation in the Walla Walla 
Valley, about 900 feet above the sea. It is surrounded by a 
very extensive body of the richest wheat, grazing and fruit 
lands. The yield of grain here is large, averaging about 20 
bushels per acre, and the quality unsurpassed. The Walla 
Walla is a warm valley, growing fine peaches, melons and 
grapes in abundance. Stock ranges at large throughout the 
year, subsisting entirely upon the native grasses. About 
every sixth winter, on an average, it sustains severe losses from 
cold and starvation. 

Between Walla Walla and Snake River lies an immense 
area, excellently adapted either to farming, stock-raising, or 
dairying. The general surface of the country is inviting — 
consisting of elevated plains, high rolling hills, and pleasant 
valleys. The climate is one of the most desirable in the 
Union — comparatively mild, pleasant and healthful. It is 
watered by the Snake River and its tributaries, the Walla 
Walla, Touehet, Pataha, Tucannon, Alpowa, Asottin, and 
other streams. The principal towns and settlements are 
situated upon their banks; Day ton the most important place, 
with upwards of 1500 inhabitants, upon the Touehet; Grange 
City and Marengo on the Tucannon; Pomeroy and Pataha 
City on the Pataha. The O. R. & N. Co's lines of transpor- 
tation, by rail and river, will soon traverse this whole region. 
They are now operated to Lewiston, Idaho — 134 miles from 
Walla Walla, 56 miles by rail to Texas Ferry, and from 
thence by steamer up the Snake River 78 miles. A branch 
also runs from Bolles Junction (14 miles) to Dayton. 



THE GREAT PLAINS OF TEE COLUMBIA. 251 

FROM WALLULA JUNCTION, W. T. , PEND D'ORIELLE, LAKE IDAHO, 
OVER THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD. 

Returning to Wallula Junction, I resumed my journey 
over the great Columbia and Spokane Plains. Here I made 
connection with the Northern Pacific, bound for Lake 
Pend d'Oreille, 233 miles northeast. Twelve miles out the 
train was ferried over the Snake River to Ainsworth, situated 
on the right bank, near its mouth. A force of men were 
unloading from scows great blocks of granite for the abut- 
ments and piers of the railroad bridge soon to span the 
river here. 

This is a sandy, sage-brush, wind-swept section, lying 
directly in the pathway of the strong ocean winds which 
rush up the Columbia, cooling and moistening the dry, 
heated atmosphere of the interior. But even here, upon 
these, to all appearances, the most unpromising of lands, 
the crops of grain, potatoes, etc., growing upon the experi- 
mental farms recently opened, show that they are quite pro- 
ductive when sufficiently moistened. 

The rainfall is less than at any other point east of the 
mountains, but by thorough cultivation these fine soils 
absorb moisture from the atmosphere to a surprising de- 
gree. This description applies especially to the country 
immediately bordering the Lower Snake and Middle Colum- 
bia Rivers. 

For more than 60 miles beyond Ainsworth the road runs 
through broken, rocky, sage-brush lands. 

Railroads following the cheapest routes and grades, fre- 
quently traverse the most desolate portions of tbe country. 
The subsidence of the waters which once prevailed over 
this region, left a comparative desert along the principal 
water-courses. 

From five to eight miles back from these river-beds the 
country generally improves in a marked degree, the soil in- 
creasing in depth and richness, and a thick growth of bunch 
grass, affording excellent pasturage. It is, therefore, a very 
poor place to hunt land from a railroad train, and yet thou- 
sands do this. A young man sat next to me who had come 



252 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

all the way from Iowa in search of a home. Arriving at 
Portland, and proceeding directly up the Columbia, thus 
far he had seen nothing but grand rivers, forests and moun- 
tains and magnificent scenery, then deserts and sage-brush 
plaius, all most satisfactory to the tourist, but utterly failing 
to meet his expectations and views of a place good enough 
to settle down upon and live from. Arriving at Sprague, 
where the trains pass, though he had purchased a ticket as 
far as Cheney, he gathered up his baggage, said he had seen 
enough, and hurried aboard of the returning car. He 
doubtless returned to Iowa, and told his neighbors what he 
knew about Eastern Washington, which, of course, was next 
to nothing at all. 

The country grows more inviting as we advance, the 
sage-brush disappearing, the rich, green, nutritious bunch 
grass covering all the plains and hill-sides, and the black, 
unsightly croppings of basaltic rock becoming less fre- 
quent. 

Nearing Ritzville ranches, houses, cattle and horses are 
seen in the distance. 

About 15 miles beyond, we reach Lake Colville, and, 
skirting its western shores for several miles, suddenly pass 
from the solitude of vast treeless and almost uninhabited 
plains, into the bustling, thriving town of 

SPRAGUE. — The suddenness with which towns spring- 
up, and rapidly grow to importance, is one of the wonders 
of this railway age. 

A great scope of good farming as well as grazing land sur- 
rounds the place. It is well watered, and supplied with 
sufficient wood for fuel and fencing, conveniently near. 

A short distance from Sprague our eyes were gladdened 
by the sight of scattering pine and hemlock. We all love 
the companionship and cheering presence and the protection 
of the trees. We find the pioneers clinging close to the na- 
tive groves and forests, and when compelled to go out upon 
the lonely plains, they plant and grow them around their 
homes as soon as possible. 

In 1870 I saw hundreds of cabins on the great prairies of 



SPOKANE FALLS. 253 

Western Minnesota without a stick of live wood larger than 
a riding-whip within a day's journey. Revisiting the same 
section, after the lapse of nine years, I found almost every 
farm house in a pleasant grove, affording not only grateful 
shade and shelter, but often sufficient fuel for household 
use. Such reuslts may, without doubt, be realized upon the 
treeless plains of the upper Columbia. 
Twenty-five miles further brings us to 

CHENEY. It is a thriving, promising place, very pleas- 
antly situated among the pines, the county seat of Spokane 
County, site of the Cheney Academy, and headquarters for 
the railroad land department of this region. 

MINERAL LAKE, reputed to possess extraordinary 
healing virtues, is situated about seven miles distant. 

There are extensive bodies of rich farming lauds within 
a radius of 30 miles, and unlimited tracts beyond. Hun- 
dreds are finding homes here, and there is room for thou- 
sands more. 

Now we ride 16 miles, through level, piue, gravelly open- 
ings, to 

SPOKANE FALLS, the most important town in this 
region. It possesses a magnificent water power, situated in 
the heart of a country so great in extent and resources that 
its utilization may be regarded as certain. Agriculture, 
stock raising and manufacturing combined will build up a 
large city here. 

Leaving Spokane, the timber increases in density and 
area, becoming a thick forest where we cross tbe line into 
Idaho, 179 miles from Wallula Junction. 

NORTHERN IDAHO embraces that portion of the 
territory lying north of the Clearwater River, bounded by 
Montana, the British Possessions and Washington. While 
mountains, forests and lakes cover most of its surface, there 
are extensive bodies of land lying along the western slope of 
the Bitter Root Range, comprising the eastern portions of 
the Palouse and Spokane prairies, capable of supporting a 
large population by farming and stock-raising. 



254 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

The Potlach, Genessee, Paradise and other rich and 
well watered valleys also cuntain hundreds of thousands of 
acres open to settlement under the United States Land 
Laws. 

Forests of pine, cedar and tamrack now prevail to Lake 
Pend d'Oreille. 

This lake is about 75 miles in length, with an average 
width of two and one-half miles, and from 25 to 80 feet in 
depth, and full of bass, trout and other fish. 

Its shores are thickly wooded with yellow and white pine, 
cedar, spruce and tamrack, and abound with black bear, deer 
and mosquitoes. 

Teip No. 5. — From Portland, Oregon, to the head of naviga- 
tion on the Cowlitz River, Washington Territory, 20 miles 
higher up than any steamer ever ran before, with Captain 
Joseph Kellogg. Bound trip, 230 miles. 

The Cowlitz River is one of the most important streams 
in Washington Territory, west of the Cascade Range. It 
rises in the western slope of these mountains, and flowing 
southerly, empties into the Columbia River, 50 miles from 
its mouth, eight miles below Kalama, and 50 miles from 
Portland. 

It is navigable throughout most of the year to Toledo, 45 
miles from its confluence with the Columbia, and at high 
stages of water 20 miles above. 

The valley of the Cowlitz is about 60 miles in length, 
varying in width from two to ten miles. 

It is the oldest settled in the territory, having been occu- 
pied by the trading posts of the Hudson Bay Company more 
than 40 years ago. 

It is traversed by the Northern Pacific Railroad as far as 
Olequa, 28 miles from Kalama, by rail, where the Cowlitz 
turns eastward toward the mountains. 

A line of steamers, comprising the Joseph Kellogg and 
Toledo, make regular trips between Portland and Toledo, call- 
ing at all way points. They are owned by Captain Joseph 
Kellogg & Sons and brother Jason Kellogg, who have navi- 



THE ASCENT OE THE COWLITZ. 255 

gated the waters of Oregon and Washington since 1848, and 
whose popularity is as great as their experience. 

The Toledo, under command of Captain Smith, started 
from Portland at six o'clock in the morning. 

The rivers of Oregon and Washington were all " boom- 
ing." The Columbia and its tributaries, draining a water- 
shed area of over 275,000 square miles, were overflowing 
with the waters of a thousand streams, gathering the melting 
snows from the loftiest summits of the Coast, Cascade, Blue 
and Rocky Mountains — from California to the British Posses- 
sions, and from the Pacific Ocean to Montana. 

The Willamette, swelled by its own tributaries, and 
backed up by the Columbia, was flooding the front streets of 
Portland, twenty-five feet and seven-tenths above low water 
mark, and within two feet six inches of the highest point 
ever reached June 24th, 1876 — and was still rising. 

The Kellogg steamers are exceedingly accommodating. 
They stop whenever and wherever anybody desires to get 
on or off. First a lady was lifted aboard from a little skiff 
which came out into the middle of the stream to intercept 
us; a little further on, a man, horse and dogs were taken 
from the left bank; then two yoke of oxen were landed 
near a farm house on the right, and soon after we ran right 
into an orchard, and picked fine cherries from the limbs 
overhanging the upper deck of the steamer. 

The pleasant village of St. Helena, 33 miles from Port- 
land, on the left bank of the Columbia, was the first settle- 
ment reached. 

The front street was flooded, but most of the town lay 
high and dry. 

Next, Columbia City, two miles below, which was partly 
under water; then Kalama, or "Calamity," as a fellow- 
passenger suggested, which was in a pitiable condition, be- 
ing almost wholly submerged. A sail-boat was coursing 
through the streets, skiffs were tied up at the porch of the 
Fulton House; the salmon cannery was drowned out, and all 
business suspended. 

Touching a moment at Ranier, 45 miles from Portland, we 
entered the mouth of the Cowlitz, which flows into the Co- 



256 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

lumbia opposite. It was swelled to unusual proportions, 
covering the lower valley from foothill to foothill, in some 
places three or four miles broad, sweeping over the rich 
bottoms, destroying the crops, and doing serious damage to 
some of the farms. 

Monticello, two miles up on the left, a small clusler of 
decaying buildings, the remains of an old Indian village, a 
few good farm houses, and extensive hop-yards, stood in 
several feet of water. 

FREEPORT, a mile and a half above, is the most im- 
portant place on the river. 

The Cowlitz bottom lands are exceedingly rich and 
productive. 

The river narrows above Freeport to an average width of 
about 150 yards. The banks are higher, and thickly wooded 
with fir, cedar, alder, cottonwood and maple. 

There are frequent openings and farm clearings. The 
soil is a fine rich alluvial loam, with a clayey subsoil. 

Passing Castle Rock, Carroll's Point, Arkansas and 
Cheholt Landings, the mouth of the Tootle River, Olequa 
and Cowlitz Landing — the site of an old Hudson Bay trad- 
ing station — about 6 o'clock we arrived at 

TOLEDO. This is the historic ground of Washington 
Territory — the field of the first operations in trade, agricul- 
ture and navigation. 

The Cowlitz River has been the principal thorough- 
fare of travel to and from Puget Sound from the earliest 
times; but above Freeport, until the running of the Kel- 
logg steamer Toledo, by Capt. Smith, the entire river traf- 
fic, the carrying of mail and passengers, the transportation 
of supplies and shipment of furs, etc., was done exclusively 
by Indian canoes and batteaux. 

A walk of about two miles brought me to Cowlitz Prairie, 
one of the pleasantest, most homelike spots I have visited 
in the Territory. It is about five miles long and from one 
to two miles wide, enclosed by a forest of fir. This valley 
was occupied and farmed by the Hudson Bay Company over 
40 years ago. Some of its old servants are still living there. 



COWLITZ PRAIRIE. 257 

I was fortunate in meeting several of these pioneer settlers — 
first, Mr. H. H. Pinto, 72 years of age, a native of New 
Haven, Connecticut, a sailor on 40 voyages, 20 years a res- 
ident of New Orleans, coming here 30 years ago — himself 
and wife traveling most of the way across the plains and over 
the mountains on foot. He said that during 15 years' trade 
with the Indians, though selling considerable on credit, his 
losses in bad debts did not exceed $30. The spirit of this 
aged couple may be inferred from a remark by Mrs. Pinto : 
" I wish," she said, "I was only a few years younger, and I 
would go to Alaska!" " Yes, my wife's got the gold fever," 
replied her husband. Then he proceeded to tell me of the 
recent discoveries of rich mines on the upper Cowlitz, with 
all the enthusiasm of a youth of 20 years. 

The place opposite Mr. Pinto's has been farmed for the 
past 40 years by Mr. Plomondon, a servant of the Hudson 
Bay Company, w T ho died here last year, at the advanced age 
of 99 years 9 months and 6 days. 

There is room on the Klickitat and Grand Prairie, and 
other lightly-wooded vine-maple lands lying within 30 miles, 
for at least 1000 families. The climate is very healthy, water 
excellent, and crops certain and abundant. 

Returning to Toledo, the steamer proceeded on her tor- 
tuous course. While the first ascent of the upper Cowlitz 
was not quite so important an event as the discovery and 
exploration of the Mississippi, yet it was sufficiently so to 
excite great interest in the undertaking among all the settlers 
hereabouts. Adequate and cheap facilities of transportation 
is the first great necessity for the prosperous occupation of 
n country. In winter the roads of Western Washington are 
generally too soft for the profitable movement of field pro- 
duce, except for short distances, and there is not much en- 
couragement for opening a farm and raising big crops, to 
see the fruits of all your hard labor rot upon the ground 
where it is harvested. 

We were soon joined in the wheel-house by an old Indian 
known as George, one of the few survivors of the once nu- 
merous Cowlitz tribe. He must have been over 65 years of age, 
but was as enthusiastic as a child, pointing out. with glis- 



258 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

tening eyes and rapid articulation and gesture, the site of a 
once populous village of his people, and landmarks familiar 
to him for half a century. It was most fitting that one of 
the oldest survivors of the canoe period of the navigation of 
the Cowlitz, should be present to witness its first ascent by 
steam. 

The river still maintains an average width of 200 yards, 
a dense forest of fir, cedar, spruce, Cottonwood, alder and 
maple, extending to the water's edge, excepting when an 
occasional settler has cut his way in. The banks are from 
five to twenty-five feet in height, their exposed faces exhib- 
iting a sandy alluvial loam, underlaid with clay and sand- 
stone. In some places, croppings of coal were seen in the 
lower stratas, where the river cut through the hills. A short 
distance above Layton's Landing, the river divides into four 
or five streams, but Capt. Smith took us through the best 
channel, some 40 feet wide, without any apparent difficulty. 
Now there are rapids, with a current of ten miles an hour, 
great piles of drift logs, carried down from the mountains 
by the winter floods, sometimes projecting their great lengths 
half way across the channel, and sandbars and rocks, but no 
serious obstructions. 

By the gauge at Toledo, the river was three feet nine 
inches above low-water mark, and our soundings showed 
about four feet in the shallowest spot found thus far. Be- 
ginning at Layton's, our progress was the occasion of great 
rejoicing among all the people living upon and near the banks. 
Men, women and children came rushing out to see us, cheer- 
ing lustily, and swinging their fiats, bonnets and handker- 
chiefs, as though our appearance was the greatest boon of 
their lives. Taylor and Bill Parker made the woods ring 
with their shouts; and when old Hinckley — standing waiting 
for us at the base of Hinckley's Bluff — broke out into a 
thundering roar: " 'Rah for Garfield!" and the steam whis- 
tles chimed in, the old forests of the Cowlitz, I venture to 
say, never echoed a war-whoop half so loud and thrilling. 
Scott on the left bank, and Hackett on the right, soon 
joined the chorus of shouts, which reached a climax when 
Pioneer Bennett ran out of his cabin, with rifle in hand, and 



THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE UPPER COWLITZ. 259 

fired round after round; while his wife enthusiastically waved 
the stars and stripes over his head. 

The boat landed amidst the loud noise of guns, cheering 
and steam whistles; and when steward Parsley broke open 
his Fourth of July stores and let loose his fireworks, the 
scene will always be remembered as one of the happiest 
demonstrations of loyalty to country, and gratitude for ap- 
proaching deliverance from the severest hardships of pioneer- 
ing, I ever witnessed . Comparatively few people ever stop 
to consider how much we owe to those who so bravely go 
before and prepare the way for the march of civilization. 
Mr. Bennett and his two daughters packed in their last win- 
ter s supplies upon their backs, including 900 pounds of flour. 

These people are makiug the most of the situation, 
many of whom are surrounded by fields of grain, young 
orchards, excellent pastures and gardens. The fine pota- 
toes, beets, peas, onions, beans, etc., grown by Mr. Hack- 
ett, were especially noticeable. 

A short distance beyond Bennett's, the river broadened 
and shallowed to less than four feet, and Capt. Smith called 
everybody forward to keep the bow of the boat down. 
Judge Strong is a man of great proportions, outweighing 
physically as well as mentally, a whole squad of ordinary 
men. Just as the boat reached the most critical point, the 
dinner-bell rang, and the Judge, whose giant form towered 
alongside the jackstaff, looked up with such an appealing 
look toward the wheel house, that Capt. Smith at once ex- 
claimed: "Not yet -hold on, hold on!" and the distin- 
guished jurist was detained in one of the most important of 
the many honorable positions he has occupied — until Ave 
were safely over the bar. His self-sacrifice on that occasion 
could only be appreciated by the patrons of steward Pars- 
ley's excellent dinners. 

The river, its banks and the bordering forest, grew more 
and more interesting as we advanced. The rapids were more 
frequent and stronger, in several places boiling over rocky 
beds at the rate of 12 miles an hour; limestone bluffs arose 
perpendicularly from 50 to 175 feet above the water; and 
giant firs and cedars stretched their handsome green tops 



260 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

300 feet above us. By common consent, names were given 
to a few of these prominent landmarks. Hinckley's Bluff 
lias already been mentioned, the next highest on the left 
bank was called Sandrock Bluff; a moss-covered projecting 
ledge of basaltic formation, just below, will probably be 
known as Moss Rock; then comes Berry's Bluff, on the 
right; and lastly, "High Bluff" — rising highest, and ex- 
tending farthest of all, also on the right bank. Opposite 
Berry's Bluff, there is one of the finest bodies of fir aud 
cedar timber in Western Washington. Many of the latter 
trees are from 10 to 13 feet in diameter, and proportionately 
tall. It comprises some six or seven sections of Government 
land, all still vacant. 

Up to 10:40 p.m. the progress of the Toledo was unin- 
terrupted, except by taking aboard the settlers who wished 
to go with us; and we had reached a point within a few miles 
from Klickitat bridge, where the rapids are reported impas- 
sable. Here an extensive log-jam chokes up a former chan- 
nel, and obstructs the present just where the current is 
strongest, not less than 12 miles an hour, and where a sand- 
bar crowds the navigation close upon the side of danger. 
The ugly jam and the strong rapids and the sand-bar, 
altogether, were a little too much for even the skill of 
Captain Smith, and in spite of every effort, the To- 
ledo went crashing and sweeping down broadside against 
the jam. A great heartless monster of the forest, projecting 
over the deck, crushed in the sides of the house; another 
rakes clown the guards on the port side, and wedged the boat 
so firmly that both the engines and the capstan, with strong 
hawsers made fast to the shore, were powerless to move it. 
But the officers and crew were equal to every emergency- 
Powerful and experienced ax-men cut in two, one after an- 
other, the great logs, until the boat was nearly liberated, 
when the order, "Go ahead," is heard, and under full 
steam, by the aid of bowlines, windless and levers, at 12:25 
p.m., we slowly pull away from the " Toledo Jam" into plain 
sailing. 

A run of an hour and a half — past the mouth of Mill 
Creek, against a 10 or 12 mile current — brought us to Parker's 



AT THE HEAD OF NAVIGATION. 261 

Landing, on the right bank, about two miles below Klickitat 
bridge, and some 20 miles above Toledo. 

The timber here is exceptionally fine, and the soil 
very rich. 

At 3 p.m. the Toledo was again slowly advancing. Soon 
the river narrows to 30 or 40 yards, and grows more and 
more rapid, rushing between great rocks which stand out 
threateningly in the channel, as if warning us to come no 
farther. 

Captain Smith said he could have taken us through, but 
everybody appeared well satisfied to see the boat turning back 
and heading for Toledo. 

The supply of wood was getting short, the time set apart 
for the expedition far spent, and besides the Captain didn't 
propose to take any further risks with such fishermen as 
Judge Strong, lawyer Catlin and their friend Scoggin — 
who, if given half a chance, might sink his boat with moun- 
tain trout, just for the sport of it! It was reported that they 
had already caught one fish between the three, since morn- 
ing, which shows the wisdom of the Captain's course. 

The way we went down the Cowlitz was a caution to un- 
skilled navigators, in some places not less than 20 miles an 
hour, but touching bottom only once, when, in turning a 
short bend, the stern of the boat swung on to a sand-bar. 

At Bennett's the ladies presented Captains Smith and 
Kellogg with a beautiful bouquet, and all along the way the 
settlers most enthusiastically shouted and waived their con- 
gratulations. 

The ascent was highly satisfactory to all concerned. The 
navigation of the Cowlitz, from Toledo to Parker's Landing, 
presents less difficulties than have already been overcome 
by the Kelloggs in reaching that point. 

The shallowest water found was nearby four feet, and the 
river is quite free from snags and other obstructions, which 
can be removed with comparatively small outlay- 
Captain Orin Kellogg informed me that they will now 
make trips to the highest point reached whenever the 
patronage warrants it, and the stage of the water permits. 

Judging from my own observations and interviews with 



262 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

parties who are familiar with the country, there is room on 
the upper Cowlitz for at least a thousand families to make 
comfortable homes. It is true they will have to be cut and 
dug out of the forests, but the excellence and certainty of 
the crops and healthfullness of the climate are considerations 
which will insure its rapid settlement. 

THE COAST OF WASHINGTON. 

Trip No. 6. — Through the Shoalwater Bay, Gray's Harbor 
and Chehalis Country — Its Dairy, Lumbering, Mining 
and Fishing Industries. Among the Sea-side Resorts of 
Washington — Ihvaeo, Sea-view, Oysterville and Peterson's 
Point — and Three Bays with the Sea Otter Hunters of 
the North Pacific Coast. Round Trip, 600 Miles. 

My readers have already become familiar with the prin- 
cipal places and points of interest from Portland to the 
mouth of the Columbia. 

Arriving at Astoria, I took the Gen. Canby, Captain 
Parker, which, as previously stated, makes regular daily 
trips to Ilwaco, via Forts Stevens and Canby, connecting 
with the Shoalwater Bay transportation steamers and Loomis' 
stage line through to Puget Sound, and in about two hours 
reached 

ILWACO, now so rapidly growing in favor as a sea-side 
resort. 

It is charmingly situated on the north shore of Baker's 
Bay, with a fine southern exposure, almost perfectly shel- 
tered from all harsh and disagreeable winds by thick forests 
of spruce, with an excellent reputation for healthfulness and 
remarkable evenness of temperature. 

Though the annual deposit of moisture exceeds 65 inches, 
the rainfall during the months of July, August and Septem- 
ber, comprising the season of its occupation as a summer 
resort, seldom interferes with its thorough enjoyment as 
such. 

Already the campers were arriving, and they could scarcely 
find a more desirable place to pitch their tents. 

The soil is a light sandy loam, quickly absorbing moist- 



SEA- VIEW. 263 

ure, never muddy, and covered with groves of spruce, just 
dense enough to afford agreeable aud healthful shade. 

There are many places of interest within easy walking- 
distance — the U. S. garrison of Fort Canby, occupying a 
delightful situation in a sheltered cove, two miles eastward. 
Just beyond, upon the summit of a rocky promontory, the 
fort, its guns commanding the entrance to the magnificent 
Columbia, and a little further on the Cape Hancock Light- 
house, from which point, if the day be clear, the visitor will 
obtain an ocean and inland view of exceeding grandeur. 

A good road leads through a forest of spruce to Sea- 
view, two miles, and from thence along a splendid beach for 
18 miles to Oysterville, on Shoalwater Bay, and another 
seven miles to its southern shore. 

Mr. James D. Holman (deceased), was the pioneer of 
Ilwaco, having settled there in 1850, but was almost its sole 
occupant for many years. 

The Holman Tract, laid out into 50x100 foot lots and 
five-acre blocks and plats, embraces nearly a thousand acres 
of the choicest portions of the town-site, fronting with a 
splendid beach, three-quarters of a mile on Baker's Bay, 
and one-quarter of a mile on the Pacific Ocean, affording 
most admirable building sites and excellent locations for 
salmon fisheries and canneries. 

The property includes the magnificent Butte Tract, 
near Sea-view, and also the spring of splendid water 
near by. 

It is now quite a little village of hotels, boarding-houses 
and residences, comprising two hotels— the Bay-view House, 
by Captain Williams, and the Ilwaco Hotel, Mr. J. H. How- 
erton, proprietor, two general stores, Davis & Brown and 
W. W. "Ward, also Postmaster. 

The main support of the people is derived from salmon 
fishing. 

There is daily communication between Ilwaco and Asto- 
ria, tri-weekly with Portland, and also to points on Shoal- 
water Bay and Gray's Harbor. 
I next proceeded to 

SEA-VIEW, which has not inappropriately been called 
the Long Branch of the North Pacific Coast. 



264 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

So far as its beach is concerned, which extends from Cape 
Hancock, for over 25 miles, an unbroken stretch of very 
gradually receding shore, entirely free from rocks, and with- 
out inlet or other obstructions, it surpasses the great ocean 
attraction of that famous watering-place. 

That portion of it embraced within the limits of the town 
of Sea-view, as laid out by Mr. J. L. Stout, the proprietor, 
contains 30 acres, comprising 21 blocks, and 168 lots, 50x 
100 feet, many of which have already been sold to prominent 
citizens of Portland and Astoria. 

Some eight or ten cottages were being erected and others 
contemplated building soon. 

These desirable sea-side lots are still offered for the small 
consideration. of from $50 to $100 each. 

The Sea- View House, the principal hotel on this part 
of the coast, is new, and affords good accommodations for 
about 60 guests. 

The table is constantly supplied with excellent butter, 
fresh milk, eggs and vegetables from the proprietor's own 
dairy farm of over 400 acres of the richest beaver-dam 
lands. 

Two miles beyond Sea- View is Long Beach. This is about 
five miles from the Cape, and the beginning of the Shoal- 
water Bay peninsula — a narrow strip of beach, upland, 
meadow and tide land, varying from one to two miles in 
width, with an average elevation of about 12 feet above high 
water, and extending 20 miles north to the entrance of the 
bay. Six men own and occupy the first 10 miles — Mr. 
Tinker, 320 acres; John Briscoe and Capt. Eastabrook, pio- 
neers of 1853— the former 1100, and the latter 800. Mr. 
Briscoe is also the owner of a fine 300-acre tract near Cape 
Disappointment, containing splendid building sites for sea- 
side cottages and villas, for which it is now offered. Next 
L. A. Loomis and E. G. Loomis own over 1000 acres, hav- 
ing a frontage of three miles to the ocean, and embracing 
one of the choicest portions of the peninsula. Their resi- 
dence and farm buildings occupy a very pleasant divide, 
gently sloping both ocean and bay-ward, and covered with a 
fine growth of Scotch pine. These lands are devoted chiefly 



OYSTERVILLE. 265 

to dairying and stock-raising, for which they are well adapted. 
The butter made here is of excellent quality, the cows graz- 
ing throughout the year, being seldom fed, except for a 
short period during an occasional severe winter. Mr. E. G. 
Loomis — the oldest settler now residing in Pacific county, 
having located at Ilwaco 32 years ago — informed me that 
their wool-clip averaged 4J lbs. to the fleece, and that 12 lbs. 
had been taken from one sheep. Though the soil is sandy 
and light, it produces good crops of potatoes and other 
vegetables, oats and hay. 

Ten miles travel from Loomis' — eight along the splendid 
beach, and two miles through burnt spruce bottoms — 
brought me to 

OYSTERVILLE, the principal town and county seat of 
Pacific county. Settled in 1852, '3 and '4, by Frank Garrison, 
Clark, Capt. Eastabrook, Espey, Stephens, Richard Car- 
ruthers and others, for a number of years, and down to 1874, 
during the height of activity in the oyster trade, it was one 
of the most important places in the Territory. Over 50,000 
baskets of oysters were shipped annually to the San Pran- 
cisco market. In 1875 the oysters became diseased and 
poor, and the industry declined rapidly, and without other 
developed resources, the place languished. But it is now en- 
tering upon a new era of prosperity. The oysters have recov- 
ered their health and are on the increase, some 200 baskets 
a month being now exported to Portland and San Francisco; 
saw-mills of large capacity are being erected on the shores 
of the bay within sight; new settlers are coming in, and its 
many advantages as a summer watering-place are yearly at- 
tracting an increased number of visitors from the interior. 

The situation is pleasant and very healthful, temperature 
cool and equable, water good, and people hospitable. 

It comprises some 50 buildings, including a church, 
school-house, Carruthers' hotel, the Pacific House, store and 
post-office by D. A. Rodney, and store by Mr. I. S. Jones. 
Mr. Carruthers informed me that there are extensive cranberry 
marshes along the shores of the southern arm of the bay, 
which were formerly veiy productive. 



266 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

Here, after a good dinner at the Pacific House, I took 
passage on the steamer Gen. Garfield, Capt. John Brown, for 
Woodward's Landing, the present head of navigation on the 
Willopah River, the principal stream flowing into 

SHOALWATER BAY.— This body of water, most appro- 
priately named, embraces at high tide a surface area estimated 
at 80 square miles, about one-half of which is laid bare at 
low tide. The entrance is five and a half miles wide from 
Leadbetter Point on the south, to Lewis or Toke Point on 
the north. There are two channels, the North and South, 
with a large shoal called the Middle Sands, lying between 
them. The bar at the North Chaimel is about a mile in ex- 
tent, and has three and a quarter fathoms of water. At the 
South Channel the bar is a mile in width, with four fathoms 
of water upon it. Good channels are found throughout the 
bay, but pilots are necessary to follow them. An arm 
stretches southward for 14 or 15 miles toward Baker's Bay, 
with an average width of about three and a half miles. 

There are three islands in the bay, known as Long, Pine 
and Round Islands — the former the largest, being some six 
miles long and one and a half miles wide. The shoals are 
covered with shell-fish, and salmon, codfish, halibut, sturgeon 
and herring abound. It is a great resort for wild geese, 
swan, mallard and canvas-back duck, and other water-fowl. 
The Willopah, Pulux, Nesal, Necomanche and North Rivers, 
are the most important streams flowing into it. There is a 
considerable quantity of unoccupied Government lands, 
adapted to dairying and farming, lying along the latter, now 
attracting settlers. 

It was low tide when we started from Oysterville, laying 
bare thousands of acres of flats opposite, the long half-mile 
wharf only reaching about halfway to where the little 16-ton 
steamer la}' waiting to receive us. The accommodating 
driver of the Ilwaco stage pressed his team into the bay al- 
most belly deep, until met by a small boat called a dingey, 
into which we stepped from the stage, and were quickly taken 
aboard. The wind was blowing quite fresh directly ahead, 
but the Gen . Garfield plunged fearlessly into the rising 



WOODWARD'S LANDING. 267 

waves — sometimes covering us with spray — rounding near 
the bluff white shores of Goose Point, and reaching the first 
landing, Bay Centre, 10 miles from Oysterville, in about an 
hour and a half. This village lies on the northeast side of 
the point, and consists of some 15 buildings— wharf, house, 
store, school-house and residences, with a light growth of 
spruce and hemlock in the background. A half-dozen oyster 
boats were anchored near the shore opposite. A narrow 
belt of rich tide land borders Patia Creek, which flows into 
the bay here. A few Indian huts were seen near its mouth. 
Capt. Brown carries the U. S. mail, and we next headed for 
North Cove, two miles east of the Toke Point light-house. 
The Indian village of Georgetown, containing some 50 people 
of the Quinault tribe, is situated on the shore tw r o or three 
miles to the eastward. The U. S. Government provides 
them with a school, but no other assistance. There is no 
landing at the Cove, and the steamer lay out in deep water 
and sent the mail ashore in a small boat. It was nearly dark 
when we got under way again, and 10 o'clock before the Cap- 
tain announced our arrival at 

South Bend. — This town — situated on the left bank of 
the Willopah Eiver, about three miles from its mouth — is at 
present the most important business centre of the Shoal- 
water Bay country. Simpson & Co's saw-mill, located here, 
manufactures about 12,000,000 feet of lumber annually, ship- 
ping in their own vessels to San Francisco. They employ 
40 men at the mill, and a much larger force in their numer- 
ous logging camps. 

There are extensive bodies of excellent fir and spruce 
timber upon the head-waters of the Willopah and Nesal 
Rivers, about 10,000,000 feet of which are being cut annually. 
The logs scale on an average about 1000 feet, and the loggers 
receive $4.75 per 1000. Boats drawing eight feet can reach 
this point at low tide. 

Remaining here over night, in the morning we ascended 
the river nine miles further to 

WOODWARD'S LANDING, at the head of steamboat 
navigation on the right bank, 30 miles from Oysterville. It 



268 WASHINGTON TEBBITORY. 

is quite free from snags, log jams or obstructions of any 
kind, there being four feet of water on the shallowest bars 
at low tide. The current does not exceed four miles an 
hour in any place. The Willopah valley is over 30 miles in 
length, varying from one-half to one mile in width. A con- 
siderable area of the richest tide lands extends along both 
banks for a distance of 14 miles from its mouth. These 
produce large crops of grass, afford excellent pasturage, and 
may easily be reclaimed, by dyking, for agricultural pur- 
poses. They are bordered by a forest of spruce and hem- 
lock, which increased in density as we advanced, except where 
consumed by timber fires. 

It is settled all along the way, there being more than 70 
families living upon the upper Willopah above Woodward's 
Landing, on and near the little openings known as "Forks," 
"Half Moon," "Fern" and "Elk" Prairies. They speak 
highly of the healthfulness of the climate, though the women 
complain somewhat of the excessive rainfall in winter, which 
confines them so much in doors. These people are engaged 
mainly in dairying and stock-raisiug. Small fruits generally 
do well, but apples are subject to blight and specking. 

Returning, Capt. Brown landed me at North Cove, Toke 
Point, just in time to secure passage on Peterson's stage for 
Peterson's Point, 15 miles north, at the entrance to Gray's 
Harbor. This line makes regular trips twice a week in 
connection with the Ilwaco, Shoal water Bay and Gray's Har- 
bor steamers. 

We started from the North-Cove House, Mrs. Johnson, 
situated in a very pleasant Scotch pine opening near the bay , 
and crossing the point some two and a half miles, most of 
the way through a thick growth of pine, spruce and alder, 
followed a magnificent beach eleven miles, then recrossed to 
Mr. Glen Peterson's on the Gray's Harbor side. A sea-side 
resort called 

Ocean Park has recently been laid out here. This vi- 
cinity possesses rare attractions for those health and pleas- 
ure-seekers fond of hunting and fishing. 

Gold Mining at Gray's Harbor. — Peterson's Point con- 
tains one of the largest known deposits of black magnetic 



GRAY'S HARBOR. 269 

gold-bearing sand. There are upwards of 100 acres exposed 
to sight, every cubic yard of which weighs two tons, assay- 
ing from- $12 to $20, and yielding from $2.25 to $2.40 gold 
per ton by sluice tests. The gold is exceedingly fine, and so 
difficult to save in paying quantities by the means hitherto 
employed, that prospectors, after a brief period of experi- 
menting here some ten years ago, abandoned the work for 
more inviting fields. 

GRAY'S HARBOR, discovered by Capt. Gray in 1792, 
contains an area of about 40 square miles, more than two- 
thirds of which is bare at low water. The entrance (some 
three miles in width) lies between Point Brown (or Damon) 
on the north, Point Hanson, Chehalis (Armstrong or Peter- 
son) on the south, the channel being about five-eighths of a 
mile wide, with 16 feet of water on the bar. The Chehalis, 
Humptulups, Hoquium and Johns are the principal rivers 
flowing into it. The Chehalis, the most important, drains 
an area of upwards of two hundred square miles. Its chief 
tributaries are the Newaukum, Skookum Chuck, Black, Sat- 
sop, Wynoche, and Whishka rivers. It is navigable during 
six months of the year to Claquato, for boats drawing three 
feet of water; and to Shotwell's Ranch, 15 miles up the 
Black River, and within 14 miles of Puget Sound, at Olym- 
pia. 

Prior to May, 1882, there had been no regular line of 
boats of any kind traversing these waters — Indian canoes, 
bateaux, dingeys and small sail boats called plungers, hav- 
ing been the only means of communication. On the 3d of 
that month, Capt. J. P. Whitcomb began to run tbe " Mon- 
tesano" bi-weekly between Montesano and Peterson's Point, 
carrying the U. S. mail, and touching at Damon's, near 
Point Brown, Hoquium, Cosmopolis, and other points, as 
desired. 

Having completed my examination of the immediate 
coast as far north as intended, I took passage on this steamer 
for Montesano, en route through the Chehalis country. This 
ride of about 40 miles by the channel, affords excellent views 
of the entire shore of the harbor. They embrace quite ex- 



270 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

tensive tracts of tide lands on the southeast side, and at the 
mouths of the principal rivers; with white bluffs of sand- 
stone, clay and shells, intervening— being the highest on the 
northern side. A thick growth of spruce, hemlock and alder 
border the bottom lands and the banks everywhere. Six 
miles out on the right, we passed the mouth of John's River, 
upon which there are a few settlers, and a fine body of cedar 
timber being logged for the Cosmopolis saw-mill. Twelve 
miles further to the northwest brought us to the mouth of 
the Hoquium. Simpson & Co. of San Francisco, were 
building a saw-mill there, with a daily capacity for cutting 
80,000 feet, to supply their export trade. This river is 
navigable for light-draught boats, for a distance of 10 miles. 
About half a dozen families occupy its rich tide lands. 

Two miles above, we touched at Hume's salmon cannery, 
situated at the mouth of the Wishka River, navigable for 
some eight miles, and soon after entered the Chehalis. It 
is here about 250 yards wide, with low banks, and broad 
tide land meadows extending up for ten or twelve miles, and 
then succeeded by spruce bottoms, only subject to overflow 
during the winter freshets. Cosmopolis (our first landing 
on the stream, two and a half miles up on the left bank), was 
formerly the principal trading point of this section. It now 
consists of the saw-mill already mentioned, which manufac- 
tures a very excellent quality of cedar lumber. A short 
distance above, on the right, we passed the mouth of Preach- 
er's Slough — so called from the misfortune of an early mis- 
sionary, who, supposing it to be the main river, paddled his 
canoe up it all one night before discovering his mistake. A 
pleasant opening on the right bank, about seven miles from 
the mouth of the Chehalis, was pointed out to me as the 
proposed terminus of the Seattle and Gray's Harbor Rail- 
road. 

At 4 p.m. we reached lower Montesano, a small village, 
picturesquely situated on the left bank, about 40 miles from 
the ocean by the channels. The principal part of the town 
lies on the west side of the river, about one mile from the 
landing. Here I made connection with Sutton's stage for 
Olympia. There are three different lines running-- one by 



THROUGH THE FORESTS TO OLYMPIA. 271 

Moore's mail route, following up the Chehalis and Black 
rivers 57 miles; and two (Sutton's and Peel's) over the Black 
Hills 42 miles, usually by the Hicklin, though sometimes 
taking what is known as the "Hard-Scrabble Road," run- 
ning further west through Mason County. Dense forests of 
fir and hemlock cover more than three-quarters of this en- 
tire region. There are, however, numerous prairie openings 
containing from 250 to 3000 acres, and also large bodies of 
river and creek bottom lands, comparatively lightly timbered 
with vine-maple, alder and cottonwood. The soil of the 
prairies is generally very light and gravelly, suited only to 
grazing; but the bottoms are very rich and quite productive 
of all the staple crops excepting corn. 

A ride of 12 miles through the Wynooche and Satsop 
prairies, brought us to Elma. At Mr. Metcalf's, near Mon- 
tesano, the largest dairy ranch in this section, they were 
milking some 70 fine cows. In the fall they are turned out 
upon the tide-land meadows, where, without shelter or feed- 
ing, they keep fat all winter. As already stated, the butter 
made all along this coast is of excellent quality. 

Seven miles out we crossed the Satsop River, one mile 
and a half from its mouth, on Smith's ferry. He said that 
salmon run up that river by the thousands in the fall, and 
after spawning die in large numbers. 

Elma is a new, clean, handsome little village, situated in 
a fine oak opening near the foothills. I saw no saloon, and 
was glad to hear that no liquor is sold there. 

Continuing our journey, early on Saturday morning, the 
village school teacher and one of her pupils rode with us a 
short distance to join a berrying party. They each carried 
ten-quart pails, and picked them full, as they afterwards told 
me. They grow in greater variety and, especially the black- 
berry, more abundantly than I have ever seen elsewhere. 
The large, sweet salmon-colored salmon-berry is also quite 
plentiful, also the red oval thimble-berry, both growing 
upon bushes from four to eight feet in height. There were 
besides raspberries, gooseberries, black and red huckleber- 
ries and salal berries, currants and Oregon grapes. 

Crossing Choquallam Creek, past an Indian encamp- 



272 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

ment, through small prairie openings, occupied by stock 
and dairy farmers, about noon we descended into a pleasant 
little valley, the home of J. T. Hicklin for over seventeen 
years. 

On the Mock Chehalis River or Creek, which heads near 
his ranch, there are said to be several sections of vacant 
Government land, suited for farming and stock raising.* 

FIVE MILES THROUGH A BURNING FOREST. 

Before leaving the coast, great volumes of smoke were 
seen rolling over the forests in the direction of Olympia. 
Near Elma a horseman cried out that the whole country 
ahead was on fire; that several families had been burned 
out; that the roads were so blockaded with fallen timber 
that it would take weeks to remove it. 

The mail messenger passed us, mounted, having left his 
wagon behind for fear of detention; and before reaching 
Hicklin's the crash of falling trees, sounding like the roar of 
heavy artillery in the distance, as well as the thickening 
smoke, gave much ground to fear that the worst reports were 
not exaggerated. 

A few miles beyond, re-inforced by the Road Overseer, 
a broad-shouldered, brawny man, armed with saws and axes, 
we found ourselves face to face with, and inhaling the hot 
breath of the raging, devouring element. 

It is impossible for those who have never seen the for- 
ests of Western Washington, to imagine the grandeur and 
desolation of the spectacle they present when these great 
fires are sweeping through them. Magnify the fiercest 
prairie fire a hundred times; add the thundering roar of 
the rapid downfall of monster firs, big and long enough for 
an effectual breastwork for 300 men; pile these black, burn- 
ing giants one above another, from ten to thirty feet in 
height, over hundreds and thousands of acres; let great 
burning limbs descend, whizzing and glaring like meteors 
shot from the heavens; hear the crackling of the advancing 
flames through the undergrowth sounding as the musketry of 
an advancing army; then envelop the whole scene with an 
atmosphere glaring with heat, stifling with smoke and full of 



A FOREST FIRE. 273 

cinders, and lighting up the heavens at night for miles 
around, driving all animals and birds before it in great 
alarm; witness the consternation of the threatened and re- 
treating inhabitants, and the picture is still incomplete. 

Fortunately, the tire had crossed our road a few hours 
previous, and though burning fiercely on all sides, and the 
air hot and choking, we were able to penetrate the lines and 
soon reach the first obstructions. I doubt if ever two men 
did better execution with saw and axes than Sutton and his 
able assistant in our four hours' battle for a passage around, 
over and under them. 

After we had flanked several monster trees which lay 
across the road higher than breastworks, and had sawed and 
cut in two a score of lesser size, and driven under 
half as many more, we came to a burnt bridge, entirely 
gone, and the prospect of getting through that day, 
after all our hard labor, appeared dismal enough. But, 
on looking up the creek, we discovered within sight an old 
decayed bridge, which, after strengthening with props, bore 
us safely over, to our great delight. 

Night was approaching, and, by request, I went on 
ahead to examine and report upon the character and extent 
of the difficulties which still lay before us. We were very 
glad to find that half an hour's more work cutting around 
the trunk of a huge fir would release us from the last ob- 
struction. 

Washing in a clear, cool stream a short distance beyond, 
we rode rapidly on, reaching Olympia at 10 p.m., some five 
hours late. 

I returned with Wm. Moore, who carries the mail from 
Olympia to Montesano, via the Black River and Chehalis 
Valley, passing through the most extensive prairie open- 
ings in Western Washington — Bush's, Mima, Canby, Bound- 
tree and Ford's — gravelly and poor, covered with a thick 
growth of fern, surrounded with forests of fir, cedar and 
hemlock, and bordered along the rivers with rich clay and 
beaver-dam bottoms. 

I saw several fields of fine-looking wheat of the club va- 
riety, large growths of timothy, red-top and meadow grasses. 



274 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

There are extensive tracts of fir and cedar timber lying along 
the water-courses, the choicest of which is owned by the 
great lumber and saw mill companies. 

At the crossing of the Black River, one of the passengers 
told me he helped build the " Carrie Davis," which some 12 
years ago made one trip as far as Shotwell's, the first and 
only steamboat navigation of that stream. This man is one of 
those interesting specimens found only among those who for 
the last 30 or 40 years have lived on the extreme frontiers of 
the country. 

"I have been on a drunk for a month," he said, "and 
am now tapering off with brandy punch," and taking out a 
quart bottle from his side-pocket, poured down about half 
of its contents, the balance of which soon followed. He 
had never seen any of the modern inventions of mowing, 
reaping or threshing machines. On one of the large ranches 
we overtook a farmer driving home on the road ahead of us 
a new mower. 

" What in li-ll is that?" he exclaimed, with an earnest- 
ness which left no doubt of his sincerity, and we explained 
to the astonished discoverer its use and operation. 

Further on a Methodist circuit-rider jogged past on 
horseback, and with a most comical expression, our taper- 
ing-off companion remarked ; "There goes a gospel- 
grinder ! " Soon after the abundance of the salmon-berries 
attracted our attention. "I once picked salmon -berries 
with a bear," said the brandy punch man. "A black 
bear?" "Yes! "and he laughed right heartily. "I'll tell 
you how it was : In 1857 a party of us went out berrying one 
Sunday, about two miles from Olympia. I was intently en- 
gaged in picking from a bush which hung very full, when I 
heard a noise on the opposite side. Looking up, expecting 
to see one of our party, a huge black bear stood staring me 
right in the face! He was so near I could have put my hand 
on his head. But I didn't stop to pet him ! No ! I let him go, 
and was mighty glad to get away myself! " 

At Smith's ford of the Chehalis, an Indian derrick for 
spearing salmon stood in the middle of the stream. It con- 
sisted of a tripod of poles strongly fastened at the top, sup- 



SEA-OTTER HUNTING. 275 

porting a platform covered with boughs, raised about two 
feet above the water. Standing upon this, they spear them 
in large numbers. 

During the winter freshets, Moore swims the river with 
the mail on horseback, an old Indian never failing to meet 
him just in time to accompany him across with his canoe. 
Now the blackened ruins of log houses confirmed the report 
of several poor settlers having been burned out of house 
and home. People building cabins in the forests should 
clear away the timber around them for at least 50 rods. 

Arriving at Montesano the following morning, I pro- 
ceeded by steamer to Damon's Point, the home of Captain 
Damon, avIio owns a very extensive dairy ranch here. 

THREE DAYS WITH THE PRINCIPAL SEA-OTTER HUNTERS ON THE 
NORTH PACIFIC COAST — THE RANGE, HABITS, AND MODE OF 
HUNTING THE SEA-OTTER. 

The shore of the Pacific, from Gray's Harbor northward 
to Point Greenville, a distance of about 30 miles, contains 
the most extensive sea-otter hunting grounds in the United 
States. 

The object of my visit, to examine this most interesting 
pursuit, becoming known, I was soon introduced to three of 
the otter hunters — S. R. Grover, H. W. Weatherall and A. 
Congdon — who had come to Damon's for their mail, and by 
them cordially invited to their hunting cabins. I most 
gladly accepted their hospitality, and spent three days 
with the principal sea-otter hunters of the North Pacific 
coast. 

THE SEA-OTTER, 

One of the most valuable fur-bearing, amphibious mam- 
mals, is found chiefly between latitudes 49° and 60° north, 
in Kamtschatka, Alaska, British Columbia and Washing- 
ton's waters, though formerly killed in considerable num- 
bers as far south as the southern coast of California. Their 
range off the coast of Washington extends from Gray's Har- 
bor north for a distance of about 30 miles. When driven 
off by storms or other causes, they return again as soon as 
possible. Their preference for this part of the coast is 



276 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

doubtless due to the abundance of clams and sea-crabs, 
their principal food, found here. 

The full-grown sea-otter is over six feet in length, of a 
lustrous black color, with a round, smooth head, short neck, 
small eyes and ears, short webbed feet or nippers, and 
weighs from 50 to 75 pounds. They reach maturity at from 
two to three years, but are known to live to be over twenty 
years old. 

The veteran hunter, Congdon, familiarly known as 
"Yank," killed an otter in 1881 containing a bullet shot 
into it by Blodgett in 1862. 

They are quite prolific, bearing their young one and two 
at a time, at all seasons of the year. It is thought by most 
of the hunters that they bring them forth in the water, 
since they are found at sea when evidently only a few hours 
old, and of late years they are seldom seen on the shore or 
rocks. 

The mother shows a strong attachment for the infant 
otter, folding it carefully upon her breast, when swimming, 
never abandoning but often risking her own life to protect 
it when closely pursued. They are supposed to live almost 
exclusively upon clams and crabs, no other articles of food 
having been found in their stomachs. They dive to the 
bottom, pull up the clams by the heads, shell and eat them 
with surprising dispatch. 

They swim upon their backs, using exclusively their 
hind flippers, which, when moving against the current, have 
a semi-rotary screw motion; and they are often seen floating 
lazily before the wind, with their flippers extended upward 
for sails. 

They are very hard to kill, and never give up the struggle 
for life until quite dead, when the head and tail drop, 
leaving only a small portion of the back exposed. They are 
rapid swimmers, but when frightened, sometimes breach, 
jumping out of the water their full length, or diving, remain 
under for a long time, and coming up out of the range of the 
hunter. 

Though naturally docile and easily tamed, they defend 
themselves bravely when attacked. Not long ago the hunt- 



THE SEA-OTTER HUNTERS. 277 

ers witnessed a fierce battle between a sea-lion and an otter, 
which lasted until a great wave cast both high and dry upon 
the beach. Once a year, in Jnly, the several families of 
otter upon this range — variously estimated from six to ten, 
with from twenty to fifty members in each —have a grand re- 
union for some unknown object. 

The Indians are fond of their meat, which is very fat and 
oily, considering it equal to elk or Venison. 

Congdon said they could not be poisoned, for he once 
fed them upon strychnine, which they ate in quantities, with- 
_ out any observable bad effect. 

The male otter is the largest, having the finest and most 
valuable fur, which is in prime condition at all seasons; the 
best specimens bring from $80 to $110, none having been sold 
for less than $60 this year. 

While interviewing the hunters at Capt. Damon's, his 
daughter came into the room, bringing a most beautiful otter 
skin over six feet in length, its rich, glossy black fur spark- 
ling with the much prized, white silver-tipped hairs inter- 
mixed. 

A walk of some ten minutes, through a light belt of 
Scotch pine, then across a meadow and a wide beach thickly 
covered with immense drift logs, brought me to ' ' Yank 's ' ' 
cabin, the first of the six, which at intervals of about half a 
mile along the shore northward, are occupied during the 
summer months by 

THE SEA-OTTER HUNTERS. 

The regular professional white hunters are A. Congdon, 
H. Blodgett, H. W. Weatherall, S. E. Grover, Chas. Mc- 
Intyre, Capt. Joseph Parin, A. Holeman and Chas. White. 
They are intelligent, well-informed men, several past middle 
life, Congdon over 70 and Capt. Parin 55; miners, trappers, 
whalers and war veterans, full of rich experience and thrill- 
ing adventure. Congdon has hunted sea-otter on the Pacific 
Coast for over 30 years, and is a most remarkable specimen 
of robust health, good eyesight and steady nerve at that age; 
and Blodgett for about 20 years, continuously at this place. 
There are also several successful hunters belonging to the 



278 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

Quinault tribe of Indians, Dan. 0. Pittum, Mason, Hallas- 
kin, Col. Baker Toastum and others. The last named drove 
me up from the steamer to Damon's with a pair of flying 
trotters. When I praised his fine team he was exceedingly 
gratified, and leaning forward and elevating the reins in true 
race- course style, enthusiastically exclaimed, "Way up! 
Way up! you bet, "his long black hair streaming in the wind. 
Grover says this extravagant sporting Indian buys the best 
horses he can find almost every spring, from the proceeds of 
his otter hunting, and starves them to death the following 
winter. 

They received me with the utmost cordiality, Grover and 
Mclntyre going with me to Weatherall's cabin. A young 
Indian was preparing the evening meal, and after an excel- 
lent supper on boiled crabs, oyster stew, prunes, meat, bread 
and butter, etc., they took down their rifles for a little off- 
hand target practice. 

WHAT THEY SHOOT WITH. 

Sharp's rifles —from 12 to 16 lbs., from 40 to 45 lb. cali- 
bre — are used exclusively by the hunters. They are very 
emphatic in their preference, after having tried all the most 
favorably known of other manufacture. For accuracy, 
power, safety, promptness and durability, combined, they 
pronounce them superior to all others. They make their 
own cartridges, using Hazard's best 90 and 100 grain rifle- 
powder, and conical balls, with the hunter's initials or private 
mark run in the base cavity, to assist in determining, incase 
of doubt, who fired the fatal shot. Their rifles are kept in 
splendid order, by carefully wiping and oiling with Singer's 
machine sperm oil, after using. We fired several times all 
around, the only difference in our shooting being that, while 
I missed, they hit the mark almost every time! And yet, 
notwithstanding their remarkable accuracy, about 100 shots 
are fired, on an average, for every otter killed. Formerly 
they were comparatively tame — swimming within gun-shot 
of the shore, but now seldom come within three or four hun- 
dred yards — and then, only when the wind blows quite 
freshly from the north or southwest. The best target and 



HOW THE OTTER ARE SHOT. ' 279 

dead shots have utterly failed at otter-hunting. Besides, the 
most perfect skill as a marksman, it requires the most accu- 
rate judgment in estimating distances and the force of the 
drift or wind and the voluntary and involuntary motions of 
the animal in the breakers. 

HOW THE OTTER AEE SHOT. 

There are only about two good otter-hunting days in a 
week, on an average, during the season — from May to Sep- 
tember—and two passed after my arrival, with only two or 
three long range shots by Weatherall. I was pressed to re- 
main over another day, and when the wind sprang up in the 
afternoon, climbed up with Grover to the top of one of his 
hunting-derricks. These consist of a tripod some 40 feet in 
height, constructed of poles mounted with a boxed seat pro- 
vided with a rifle-rest. They stand out in the ocean several 
rods at high tide — when the otter run most — and at intervals 
of about half a mile for a long distance, there being fifteen 
derricks in all. Weatherall, Grover and Mclntyre have also 
hunted successfully from a great rock situated about one- 
quarter of a mile from shore, upon which they built a cabin 
and lived for several months. 

When the otter moves too rapidly to follow on foot, 
Weatherall mounts a pony, and attaching one end of a rope 
to an ingenious combination of hand and horse ladder 
mounted on wheels, and winding the other end around the 
pommel of the saddle, gallops up or down the beach with 
his movable derrick as required, until within range. He also 
keeps two most intelligent water-dogs — Rough and Sneider 
— to bring out the otter when killed or fatally wounded, 
which cost him $150. 

The sea-otter sleeps very soundly, and taking advantage 
of this habit, the Indians go out in canoes and cautiously ap- 
proaching, shoot or spear them. W'eatherall and Holeman 
have each recently purchased fine cedar canoes, and propose 
to try the same method. 

All the hunters are provided with field or opera glasses, 
some preferring the latter on account of their wider field. 
Grover uses a fine Waldstein opera, and after looking through 



280 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

it for a short time, remarked: "I thiuk I see an otter! Yes, 
look?" arid handing me the glass, seized his rifle and fired 
(some 400 yards) making a splendid shot. Several rounds 
followed, before the sleek-headed fellow disappeared for the 
last time. It was most admirable shooting, barely missing; 
and had the otter rode one more breaker near shore, as ex- 
pected, I am quite sure Grover would have killed it. There 
was a little skirmishing all along the line — one otter seriously 
wounded by Capt. Parin, but none captured. 

Returning to the cabin, I examined the process of pre- 
paring the skins for the market. It is very simple, consist- 
ing of stretching them, fur side in, over two smooth boards, 
by means of a long entering wedge, and carefully scraping 
off all meat and fatty substance with a dull knife. After 
drying for about three days, without the application of alum 
or anything else, they are ready for shipment. 

THE PROFITS OP THE HUNTERS. 

In former years considerable fortunes were made by sea- 
otter hunting, but since they have grown so wild, the results 
vary greatly, according to the skill and enterprise of the 
hunter, ranging from a few hundreds to thousands. Weath- 
erall, for example, shot five otter in a single day, worth at 
least $350; but this is nearly one-fifteenth of the entire num- 
ber killed here during the season. 

The steamer Montesano did not touch at Damon's Point 
as usual on her down trip. The Indians had all gone to a 
death dance — over an old man drowned while fishing — ex- 
cept one, and he had been sent across the harbor by Col. 
Oliver Wood, of the Quinault Indian Agency. While cast- 
ing about how to get over, I met the Colonel, a very affable 
gentleman, who kindly proposed to go out on the point and 
hail Indian Sampson, whose returning sail could be seen in 
the distance. Sampson saw our signal, and carried us safely 
to Peterson's Point. The stage for Shoalwater Bay, 15 miles 
distant, had been gone over an hour. Could I overtake it, 
and still make connection through to Portland ? The land- 
lady thought it impossible. I determined, however to try. 
Reaching the fine beach stretching away southward, level 



THROUGH THE PUGET SOUND REGION. 281 

as a floor for ten miles, the stage heavily loaded and moving 
slowly, was seen several miles ahead. Keeping close to the 
water's edge where the sands were hardest, I rapidly gained 
upon and overhauled it just before leaving the ocean shore, 
for the pine woods of Coke's Point. The driver now urged 
his team to its best efforts, and the last two miles was a 
warm race, but the stage was beaten two minutes. The 
steamer, however, which we had been assured would wait 
for the arrival of the stage, had left. Searching the shore 
of the bay, we discovered a small sailboat high and dry, 
which, after some difficulty, we launched by means of roll- 
ers, then found the owner, who carried us over to Oyster- 
ville, still in time to secure passage on the out-going stage. 

Trip No. 7. -From Yaquina Bay, Oregon, to Puget Sound, 
on steamer Yaquina, visiting Port Townsend, Seattle, Ta- 

coma, Olympia, Whatcom, and man// oilier points of in- 
terest, 900 miles. 

The good people of Newport — men, women and children, 
flocked to the bluffs overlooking the beautiful harbor, and 
enthusiastically waved us their adieus. The sea was as 
smooth as though it had never storm-tossed and wrecked a 
poor sailor or passenger, and made the latter sick unto death, 
and never would do so again. With a favoring wind and 
bright starlight night, early on the following morning, we 
were passing Fort Hancock, at the mouth of the Columbia 
River. 

After detaching the bold, imposing headlands of the 
Cape, to welcome and guide the mariner into its grand river, 
the Coast Mountains recede for a considerable distance from 
the ocean — the intervening country being comparatively un- 
broken, presenting everywhere the dark, green foliage of its 
interminable forests. The homes of a few settlers are seen 
half-concealed among the trees bordering the fine beach. 
The "Ocean House," a sea-side resort, is situated here. 

When opposite Gray's Harbor, 12 miles further on, the 
thick clouds w T hich had obscured the summits of the moun- 
tains for several hours, rose and unveiled the snowy peaks of 
Mount St. Helens, far in the interior, and the steep, rugged, 



282 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

snow-covered sides of the Coast Eange now approaching 
nearer the sea. 

Dense clouds hung threateningly along the base of the 
mountains, a mist enveloped the shore, confining our views 
to narrow limits around the vessel, an hour before sun- 
down. 

I awoke at 3:30 the following morning, with the wind 
blowing freshly into my stateroom, which I had imprudently 
left open. I could hear the wind and the pouring rain, and 
looking out, see the breakers glistening through the dark- 
ness. The ship was swinging with rapid but easy motion. 

I found Mr. Hatch, our most obliging purser, in his 
night-clothes, "corraling," as he said, his books and sta- 
tionery, which had broken loose and were playing a reckless 
game of "blind man's buff," with damaging collisions. The 
dishes in the pantry were clinking a lively medley, which 
seemed to threaten their destruction. 

Proceeding to the upper deck, I was met at the top of the 
ladder by Moody, who exclaimed, "Look out, or you'll go 
overboard ! " I seized the railing and held on, while a big- 
wave rocked the vessel like a cradle in the hands of an angry 
nurse. 

"It didn't stay ' settled fair ' very long," I remarked; the 
barometer having indicated that a few hours before. 

' ' No ; but, thank God, it will soon be daylight, and we are 
not far from Cape Flattery," replied Moody. 

Soon the Captain appeared in his storm suit, and shouting 
to the helmsman, "Nor' by nor'east!" continued: "This 
is a rocky coast, and I have kept well out at sea. But for 
the storm we would have reached the Straits of Fuca two 
hours ago." 

At 6:35 a.m., while the mate was securing a rope on the 
mainsail, and the Captain had gone a moment for a warmer 
coat, I discovered the dim outlines of a high projecting point 
of land right ahead. 

"Is that the Cape?" I asked of Jaques. 

"Yes, that is the Cape." 

Just then, the Captain returning, I inquired, "How can 
you hit it so close in such foul weather ? " for we had seen no 
light. 



THE STRAITS OF FJJCA. 2<S3 

" Oh, I have been figuring it out carefully, "he answered, 
smilingly. 

Soon we were running between Cape Flattery light-house, 
situated on a little island close to the main land, called Ta- 
toosh, and Duncan's Rock, one mile and an eighth from the 
shore, and were in the Straits of Juan de Fuca. 

A little pilot boat lay waiting for service, for which we 
had no need. 

THE STRAITS OF FUCA are an open sea, broad and 
deep enough for the navies of the world to advance in battle 
line. 

The mountains of Vancouver Island loomed up through 
the mist to the northward, as we rounded into 

NEAH BAY, six miles from the cape. Steaming through 
a fleet of sealing schooners, we dropped anchor in 30 feet of 
water opposite the buildings of the 

MAKAH INDIAN AGENCY, 

A Government Life Saving Station, the store and warehouse 
of the Galleck Brothers, fur traders, and the Indian quar- 
ters. The shore was lined with hundreds of Indian canoes, 
made from great cedars, many of them over 30 feet in length, 
carrying from 20 to 30 people. A large one, paddled by five 
brawny Indians, came alongside, with Mr. Gus Galleck, 
for whom we had fifteen tons of freight. 

"How will you take it?" asked the Captain. " In ca- 
noes," replied Galleck, and large boxes and heavy packages 
and barrels were lowered, and so nicely balanced by the 
dusky navigators, in their canoe lighters, that the transfer 
was made without accident and with great dispatch. A 
party of some 15 Indian women packed the goods from the 
beach to the warehouse, a great muscular brave, nearly 
naked, condescending to assist them in loading their heavy 
burdens upon their heads and backs. 

While the transfer was going on, by invitation of Mr. 
Galleck, we visited his pleasant home, and the quarters of 
Chief Aschicabic and Indian Saxey, examining many fine 
specimens of Indian work — baskets, mats, flasks, napkin 



q WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

rings, etc. We regretted to find the Chief absent. His 
wife was sitting on the floor, braiding a mat, with their 
bright little daughter clinging to her shoulders, looking 
wonderinglj upon the strange visitors. The walls were 
hung with various articles of curious Indian wear. An old 
woman was cleaning fish in a corner, with two or three bush- 
els of clams around her. A bladder full of seal oil lay on 
the table, with an abundant supply of dried fish and other 
Indian luxuries. 

Aschicabic is worth several thousand dollars, and it is 
said that most of his tribe, now numbering about 1000, have 
a few hundred in gold saved up. They are good-sized, 
healthy and strong. 

Dr. Powers says they bathe in the sea every morning 
throughout the year. 

Returning to the beach, we met a party just in from a 
seal hunt, bringing four seals with them. They go out in 
their canoes, two in each, from 20 to 100 miles, cautiously 
approach the seal when sleeping and spear them. The use 
of fire-arms for their capture is not allowed. They receive 
from $1.50 to $7.50 for each seal skin, and in imitation of 
their white brethren, were on a strike for higher prices. 

Nine of us got into a medium-sized canoe, and were 
quickly paddled to the steamer, an Indian woman steering it 
most skillfully. 

Bidding our Neah friends good-by, we sailed for Port 
Townsend, 95 miles from the cape. The sun shines again, 
the wind shifts to the northward, driving the clouds into the 
mountains, and giving us a bright, royal day for our glorious 
ride. 

A little way out, the steam tug Goliah, belonging to the 
Port Gamble Mill Company, was towing an American and for- 
eign bark down the straits : then a full-rigged ship, with all 
sails set, was beating her way, running close to the Vancouver 
shore, 15 miles away; at Challan Bay we passed a salmon fish- 
ery; five miles further, at the mouth of Pyscht River, 23 
miles from Neah Bay, a lumbering camp, and at five o'clock 
Race Rock light-house on the Vancouver shore. 

The straits are here about 18 miles in width, deep as the 



PUGET SOUND. 285 

ocean, with a current of three miles an hour. The Wash- 
ington shores are bold and often precipitous; the snow-cov- 
ered peaks of the Olympic Eange looked down upon us from 
above the clouds; the island of San Juan was seen in the dis- 
tance on our left, New Duugeness light on the right, when 
darkness closed the scene until morning, which found us at 

POET TOWNSEND, the principal port of entry of the 
North Pacific coast. 

It is very picturesquely situated upon a beautiful and 
excellent harbor, 95 miles from Cape Flattery and 45 miles 
from Seattle. 

The business houses occupy a narrow strip near the 
shore, and the residences the summit of the hills, a hundred 
feet or more above. 

A garrison of United States troops is stationed within 
sight across the bay, 

It has daily communication, by steamer, with the prin- 
cipal points on the Sound; tri-weekly with Victoria, B. C; 
weekly with New Dungeness, Port Angeles, Elwah, Pyscht, 
Hoko, Neah Bay and the San Juan group of islands; tri- 
monthly with San Francisco, and monthly with Alaska. 
Commanding the trade of a large scope of country, it does a 
business disproportionate to its size. 

No less than 400 vessels, with an aggregate capacity of 
over 250,000 tons, laden with exports of lumber, coal, wheat 
and other home products, valued at $1,435,615, have cleared 
from this modest little port in a single year. 

Leaving Port Townsend, we soon entered 

PUGET SOUND proper, which for extent and depth, 
number and excellence of its harbors, safety of navigation, 
and grandeur of scenery combined, is the most magnificent 
body of water in the world. It has more than 1500 miles of 
shore line, hundreds of beautiful islands and bays, deep 
water everywhere, and abounds in fish and game. Whidby's 
Island extends on the left for nearly 40 miles, its immediate 
shores thickly wooded, but containing considerable open- 
ings, with prosperous settlements in the interior. On the 
right, Ports Ludlow, Gamble and Madison, the locations of 



286 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

the most extensive saw-mills on the coast, are soon passed. 
Then the entrance to Possession Sound, and a little further 
on Sandy Point Light-house, when 

SEATTLE, the principal city of the territory, comes in 
full view. 

This city, already containing a population of over 7000 
people, has reached the summit of the harbor-sloping hills, 
and is still extending its limits ambitiously toward the 
beautiful shores of Lake Washington. Walking over the 
three miles of rolling, lightly-timbered pine lands to the 
lake, I found parties of men digging and burning out the 
great stumps of forest trees upon lots three-quarters of a 
mile from the city front, which they said were selling from 
1350 to 11000 each. 

The Territorial University, occupying a prominent cen- 
tral location, is an imposing structure. A $25,000 public 
school building and palatial hotel were in course of erection. 
Her marine numbers over 50 vessels, and her annual coal 
exportations exceed 150,000 tons. 

It is early to determine with much certainty the location 
of the city which will in the near future rise to greatness 
upon the shores of Puget Sound. I have seen enough of 
the abounding resources of lumber, coal and iron lying in 
Western Washington alone, to leave no doubt in my mind 
but that their development, now so rapidly progressing, will 
build up a populous commercial and manufacturing city 
upon these, the most magnificent of inland waters. Nature 
has not only provided these great materials of wealth in lav- 
ish abundance, but made them so accessible that their util- 
ization is as certain as the westward movement of the mil- 
lions now seeking homes on the Pacific slope. The Straits 
of Juan de Fuca are an open sea channel from 10 to 18 miles 
in width, and from 25 to 250 fathoms in depth, the only safe 
entrance in stormy weather on the whole North Pacific coast. 
Ships may sail through without the aid of pilots, and when 
inside, find numerous convenient land-locked harbors, afford- 
ing safe anchoring grounds during the severest storms. 

Seattle possesses the great natural advantages of a cen- 



SEATTLE. 287 

tral position on the Sound, and the concentration there 
already of large capital and important interests, under the 
watchful control of an exceptionally able and enterprising 
class of citizens. The great lumber manufacturing estab- 
lishments of Blakeley, Seabeck, Tacoma, Madison, Gamble 
and Ludlow, lie within a radius of 30 miles; her extensive 
coal fields are the most productive on the coast, and consider- 
able bodies of the richest and most available farming lands 
in the Territory lie near at hand. Its growth has been so 
rapid that the stumps of the forest trees are still standing in 
many of the streets just as they were left by the woodman's 
axe. The suburbs of the city extend to the beautiful 
shores of Lake Washington, affording admirable sites 
for country seats and excellent advantages for summer 
resorts. Its harbor is safe and commodious enough for 
all the demands of a large commerce. With such com- 
manding advantages, the future of Seattle is to a great ex- 
tent in the hands of its people. Portland and New Tacoma 
will be powerful competitors for the trade of Eastern Wash- 
ington and Oregon. The combined capital of these places 
and of the great companies now controlling the main lines 
of transportation of this region, will unite to grasp and hold 
as long as possible, this immense interior traffic. It will 
naturally flow toward the best markets for the producers. 
Seattle should lose no time in building the railroad over the 
Cascade Mountains already projected, and create such a 
market. When completed, wheat can be shipped from her 
wharves in deep sea ships, cheaper than from any other port 
north of San Francisco. Western Montaua and Idaho, as well as 
Eastern Washington, would come to her for coal and timber; 
manufactures would spring up, and agriculture gradually 
reclaim from the neighboring forests extensive areas of fer- 
tile lands, capable of supplying all home demands and a 
large surplus for exportation. 

NEW TACOMA..— The Puget Sound terminus of the 
Northern Pacific Eailroad, is situated on the southerly shore 
of Commencement Bay, about midway between Seattle and 
Olympia. It commands one of the most sublime mountain, 



288 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

forest, and inland water views, found on this continent. 
Mount Ranier, the grand central figure, clothed in perpetual 
white, surveys in silent majesty from her towering heights 
the magnificent scene. The town site comprises a series of 
plateaux, the first under the high bluffs, occupied by the 
depots, wharves, warehouses, and headquarter offices of the 
Northern Pacific Railroad; the second by business houses, 
the residences covering the hill-sides from 100 to 200 feet 
above. The great stumps of hundreds of forest trees still 
standing in the streets and door-yards, forcibly suggest the 
rapidity of the onward march of civilization on this coast. 
Its population now numbers about 3500, and is rapidly 
increasing. 

New Tacoma bases her hopes of future importance upon 
four great interests; her mines of coal and iron, forests of 
fir and cedar timber, agriculture, and foreign commerce. 
The excellence of its harbor, the variety and extent of the 
tributary resources, determined the location here of one of 
the great terminal points of the Northern Pacific Railroad. 

The whole country for 30 miles or more along the western 
base of the Cascade Mountains, 20 miles eastward, is a vast 
field of coal. 

The manufacture of lumber, already a most valuable in- 
dustry, will materially enlarge with the growth of the 
country; and there is a sufficient quantity of agricultural 
lands within a radius of fifty miles, when improved, to sus- 
tain a large population. 

It is beyond the possibilities of human foresight to de- 
mine which place upon the Sound will eventually control the 
principal export trade. 

Seattle has the advantage of position, and New Tacoma 
of corporate capital and influence, and one railroad already 
in operation. Both will flourish and increase in size for 
many years, from the development of their separate re- 
sources, independent of Eastern trade; and both will soon 
reach out for that, by railroads over the mountains into the 
great Columbia basin. 



OLYMPIA. 289 

OLYMPI A.— Taking the little steamer Zephyr from Ta- 
coma and sailing southward, touching at the old settlement of 
Steilacoom, and passing near the Territorial Penitentiary on 
McNeil's Island, about three o'clock we rounded into Budd's 
Inlet, when Olympia, the capital, charmingly situated at its 
head, came in full view. It contains about 1500 inhabitants, 
and is, in many respects, the most inviting, home-like place 
in the northwest. 

The inlet is about six miles long and one mile in width — 
its picturesque shores covered with a thick growth of fir, 
cedar and other woods. It abounds with fish, clams and 
oysters, the latter being exported in considerable quantities. 

The Olympia and Tenio Narrow Gauge Railroad connects 
with the main line of the Northern Pacific at Tenio, about 
15 miles south. 

A little way out from Olympia, the narrow gauge road 
runs through the village of Turn water. The beautiful falls 
of the Des Chutes River, over 60 feet, within half a mile, 
afford an excellent water-power, improved by saw, flour and 
other mills. 

FROM SEATTLE TO WHATCOM — THE SNOHOMISH, STEILAGUAMISH, 
SKAGIT AND NOOKSACK COUNTEY. 

Proceeding northward from Seattle, the 100 miles of 
country lying between it and the British possessions, is richer 
in timber, agricultural and mineral resources, than any other 
of equal extent bordering the waters of Puget Sound. It 
comprises the counties of Snohomish and Whatcom, the 
latter, the extreme northwestern in the United States, and 
both extending eastward to the divide of the Cascade Range. 
Numerous streams drain the western slope of these moun- 
tains, within the section described, the Snoqualmie, Skyko- 
mish, Snohomish, Steilaguamish, Skagit, Samish, Lumni 
and Nooksack being the most important. There are quite 
extensive tracts of rich tide and beaver-dam lands bordering 
them. They are expensive to reclaim, but produce large 
crops of oats, hops, potatoes and other vegetables. Above 
tide water there are numerous comparatively lightly-timbered 
valleys, available for agricultural purposes, and especially in 



290 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

the Nooksack region, many thousand acres of level plateau 
still open for settlement. The finest bodies of fir timber in 
the Territory lie along the Skagit and Samish Rivers, and 
also promising coal, iron and gold fields. 

About 22 miles from Seattle, at the white, terraced bluffs 
of Skagit head — the southeastern extremity of Whidby 
Island — we entered Possession Sound, the northern arm of 
Admiralty Inlet, which leads to the straits of Juan de Fuca, 
through Saratoga Passage and Deception Pass. The shores 
of the mainland and the islands are uniformly covered with 
a thick growth of fir, spruce, hemlocks and pine, the former 
prevailing. There are occasional farm houses and clearings 
in sight, though the forests are as yet almost unbroken. 

Eight miles beyond at the entrance to Port Gardner, we 
landed at Mukilteo, a little village of 25 buildings, mainly 
supported by the lumber business. There is a large body of 
fine fir timber lying between the Sound and the Snohomish 
River, of which the Port Blakeley and Port Gamble Mill 
Companies are the principal owners. The firm of Blackmail & 
Howard are getting out here over 2,000,000 feet of logs an- 
nually for these mills. Salmon are caught here in consid- 
erable numbers and taken to the Seattle cannery. 

Leaving Mukilteo, we passed to the right of Gedney Island? 
opposite the mouth of the Snohomish. Along the river and 
its tributaries there are prosperous farming settlements and 
extensive logging camps. 

Nine miles from Mukilteo, the 60 or 70 buildings of the 
Tualip Indian Agency presented an inviting appearance. 
Gen. O'Kane is agent of the Mucldeshoot, Old Man-House, 
Tulalip, Swinomish and Lummi Reservations, containing 
altogether 2800 Indians, 560 of whom belong on the Tualip. 
The Catholics maintain a mission school there. Just as we 
were leaving Sister Blandier, in charge, arrived in a large 
skiff, rowed by 12 well-dressed, comely Indian girls. 

Twenty miles further, through Saratoga Passage, past 
McLean's, Eaton's and Forrest's logging camps, and the 
entrance to Holmes' Bay, between Camano and Whidby 
Islands, which compose Island County, and we reached 



FROM SEATTLE TO WHATCOM: 291 

COUPEVILLE, its principal town, a pleasant village, 
comprising about 30 buildings, situated on the latter, on 
the south side of and one-half mile from the head of Penn 
Cove, Coveland. 

This is one of the numerous termini of the Northern Pa- 
cific Eailroad, which lie all along the Sound, at short inter- 
vals, from Olympia to Bellingham Bay. 

Olympia, Tacoma, Seattle, Port Townsend, Freeport, 
Mukilteo, Holmes' Bay, Coveland, Anacortes, Sehome and 
Whatcom have all had expectations of winning the great 
prize, and becoming the commercial metropolis of this re- 
gion. I met many who spoke hopefully of several of these 
points, though the prevailing opinion among disinterested 
outsiders is that Seattle occupies the most commanding po- 
sition on the Sound, and will control its chief trade in the 
future. 

It has been proposed to utilize the fine harbor of Cove- 
land as a terminal point, by cutting a ship canal from its 
head across Whidby Island, only one and a half miles to the 
Sound, opposite Port Townsend. 

On the shore of the cove and of Penn Harbor, six miles 
to the north, are some of the best farms in Washington — 
Whidby Island being one of the oldest settled portions, and 
now containing a population of about 1000. 

UTSALADY, one of the most extensive lumber manufac- 
turing places of the Puget Mill Company, was next reached. 
It occupies a sheltered cove at the north end of Camano 
Island, and contains besides the mill, store and warehouses, 
about 20 other buildings. 

The mill has been operated since 1853, employs 80 men, 
and has a capacity for sawing 80,000 feet of lumber daily. 
They pay $6.50 per thousand feet for logs, and sell common 
lumber at $15, and finished at $18 per thousand -shipping 
principally to San Francisco and Honolulu. 

GLORIOUS SCENERY. 

Of all the ocean, sound and lake shores, these are the 
most magnificent; so clean cut and handsomely wooded with 
evergreens, and abounding in picturesque situations, a 



292 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

charming labyrinth of straits, inlets, islands, bays and cosy 
indentations, surrounded by the grand snow-covered peaks 
and slopes of the Olympic and Cascade Mountains. 

When better known and more accessible by such conve- 
niences of travel as modern tourists desire, they will be 
much resorted to during the summer months by health and 
pleasure seekers from all parts of the world. 

From Utsalady northward to Bellingham Bay our course 
lay among a group of exceedingly beautiful islands— Fidal- 
go, Guemes, Cypress, Lummi and others, belonging to 
Whatcom County. 

LACONNER, near the mouth of the Skagit, is ap- 
proached by a narrow, tortuous channel, winding close to 
small rock-bound islets, through " Hole in the Wall " and 
Swinomish Slough: 

The town comprises about 40 buildings, the precinct 
having a population of 600. The Laconner bottoms, so fa- 
mous for their fertility, lie adjoining on the north. They 
comprise about 20,000 acres, 14,000 of which are under 
cultivation, producing enormous crops of oats, the average 
yield being about 70 bushels per acre; 8400 bushels are 
said to have been harvested from 84 acres, and 125 bushels 
per acre from a 40-acre field owned by Mr. Dave Mc- 
Cormick. 

The Swinomish Indian Reservation, of over 6000 acres, 
lies upon Fidalgo Island, and embraces a large tract of rich 
tide lands. 

THE SKAGIT YALLEY is the most important lum- 
bering, farming nnd mining region in Western Washington. 
It extends to the base of the Cascade Range, varying in 
width from three to eight miles, and containing a consider- 
able area of rich agricultural lands. 

The river is navigable for 70 miles from the mouth, and 
bordered by extensive bodies of the choicest timber, upon 
which several of the largest saw-mills mainly depend. Coal, 
iron and gold mines have been discovered and are being de- 
veloped with promising results. 



THE SKAGIT VALLEY. 293 

Mosquitoes are reported very troublesome, especially on 
the delta tide lands. The overflow of the Skagit is some- 
times very destructive. 

Ten miles from Laconuer we rounded into Squaw's Bay, 
on the northeast side of Fidalgo Island. This is a remark- 
able healthy and prolific locality. On one side a white- 
haired, ruddy-faced veteran came out in a small boat for his 
mail, rowed in good style by ayoung daughter, one of 21 living- 
children; and on the other Mr. Monk showed us a field of 
wheat, which he said will yield 75 bushels per acre. He set- 
tled at Fidalgo 21 years ago, the first white man in that sec- 
tion, selected a choice tract of 400 acres, which he farms 
most thoroughly and successfully, underdraining his most 
productive lands. 

Four miles further, the steamer touched at Anacortes, a 
small village situated at the north end of Fidalgo Island, 
aspiring to become the metropolis of the northwest coast. 

Next at Samish, on the mainland, 10 miles from Anacor- 
tes, near the mouth of the Samish River, upon which there 
is considerable logging and cultivation of tide lands. 

Between Samish and Sehome there are inexhaustible 
quantities of what is known as Bellingham Bay stone. It is 
a handsome blue sandstone, easily cut, but quite durable. 
Several fine blocks in Portland, Seattle and Port Townsend 
have been built of it. 

BELLINGHAM BAY, SEHOME, WHATCOM AND THE NOOKSACK 

COUNTRY. 

About ten o'clock we reached Bellingham Bay, one of the 
most commodious and safe harbors on this coast. It is 14 
miles in length and three in width, with from eight to twen- 
ty fathoms of water, and good anchorage. 

Sehome and "Whatcom are both small villages of about 
20 buildings each, situated a mile and one-half apart, near 
the mouth of Whatcom Creek. 

They flourished during the operations of the coal mines 
there, but since their suspension, in 1877, have been almost 
deserted until quite recently. 

Whatcom is filling up again, and now that the tide of 



294 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 

immigration is setting into the Nooksack country, its future 
prosperity is assured, or of some point upon the bay acces- 
sible by deep-draught vessels. Whatcom Creek affords an ex- 
cellent water power, now being improved with a saw-mill. 
That portion of Whatcom County, lying between Mount 
Baker and the Gulf of Georgia, probably comprises, all 
things considered, the most desirable Government lands in 
Western Washington. The climate is very healthy, and the 
water good; winters comparatively mild, rainfall moderate, 
soil rich, and incoming people intelligent and industrious. 
I saw apple and pear trees full of fruit, and fine gardens of 
potatoes, onions, peas, beans, green corn, etc. 

This is a rare field for sportsmen. Deer are numerous, 
and Whatcom Lake famous for its trout fishing. 

Returning to Seattle, I proceeded via San Juan Island, to 
British Columbia. 



BRITISH COLUMBIA 



BRITISH COLUMBIA is a vast region, extending from 
the 49th parallel of latitude more than 700 miles north to 
the 60th, and from the divide of the Rocky Mountains on 
the east, 400 miles west to the Pacific, containing 341,515 
square miles, or 218,435,200 acres, a country nearly three 
times as large as England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales com- 
bined. It is traversed lengthwise by two great mountain 
ranges, the Rockies and the Cascades, about 250 miles 
apart, the former reaching an elevation of 9000 and the lat- 
ter of 6000 feet. The Columbia and the Fraser, the second 
and third largest rivers on the Pacific Coast, rise within the 
Province, and with the Skeena, Nass, Stickeen, and innu- 
merable other streams, drain its western slope. The inte- 
rior is well watered by numerous rivers and creeks, and 
thousands of lakes and springs. Parallel to the mainland, 
and at a distance of from three to twenty miles therefrom, 
extends Vancouver Island for over 250 miles. The shores 
of the mainland and of Vancouver, and the intervening- 
waters, embrace the most wonderful collection of inlets, 
sounds, harbors, straits, channels and islands to be found 
upon the planet. British Columbia, in common with the 
whole Pacific Coast, possesses two distinct climates. Along 
the west coast, even as far north as latitude 53°, the mean 
winter temperature is about 42°; the annual rainfall aver- 
aging from 45 inches at Victoria, to 75 inches at Fort Simp- 
son, 630 miles north. In the interior the climate is much 
drier, the entire precipitation ranging from 10 to 20 inches; 
the mean summer temperature being about 75°, and the win- 
ter 10° above. North of latitude 51 the winters are severe, 
but the snowfall moderate, except in the higher altitudes. 
This section is not subject to the terrible blizzards which 
prevail east of the Rocky Mountains, the coldest weather 
usually being perfectly calm and clear. Though mountains 
and forests cover a considerable portion of its surface, there 



296 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

are very extensive areas excellently adapted to stock raising 
and agriculture. The great natural resources of the Prov- 
ince are minerals, coal, fish, timber, grazing and furs. Al- 
though there are millions of acres as yet untouched by 
human foot, the discoveries of valuable mineral deposits 
already made are immense. Her gold fields are among the 
most extensive and richest in the world; coal underlies hun- 
dreds of thousands of acres; there are mountain masses 
and islands of iron, and rich mines of silver, copper and 
other precious metals. 

The principal cities, towns and settlements in British 
Columbia, are Victoria, Esquimalt, Saanich, Cowichan, Na- 
naimo, Wellington, Comox, Fort Eupert and Sooke, on 
Vancouver Island; New Westminster, Port Moody, Moody- 
ville, Hastings, Granville, Langley, Sumass, Chilliwhack, 
Hope, Emory, Yale, Lytton, Lillooet, Cache Creek, Cook's 
Ferry, Clinton, Lake La Hache, Soda Creek, Quesnelle, 
Stanley, Barkerville, Savona's Ferry, Kamloops, Tranquille, 
Grand Prairie, Salmon River, Spallumcheen, Okanagan, 
Mission, Cherry Creek, Similkameen, Port Essington, Riv- 
ers' Inlet, Metlakathla, Fort Simpson and Cassiar, on the 
Mainland, containing altogether about 50,000 inhabitants. 

VICTORIA, the chief city and capital of British Co- 
lumbia, occupies a magnificent situation on the south shore 
of Vancouver Island, about 60 miles from the Pacific, and 
750 north of San Francisco. Its immediate surroundings 
are charmingly picturesque, embracing a beautiful harbor 
and inlet, pine and oak covered shores and rolling hills, with 
green forests of fir and pine-clad mountains in the near 
background. The distant view is one of exceeding gran- 
deur, comprising the loftiest peaks of the Olympic and Cas- 
cade Mountains. A person unfamiliar with the marvelous 
progress of civilization in the new world, surveying its busy 
marts of trade, ships of commerce laden with exports for 
the most distant ports, numerous manufacturing industries, 
well graded streets and good public and private buildings, 
would scarcely believe that all these things are the creation 
of a little more than 20 years, and that only a generation has 



VICTORIA. 297 

passed since the Hudson Bay Company first planted the 
English flag on these shores. But this is only the beginning 
as compared with the brilliant future which awaits Victoria. 
The resources of the vast region to which she holds the 
commercial key, are only in the bud of their development. 
That she has reached her present status while laboring un- 
der the great disadvantages of extreme remoteness from the 
centers of population and demand for her products, excess- 
ively costly transportation, shows not only their enormous 
extent and richness, but what may reasonably be expected 
when all railway communication shall be established with 
the East and the country opened to immigration and cap- 
ital. 

Victoria is provided with all the concomitants of the 
progressive cities of our times — good religious and educa- 
tional advantages, three newspapers, the Colonist, Standard, 
and Evening Post, a public library, and the usual benevolent 
orders, an able and active Board of Trade, gas and water 
works, efficient police and fire departments, a beautiful pub- 
lic park, and a well ordered government. 

VICTORIA. AS A SUMMER RESORT FOR TOURISTS AND HEALTH SEEKERS. 

Nature has awarded to Victoria the most attractive and 
interesting situation and surroundings of any city on the 
north Pacific Coast. Possessing a most enjoyable, invig- 
orating and healthful climate, she lies central amidst the 
sublimest scenery in the new world. The waters of Puget 
Sound and of the Inside Passage to Alaska, between Van- 
couver and the Mainland, embrace more that is unique and 
wonderful in nature, than can be found on any equal area of 
the earth's surface. I can scarcely conceive of a grander 
panorama of mountains and inland waters, forests and 
islands, than that afforded from the summit of Beacon Hill, 
her favorite Park resort. Her drives are unsurpassed, both 
in respect to the excellence of the roads, and the beauty of 
the scenery through which they pass. The three miles from 
Victoria to the fine harbor of Esquimalt, with its pretty 
village, off-lying fleet of ships, Graving Dock, etc., is a de- 
lightful drive or walk; so is the one to the Gorge, a pic- 



298 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

turesque, romantic spot, situated about the same distance 
from the city. It may also be visited by a small boat through a 
charming inlet, extending from Victoria almost to Esqui- 
malt. To Cadboro Bay, returning by the Government 
House, Race Course and Beacon Hill, a distance of about 
eight miles, affords a splendid excursion. Excellent mac- 
adamized roads lead from three to twenty miles into the 
country, in all directions. Victoria is central in one of the 
best fields for hunting and fishing, of which I have any 
knowledge. Deer and other large game abound on Van- 
couver Island, and within a short distance of the city. All 
kinds of waterfowl are numerous, and the streams and lakes 
are full of trout. It is only a few hours' ride by steamer, 
amidst magnificent scenery, to the most important places in 
the Province, New Westminster, Port Moody and Nanaimo; 
and to the principal towns of Puget Sound — Port Town- 
send, Seattle, Tacoma and Olympia. Steamers also run 
among the beautiful islands of the Archipelago De Haro, 
and of the San Juan group, touching at their chief points of 
interest. Upon the completion of the Canadian Pacific and 
Northern Pacific Railways, Victoria will be thronged with 
tourists and health-seekers, from all parts of the East. 

EXCURSIONS FROM VICTORIA. 

Trip No. 1. — From Victoria to Yale, the head of navigation on 
the Fraser River, with Capt. John Irving, on the steamei 
R. P. Rithet. Through the Archipelago De Haro, Plumper 
Pass, Gulf of Georgia, and South Arm of Fraser River. 
Magnificent scenery, salmon fisheries and canneries, rich 
delta and bottom lands. The toivns of Ladners Landing, 
New Westminster, Mission, Maple Ridge, Langley, Matsqui, 
Sumas, Chilliiohack, Harrison River, Hope, Emory, and 
Yale— 350 miles. 

VICTORIA, the beautiful capital city of the Province, is 
the headquarters and starting-point of all the principal 
steamboat and other lines of transportation through it. Of 
these, the Pioneer line of steamers to the head of navigation 
on the Fraser River, is one of the most important. It com- 
prises three boats, the Wm. Irving, R. P. Rithet and Reli- 



VICTORIA. 299 

ance, owned by Capt. John Irving and others, which run in 
conjunction with the Hudson Bay steamers Princess Louise, 
Enterprise and Otter. 

I took passage on the R. P. Rithet, Capt. John Irving, 
one of the finest boats upon the waters of the northwest 
coast. She is a new, powerful stern-wheeler, 200 feet long, 
39 feet wide, 816 tons burthen, accommodating 250 passen- 
gers, and having a speed of 13 miles an hour. Her cabins 
are elegantly finished and furnished, state-rooms large, and 
table excellent. 

The usual time to Yale —175 miles from Victoria — is from 
18 to 22 hours on the upward, and 12 hours on the downward 
trip, the difference being occasioned by the strong currents 
encountered both in the straits and river, in some places 
from seven to eight miles an hour. 

No passage of equal distance in the world affords a suc- 
cession of more magnificent natural views. 

Sailing out of the fine land-locked harbor of Victoria 
into the Straits of Juan de Fuca, on a clear day, pre- 
sents a panorama of indescribable beauty and sublimity. 
The grandest mountains outline the horizon on every hand — 
rising 5000 feet from Vancouver, the snow-covered Olympian 
Peaks 8000 feet — and sweeping east and northward along the 
rugged Cascades, the eye is arrested by the white crowning 
peaks of Mount Baker, 10,800 feet above the sea. The in- 
tervening landscape is exceedingly picturesque and charming. 
Sailing northward, the immediate shores of Vancouver, 
faced with a sea-wall of rounded trappean rock, sparsely 
wooded with pine and oak, receding gradually, are inter- 
spersed with pleasant green slopes and park-like openings. 
The large, conspicuous mansion situated upon the command- 
ing eminence in the eastern suburbs of Victoria is the Gov- 
ernment House, now occupied by His Honor Lieutenant- 
Governor Cornwall. The Governor recently kindly showed 
me through the fine grounds, which afford a most mag- 
nificent view of the incomparably grand scenery of this 
region. Looking into Cadboro Bay — three miles from the 
city opposite the small, rocky islands of Discovery and Chat- 
ham, a fine little harbor of refuge — a number of well-im- 



300 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

proved farms h are visible. Driven in here by a storm in 
crossing from San Juan Island to Victoria, I was surprised 
to find vegetation more advanced than in Oregon and Wash- 
ington, which I had just left. Several varieties of flowers 
bloom here throughout the winter. 

Approaching the entrance to the Canal De Haro, San 
Juan Island, to the northeast, first engages the attention. It 
is the largest of the San Juan group, comprising Orcas, Lo- 
pez, Blakeley, Decatur, Waldron, Shaws, Stuart, Speiden, 
Henry and others, being 13 miles long, with an average width 
of about four miles. It acquired historical importance as 
disputed territory, having been jointly occupied by the 
English and American forces, from 1858 to 1873, when the 
boundary question was finally settled. The white-faced cliffs 
of the extensive limestone quarry of McCurdy's is a promi- 
nent land-mark on the Southern slope. Lying to the west- 
ward of the group, and comprising the Archipelago De Haro, 
are numerous islands, belonging to British Columbia. Of 
these, Salt Spring, Galiano, Saturna, Pender, Sidney, 
Moresby and Mayne are the most important. The main 
channel, usually taken by deep-draught vessels, runs between 
San Juan, Stuart and Waldron, on the east, and Sidney, 
Moresby, Pender and Saturna on the west; but our route, 
that of most river steamers, lay between Sidney, James, 
Moresby, Portland, Pender, Provost, Mayne and Galiano 
Islands, reaching the Gulf of Georgia through Active or 
Plumper Pass. These islands are uniformly rock-bound, 
with basalt, sandstone and conglomerate formations, inter- 
spersed with lignite, rugged and irregular iu outline, thickly 
wooded with fir and spruce, and rising from 500 to 1500 feet 
above the sea. Their climate is healthy and uniform, rain- 
fall not excessive, and great extremes of heat or cold are 
unknown. The forests abound with deer, otter, coon and 
mink, and the surrounding waters with salmon, halibut, cod 
and other excellent fish. There are no beasts of prey or poi- 
sonous reptiles. Approaching the pass, a steam sealing 
schooner and three large Chinook canoes, filled with 
Indians, were sailing northward. Their huts were occasionally 
seen upon the shores. A considerable settlement of whites 



ACROSS THE GULF OF GEORGIA. 301 

occupy a pleasant green slope on Vancouver Island, at Co- 
wichan. 

Then we seemed to be advancing against a mountain wall 
of solid rock, and just as we were wondering most where we 
could be going, two channels suddenly appear -the left lead- 
ing on to Nanaimo, the right to Plumper Pass — not exceed- 
ing two or three hundred yards wide in places, and about 
two miles long, to the Gulf of Georgia. 

Emerging from the pass, we headed for the delta of 
the Fraser River, visible in the distance. The Gulf 
of Georgia is from nine to twenty miles in width and 
120 miles in length. When opposite Point Roberts 
the boundary line between British Columbia and the 
United States, a wide pathway cut through the tim- 
ber, entirely across, is plainly seen from the steamer with 
the naked eye. Just before entering the south arm of the 
Fraser River we passed the steamer Beaver, which Captain 
Irving said is the oldest on the Pacific coast, having come 
around the Horn in 1835. She was still, doing good service 
for her owners, the British Columbia Towing Co. 

The Fraser River, the third largest stream flowing into 
the Pacific upon the continent of North America, rising in 
the Rocky Mountains, drains, with its tributaries, an area 
estimated at 125,000 square miles, reaching from the 118th 
to the 125th degree of longitude. The intervening country 
embraces the greatest diversity of physical features, cli- 
mates, soils, natural resources and adaptations, east of the 
Cascade Range, mountains, rolling foothills and elevated 
plateaus, covered with bunch grass, sage brush, plains, for- 
est and timber lands, with occasional prairie openings, are 
its prevailing characteristics. 

It is rich in gold and other valuable minerals, contains 
extensive stock ranges of unsurpassed excellence, and large 
areas of arable lands excellently adapted to the growth of 
cereals, roots and fruits generally. Irrigation is necessary 
over a considerable portion of this region. The summers 
are hot, the nights cool, and sometimes frosty in the valleys 
and in the elevated plateaus; the winters dry and not unfre- 
quently severe, though the snow-fall, except in the moun- 
tains, seldom exceeds two feet in depth. 



302 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

Crossing the Cascades, its western slopes and valleys, 
embrace the greatest variety of climates and range of pro- 
ductions, varying according to altitude and local surface con- 
figurations. 

Forests of Douglas pine, cedar, spruce and hemlock 
cover a considerable portion of this region, though there are 
extensive bodies of excellent grazing and agricultural land. 
But no general description can convey correct impressions 
concerning or do justice to this region. 

The climatic conditions existing in the same latitudes 
on the Atlantic coast afford no guide in judging of those 
found there. The warm Asiatic ocean currents sweeping 
along the western coast and through the Gulf of Georgia, 
modify the temperature in a marked degree. 

It is one of the healthiest portions of the globe. Even 
the river bottoms and deltas are free from all malarial 
fevers. 

THE RICH AND EXTENSIVE DELTAS OF THE PRASEE RIVER. 

The delta lands of the Fraser are more extensive than 
those of any other river flowing into the Pacific. Advancing 
up the South Arm, a broad, rapid, muddy stream, the tide 
lands stretch away for many miles on either hand, extending 
from Boundary Bay on the east, to Point Gray on the west, 
a distance of 13 miles, embracing over 100,000 acres suseep- 
tible of cultivation. Enriched by the silt and alluvial de- 
posits of ages, brought down from the plains and mountain 
slopes of the interior, they are famous for their inexhaustible 
fertility. They generally require dyking to the height of 
three or four feet, for protection against high tides, though 
escaping, almost altogether, any damaging effects from the 
spring floods, 

THE SALMON FISHERIES AND CANNERIES. 

Although salmon fishing and canning has been an impor- 
tant industry on the Pacific coast since 1866, and during the 
last 12 years has grown to immense proportions, it is only a 
few years since the establishment, by Ewen & Co., of the 
first cannery on the Fraser. Now there are 13 — the Phoenix, 
English & Co., British American Packing Co., British 



NEW WESTMINSTER. 303 

Union, Adair & Co., Delta, Fiudlay, Durham & Broclie, 
British Columbia Packing Co., Ewen & Co., Laidlaw & Co., 
Standard Co., Haigh & Son, and the Bichmond Packing Co., 
their aggregate annual product amounting to not less than 
230,000 cases. The fish of Northern waters are of superior 
quality, and their ranges for hatchiug and feeding so exten- 
sive and excellent that the salmon, especially if protected by 
the Government, will constitute one of the great permanent re- 
sources of this region. Before proceeding far up the Fraser, 
we meet the advance of the numerous fleet of salmon fishing- 
boats which throng the river for a distance of 15 miles from 
its mouth. They are from 22 to 24 feet in length, and from 
five to six feet wide, each furnished with a gill net, made of 
strong linen, from 150 to 200 fathoms long, and about 40 
half-inch meshes deep, and manned by two Indians. 

NEW WESTM1NSTEB, the principal city of the main- 
land, formerly the capital of the Crown Colony, occupies a 
very pleasant and commanding situation on the right bank 
of the Fraser, about 15 miles from the mouth and 75 miles 
from Victoria. The site was chosen by Col. Moody, in 1858, 
being then covered with a dense growth of enormous cedars, 
some of which were 12 feet in diameter. Hon. J. W. 
Armstrong, late Provincial Secretary, erected the first house 
— a store and dwelling — in March, 1859. This gentleman 
related to me how it came by its present name. Origi- 
nally called Queen or Queensborough, a dispute having 
arisen between Gov. Douglas and Col. Moody as to which 
should prevail, the matter was submitted for settlement to 
Her Majesty Queen Victoria, who decided against both, by 
substituting New Westminster. 

It lies in the heart of the great resources of the Province, 
surrounded by the most extensive and richest bodies of agri- 
cultural lands, with large tracts of the finest timber near at 
hand, and in the midst of fisheries so enormously productive 
that 13 canning establishments within a radius of 12 miles, 
will put up over 12,000,000 cans of salmon, alone, the present 
season. Vessels drawing 15 feet of water reach New West- 
minster in safety at all times, and find good anchorage and 



304 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

wharfage, and Port Moody, on Burrard's Inlet, the best and 
most commodious harbor along these shores, selected as the 
terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, is only six miles 
distant. 

The city, now containing a populatiou of about 3000, is 
in a very prosperous condition, but scarcely realizes the 
future which awaits it upon the establishment of railroad 
communication with the interior and the East, the influx of 
population, and the consequent development of the great 
resources of this region. Besides many well-built stores, 
residences, and hotels, it contains the Provincial Peniten- 
tiary and Asylum, a public hospital, and good church and 
school buildings. A fine post-office is in course of erection. 
A free reading-room and library is well sustained. There 
are two local newspapers— the British Columbian and Main- 
land Guardian — well conducted and supported. At the hos- 
pital, Dr. Adam Jackson, the courteous and efficient Super- 
intendent, after conducting me through the several commo- 
dious and sunny wards showed me, in the fine flower garden 
attached, a sweet pea vine over seven -and-a-half feet in height, 
and close by, vegetables of surprising growth. Rheumatism 
and paralysis are the most prevalent diseases among his 
patients. At the time of my visit, just after pay-day among 
the canneries, the city was full of Indians, representing all 
the various Mainland and Island tribes, living in canvas tents 
and huts, dressed in every conceivable mixture of barbarous 
and civilized costume, one of the most interesting collections 
of human creatures ever seen on the earth. 

These northern tribes are generally good workers, and 
earn, during the summer, considerable sums of money, 
which they spend freely upon whatever most pleases their 
fancy. Many of their purchases, which the traders said in- 
cluded almost everything, were exceedingly amusing, espec- 
ially in the line of dress goods. Sometimes a prosperous 
buck will jump from a barbarous into a civilized costume at 
a bound, and parade the streets in a black suit and white silk 
necktie, and everything, except habits, to correspond. One 
Indian was seen proudly leading his little daughter, whom 
he had gaily dressed in white, with a blue silk sash, a pretty 



LA NO LEY. 305 

white waist and a silk parasol in hand, but bare-footed and bare- 
legged. Though there were upwards of a thousand Indians 
in the city, I saw no disorderly conduct among them. I am 
indebted to Captain A. Peele, a prominent druggist and 
apothecary of New Westminster, and Meteorological Ob- 
server for the Dominion Government and Signal Officer for 
the United Stales, for the following valuable notes of the 
mean temperature and rainfall at that place for a period of 
six years : 

Mean Temp. Highest Temp. Lowest Temp. Rainfall. 

January 34.9 57 7 7.26 

February 37.9 57 16 6.61 

March 40.3 65 18 6.77 

April 48.1 74 20 2.85 

May 54.9 82 34 3.34 

June 58.3 87 38 2.33 

July 63.8 92 45 1.66 

August .61.9 84 44 2.10 

September 56.9 81 42 3.68 

October 48.9 75 26 5.83 

November 40.6 59 14 7.65 

December 36.2 54 8 7.87 

Between New Westminster and Yale, a distance of 109 
miles, the mail steamers not unfrequently make 35 landings, 
including stoppages at railway construction camps. Maple 
Eidge, 12 miles; Langley, 17; Biverside, 31; Matsqui, 93; 
Sumas, 41; Chilliwhack, 47; Hope, 85, and Emory, 85 miles 
above, being the most important places. 

LANGLEY, though only a small village, is the oldest 
settlement on the river, having been laid out for a town in 
1858. There is a considerable tract of rich, arable land a 
short distance back, of which the Hudson Bay Company 
own about a 1000 acres. Though the area, susceptible of 
cultivation along the Lower Fraser, is comparatively limited, 
it comprises, in the aggregate, over 150,000 acres, excluding 
the deltas. 

At Matsqui there is a prairie opening three or four miles 
square, and on the right bank opposite, north of the Mission, 
Burton's Prairie, containing over 3000 acres. Sumas Prairie 
is estimated to contain 25,000 acres of farming lands. Sur- 
rounding 



306 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

CHILLIWHACK, a village of about 25 houses, on the 
left bank, there is a large body of level, lightly timbered, 
alder, maple and pine wooded bottoms, enclosed by a grand 
amphitheatre of mountains. The soil is a deep clay, allu- 
vial, exceedingly productive. Mr. A. Pierce told me that 
the lessees of his farm, situated three miles back from the 
landing, will clear $2000 this season from 48 acres under 
cultivation. Though comprising the principal farming set- 
tlement on the river, these lands are only about half occu- 
pied. In common with most of those described, they are 
subject to occasional overflows, sometimes quite disastrous. 
The Provisional Government has undertaken to protect them 
by dyking, and will doubtless succeed. 

For 60 miles from the mouth of the Harrison Eiver the 
Fraser has little valley proper, the mountains rising ab- 
ruptly from two to five thousand feet above the sea, their 
rugged, furrowed sides sparsely covered with Douglas fir, 
and sharply denned peaks, with remnants of the winter 
snows. There are occasional slopes, benches and bottoms 
of small extent, occupied, though the general aspect of the 
country, outside the small settlements, is a wild, unbroken 
wilderness. 

This was the field of the great Fraser Eiver gold excite- 
mens of 24 years ago, when miners rushed in from all parts 
of the world, encountering untold hardships and dangers to 
share in its rich treasures. The best diggings were found 
upon the lower benches and bars of the river — the Ameri- 
can, Murderer's, Texas, Emory, Hill's, Sailor's, Boston, 
Kanaka, Fargo's, Chapman's, Wellington and Foster's being 
the richest. Scores of brave fellows lost their lives in 
attempting to reach them, in canoes and small boats, 
through the terrible rapids of the awful canons intervening. 

Between Cornish and American Bars, near the mouth of 
the Coquhalla Eiver, we reached the small village of 

HOPE, charmingly situated upon a high bench at the 
base of the mountains. A trail leads from thence 160 miles 
northeastward, into the rich Similkameen and Okanagan 
country. A silver mine, said to be verv rich, has been dis- 



SALMON BURNING EXTRAORDINARY. 307 

covered upon the side of the mountain within sight, upon 
the development of which great anticipations are based. I 
was informed by Mr. B. C. Oleson, Superintendent of the 
C. P. R. B. pow T der works, that there are good openings in 
the upper Skagit Valley, within 40 or 50 miles of Hope, for 
30 or 40 families. 

SALMON RUNNING AND CATCHING EXTRAORDINARY. 

I have read, with much allowance, accounts of the mul- 
titudes of salmon sometimes seen in the smaller tributaries 
of the Umpqua, Columbia and Fraser Rivers, but, after 
what I witnessed along the latter stream, am prepared to be- 
lieve any fish story within the limits of possibilities. Arriv- 
ing at Emory, five miles below Yale, two young men from San 
Francisco reported immense numbers of salmon at the 
mouth of Emory Creek, a small, rapid mountain stream 
flowing into the Fraser just above. Going there, I found it 
packed so full in places that I counted, while standing in 
one position upon the railroad bridge, over 400 different 
salmon. Mentioning the matter to a resident, he remarked: 
"Oh! that's nothing. If you want to see salmon, go to the 
next creek beyond." Reaching there, after a walk of about 
four miles, and taking a central position upon the bridge 
crossing it, I counted, without moving, over 800 salmon. 
This stream plunges down the mountain side with a fall of 
probably, 150 feet within a mile and a half, being from five 
to fifteen yards in width. For a distance of several rods 
up from its mouth, the salmon were crowding in from the 
muddy Fraser, now again rapidly rising, almost as thick as 
they coukl swim, and in their desperate efforts to ascend the 
successive falls above, presented a spectacle never before 
witnessed by the oldest native settler. Mr. John Wood- 
worth, who has lived here for 24 years, said he uever heard 
of the like. The salmon is a fish of extraordinary strength 
and agility, and is said to jump and swim up perpendicular 
falls from ten to twenty feet in height. I stood upon the 
bank an hour, and watched them in their desperate strug- 
gles to make the ascent of several of lesser size within sight. 
Of hundreds which made the attempt, only a few, compara- 



308 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

tively, succeeded, the rest fell back exhausted, splashing and 
whirling among the boulders. Many were covered with great 
bruises, some had lost their eyes, a few lay dead upon the 
shore, others were dying, and all seemed nearly worn out. 
Stepping close to a pool filled with them, I easily caught 
two in my hands, which offered but little resistance. Before 
leaving, a photographer, Mr. D. R. Judkins, of New West- 
minster, arrived and took two views of the remarkable 
scene. Mr. Daniel Ash worth, wife and family, were also 
present. Eeaching Yale, I told a hotel-keeper about it, 
estimating the salmon at thousands. "Thousands!" he ex- 
claimed, almost with indignation, "Why, there are millions 
of them now running up the Fraser within a few miles of 
town." Getting aboard Mr. Onderdonk's construction train 
I rode along the river, 15 miles, to the end of the track. 
Millions was probably not much of an exaggeration, for 
although the river was quite muddy, schools of salmon, 
numbering thousands each, could be seen from the platform 
of the cars, at short intervals, the entire distance. The 
Indians were catching and drying them in large quantities. 
Standing upon the edge of perpendicular projecting ledges, 
they capture the largest and finest specimens, either by 
means of hooks or scoop-nets, dress them upon the spot, 
and hang them up on long poles to dry in the wind and sun. 
When sufficiently cured, they are packed in caches made 
from cedar shakes, and suspended for safe keeping among 
the branches of trees, from 20 to 50 feet above the ground. 
It is the opinion of those familiar with the habits of the 
salmon, that not one in a thousand succeeds in depositing 
its spawn, and that if hatching places were provided upon 
these streams, and protected, that they could scarcely be 
exhausted, under proper restrictions as to catching them. 

YALE, the head of navigation on the Fraser River, a 
town of several hundred inhabitants and buildings, is situ- 
ated upon a narrow bench, surrounded by mountains of 
striking grandeur, rising precipitously thousands of feet 
among the clouds. In the early days of the gold discoveries 
in this region, Yale presented those scenes of wild dissipa- 



YALE. 309 

tion and reckless extravagance only witnessed in great and 
rich mining camps. An old miner, who was stopped from 
working his claim when paying from $16 to $20 per day, be- 
cause encroaching upon the city front, told me that he seldom 
cleaned up without finding gold pieces which had been 
dropped from the overflowing pockets of men intoxicated with 
liquor and excitement. It was nothing uncommon in those 
days to spend $50 in a single treat around at the bar. There 
is still paying placer mining on the river bench opposite, 
though the place derives its main support from the construc- 
tion of the C. P. R. R., traffic with the interior, and through 
travel. 

THE GRAND SCENERY OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 

The grandest scenery on the Western slope of the conti- 
nent is formed by the passage of its great rivers through the 
Cascade Mountains. When I looked with wonder and ad- 
miration upon the stupendous architecture of the mountains 
through which the Columbia has worn her way by the flow 
of unknown ages, I thought surely this scene can have no 
parallel ; but ascending the Fraser River, above Yale, moun- 
tains just as rugged, lofty, and precipitous, present their 
rocky sides; a stream as deep, swift, and turbulent, rushes 
headlong to the sea, between granite walls hundreds of feet in 
height, above which rise, by every form of rocky embattle- 
ment, tower, castle, and terraced slope, which the imagina- 
tion can conceive, the snow-covered summits of the Cascade 
Range. Great broad, deep paths have been worn down the 
mountain sides by the winter avalanches; crystal streams 
come bounding over their narrow rocky beds, sometimes 
leaping hundreds of feet, as if impatient to join the impetu- 
ous river below, enormous rocks stand out threateningly in 
the channel, over and around which, the waters boil and 
foam with an angry roar; and thus above, and below, and on 
every hand, for more than CO miles, extends this sublime ex- 
hibition of nature. 



310 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

Trip No. 2. — From Victoria to Barkerville, Cariboo, via- New 
Westminster, Yale, Boston Bar, Lytton, Cook's Ferry, 
Ashcroft, Cache Creek, Clinton, Soda Creek and Quesnelle; 
returning through the Kamloops, Okanagan, Spallumcheen 
and Nicola country, 1682 miles; then to Alaska, 1600 miles. 
Arriving at Yale, I proceeded at once to the office of the 
British Columbia Express to secure a seat in the stage leav- 
ing for Cariboo, 400 miles north, the following morning. 
As I entered, Mr. Dodd, the obliging agent, gravely remarked 
to a clerical gentleman who was anxious to express a small 
parcel, that there wasn't room on the stage for a tooth-pick. 
I did not much regret the detention, for it gave me an op- 
portunity to examine the most stupendous undertaking in 
railway building on the North American continent, the con- 
struction of the Canadian Pacific Railroad through the Cas- 
cade range of mountains. My readers are probably more 
or less familiar with the history of the progress of this great 
iron highway across the northern portion of the continent. 
The necessity for such a road through the several Provinces 
of the Dominion for their better security and more rapid 
development becoming apparent, in 1871 surveying parties 
were sent out to explore the comparatively unknown region 
through which, if possible, it should pass, and report upon 
the most favorable route. Over $3,500,000 have been ex- 
pended upon these preliminary surveys. The location of the 
road east of the Rocky Mountains being much the less dif- 
ficult, the work of construction was commenced on the east- 
ern section in 1874, and 264 miles completed and in opera- 
tion in 1880; but from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific 
Coast no less than 11 lines, aggregating upwards of 10,000 
miles, have been surveyed before determining the best ter- 
minal point and route thereto. Port Moody, at the head of 
Burrard Inlet, has finally been selected as the Mainland 
terminus, and the Governor-General, the Marquis of Lome, 
has recently stated in a public speech at Victoria, that the 
road will probably cross the Rocky Mountains by the Kick- 
ing Horse Pass. An agreement for the construction of the 
road having been entered into between the Dominion of 
Canada and a syndicate of capitalists, Mr. A. Onderdonk, 



THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILROAD. 311 

an experienced railroad builder, became the managing con- 
tractor for that portion of the western division extending from 
Fort Moody to Savonas Ferry, a distance of 212 miles. It 
presented greater difficulties than have ever been overcome 
in railway building. For nearly 60 miles, from Yale to Lyt- 
ton, the river has cut through the lofty Cascade Range, 
thousands of feet below the summits. Mountain spurs of 
granite rock, with perpendicular faces hundreds of feet in 
height, project at short intervals along the entire passage. 
Between them are deep lateral gorges, canons and plunging 
cataracts. On this 60 miles of tunnels, rock work and 
bridges, the greater portion of Mr. Onderdonk's construc- 
tion army of 7000 men have been engaged since 1880. 
The loud roar of enormous discharges of giant powder 
has almost constantly reverberated among the moun- 
tains. Fifteen tunnels have been bored, one 1600 feet 
in length, and millions of tons of rock blasted and 
rolled with the noise of an avalanche into the rushing, boil- 
ing Fraser; workmen have been suspended hy ropes hun- 
dreds of feet down the perpendicular sides of the mountains 
to blast a foothold; supplies have been packed in upon the 
backs of mules and horses, over trails where the Indians 
were accustomed to use ladders, and building materials 
landed upon the opposite bank of the river at an enormous 
expense, and crossed in Indian canoes. It is estimated that 
portions of this work have cost $300,000 to the mile. 

Following the line of this great road through the moun- 
tains to Cook's Ferry, about 75 miles from Yale, I proceeded 
from thence over 300 miles north, to the gold fields of Cari- 
boo, returning through the Kamloop, Okauagau, Spallum- 
cheen and Nicola country. Having finished my travels in 
the interior, I then examined the West Coast for about 800 
miles northward into Alaska, visiting most of the Indian 
tribes upon the mainland and on the islands of the Gulf of 
Gorgia. For the tourist and sportsman, it is a region of 
uuparalleled attractions, and there are many localities in the 
interior of the Province w r hich can be highly recommended 
for those health-seekers who require a diiy, sunny, equable 
and stimulating climate. 



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